Ray Heath Jr

Get over it all of you... Not Ford, Not Ford Affiliated...Most of the time the knowledge on here is FAR more useful than anything the dealer or even the Ford help line can provide. I routinely teach my dealer service department things they did not even know about the cars they service. We are here to help. Want a Nav update to Sync, go pay the dealer. Don't want to pay then use Carplay or Android Auto, or wait for Waze to be supported. Seems pretty simple to me. Moving on...

What Quila said. With ZERO help from any of those that I asked, I did some testing today, tried to do it via some modded install files, but ultimately went 3.0 unofficial, to 2.2 to 3.0 Official. Can’t use 2.3 because it does version checking and won’t allow it to back rev.

Same Motor, different tune. ST will have the same Motor also, just the 8 Speed Trans. It will have the 335 Tune, the GCC has now on the Edge.

Anybody do the prerelease and can't get the official to install even though it is newer. I have 17276, and the official is 18025. I have tried both my Edge and Expy, same results. Goes through the motions, says it is going to reboot and finish, and the version never changes. Need to know how I should modify the install to force it to install. Thanks.

It is more than 2-3 seconds. My experience is 6+ seconds. Just hold them until it turns black then release.

Thanks Jason or the clarity...

Yeah, connect to Wifi and try updating via the Unit. If not, go to Owner.ford.com and download the 2.2 update. It should be available to all Edges now.

Look back in this thread, and look for images and attack it from the side.

10-4, Keep us in the loop. I know my 2017 Version of the Hub in my Edge and Expedition are both providing over 1.5A to my iPhone 7 when it is below 50%. If yours is not, I would take it up with the dealership.

Just for clarity, this is with the lowering springs?

Just the impression from the reply. It is hard to grasp tone from the written word, but that was my impression. Glad I was wrong on that. Moving on to the whole problem at hand. Again, all of my data has been retrieved using a Meter, and not the display on the phone, but that is all on 2017 Model hubs, which the chipset did change in to meet the Apple CarPlay certification requirements. I would not think that Ford would have changed the Voltage output, but they might have. Seriously, the only way to solve this is for you to use a USB Power meter. For $15 you could have it tomorrow... Since you seem to be a Tech minded person, it will come in useful again. When you get the Meter, check with your phone, and another phone. Omar's explanation of "Smart" might also be a good way of explaining the difference.

I love it when people come to a forum, ask for help, then get grumpy when we give them an answer they don't like, especially when their understanding of the Technology is over simplified, and they are using the charging icon on their phone as the gauge for the how much power is coming to their phone. So, I have actually tested the ports with an actual USB Voltage meter, and my phone(iPhone 7) typically draws around 1.5-1.6 Amps on my drive home from work(Really the only time I have tested). Now my phone is typically between 40-75% depending on how many calls I have received that day on it. How low your battery is will affect the draw that the phone will put on the charging Source. The closer to full your phone gets the Amp draw should decrease. I can draw right at 2.0 Amps if I hook 2 sources to the Meter at the same time off a single USB port on the Hub. If I put a second device on the other port, the port with my meter will go down, so the power is shared by both ports. So a few things. Both of my current Fords have 2017 Model USB hubs. I never tested the 2016 Model hub in my Edge before I swapped it for the CarPlay capable hub. There might be a difference in the capability. Only way to be sure would be to put a Meter on it. Order this, and test for yourself: https://www.amazon.com/Eversame-Multimeter-Voltmeter-Capacitance-Charging/dp/B01D9Y6Z1G/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1497272671&sr=8-18&keywords=USB+power+meter

Remind me again, you have Nav or No Nav?

What wheels do you have and how is the ride in general around town situations?

Sorry, didn't mean to incite a riot...

Confirm via Wifi. Just act like you are checking for an update, that does the same thing as the file.

There are plenty of us that know...just have to wait for us to actually get on here and read the question. Also, the info is out via fairly quick Google searches. Hell the question has now been answered here 2 times in the past 24 hours.

Just for clarity it is a PTU, Not PTO. A PTO is something used to divert engine power to auxiliary devices, like pump, generators, buckets, on larger vehicles. F250's and above are typically capable of this, not sure if the newest 250's are or you have to go to a 450 to get the function.

Those are the files for the NAV version. You do have Navigation correct? Those files have to be in the SyncMyRide folder on the flash drive, with 2 others files. They are all part of the Ford zip file. Regardless of what Ford says, we have been doing this install, and have had better luck with smaller slower Flash drives. I use 2 Fat32 16GB Formatted USB 2.0 PNY drives. I have also used my 4GB Transcend FAT32 USB 2.0 drive with good success.

Not sure why they say that. We have proven it to work on MUCH smaller drives. Our actual real world experience has been USB 2.0, and Smaller works better.

What was your cost out the door? Hardware and Labor breakdown if possible.

Some things we learned early in this thread, that have been partially forgot now that the official update is out. Sync3 seems to do better with the update when you use a USB 2.0 drive vs a USB 3.0 Drive. Also, it does not seem to prefer the large drives. The smallest drive that will still fit the files, the better. Also, The Non-Navs take longer. They run the update in pieces. Since the Non-Navs have less space to play with on the unit, they cannot load the whole install at once, so it does it in steps. Make sure your Flash drive is freshly formatted before you copy the files to it.

Sirius Updates, are channel description and number updates...they are not feature or software. They actually happen regularly. Also Travel Link can be updated in the same manor. Either way, you get them...no matter what. They are Not done over Wifi. PM if you want the most recent file from Ford, the "production/release" version of 2.2, and I can send you a file link. I have not heard any person get it over Wifi. In the descriptions on the Owner site, it does not mention WiFi directly to the car as an option to receive this update, it only mentions the update via download to USB.

OK, That makes a little more sense. Agree, something is not right. Would love to get an inline meter on his phone and see the real numbers, not what the phone is telling.

That is a RIDICULOUS discharge rate for the screen not being on. Again, I run 3 relatively power hungry apps almost everyday coming home from work on my iPhone 7, and I will gain 20%+ on my battery in my 30 minutes drive plugged in to the cars hub. Sadly, which TRULY annoys me about iOS, I cannot see discharge. But I use the USB inline power meter, and my phone typically charges at about a 1.6A draw. Sometime higher, but only when the phones battery is really low, say 20% or below. At 1.6A I am running 3 heavy Power apps(Maps, Pandora, and Dash Command), all with the screen lit(I use a ProClip mount). What is running on ya'lls phones to cause that discharge rate?