Van G

From what I can find online those are the 4 Power Point fuses - F17 being for the one I'm looking at. Just checked the outlet - clear and looks fine.

Cigarette Lighter - Power Point below the radio/ac cluster - is dead. I checked fuses under the hood and all the power point's look fine: F17, F64, F65, F66 I even switched out F65 and F17 but no luck. What should I check next?

Seems like there are a good number of videos and reviews on the Moog Rear Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly. Will see if I can find Timken or SKF distributor in Toronto.

Need to replace my right rear wheel bearing and wanted to confirm that the Moog parts are still a good choice? MOOG 512335 - Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly 2010 Ford Edge AWD Ltd Are the MOOG and good choice? Should I be replacing both sides? Found this youtube link which to do the work which pretty good:

Anyone solved this problem other than new cap or reset PCM KAM fuse? Mine used to simply go on once in a while but now it is constant. I haven't replaced the gas cap as the fix had somewhat mixed reviews. Read this over on: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1162946-fuel-cap-warning-light.html Not sure if it applies? Have also read somewhere about a vacuum filter that could be clogged? --------- Condensed version of how it works: The EVAP system is supposed to prevent fuel vapors from escaping into the atmosphere. The fuel tank is vented through a carbon canistervia the canister vent solenoid which is controlled by the PCM's programming. During normal driving, the vent is open allowing air into (or out of) the fuel tank through the canister. Since the vapor system is supposed to be closed for the fuel vapors, it must be tested periodically. The PCM does this by closing the vent solenoid, opening the purge valve to apply manifold vacuum to the system, them measuring the air pressure (vaccuum) inside the tank using the fuel tank pressure sensor located in the top of the fuel tank. A properly sealed system will bleed up vacuum within a certain amount of time. The system the shuts the purge solenoid and measures bleed-down time to verify system is sealed. Leaks can be identified by the rate of bleed down and classified as large or small. After fueling, as detected by the fuel level sender in the tank, the system runs a "mini-check to verify it can draw a vacuum on the tank. If the system cannot draw a vacuum, it concludes that the fuel cap is probably not sealed and lights the fuel cap warning light. Now, to your specific instance: 1) Next time, don't futz with the battery. Just pull the PCM KAM fuse if you want to reset the PCM's memory. That way, you don't have to reprogram the radio! 2) Resetting the computer as you did makes it so the fuel cap "mini-check" wasn't run since it only runs after you fill up the tank. You just turned off the light, but the underlying problem may (and very likely still does) exist. You'll find out the next time you refuel. Don't be too surprised if you happen to get a MIL with an evaporative emissions leak DTC in the meantime. If it does, you're going to need advice or assistance from someone who knows what they're doing or talking about... --------------

My hood is rusting in a similar fashion. The corrosion started on the inside of the seam. Dealer acknowledged that it was a poor prep/prime/paint and submitted to Ford for hood replacement because its something they couldn't access to correct. Ford denied the repair claim and appeal. I'm in the process of putting together my case for consideration by courts and SM.

"If you had to do research to find out the problems on your car, then they're not really problems." - not sure I follow "If you expect your dealer to fix problems you don't tell them about, you will be dissapointed." Here's my line of thinking by example: I've been to the dealer a number of times for standard service before I started researching a few things on my vehicle. At least 3 of those service involved rotating the tires and all of them would have involved checking tire pressure. My chrome clad rims show the exact issue outlined in the TSB. Would it not have been good customer service for the dealer to address the issue and let me know that it had been done or could be done at a later time? My only assumption is that they knew of the TSB which I'm assuming is a safe assumption.

Your thoughts were correct - took off the bumper cover last night to replace sensor and the wire harness had been scored in two spots. Cleaned up the wires, tapped tight and all is well. Now I've got 4 sensors!

Great resource. Thank you for the details. Will contact Benny.

Or do you mean purchasing the entire wheel bearing hub assembly? SKF BR930676K

So removal of the wheel bearing hub (1215) from the knuckle should be fairly simple? Any info on the job appreciated. Only tool that I don't have from my view is socket for HN2 nut.

Just an update: I've gone through the dealer channel and Ford Canada has denied the corrosion warranty twice (original and appeal). The body shop manager pointed out that both rust points started on the inside of the seam. The tail gate could be serviced to resolve. The hood was quoted to be replaced since he couldn't access the interior portion of the rust. I've got a long laundry list of issues with this vehicle now: wheel bearing, chrome rim edge corrosion, check park aid, gas cap warning I'll be moving forward with legal on the corrosion issue and will document here and fb.

Just wondering if my dealer should have at least informed, if not done the work for TSB's during my regular service visits. I have a '10 Edge Ltd with the 'corroding' chrome rim edges and wheel bearings are going on them. I'm doing my due diligence on how to get Ford Canada to honour their corrosion warranty (aka: court) and have come across a couple things that I'm assuming a good dealer should know/identify/address during regular service, at least that has been the case with our VW and BMW???

We're getting intermittent 'Check Parking Aid' on dash accompanied by the rear parking sensor not working. It happens most times when the car is started, but sometimes while driving (super annoying). This all started when a friend who is works at Ford sourced a new rear bumper cover for us so I assume one or more of the 4 sensors are faulty (note the issue is intermittent). Assuming it is the sensors, how do I determine which one(s) to replace and how do I do it? Somewhat of a distance between the Ford friend but he gave me 5 replacement sensors.

Need to replace the front right wheel bearing on '10 Edge LTD AWD. If I decide to tackle this myself, any suggestions on the following: - should I use OEM or after market bearing? - how do I press the new bearing in? Have done some searches on youtube but most are replacing the whole housing for various Ford models, not just the bearing.