Van G

From what I can find online those are the 4 Power Point fuses - F17 being for the one I'm looking at.

Just checked the outlet - clear and looks fine.

Cigarette Lighter - Power Point below the radio/ac cluster - is dead.

I checked fuses under the hood and all the power point's look fine: F17, F64, F65, F66

I even switched out F65 and F17 but no luck.

What should I check next?

Seems like there are a good number of videos and reviews on the Moog Rear Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly.

Will see if I can find Timken or SKF distributor in Toronto.

Need to replace my right rear wheel bearing and wanted to confirm that the Moog parts are still a good choice?

MOOG 512335 - Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly

2010 Ford Edge AWD Ltd

Are the MOOG and good choice?

Should I be replacing both sides?

Found this youtube link which to do the work which pretty good: 

Anyone solved this problem other than new cap or reset PCM KAM fuse? Mine used to simply go on once in a while but now it is constant. I haven't replaced the gas cap as the fix had somewhat mixed reviews.

Read this over on: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1162946-fuel-cap-warning-light.html

Not sure if it applies? Have also read somewhere about a vacuum filter that could be clogged?

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Condensed version of how it works:

The EVAP system is supposed to prevent fuel vapors from escaping into the atmosphere. The fuel tank is vented through a carbon canistervia the canister vent solenoid which is controlled by the PCM's programming. During normal driving, the vent is open allowing air into (or out of) the fuel tank through the canister.

Since the vapor system is supposed to be closed for the fuel vapors, it must be tested periodically. The PCM does this by closing the vent solenoid, opening the purge valve to apply manifold vacuum to the system, them measuring the air pressure (vaccuum) inside the tank using the fuel tank pressure sensor located in the top of the fuel tank. A properly sealed system will bleed up vacuum within a certain amount of time. The system the shuts the purge solenoid and measures bleed-down time to verify system is sealed. Leaks can be identified by the rate of bleed down and classified as large or small.

After fueling, as detected by the fuel level sender in the tank, the system runs a "mini-check to verify it can draw a vacuum on the tank. If the system cannot draw a vacuum, it concludes that the fuel cap is probably not sealed and lights the fuel cap warning light.

Now, to your specific instance:

1) Next time, don't futz with the battery. Just pull the PCM KAM fuse if you want to reset the PCM's memory. That way, you don't have to reprogram the radio!

2) Resetting the computer as you did makes it so the fuel cap "mini-check" wasn't run since it only runs after you fill up the tank. You just turned off the light, but the underlying problem may (and very likely still does) exist. You'll find out the next time you refuel. Don't be too surprised if you happen to get a MIL with an evaporative emissions leak DTC in the meantime. If it does, you're going to need advice or assistance from someone who knows what they're doing or talking about...

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I have an 08 Edge Limited purchased new and noticed rust on the rolled edge of the passenger rear door a few weeks ago. I've got one payment left on the 72 month financing. This week I washed it and noticed a small bump on the outside of the front edge of the hood. I popped the hood and noticed the underside of the front edge has a lot of rust showing. Very disppointing. I also have an 08 Infiniti G35x and there is nothing like this. Also have an 04 Volvo S60 with 170K miles that has a few dents but no rust. I really thought the US manufacturers had kicked this problem, but it seems some old bean counter habits are still there.

 

I have not talked to my dealer yet but it really makes me think twice about another Ford. Too bad because it's been an excellent vehicle othewise.

My hood is rusting in a similar fashion. The corrosion started on the inside of the seam. Dealer acknowledged that it was a poor prep/prime/paint and submitted to Ford for hood replacement because its something they couldn't access to correct.

Ford denied the repair claim and appeal.

I'm in the process of putting together my case for consideration by courts and SM.

"If you had to do research to find out the problems on your car, then they're not really problems."

- not sure I follow

"If you expect your dealer to fix problems you don't tell them about, you will be dissapointed."

Here's my line of thinking by example: I've been to the dealer a number of times for standard service before I started researching a few things on my vehicle. At least 3 of those service involved rotating the tires and all of them would have involved checking tire pressure.

My chrome clad rims show the exact issue outlined in the TSB. Would it not have been good customer service for the dealer to address the issue and let me know that it had been done or could be done at a later time?

My only assumption is that they knew of the TSB which I'm assuming is a safe assumption.

Hi Van,

 

the hub is as follows:

HUB ASY - WHEEL

Make: Ford | Part#: 7T4Z1104A

List Price: $99.93

Your Price: $67.16

 

Sorry we do not sell batteries, chemicals or liquids online. We also do not have access to service data such as the type of lube for the roof, This info is not shown in our parts catalogs.

 

Please let me know if you have any other questions,

-Benny

 

Thanks Benny. Can you confirm the part you quoted includes the bearing? Already on front hub? I searched your site and the part number appears to be only for the "part 1 - front hub" of the front suspension?

Your thoughts were correct - took off the bumper cover last night to replace sensor and the wire harness had been scored in two spots. Cleaned up the wires, tapped tight and all is well.

Now I've got 4 sensors!

Great resource. Thank you for the details. Will contact Benny.

Hi Benny, need to replace front right wheel bearing and battery on 2010 Ford Edge Ltd AWD.

Also, what lubricant is suggested for vista roof lubrication?

Or do you mean purchasing the entire wheel bearing hub assembly? SKF BR930676K

So removal of the wheel bearing hub (1215) from the knuckle should be fairly simple?

Any info on the job appreciated. Only tool that I don't have from my view is socket for HN2 nut.

Just an update: I've gone through the dealer channel and Ford Canada has denied the corrosion warranty twice (original and appeal).

The body shop manager pointed out that both rust points started on the inside of the seam. The tail gate could be serviced to resolve. The hood was quoted to be replaced since he couldn't access the interior portion of the rust.

I've got a long laundry list of issues with this vehicle now: wheel bearing, chrome rim edge corrosion, check park aid, gas cap warning

I'll be moving forward with legal on the corrosion issue and will document here and fb.

Just wondering if my dealer should have at least informed, if not done the work for TSB's during my regular service visits.

I have a '10 Edge Ltd with the 'corroding' chrome rim edges and wheel bearings are going on them.

I'm doing my due diligence on how to get Ford Canada to honour their corrosion warranty (aka: court) and have come across a couple things that I'm assuming a good dealer should know/identify/address during regular service, at least that has been the case with our VW and BMW???

We're getting intermittent 'Check Parking Aid' on dash accompanied by the rear parking sensor not working. It happens most times when the car is started, but sometimes while driving (super annoying).

This all started when a friend who is works at Ford sourced a new rear bumper cover for us so I assume one or more of the 4 sensors are faulty (note the issue is intermittent).

Assuming it is the sensors, how do I determine which one(s) to replace and how do I do it?

Somewhat of a distance between the Ford friend but he gave me 5 replacement sensors.

Need to replace the front right wheel bearing on '10 Edge LTD AWD.

If I decide to tackle this myself, any suggestions on the following:

- should I use OEM or after market bearing?

- how do I press the new bearing in?

Have done some searches on youtube but most are replacing the whole housing for various Ford models, not just the bearing.

Received your PM, Tricia. Will give Canada CS a call. Thank you.

Dealer body shop manager confirmed what has been written here and added that it is a 'dumb' policy.

How can you produce a vehicle at this point in time and not stand behind it? How about producing something that doesn't rust in the first 8-10 years like most of the competition?

Was hoping for better news when researching this. Found blistering on our 2010 Edge hood.

Will contact dealer but if what I'm reading here is right, I'll be disappointed again.

Edge layout is great but poorly executed. Shouldn't be worrying about mechanics or rust on a 4 yr old vehicle in 2014! Already had to service/replace the panaroof motor, battery, and if my ears hear things right I'm looking at wheel bearings as well.

Really like the look of the mustang convertible but with manufacturer not standing behind product, why would I bother.

Okay, found MOTORCRAFT Part # MM1031. Is there an after market option that is either same quality but cheaper or better quality?

Web is covered with people complaining about this roof.

I cleaned the rails today. They were dirty and packed with grease. Nice and tidy now but the roof still closes at an incredibly slow rate and almost stalls as it approaches the last 6".

Assuming I need to replace the motor....

Anyone know where I can source the roof motor from? Privacy shade works normally.

Going to tackle this job on the weekend. Can I get suggestions on the proper grease to use?

Vid referenced a wide temp range grease.

Dropped by the body shop and he quoted $500 to repair and paint.

He thought getting a used bumper would be somewhat impossible and if you found one it would be $500-600 and then $130 to install it + paint it if needed.

Can they reliably fuse the plastic back together?

Wifey got a little ding on the bumper this past winter. I soon discovered that the rear park sensor disables when the bumper is covered with ice and snow!

Need to get this cleaned up.

Am I looking at sourcing a whole bumper given the crack or can it be properly repaired?

Thanks in advance.

Driver door on our '10 Edge Ltd is pretty stiff and creaks most times when opening. Assuming I just need to clean and apply new grease but have a few questions:

What points should I be working on? The two mount brackets and the arm?

What grease should I use?

Should I clean first with spray degrease?

Thanks in advance.