TheFloppyWeasel

I realized I had a bad brake light bulb, so when I went to get replacements, I decided to get LEDs instead of regular bulbs, and replaced both the left and right side top bulbs. 
 

the issue I found I have is if I’m holding down the brake pedal and let off, the brake lights are delayed in turning off, rather than immediately turning off when I release the brakes.

 

If I just tap the brakes really quick, the brake lights more or less match and then off immediately. The issue only happens when I’m engaging the brakes longer than just a tap. 
 

any ideas? Was hoping it was just plug and play. 

18 minutes ago, jmr061 said:

My experience with this is low battery voltage.  Battery may be starting to get bad.  The remote start is more sensitive to battery voltage than starting it with start button.

I was somewhat thinking the same thing. I would hope the battery wouldn’t already be going bad. I just had it replaced over the summer. 

For some reason lately, the remote start will turn the engine over maybe once but not actually start it. When I get in and press the start button it starts fine.

 

Any ideas? I’m not sure why it never gives me an issue when I press the button, but occasionally acts up when using remote start. 

Ah, at least I feel a little less dumb now haha. I need to find another edge and open it up to trace the wires to figure out where they go.

Yeah, I have no idea what to do with that area. I put my wallet there one day and spent 30 minutes trying to find it later because I forgot I put it there.

 

The wiring color does match that of the wires going to the cup holders. I just have to figure out where it hooks in.

I traced the wires from the back cup holder to the front one, then to the map pocket led. But I stopped once I got to the cut wires and started trying to figure out where they were supposed to go. I really shouldve traced them back from where they were cut. I can do that today probably.

 

So, I noticed from the diagram above that theres supposed to be an led for the map pocket. I assume thats the little open area in the center console towards the bottom/back kind of near the passengers side cigarette outlet? I looked back there to verify there was an led there and guess what, that one also doesnt work.

 

Im assuming theyre related. The light inside of the center console/storage area works.

So, were thinking those cut wires are part of the ambient lighting in the cup holders? I didnt see anywhere they might have been cut from though when I was looking. Both led modules had wires going to them.

So I got one problem solved. The light that clips into the plastic for the gear lighting had broken off from the previous owner. I managed to secure it back in place, but I cant figure out the cup holder lighting issue. Everything seemed to be plugged in as it should. Didnt notice any broken wires in that part of the harness. Not sure what the next step is other than testing that the wires have power.

 

I did notice some cut wires towards the bottom of the console. Any idea what these go to?

Haha no worries. Ill have to get in there and check it out. Hopefully thats the case. Can the lights themselves be replaced if needed?

lol, yeah its turned on and it works as it should everywhere else

The ambient lighting in the cup holders and the gear letters/numbers beside the shifter apparently are supposed to illuminate, but mine dont.

So it seems I have some lights not working then. How hard is it to replace the lights or do you have to replace more than just the lights?

Maybe this question has been asked before, but are the gear indicator letters and numbers by the shifter supposed to be lit up? What about rings in the cup holders? If so mine dont work. How easy is it to fix if so?

 

2011 edge sport

More common when turning but still possible. I wouldn't worry if the brakes are working ok now until it happens again.

Haha thats what Im worried about...if it happens again. Im about to head home, so well see

 

So I think I may be in luck. Going back to akirbys first response, it could have been a slick spot on the road. As I was driving past the location where the brakes went wonky, I noticed a rather large spot of what looked to be some sort of oil, right where I would have been merging. Im thinking this is what caused the abs to kick in.

If the traction light came on briefly, then it might have been the stability control system engaging, which uses the ABS to modulates individual wheel brakes to prevent or reduce a skid. It would also make sense since you were turning.

The only thing here though is that it happened as I was merging into the turn lane and coming to a stop at lower mph. I hadnt started the left turn yet. Maybe that doesnt matter?

 

Would that be a common thing though? Its never done that before and Ive chucked it into a hard turn before while braking hard. Im trying to decide if I need to send it to the dealer or at least have a couple of specific things I can check on myself.

Sounds like the ABS engaged. Is it possible you hit a slick patch on the road? If not it may be a flaky wheel speed sensor.

Highly doubtful being dry. Would a wheel speed sensor cause the brakes to go all wet sponge on me? I guess if it engages the ABS it wont allow the brakes to fully engage thus increasing stopping distance and brake mushiness.

As I pressed the brakes to turn into a turning lane, the car made an odd noise (I thought maybe I ran over something but didnt see anything in my mirror) and the brakes went mushy briefly, then went back to normal. It still slowed down, but the pedal was all the way down. I did notice the traction control light blink briefly but didnt stay on (maybe because the pedal was fully engaged and the car was still moving?).

 

Reluctantly I had to drive the 1/4 mi from the gym back to my work, so after giving it some parking lot tests and looking for brake fluid under the vehicle, I headed back down the road and the brakes felt normal.

 

I dont know if a vacuum line for the brakes went, if there was air in the system, if the booster went or what, but I cant stand potential issues thats I cant recreate to figure out. Im hoping air in the system surfaced since the dealer did change the brakes before I bought it in July.

 

Any other ideas?

I have a yellow top optima in the mustang. Probably could have opted for the red top and saved $60 or so lol. I forgot to ask what type of battery they were quoting.

 

I guess it could be that. I'll have to ask when I talk to the service manager again. Hopefully I get it back tomorrow. I only got to enjoy it for a week lol

Culprit was the alternator which I was told in turn caused damage to the battery.

 

Someone may need to explain that one to me. I'm not new to working on and modding performance cars, but that's new to me.

 

The battery isn't covered, but the alternator is. With a $100 deductible it looks like I'm paying around $260 out of pocket out of the close to $900 bill. Hoping my friend at ford can get me a better price on the battery. $130 is pricey for a non optima battery in my opinion.

It does, along with basically everything else on the vehicle minus normal wear and tear things like batteries, wiper blades, tires, brake pads etc.

 

https://allstatecarcare.com

 

Ford can't see it until Tuesday morning, so I have to figure out how to get a rental out of it since technically I can't get a rental until it's diagnosed I believe (my plan offers rentals in the event I'm without a car)

Well, it completely went tonight. First it shut off the MFT to save power, the the dash lights, then the cluster itself, then I think the AWD system (I remember seeing something about AWD during the chaos), then finally it started shuttering and losing power. I had to pull it into a parking lot and have it towed to a dealer.

 

I've had it just one week, and it's already going to the dealer with 48k mi. Good thing I bought this 3 year bumper to bumper warranty from Allstate. I just hope everything is covered.

 

I had just tinted the front windows and plasti dipped the front chrome trim this morning too

A )hypothetically, how would one hack the APIM?

B )if I got a nav APIM I assume I still have to have it programmed to my vehicle?

I believe the SD card is just half of the equation though. I believe something in the MFT unit has to be reprogrammed or updated to have NAV along with the SD card.

My sport didn't come with nav, and I want factory nav. I've been told on here that it would be like $800 or something, but my question is, what is actually needed to do this? I have a friend that works at ford who is going to be programming a remote for me since mine came with one. Is it something he can hook up to his vcm and ids software (I have no clue what that software does other than give him the ability to program remotes) and add? Or is there a physical part that's different?

So far, I've clicked "ok" on the wheel to remove the message, but the battery icon still stays lit up on the display. As soon as the rpms increase, the battery icon goes away, and where it normally would show any notifications for system issues, it said no notifications.