bwguardian

I've been taking a closer look into this given we are now into summer time heat.  So I was able to vacuum the system down and hold about -26 on the low side and it holds long enough to tell me there's not a leak.  I went ahead and put a can of 134a in and the compressor clutch engages right after I start the process.  The system takes almost 2 cans so I wanted to see what would happen before topping it off.  I drove it around and let it idle in the driveway for an hour with no issues so I added another small can that has refrigerant, o-ring conditioners, and some dye.  Drove around again and the vent temperature was 48*.  I had to go pick up our youngest daughter from school so made the trip and the car sat in the parking lot for an hour.  I drive the car home and the vent temperature is only 70*.  I put the gauges on it and decide to put another can in.  It's now blowing 45* idling in the driveway.  It needed gas so I take it around a long block drive and it's blowing 36* so I decided to go put some gas in it which is a couple miles away.  I get to the station and there's a line so I wait.  I see a free pump so I pull up put the car in park and leave it idling.  When I do I noticed a mist cloud from the passenger side front.  I fill the tank and get into the car where it's blowing warmer again.  I get home and notice the green dye around the compressor down low. 

I'm thinking the compressor blow off valve is releasing refrigerant because of high pressure.  When I had it idling in the driveway the gauges were reading 26 on the low side and 185 on the high side the first time with just the one can.  When I added more it went to 30 on the low side and 225 on the high side.  These numbers were taken while it was 90* outside.  I'm thinking there is a restriction in the system that shows up once I take it for a drive.  

I'm leaning towards the compressor is obviously working, so I'll leave it alone for now.  I've ordered an expansion valve and drier thinking this may be my problem.  I'll investigate further when I get it apart unless anyone thinks differently.  Since the expansion valve is on the firewall and I need to change the spark plugs anyway, it will help by pulling the intake plenum.  Given the system will be open it just seems like good measure to replace the dryer and check if it's still intact...if not, it could also be my blockage problem. 

The only other culprit would be the pressure valve.  I did read another thread relative to the compressor discharge hose separating causing the leak, but they never answered about the blow off valve...

I have a similar issue and made a separate post.  I re-read your post here and you don't really say if your leak was coming from the hose of the blow off valve.  Was the hose causing an internal blockage causing the blow off valve to release refrigerant, or did the hose have a small hole which only leaked under pressure? 

We bought back our middle daughters car...long story...which is a 2008 Ford Edge Limited and have had it up and running since the middle of the summer. The a/c has been cooling fine at 45*-48* vent temperature depending on outside air temperatures...it's been really hot. Sunday we drove the car and everything seemed okay on the short trip to and from church. So a couple hours later we get in the car to go get our youngest daughter and immediately notice the a/c blowing warm air. I cycle the a/c system on/off and my wife noticed in the beginning there was a short burst of cold air before going warm.  When we got back home I noticed the compressor clutch was engaged when the a/c was on but the refrigerant line coming off the compressor was not cold. I also checked it the next morning after sitting all night and that's when the compressor clutch would not engage when turned on. I hook up Forscan to check DTC codes and there's nothing related to the a/c system. I also did the KOEO self test and the fans powered up, then the compressor clutch engaged. I hook up a set of gauges and the high and low side were just above 0 with engine off. So I jump the compressor clutch relay while the engine is running and get a reading of -20 on the low side and +20 on the high side, but I did not let it run long given the compressor could be damaged due to lack of lubrication.  The difference in pressures when running is telling me the system is still somewhat closed, but maybe it's just showing the compressor is still doing it's job and able to pump.  Either way I need to look for a leak. 

I looked at another thread with a similar issue where a blow off valve was mentioned...assuming that would happen if there was a blockage...but I didn't hear the hissing and/or pop if that valve would of let refrigerant out.  The fact the compressor clutch was still engaging when we returned home the second time, I'm thinking a slower leak.  The op found a bad discharge line down by the compressor and I did notice some residue down there when looking to see if the clutch was engaging, so I'll start there when this rain lets up.  Given I will more than likely have to suck the system back down and recharge it, I may as well take a look at the orifice tube for debris, but not sure where it's located in the system...

Hooked up Forscan and no codes related to a/c so did the KOEO test and fans powered up then compressor clutch engaged.  I hooked up a/c gauges and both high and low side are near 0.  Strange part is when I remove the compressor clutch relay and insert a jumper wire to engage the clutch while the engine is running I get a low side pressure of -20 and a high side pressure of +20.  Not sure what to think about this...

On 9/26/2023 at 3:32 AM, Cerberus said:

Try a high quality fuel system cleaner. I like BG44k.

Dirty or sticky injectors can cause all kinds of symptoms that are difficult to trace

it is likely that your O2 sensors are age skewed as dillard said. impossible to test for this, because it reads as if it knows what it is talking about but the input (exhaust) can actually be much richer than the output (voltage) indicates. 

and, if you're going to change your upstream sensors, running the fuel system cleaner through it before hand is advisable as opposed to after. 

The injectors are new as stated in my initial post.  I filled up again yesterday and hand calculated 13.3 mpg and the avg mpg on the dash is showing 15-16 so driving it more as opposed to sitting idle waiting for our daughter to get out of school for 10-15 minutes makes a difference.  I will be hooking up Forscan and taking a look as now a new issue has popped up as of yesterday. 

We left for church yesterday morning for the short drive to/from church and everything seemed fine.  We go to pick up our daughter an hour or two later and notice the a/c is not getting cold.  When back at the house both cooling fans are running and the a/c clutch is engaging when turned on and disengaging when turned off, but the refrigerant lines under the hood are warm not cold.  This morning the car is cold after sitting the night I start car and neither cooling fan is running.  I turn on the a/c and the clutch doesn't engage nor do the cooling fans come on.  This car has the towing package so I am understanding one fan should come on when the car is cold and the a/c is turned on as stated in the following thread by autom8r about midway down.  The a/c has been working fine prior, it just seems like all of a sudden it's on the blink which is why I'm leaning towards the cooling fans or possibly a pressure switch, but I will put the a/c gauges on it to see what pressure readings I get.

Looks like 2007-2014 are the years that interchange for future reference...

...surely someone has been through this before and knows...

So they are black?

I pulled and cleaned the throttle body...it was dirty, but not too bad...and maf sensor, which still looked newish.  I know in the 6 years and 50k miles since we've had it this has not been done.  It seemed to might of helped a little, but still idle around 625-650 rpm, and the "growling" at a stop light is still present.  Next step is to look at the upstream O2 sensors via Forscan and see what's going on with them.  Mileage seems to be up by 3 or so mpg as I've been driving the car more and not sitting idling waiting on our daughter to get out of school for 10- 15 minutes...probably need to get some highway driving in and see...

The O2 sensors are originals as far as I know...seems like there would be a way to test them.  Maybe at the least they should be pulled and cleaned.  I always thought the map sensor was either good or bad and couldn't be cleaned...but I'm only familiar with diesels and old school carburetor engines.  The throttle body is easy enough to get to so I'll take a closer look.  I did notice yesterday afternoon when cruising 50 mph for a mile or so I reset the mpg on the dash and it went up to around 19 mpg before I came up to a stop light. 

I read somewhere the tow package cars idled lower when we first got the car because it really needs more rpm when at a stop light.  I'm wondering if the two...bad mileage and low idle...are connected.  That leans me towards dirty throttle body, but it didn't look that bad when I did the water pump back when...may need to take another closer look, took a peek when doing the OSS  TSS.  I guess it could also be 02 sensors or map sensor, but I'd think that would throw a code.  I'll also check accuracy of odometer given mpg calculator is showing more than hand calculated.

So I've run a  tank of gas through the Edge we bought back from our middle daughter.  I've just been running around close to home for now and the MPG calculator on the dash shows 11- 12 mpg.  I just filled it up and hand calculated 9 mpg.  The car has the trailer towing package and I put spark plugs in it when I did the water pump 15k-20k miles ago.  It's also recently had new injectors within the last couple thousand miles... and always passed smog at inspection, but don't know the numbers.  The throttle body looked in decent shape, but I will probably clean it given we bought the car with 93k on the clock and I've not touched it now sitting at 144k on the clock.  

One other thing I've always noticed the idle is about 600 rpm with it in gear and maybe 650 rpm in park.  I read somewhere several years back that the cars with the towing packaged were idled down some...maybe to compensate for the radiator cooling fans as they are different.  I'm wondering if the idle can be sped up by 100 rpm or so through a procedure and/or Forscan.  It's kind of annoying when sitting at a light due to the noise it makes at the lower rpm.  I can idle it up a little by barely pressing the gas peddle and the annoying noise goes away.

On 9/14/2023 at 1:01 AM, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

theoretically it is possible to upgrade older engines to the newer parts you mentioned.

 

it has been done on the Flex if you want to research that. there is a spreadsheet that shows part numbers involved.

 

It's been awhile, but you may be right...I seem to recall that kit had the upper cam gears and I didn't want to touch those...but it was advertised for the 3.5L engine.

On 4/14/2023 at 10:03 AM, sid660raptor said:

Also everyone say to replace timing chain tensioners,can I get away without replacing them rn??

Our oldest daughters 2008 Ford Tarus Limited fwd...same engine and transmission...was all highway miles by older retired couple. The water pump went at 145,000 miles.  She was in college so I had a shop do the work. When it was apart the tensioner guides had little wear so we just did the water pump. She now has 205,000 miles on it several years later and no issues. Our middle daughters 2008 Ford Edge Limited fwd had the water pump fail at 125,000 miles. She was also in college, but I decided to save the money and go get it via a tow dolly and bring it home for the repair. I did water pump, tensioners, lower gears, chain, plugs, etc. If I remember right I rented the timing holding tool locally. I just bought the car back from her last month with 143,500 miles and no issues because it has had the trouble issues fixed...well, I did have to put new OSS and TSS sensors in the transmission. I found out later there is an updated double roller timing chain and sprockets. I didn't replace the oil pump on either of these cars and so far it's all good.

2 hours ago, enigma-2 said:

 

Check these out.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_104BV960N/Boss-BV960NV.html?tp=20212

(They have better radios running well over a grand, but better functions and options like Sirus satellite radio and stuff. Look around while you're there). But this one lets you add a backup camera. 

 

Steering wheel control harness:

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_104BV960N/Boss-BV960NV.html?tp=20212

Thanks for this...the links  are the same, but I'll see if I can find the harness...

Needing floor mats for our 2008 Ford Edge Limited.  In looking it seems the most commonly available are for the 2015+ cars.  I would like the all weather rubber floor liner types like WeatherTech, Husky, etc.  It looks like the later year versions might be a little skinnier adjacent to the seat.  I don't need an exact fit, but want them to not look weird either.  I have the WeatherTech mats in my 2000 F350 which are for 2015+ trucks and they fit good.  So if anyone has put in the newer year model mats in their first generation Edge, share your thoughts, pictures, etc.

On 9/8/2023 at 4:59 PM, enigma-2 said:

Hi bwguardian, read through this previous discussion where a fellow forum member did this on a 2008.

 

 

Yes, I've read through that one and another one here on this forum...wish some of those guys would have followed up...

On 9/8/2023 at 3:57 PM, dabangsta said:

Personally I wouldn't subject myself to 15 year old technology if I was expecting more than FM radio or streaming. Last maps are from 2015 for that setup (same one in a 2010 MKZ I test drove).

 

While I am personally fine with my SYNC 1 version in my 2012 Fusion (it just streams, there is no display other than VFD that shows the song name) as I have a phone mount on the dash, so I get up to date navigation, music streaming, etc. But when I drive my 2019 SEL with SYNC 3 I wish I had a touch screen setup in the dash. Since it is a double-din opening, I would go aftermarket with something that supports Android Auto/Apple Carplay.

The reason I'm reluctant of going aftermarket is I've read I might loose the steering wheel stereo controls and possibly the Sync functions.

Surely someone has some insight on this...

I bought back our middle daughters 2008 Ford Edge Limited...long story...given I know the history of maintenance for the most part.  We will be driving it for a little bit...I'm going through the car cleaning and fixing some cosmetic things...and possibly letting our youngest daughter drive it within the next year when she gets her license.  It has the 6 cd stereo with the Sync function, but the channel selector faces are worn through so I'm wanting to clean that up.  I've noticed the sound goes flat sometimes and will come back if I turn it off, then back on....not sure if this is the amplifier, the stereo, or the back speakers.  I've found a nice navigation stereo which apparently came out of a 2008 Edge for a decent price...they also have the unit like is in the car currently.  I always prefer stock over aftermarket, so that's why I'm leaning towards these units.  I've researched and read about installing the nav unit...the part number on the case of the one I'm looking at is AL-1T-18K931-AD...and have read anything from plug and play to loosing steering wheel, sync, amplifier, etc. functions.  If they do not have the GPS antenna I know that will have to be sourced at the least, but I don't think they're that expensive.  So I'm asking for input in doing this given the thread or two I found here on this forum were from 2007-2013 to see which stereo might be best...