bwguardian

I have a similar issue and made a separate post. I re-read your post here and you don't really say if your leak was coming from the hose of the blow off valve. Was the hose causing an internal blockage causing the blow off valve to release refrigerant, or did the hose have a small hole which only leaked under pressure?

We bought back our middle daughters car...long story...which is a 2008 Ford Edge Limited and have had it up and running since the middle of the summer. The a/c has been cooling fine at 45*-48* vent temperature depending on outside air temperatures...it's been really hot. Sunday we drove the car and everything seemed okay on the short trip to and from church. So a couple hours later we get in the car to go get our youngest daughter and immediately notice the a/c blowing warm air. I cycle the a/c system on/off and my wife noticed in the beginning there was a short burst of cold air before going warm. When we got back home I noticed the compressor clutch was engaged when the a/c was on but the refrigerant line coming off the compressor was not cold. I also checked it the next morning after sitting all night and that's when the compressor clutch would not engage when turned on. I hook up Forscan to check DTC codes and there's nothing related to the a/c system. I also did the KOEO self test and the fans powered up, then the compressor clutch engaged. I hook up a set of gauges and the high and low side were just above 0 with engine off. So I jump the compressor clutch relay while the engine is running and get a reading of -20 on the low side and +20 on the high side, but I did not let it run long given the compressor could be damaged due to lack of lubrication. The difference in pressures when running is telling me the system is still somewhat closed, but maybe it's just showing the compressor is still doing it's job and able to pump. Either way I need to look for a leak. I looked at another thread with a similar issue where a blow off valve was mentioned...assuming that would happen if there was a blockage...but I didn't hear the hissing and/or pop if that valve would of let refrigerant out. The fact the compressor clutch was still engaging when we returned home the second time, I'm thinking a slower leak. The op found a bad discharge line down by the compressor and I did notice some residue down there when looking to see if the clutch was engaging, so I'll start there when this rain lets up. Given I will more than likely have to suck the system back down and recharge it, I may as well take a look at the orifice tube for debris, but not sure where it's located in the system...

Hooked up Forscan and no codes related to a/c so did the KOEO test and fans powered up then compressor clutch engaged. I hooked up a/c gauges and both high and low side are near 0. Strange part is when I remove the compressor clutch relay and insert a jumper wire to engage the clutch while the engine is running I get a low side pressure of -20 and a high side pressure of +20. Not sure what to think about this...

The injectors are new as stated in my initial post. I filled up again yesterday and hand calculated 13.3 mpg and the avg mpg on the dash is showing 15-16 so driving it more as opposed to sitting idle waiting for our daughter to get out of school for 10-15 minutes makes a difference. I will be hooking up Forscan and taking a look as now a new issue has popped up as of yesterday. We left for church yesterday morning for the short drive to/from church and everything seemed fine. We go to pick up our daughter an hour or two later and notice the a/c is not getting cold. When back at the house both cooling fans are running and the a/c clutch is engaging when turned on and disengaging when turned off, but the refrigerant lines under the hood are warm not cold. This morning the car is cold after sitting the night I start car and neither cooling fan is running. I turn on the a/c and the clutch doesn't engage nor do the cooling fans come on. This car has the towing package so I am understanding one fan should come on when the car is cold and the a/c is turned on as stated in the following thread by autom8r about midway down. The a/c has been working fine prior, it just seems like all of a sudden it's on the blink which is why I'm leaning towards the cooling fans or possibly a pressure switch, but I will put the a/c gauges on it to see what pressure readings I get.

Looks like 2007-2014 are the years that interchange for future reference...

...surely someone has been through this before and knows...

So they are black?

I pulled and cleaned the throttle body...it was dirty, but not too bad...and maf sensor, which still looked newish. I know in the 6 years and 50k miles since we've had it this has not been done. It seemed to might of helped a little, but still idle around 625-650 rpm, and the "growling" at a stop light is still present. Next step is to look at the upstream O2 sensors via Forscan and see what's going on with them. Mileage seems to be up by 3 or so mpg as I've been driving the car more and not sitting idling waiting on our daughter to get out of school for 10- 15 minutes...probably need to get some highway driving in and see...

The O2 sensors are originals as far as I know...seems like there would be a way to test them. Maybe at the least they should be pulled and cleaned. I always thought the map sensor was either good or bad and couldn't be cleaned...but I'm only familiar with diesels and old school carburetor engines. The throttle body is easy enough to get to so I'll take a closer look. I did notice yesterday afternoon when cruising 50 mph for a mile or so I reset the mpg on the dash and it went up to around 19 mpg before I came up to a stop light.

I read somewhere the tow package cars idled lower when we first got the car because it really needs more rpm when at a stop light. I'm wondering if the two...bad mileage and low idle...are connected. That leans me towards dirty throttle body, but it didn't look that bad when I did the water pump back when...may need to take another closer look, took a peek when doing the OSS TSS. I guess it could also be 02 sensors or map sensor, but I'd think that would throw a code. I'll also check accuracy of odometer given mpg calculator is showing more than hand calculated.

So I've run a tank of gas through the Edge we bought back from our middle daughter. I've just been running around close to home for now and the MPG calculator on the dash shows 11- 12 mpg. I just filled it up and hand calculated 9 mpg. The car has the trailer towing package and I put spark plugs in it when I did the water pump 15k-20k miles ago. It's also recently had new injectors within the last couple thousand miles... and always passed smog at inspection, but don't know the numbers. The throttle body looked in decent shape, but I will probably clean it given we bought the car with 93k on the clock and I've not touched it now sitting at 144k on the clock. One other thing I've always noticed the idle is about 600 rpm with it in gear and maybe 650 rpm in park. I read somewhere several years back that the cars with the towing packaged were idled down some...maybe to compensate for the radiator cooling fans as they are different. I'm wondering if the idle can be sped up by 100 rpm or so through a procedure and/or Forscan. It's kind of annoying when sitting at a light due to the noise it makes at the lower rpm. I can idle it up a little by barely pressing the gas peddle and the annoying noise goes away.

It's been awhile, but you may be right...I seem to recall that kit had the upper cam gears and I didn't want to touch those...but it was advertised for the 3.5L engine.

Our oldest daughters 2008 Ford Tarus Limited fwd...same engine and transmission...was all highway miles by older retired couple. The water pump went at 145,000 miles. She was in college so I had a shop do the work. When it was apart the tensioner guides had little wear so we just did the water pump. She now has 205,000 miles on it several years later and no issues. Our middle daughters 2008 Ford Edge Limited fwd had the water pump fail at 125,000 miles. She was also in college, but I decided to save the money and go get it via a tow dolly and bring it home for the repair. I did water pump, tensioners, lower gears, chain, plugs, etc. If I remember right I rented the timing holding tool locally. I just bought the car back from her last month with 143,500 miles and no issues because it has had the trouble issues fixed...well, I did have to put new OSS and TSS sensors in the transmission. I found out later there is an updated double roller timing chain and sprockets. I didn't replace the oil pump on either of these cars and so far it's all good.

Thanks for this...the links are the same, but I'll see if I can find the harness...

Needing floor mats for our 2008 Ford Edge Limited. In looking it seems the most commonly available are for the 2015+ cars. I would like the all weather rubber floor liner types like WeatherTech, Husky, etc. It looks like the later year versions might be a little skinnier adjacent to the seat. I don't need an exact fit, but want them to not look weird either. I have the WeatherTech mats in my 2000 F350 which are for 2015+ trucks and they fit good. So if anyone has put in the newer year model mats in their first generation Edge, share your thoughts, pictures, etc.