Jump to content


Edge Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About robrivers

  • Rank
    New Member

Recent Profile Visitors

106 profile views
  1. robrivers

    Can't get the spark plug coil connector seated back in??

    Shoot it's a 2009 Ford Edge. I have some dialectic, worth a shot. The engines pretty much a goner anyway so I guess this doesn't matter much. Water pump blew and dumped a good amount of coolant into the oil pan, while simultaneously blowing something up under the radiator because coolant flowed like a river out of the front side of the car. When I drained the oil coolant came out first then a muddy mess followed. 180k on it, we have 2 other cars so may just get rid of it after I poke around a bit.
  2. This is driving me crazy, 2 of the 6 coil connectors just won't clip all the way on to the plug coils and I can't figure out any reason why. I did finally get one of the two on after fighting with it on and off for days but I don't know how! I even removed the red lock tab entirely thinking maybe I mangled it when popping them off but that's not the issue. The remaining plastic clip that locks onto the little nub presses freely until I try to connect it to the coil then it gets pretty tight. But I'm like 1/8" or so from the connector fully seating and locking onto the tab. I Still can't get the last one in place the pins and receptacles on each side look fine, the only thing I can think of is there is an orange rubber kind of membrane at the end of the connector inside the black housing that maybe due to the heat outside the parts have expanded and preventing it from pushing in? Assuming that part is for waterproofing, I tried poking it a bit and reconnecting but that did a whole lot of nothing. I'm out of ideas, luckily this is not my daily driver.
  3. robrivers

    TPMS relearn won't trigger on tire.

    I did try it 180 degree, and all around the tire but nothing.. Pain in the ass. That's all I have to say haha. Thanks guys
  4. robrivers

    TPMS relearn won't trigger on tire.

    I got excited for a minute when I read the sensors go to sleep and need to be woken up first thinking hell yes that's the issue, the car was sitting for an hour. But I drove it around for 10 minutes and then tried again with no luck. However it sounds like there is no reason the TPMS fro the Edge tires wouldn't work on the Escape if they are re-learned - or that was my take from the article since it listed Edge, Escape and Mariner all together - So I think I'm going to exchange this $10 tool for something better and try again.
  5. Hey, I know this is Ford Edge forum, but wondering if anyone might know if the TPMS on the 2009 Edge would work on a 2012 Escape? Our Edge water pump failed and needless to say pretty sure she's toast now and we had just put on 4 new tires a few days before. Long story short, we have a 2012 escape with 2 flats we don't drive it much so I swapped the Edge wheels over to the Escape but for weeks now we have a warning that TPMS system malfunctioning. Something along those lines on the screen. I know these wheels have a sensor it's what made us buy new tires after the front one constantly was losing air and triggering the low pressure alert on the Edge. I got one of those very cheap Relearn tools from Amazon, but starting at the first tire it just never triggers. I'm assuming the sensor is connected to the valve stem but I also tried doing it on the opposite side and even all around the tire after giving up. So my guess is the sensors are not compatible between the two models? Just asking to see if anyone knows that for sure before I waste my time blaming it on the cheapo tool and bother exchanging it for a different model. Any help would be appreciated, sorry if it's a bit off topic.
  6. So got back at it today and uh 4 of the 5 lug nuts on the tire were loose! Stupid me I must have forgotten to torque them down and that was all the noise and uncontrollable steering! I pulled the axle back out and checked the bearing and HUB and it was seated all the way in with 0 play. Rechecked torque on all the bolts and everything is great again. Did the passenger side bearing today as well and had no issues. Drove it back home tonight a good 2 hour 170mile drive up from the in-laws farm and she's smooth and rattle free
  7. It is a Timken bearing. I just picked up a new axle nut as well, though I'd be impressed (as I lay upside in the ditch) if the old nut came loose on it's own because it was a beast to get all the way off and back on!
  8. Installing the new bearing was going pretty smooth until it was about 3/4 way in it became hard to continue in and had to pull out the 4 foot pipe to put on the breaker bar again and it was just squeaking loud as we cranked it in. So we loosened up the bearing press plates and Dad sprayed some WD40 in the back side of the bearing around the edges and then went back to cranking it in. The bearing did get seated all the way in the knuckle and C-clip installed. We are using one of those Harbor Freight wheel bearing adapter press kits. Then we pressed in the hub, which looked like it was pressed in all the way judging from the front but after removing the press plates, the end of the hub shaft did not make it all the way to the end of the bearing on the backside, looked like 1/4 or so shy. At that point I noticed there was some play in the bearing, I could wiggle the hub and when pulling toward me the bearing looked like it could slide in and out just maybe 1/8". When rotate the hub it looks like the whole bearing is rotating on the outer race (I think), the inner race with hub only looks like it's rotating if I put a little pressure down on it. Thought after tightening the axle nut down on it everything would pull itself together in the right place. Took it out for quick spin and it drove much better, sounded fine until a couple turns in there were lots of clunking and it sounded worse than the old bearing. FYI This drive was on our farm land, 0 people or objects around if things went bad. 1) When pressing the hub in I just used one of the plates that covered the opening on the backside of the knuckle which put the pressure on the knuckle and not the inner race of the bearing and I *think* as the hub pressed in it PUSHED OUT the backside split of the inner race and/or deformed the back shield. I think that's where the wiggle and side to side play came from, Is that possible? 2) I might be crazy in thinking rotating the hub the outer race was turning, but thought it could that be from use using the WD40? It definitely wasn't easy to get that new bearing seated so the outer race had a good tight fit. Unless it just appeared to me as the whole bearing assembly rotating because I think I broke it all apart from #1. 3) It took 20 minutes with a 600ftlb impact wrench to get off the axle nut, it would take 30 seconds or so just to make 1 full revolution of the nut. Is that unusual? Reinstalling later was the same, the threads looked fine but it took forever to get that thing off/on and that's with an impact gun, didn't seem right. We haven't gotten back to pull it apart again, won't be able to until next weekend. I have another bearing, but trying to figure out all the places we went wrong before trying again. Any thoughts?