NeuroBeaker
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Posts posted by NeuroBeaker
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On 6/9/2022 at 6:14 PM, Sage said:
Not sure which model of Edge you may have, but. I never found a stiffer sway bar than the one that came on my ST. I have not noticed any swaying as you mentioned. I did find a front strut tower support brace and I do like the better feed back on the steering when in corners. To me, it did tighten up the flex in the front end when cornering.
Thanks Sage.
I've got a 2015 Titanium with the V6 and AWD. Which front strut tower support brace did you opt for?
All the best,
Andrew.
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If using a much stiffer sway bar setup with stock springs, would this result in increased comfort in the ride? I'm currently getting a little motion sick on interstates when crosswind or turbulent air from trucks gives me a bit of sway.
All the best,
Andrew.
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On 11/28/2021 at 4:22 PM, NeuroBeaker said:
I'm eyeing up these switchback front indicator lights:
GTR Lighting Carbide Series 2.0 7440/7443 LED Bulbs | HR GTR.LED590 (headlightrevolution.com)
From the blurb on the seller's website, it looks like it doesn't require resistors as they're built into the bulb. Unless I'm missing something, it should be plug and play. Has anyone tried these or similar?
Alternatively, here's another option that seems to require a resistor:
GTR Lighting Armor Series 7440/7443 LED Bulbs | HR GTR.LED290 (headlightrevolution.com)
And here's what might be the brightest possible option, which can come with in-line plug and play resistors:
The Brightest 7443 LED Turn Signal Bulbs On the Planet | GTR i-LED | HR (headlightrevolution.com)
Not sure what route I want to go, but I'm leaning towards the one that's a simple plug-and-play bulb in the stock housing. Any recommendations?
All the best,
Andrew.
Unfortunately, none of these bulbs are compatible. I tried the GTR i-LED and the GTR Lighting Carbide series myself but had to return both items as incompatible with the 2015-2018 Edge. The GTR Lighting Armor series was tried by another of Headlight Revolution's Edge-owning customers (anyone here?) and also proved incompatible.
The issue is that in the Edge the front turn indicator socket is a 7440 with a single live contact and two earth contacts. It lacks a second live contact to make either switchbacks or LEDs with two circuits of bulbs work. The Edge controls the sidelight/indication by varying the voltage and running it through a single filament bulb rather than flipping between two functional circuits. Unfortunately, Headlight Revolution reports that they do not have an LED sidelight/indicator bulb compatible with the 2015-2018 Edge.
All the best,
Andrew.
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On 3/16/2018 at 5:28 PM, NeuroBeaker said:
What are the brightest T20 / 7440 / WY21W front indicator bulbs available without going to LED? I don't have FORScan and am not sure how to go about acquiring and using it. My 2015 Edge Titanium is also still under original warranty and a CPO warranty after that, so I don't want to be messing with too many things other than simple bulb selection.
All the best,
Andrew.
I'm eyeing up these switchback front indicator lights:
GTR Lighting Carbide Series 2.0 7440/7443 LED Bulbs | HR GTR.LED590 (headlightrevolution.com)
From the blurb on the seller's website, it looks like it doesn't require resistors as they're built into the bulb. Unless I'm missing something, it should be plug and play. Has anyone tried these or similar?
Alternatively, here's another option that seems to require a resistor:
GTR Lighting Armor Series 7440/7443 LED Bulbs | HR GTR.LED290 (headlightrevolution.com)
And here's what might be the brightest possible option, which can come with in-line plug and play resistors:
The Brightest 7443 LED Turn Signal Bulbs On the Planet | GTR i-LED | HR (headlightrevolution.com)
Not sure what route I want to go, but I'm leaning towards the one that's a simple plug-and-play bulb in the stock housing. Any recommendations?
All the best,
Andrew.
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On 6/4/2021 at 5:27 PM, enigma-2 said:
So, what exactly is wrong with using Motorcraft?
I wanted to give another parts manufacturer a try to see if it was more durable. It was a failed experiment.
As it turns out, Moog doesn't make a part for the 2nd generation car and other manufacturers were pretty unsure on the numbers of splines used between 1st and 2nd generation cars. I ended up getting my mechanic (a Motorcraft dealer) to just get me Motorcraft parts.
All the best,
Andrew.
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On 10/22/2020 at 1:26 PM, NeuroBeaker said:
For a 2015 Edge (3.5 AWD), is the rear hub/bearing assembly the exact same part as the front? I'm planning on replacing all 4 wheel bearings on mine as I do a suspension refresh, but I can't seem to find any complete assemblies that specify that they're for the front. For example, here are some rear assemblies:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tmk-ha590261/applications/drivetrain/awd
Are the fronts and rears interchangeable on an AWD model? I'd appreciate any advice anyone has.
All the best,
Andrew.
As it turns out, the Moog wheel hubs are supposed to be interchangeable between fronts and rears on the AWD models, however these particular hubs have the wrong number of splines for a 2015-2018 (second generation) car. The 2015 model year they fit are for the first generation Edge, the last of which were rolled out in early 2015. If you've got a 2015 year second generation car, it seems safer to input the year as 2016 on all the parts websites to ensure you get the correct component.
All the best,
Andrew.
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On 3/14/2021 at 5:58 PM, Duece McCracken said:
Well Andrew...
They are very bright. Camera auto dimmed as much as it could, lol.
You'll need some disposable gloves, a heatgun or lighter for heat shrink, an electrical joint compound or dielectric grease.
They attach with 3m tape, and have a primer for the plastic. You have to use their adapter and heat shrink it to the oem female ends.
Popping out the OEM puddles sucks. You need a small flat to actuate the retaining tab, and gently pry the light down a bit on that side while the tab is depressed. Then work on the complete opposite side with the small flat head to pop the light out of it's hinge/stationary pivot side. The puddle lights have very very frail retaining clippy tab guys. So be real careful.
I had some corrosion on my factory terminals. I should have really cleaned them up, but I got lazy. So I may have to get back in there if the passenger side stops working.
Also, when you finally go to stick them to the sideview, favor the REAR of the vehicle as much as possible. You can kinda see a little lip action in the front in my pics. I was able to eliminate this on the passenger side by holding it to the rear while sticking.
Already hosed them down at the car wash, they are working great.
Thanks so much, that's a terrific write-up and I appreciate your installation advice! ?
All the best,
Andrew.
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On 12/2/2020 at 6:28 PM, Duece McCracken said:
https://www.vleds.com/shop-products/puddle-lights/ford-puddle-light.html
Sum'B! Full replacements. I may get these. I like my upgraded puddle lights, but the ford housings kind suck. Decisions...
Hey Mr. McCracken,
Did you go ahead and fit those VLEDs? If so, how'd it go? ?
You're now my Ford Edge Guru, so I'm following the stuff you're doing with great interest. ?
All the best,
Andrew.
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That is disappointing. I was considering ordering today same lines, given the open unaddressed recall on the brake lines from Ford.
Were there any other alternatives you considered?
All the best,
Andrew.
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On 10/3/2014 at 8:02 PM, macbwt said:
Made the appointment to replace the drivers side strut bearing mount and found out the passenger side was a master pro part that failed and was replaced with a MOOG strut bearing mount. I replaced almost every part of the suspension with MOOG parts except the strut bearing mounts. Guess which parts are failing? lol Moral to the story I guess is do not buy master pro parts. Stick with MOOG
On MOOG parts...
For a 2015 Edge (3.5 AWD), is the MOOG rear hub/bearing assembly the exact same part as the front hub/bearing assembly? I'm planning on replacing all 4 wheel bearings on mine as I do a suspension refresh, but I can't seem to find any complete assemblies that specify that they're for the front. For example, here's the rear assembly:
But the SummitRacing website indicates that they're for the rear only and recommends press-in bearings for the front. I'd rather just replace the front hubs instead to save messing around with presses. I'd appreciate any advice you may have.
All the best,
Andrew.
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For a 2015 Edge (3.5 AWD), is the rear hub/bearing assembly the exact same part as the front? I'm planning on replacing all 4 wheel bearings on mine as I do a suspension refresh, but I can't seem to find any complete assemblies that specify that they're for the front. For example, here are some rear assemblies:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tmk-ha590261/applications/drivetrain/awd
Are the fronts and rears interchangeable on an AWD model? I'd appreciate any advice anyone has.
All the best,
Andrew.
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17 hours ago, enigma-2 said:
4th year + going on five on this Motorcraft battery. I typically get 6 to 7 years on them. IMO they are one of the best on the market.
(I used them in all of my cars, Ford or not). Two years means something is wrong. Have you ever checked your charging system? Belts?
My Edge is a 2015 and I think this is the original battery, so 5 years old. I'm doing a lot of VERY short journeys in it and I think that's what knackered it. My negative terminal is completely corroded now, so it seems to have suffered a failure in that regard.
On 8/29/2020 at 5:12 PM, Duece McCracken said:No worries on the Q's, mate.
Sounds like its a good time to pull the OEM and get some measurements. Well, actually, you can just measure off the OEM, just be careful of the terminals, lmfao! No need to practice welding with a tape measure.
I'm trying to remember where I got the information to upsize. Whether is was a f150/Expedition forum or not. Let me give it a googles and see if it jogs my memory.
Well I cross referenced the battery tray, and It's only in the edge, but based on engine and accessories the battery size changes within the model.
Sorry I dont have much more information. A few measurements should sort you out though. Theres actually three battery tie down locations, but im not sure if the most forward one is usable. Just something to double check/keep in mind as you get adventurous. Please keep me in the loop on what you come up with. Would be beneficial to all of us.
I measured the space and although the NSB-AGM24F (10.87L x 6.77W x 8.86H) will fit in the space, I don't think I'll be able to put the terminal connectors on and off (or get jumper cables onto it) while it's in place if I ever need to. I think I'm going to give myself the extra bit of headroom by getting the NSB-AGM48 (10.91L x 6.87W x 7.42H) like you did. You've had a good experience with it and that's confidence-inspiring, so I'm off to go buy one today.
Thanks so much for your help, I really appreciate it!
All the best,
Andrew.
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2 hours ago, Duece McCracken said:
I actually buy these Northstars off amazon, i think its hilarious to get free shipping on a car battery, lmfao!!!
its a heavy, AGM almost Pure lead battery, that I run in two vehicles currently, the other one I have had for 2 or three years with no issues.
I hope you don't mind me asking these questions on your modification thread - I really do appreciate your help.
I've had a look at the bracket you were talking about and think I might be able to squeeze the NSB-AGM24F (more reserve capacity than the NSB-AGM48) in there:
https://www.northstarbattery.com/product/nsb-agm24f
It's marginally narrower and marginally shorter than the one you got to fit, it's just 1.33 inches taller. What do you think?
All the best,
Andrew.
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2 minutes ago, Duece McCracken said:
The battery tray actually has additional holes to move the bracket forward to accommodate a larger battery. This is probably due to this same battery tray being used in other models. So it was just threading in the battery hold down in a hole closer to the front of the vehicle. Not a big deal at all, thankfully.
Thanks very much! I really appreciate your help. I'll look for similar holes and probably get the same battery you did. ?
All the best,
Andrew.
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On 8/13/2020 at 5:01 PM, Duece McCracken said:
Battery sat for too long, so I swapped it out for this beast. Upsized, and much nicer.
Did you have to modify any of the bracket to get that battery to fit?
I've got a 2015 Ford Edge Titanium with the 3.5 V6 and AWD. I work as a Realtor, so I make a lot of very short trips with lots of stops and starts. The other day I had my battery give up on me and I'm borrowing a car to continue working this weekend. I'd like to replace the batter with something that has higher capacity to be able to tolerate the heavy duty required of it.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
All the best,
Andrew.
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Hello Edge Enthusiasts,
I've been doing some crawling around under the car recently, and I've noticed that the underbody splash shields are a little bit flimsy. I was wondering if anyone had ever installed something slightly more robust for protection when doing some light offroading.
I noticed this product, which is a more comprehensive cover made of plastic (no idea what "plastic steel" is, but I'm guessing it's marketing):
Slightly more beefy, there's a version of an underbody shield that is made of steel:
That second one might be interesting to combine with:
I don't think any of these products are going to enable rock crawling or skidding over boulders, but I wonder if they'd be a little bit more protective than the essentially felt/cardboard splash guards that Ford fitted to the underbody. Are there any downsides to these, aside from cost? Overheating potential?
All the best,
Andrew.
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Does anyone have the specification sheet for the proper 4-wheel alignment settings for a 2015 Ford Edge Titanium 3.5V6 AWD with 20" wheels? My dealer messed up my settings with a complimentary alignment (didn't save the old settings, of course) and an independent garage had a go too but the car still feels nervous as if it still has too much negative camber or too much toe-in.
All the best,
Andrew.
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Ok...
Module reset: failed to correct the problem.
Master reset: failed to correct the problem.
Pulling and inspecting all the relevant fuses: all fine and failed to correct the problem.
Phoned the local garage to get the diagnostic machine plugged in and when I set off to drive there everything decided to work perfectly. The garage said the car recorded a "low voltage event" to the module on the morning it was giving me problems, but since it was working now they advised not messing with it. The battery tested ok (not perfect, but ok), so I wonder if the electrics in the car are very sensitive to battery output on startup/initialization.
At some point, I may install an uprated battery. I used to do that on previous cars for below freezing cranking ability, but I haven't had any such starting issues with the Edge so hadn't thought it necessary.
As the problem is self resolving in my case, I'm afraid I add little further data to the discussion.
thesavo - what resolved your issue?
All the best,
Andrew.
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Well... my fuses are fine. Taking it into the shop to hook it up to their diagnostics reader.
All the best,
Andrew.
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Did you resolve this by looking at the fuses?
I have had this problem appear on my 2015 Edge Titanium and both module resets and a master reset failed to resolve it. I'm currently going through my owners manual and service manual for instructions on how to check/replace the fuses.
All the best,
Andrew.
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1 hour ago, billfl said:
For those computers which do not adapt to octane changes, one could always install a customized tune which advances ignition timing but then you must keep using the octane level fuel for which the tune was created. Another notable item is that engines with significantly retarded timing (think 87 octane and going up hills or full of passengers) tend to run hotter. Heat is the enemy. It comes down to individual choices much like how often does one, if ever, flush their coolant, flush their brake lines, change their oil, use synthetic oil vs dino oil
etc.
My personal choice, if an engine is capable of producing more power and being more responsive with premium, then premium it is for me.
I've torn down enough engines and replaced enough components to see the results of being penny wise, but pound foolish.
This was the issue with my SmartCar in the UK. I has a turbocharged 700cc Brabus Roadster engine in a ForTwo with a custom advanced timing tune, requiring ≥99 RON, so I used Shell V-Power (99 RON, preferred because of the loyalty program) or BP Ultimate (102 RON). Not a lot of power in absolute numbers, but it was such a light car that it went like the proverbial bat out of hell.
Speaking of other personal choices, my CPO warranty just expired, so my Edge is at an independent today getting fully synthetic oil change, gearbox oil change, PTU lubricant change, rear differential lubricant change, brake fluid change, all tires balanced, and a 4-wheel alignment. We're using all Motorcraft fluids. ?
All the best,
Andrew.
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Wow, thanks Wizard, great write-up!
All the best,
Andrew.
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3 hours ago, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:
Only the truck based 3.5EB has the dual injection systems currently in production. May migrate to the smaller engines as well, don't know. Hardly a new setup for overseas manufacturers.
I was based in the UK for 20 years and hadn't heard of Top Tier designations for fuels before, so it was the fuel type being a thing for over a decade that I am catching up on. I hadn't realized there was any difference between fuel options of the same octane rating.
In the UK, I used to exclusively buy Shell V-Power because I had a highly strung modified turbocharged engine that needed the higher octane rating. Here I went for the naturally aspirated V6 because I thought long-term maintenance would be easier.
All the best,
Andrew.
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32 minutes ago, todd92 said:
In direct injected engines, the fuel never touches the intake valves, so no cleaning can occur.
As far as cost, Costco gas is Top Tier, and it is the cheapest gas available anywhere. I use it exclusively. So need to pay more for Top Tier.
The intake valves seemed to be the point of measurement on the cars that were examined in the AAA study, but they didn't state that this was the sole location of carbon deposits to the exclusion of all other locations in the engine. I'm sure there are other areas that benefit from having detergents in the fuel.
Thanks for the Costco tip.
All the best,
Andrew.
Wrap exhaust near PTU?
in All Wheel Drive (AWD)
Posted · Edited by NeuroBeaker
I've been looking at this.
I have a 2015 Ford Edge Titanium 3.5L NA-V6 AWD, with a build date of 18th July 2015. The Dorman website says that this part is good on the Lincoln MKX (which I accept as mechanically identical) up to a production date of 05 July 2015. So it seems like it's applicable to the first generation cars but, for some reason, doesn't fit the second generation cars. I'm not sure if they're just being cautious with the website or if there's a fundamental difference between this unit on a 3.5L NA-V6 AWD car from Gen 1 (e.g. 2014) to Gen 2 (e.g. 2015-2018).
Any thoughts?
All the best,
Andrew.