mikeyhd

Bought front and rear kits from a 3rd party seller on Amazon. Great price. In the kit were Ultimax 2 pads (grey). The rear pads come with these "cup rings" that replace any kind of vibration shim or compound and they included instruction on how to install. In the same pad kit there were 2 black anodized clips which I assume replace OEM caliper "Brake Pad Slide". The problem I am having is there were only 2 clips included in the kit, whereas there are 8 clips installed in the calipers (4 per side). I contacted the seller and he says that only one clip is used per side. This is such a deviation from OEM, I would think that EBC would have included in their instructions how to deal with this new configuration. Out of 4 positions on the caliper, exactly where do I install the 1 clip? Does anyone have any firsthand experience they could share with me? Thanks, Mike What a dope...... I just realized they are not brake pad slides, they are squealers. Looking at the manual, it appears Ford doesn't use them and that threw me off. Odd how EBC included them in my kit for the rear, but not for the front.

Can anyone offer some insight from personal experience? Looking to purchase a kit with yellow pads and non-slotted rotors. Comments welcome.

Dean I have a 2012 Limited AWD. I invested in a "power bleeder" from Amazon. If you are pretty handy you can get away with just buying the specific cap for the car and making one yourself but I like the "store bought", it has a pressure gauge and it's nice to see it pump up to 50lbs before I crack open a bleeder. I can see where if you introduced air at the master cylinder you got a ways to go before all the air gets out...... then there's the uncertainty if it's in the HCU or one of 4 calipers. What a headache. A gallon of fresh fluid and one of those pressure bleeders will do the job. Good luck and happy hunting!!!

What I don't understand is why if the booster goes bad, the brakes go soft? To me, it seems the opposite would be the case. The booster multiplies the force applied to the master cylinder, failed booster would mean that the foot now has to apply all of that missing force for the same brake effect. A soft pedal, to me, implies that hydraulics are being bled around seals in the master cylinder or a line has ruptured, or a seal in the caliper is leaking. And that's why I'm an electrician, not an car mechanic.

Do you recall "the first time" the pedal went to the floor? Was it during an ABS event where the system actuated the Anti-lock feature and you could feel the pedal pulsating? I have an intermittent issue where the pedal goes to the floor. It happens every time I lose traction on snow, ice, slush, loose gravel or even hitting a pothole under hard braking. It is only temporary lasting sometimes minutes, sometimes hours. One time it happened as I crossed the border from Canada to Buffalo and didn't return to normal until I was a mere few blocks from home in Delaware. Dealer was no help....... "unable to recreate problem". But I discovered I was far from alone with the problem. I am quite surprised that no one has filed a complaint with the government. A valve sticks inside the HCU causing a pressure bypass condition. Replacing the unit seems to be the fix but at over $1700 I am living with it. I have found that sometimes...... sometimes..... slamming down hard on the pedal while it's in the stuck position frees things up. But it definitely is heart stopping when it occurs. When you did the bleed, was it a pressure bleed? Vacuum bleed? Or the standard pump the pedal bleed? My last bleed was a pressure bleed and the next time I do my brakes I am going to do the HCU (ABS activated) bleed under pressure to see if I can dislodge whatever is causing the valve to stick.

Let me start off by saying it is not the wheels and/or tires. Just had everything replaced for a non-related issue and the noise was there before and is still there today. The best way to describe the sound is when decelerating at low speed, the sound mimics the beating of helicopter blades off in the distance. When accelerating the sound becomes almost unnoticeable, but when at steady and highway speeds is just a hum. Can't say for sure since I haven't been in the passenger seat while driving, but it sounds like it's from the rear half, left side of vehicle. 2012 Ford Edge Limited AWD Any suggestions or advice would be helpful. Thanks.

Purchased this last week..... tested this past weekend.... good to go!!! And yes, you need to download and install FORscan. If you are downloading from the FORscan.org site, make sure you disable virus scanning apps, you will get a false positive from their unpacker. The app is free.... the license is free. And with this particular OBD II device you have the ability to use all of the functions as it can communicate via the Mid and High speed CAN buses. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081VQVD3F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Atulo, Did you PlastiDip spray over the chrome or buy new parts? Looks great.

I got it used at an amazing price back in 18', they accidentally priced it as an SEL and it has everything available that year. Love the car just want to blacken it.

I understand that new black primered front grill inserts are available online. About the chrome side mirror and door handles....... they "feel" like they are stuck on with adhesive. Has anyone removed them without damage? Was thinking of a heatgun and trying to pry them off by hand. Chrome window trim. They do NOT look like "stuck on" pieces and I am thinking Plastidip spraying them. Same for rear hatch chrome trim and headlight trim. Any advice from experience would be helpful. Thanks, Mike