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Djames

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About Djames

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  1. Dash lights went crazy a few weeks back while driving. Parked car and would not restart. Nothing. Went through everything we could before having towed to dealer. Dealer says instrument cluster and $900.00 for all. (breakdown in this topic) Say cluster is not sending signal to computer so need to replace cluster, add 2nd key (we only have one at this time)... total $900.00 parts and labor as follows... Cluster $365 Labor for cluster $190 Diagnose $100 New key $125 New key programming $65 Misc tax makes total around $900 when over. Not sure why key is needed if replacing cluster because cluster is simply between the ignition and the computer and is all "plug-ins" in between them. They did not say any computer reprogramming was needed after replacing cluster so not sure why I cannot replace cluster on my own (85 for used part) and why the car would not just start. Looking for any comments on explaining this to me because the Ford dealer explained it as best he could but I am still not getting this. I understand a second key may be needed at some point down the road, but not sure why this is even needed to make this all work. Your comments are appreciated.
  2. 07 Ford Edge SEL - 135K - Driving down the road at 60 MPH and all dash lights start to flash but car still has all power. Stop the car and shut it off and it will not restart. Most (if not all) dash lights are flashing. Turn the key and nothing. Had battery checked. Less than one year old and full juice and CCA is like new. Had car towed home. Hooked to rented scanner --- got the Theft Detected and Engine Disabled. Ford says need two keys... I only have one. Ford says tow it in... will need new key (2nd) and reset computer.... seems extreme. We recently replaced everything brake related. We were letting our adult son use car when his truck transmission went out and he replaced front lights with LEDs... that was done less than ten days ago before dash light went crazy and now it will not start. I am writing asking for thoughts on what to do and to know if Ford is correct. You thoughts and experiences are appreciated. NOTE: We called a local high end locksmith and they came out and could not access the computer to reset the key or make a new key. He believes (in his 32 years of experience) the problem is in the after market REMOTE START setup... model # 4X03. After he left, I researched the remote start system and found the reset info and nothing has worked. No further than we were before... still looking for help.
  3. First time poster so be patient with me... it is all relevant. 2007 Ford Edge SEL 135,000 miles - disc brakes all around Current issue - brakes go all the way to floor and go back and forth from feeling right to going back to the floor. Unsafe to drive. Background on the brake issue... Took car to mechanic in late Aug 2018 to have water pump replaced. Also had them replace timing belt as they were already in there. To get this done they dropped the motor. See photo. Picked up car and brakes felt odd on way home, and mechanic would not return calls. Went back and they said they never touched brakes so I never went back as felt they could not be trusted. This was not simply walking away... we argued for weeks and I could not go on and on and on. $1500.00 Had car diagnosed by nationwide auto shop as bad Brake Booster. Cost to diagnose--- $75.00. Bid to replace - $840.00. Too expensive. Bought NEW brake booster (OEM) at local nationwide parts shop and found another mechanic shop - Part $150 and labor $140 = $290.00 6 hours later, got call saying car was done. Do not know if it took one hour or 6 but who cares. Said it was done. Car was "fixed" but not feeling fixed. Went back in before leaving parking lot. They took in for another 2 hours then said it was fixed. It was better, but not quite perfect. Called them on the way home and they said it would get better. Drove it 4 miles home. Wife drove it the next morning and called me shortly after leaving saying car was dragging... feeling like she could not fully accelerate. Drove to her and gave her my truck and proceeded to drive Edge home. On way home, car feels like it is being held back and felt it was the brakes not fully releasing. Guy pulls up next to me and says car is on fire. See pic after putting it out with a fire extinguisher. You can still see a small flame. Called insurance and auto repair business who put in the booster. Had car towed back to place that put in the booster. Insurance adjuster says it was faulty installation so no coverage for fire to car but booster installer says they did it right so good luck.Again, a two week fight back and forth. Had car towed to them and towed again to get it home... $190.00 in towing fees. Decided to replace everything on our own. Over $1100.00 in parts. Short brake lines - pads - rotors - calibers -new brake booster - fully drained all brake fluid and put in new fluid. Bled brakes and master cylinder. Brakes tight then mushy then tight then mushy then feeling like they would not loosen up. Replaced master cylinder and ABS/proportioning valve These were not new parts (everything else is new). Found these at reputable local used car parts. Felt confident in the parts as the car they came off was a bad transmission and car was only there a week. Same make model and year. Perfect match. $130 for used parts. Bled all brakes and everything again... Same issue. Replaced brake booster vacuum hose with new hose from Ford and put hose clamps on all vacuum hoses. $28.00 for the hose and $10 for the hose clamps. Brakes feel tight then goes to the floor. Does not feel like brakes are totally releasing causing drag. No hissing sound. No leaks. No damage from the fire on ANY part under the car. Everything that looked overheated or damaged was replaced and all damage was really just on the wheel brake sections, nothing deep into the car at all.It was the front passenger side that overheated and was on fire. Over $3200 in the car over the last 4 months and still not fixed. Car starts and sounds great. Engine is strong and sounds like new. Car shifts quietly. Share me some wisdom... tell me someone has been there for this brake issue. I am aware of Fords booster recalls on 2010 and above. Mine does not fit any recall. I want to fix this myself as the funds are dried up and I have no trust in car shops although I am sure there are many that are excellent. New hard lines next? Fuses? Was there a bad new booster? Tell me some tests to run and I will run them. Talk to me Obi-Wan Fordobi I know there will be thoughts on why not go after the repair people... it is happening in small claims court but I still need the car running.
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