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Sledwrecker

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About Sledwrecker

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  1. Sledwrecker

    Dealer PTU response.. never changed fluid?

    I did mine a couple days ago. I have a 2018 Titanium and it DID have a drain plug. It was a bit of a pain to get to so make sure the exhaust isn't hot as you will be working around it. It takes a 3/8 ratchet wrench to get the fill plug out and you can only do barely 1/8th turns so it takes a while to get until it will spin freely by hand. The drain plug was a 1/4" allen key (I used an allen wrench.) Some advise. Wrap the exhaust pipe area where the fluid will drain down with aluminum foil before you pull the plugs. Cover a large enough area that will keep the oil draining out from getting onto the pipes and flanges. This first time I just drained it down onto the pipes and even after extensive cleaning with brake cleaner it still took two days of commuting before the nasty smell of burning gear oil dissipated. All in all... was a pretty simple job with the right tools and a $8 pump from the local auto parts store. I used mobil-1 full synthetic 75w140 and today my Amsoil Severe Gear 75w140 showed up. Next oil change I will swap out the mobile 1 because it should only take about 15 minutes to service the PTU since I understand how to do it now. There's a very good video on the PTU fluid change requirement from a ford tech on youtube. He explains why NOT to listen to the dealers recommendation. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sS9JPaf1MDg
  2. I recently bought a 2018 titanium with the halogen projectors and have been on a quest to find the best LED drop in kit to improve my nighttime driving experience. I live in the mountains and drive frequently at night. We have a lot of wildlife in our area so lighting and safety is crucial. I tried 4 different kits from amazon, even my tried and true Beamtech’s but because the edge has a halogen projector nothing - even the highest rated LEDs met the bar. After digging a ton on YouTube I stumbled across these new generation 360 degree LED bulbs. Specifically the Audew 360 H11. I was nearly going to pull the trigger on HR lightings coveted GTR ultra 2’s which retail for $199 but just couldn’t stomach the price tag knowing that I had already tried 4 other sets of similarly designed double sided LEDs. I got my Audew H11’s for. $43.99 on Amazon with two day shipping. I was also looking at the Light Moses brand but couldn’t find any real world YouTube videos of them in action. There are many videos of the Audew’s in projectors (check YouTube.) Hopefully this helps those struggling with a better lighting solution without shelling out big bucks for a factory HID upgrade. BTW, I ultimately decided against doing aftermarket HIDs as I still have them in my F350 and one of my snowmobiles. I have replaced ballasts twice in my truck and a compete harness once in my snowmobile which melted down 20 miles from the truck at dusk (that was a fun ride out..). So I wanted LEDs as I ran them the last 4 years in my previous car without any issues (did have one burn out at around three years.) Here are some photos.. blurry but you can see how well these work and there is a nice clean cutoff.
  3. Hi Omar, no relay used but I’ll likely order one next. They are pretty inexpensive and should help protect the factory wiring during HID startup.
  4. A quick final follow-up to this thread. I ended up using a factory ground location behind the drivers side rear cargo area inside quarter panel. It's in the same location the factory sony amp is grounded to. I did not use the exact same ground as the sony amp, there was a second hole already pre-drilled in the metal I sanded down and used a bolt and nut to ground to. When testing this location I got a resistance value of .003 which was almost as good as testing directly to the negative battery ground under the hood. It's actually very easy to get to this location. 1. Using a trim removal tool pop the two plastic rivets out of the trunk plastic scuff trim where the latch is on the bumper. 2. Gently pull out and up to remove the trim piece. 3. Next pull back the weather stripping running around the rear bumper and the drivers side up to the top of the panel. once the weather stripping is pulled back you will have a gap between the panel and the body. 4. Firmly grasp the panel and pull it straight and firm towards the inside of the car (straight away from the body.) It's held in with multiple clips only, no screws. I didn't bother pulling it off completely.. I pulled it away about 1 foot in the rear to give me enough room to work behind it. 5. Your ground locations are behind a small area of fireproof insulation material. 6. I removed the two plastic rivets holding the material in place to get clear access to the ground holes. You will clearly see where the factory grounds are at once you move the insulation. 7. Sand your ground spot well then reverse steps to close everything back up.
  5. I have a 2018 Edge Titanium with the 3.5L v6. The car has about 37k miles and is completely stock with the exception of a K&N drop in replacement air filter. While idling I can hear a hissing noise which sounds reminiscent of a vacuum leak however the vehicle is running / idling perfectly with zero performance or drivability issues. Is this normal for this motor to have this sound? I don't notice it as much with the hood closed but with it open it's very noticeable. I've done a thorough visual inspection and don't see any issues. I also haven't been able to isolate exactly where the noise is coming from but it seems to be on the side of the motor with the transmission (drivers side.)
  6. Forgive me if this is buried in the forum somewhere.. I've been reading for a couple hours and haven't found any posts with this same issue on a 2nd gen Edge Titanium. Case: 2018 Ford Edge Titanium with stock halogen H11 / 9005 halogen projector housings. When installing Xentec 35w HID kit w/o harness (plug-n-play) HIDs shut off immediately when vehicle is running. Details: Rough install of a Amazon Xentec 35w plug-n-play HID kit (no hardness) or canbus / cancelers. When the vehicle is off but ignition is in the on position the HIDs work perfectly. When you start the car (engine running) they shut off. You can turn the headlight switch off then on again and the HIDs come on for about 1/2 a second then shut off again. I did spend about two hours last night using forscan to change numerous values outlined in the forscan forums for a factory HID headlight swap but this made no difference to my particular issue. Disabling the DLRs through the dash's on screen menu made no change in behavior. Disabling DLRs with forscan made no difference either. I'm thinking it could possibly be canbus and I need cancelers or maybe with this particular model edge requires an HID relay harness?
  7. Definitely grounding to the seat brackets or bolts won’t work. Just did a DMM test and resistance is .27. For comparison resistance directly to a factory ground is .02. Any advice on a good ground would be appreciated. I’m reluctant to drill into the floor pan as it’s unclear what’s underneath. If there’s a factory ground behind one of the rear inner quarter panels please advise how to remove them safely without breaking anything.
  8. Sledwrecker

    Aftermarket amp dash wiring 2018 edge

    Oh also, I was able to run the pac harness out the passenger side of the console into the side of the glovebox. The PAC itself now is easily serviced by opening the glovebox, pushing up on the tabs at the top of the glovebox to release it and then releasing the glovebox arm. The glovebox drops open and you have full access behind it. This was also the easiest way to run the rca wires coming up the passenger side foot Pilar and into the glovebox area.
  9. Sledwrecker

    Aftermarket amp dash wiring 2018 edge

    Just following up on this I ended up going with the PAC AmpPro AP4-FD21 integration system. It's expensive but there's no cutting of any wires. I got mine on ebay new for $200. https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amppro-amplifier-interfaces/ap4-fd21 A couple things to note: - The remote on wire stays on until the vehicle goes to sleep meaning your AMP will stay on for about 5 minutes after you exit the vehicle and lock the doors. - The PAC unit itself also stays on until the car goes to sleep. It just has a single red LED that stays illuminated until the car sleeps. - If you are using just the subwoofer out and NOT the front or rear pre-amp outputs (keeping factory setup and just installing an amp and subwoofer) you do not need to adjust any of the chime or EQ settings on the PAC. Those settings are only for using an aftermarket 4 channel amp to drive mids and highs. - The Bass knob that comes with the PAC only adjusts the pre-out voltage for the subwoofer channel. I called PAC and they told me to run with this at 100% (full clockwise position) and use the bass knob on my amp to control the amplifier output. Last thing. PAC's website says this is for 2015 - 2017 but I called them and we verified all the wiring is the same for 2018. He said they just had not verified it in a 2018 but it will work. I haven't had any comparability issues with it in my 2018 Titanium. Plug-n-play.
  10. Sledwrecker

    Audio build in 2019 Edge St

    Where is your ground location in the rear cargo area? Any pics?
  11. Can someone advise a good ground location in the rear cargo area to ground a 500w rms amplifier. Using 6ga copper wire high quality. I drilled a hole in one of the rear seat brackets and affixed there but I don’t think this is suitable as I’m troubleshooting low output and have isolated the issue to either a bad ground or pre amp voltage. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. 2018 edge titanium with pac ad4-fd21 module for pre outs on Sony premium sound system.
  12. I am installing an aftermarket subwoofer setup in my 2018 Ford edge. I’m using a pack media converter with the Sony system the model is AP4- FD 21 which allows integration with the Sony amp and it’s mounted behind the CD player portion of the infotainment system in the dash. The issue I’m facing is I can’t find a path to run the RCA and remote wire through the dash to the floorboards the pathways are too tight to get the RCA connectors to fit through with a fishing hook / metal coat hanger. Does anyone recommend and approach to easily feed the wires through the dash? I’m running rca and remote wire on passenger side and the power wire on the drivers. thanks!
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