mdjbhouse

ok I will spend some time making sure the latch operates freely as best as can. No proximity sensors on this year. I can see where it could also be a wiring short as I'm pretty sure the drivers side rear door has not even been opened and the 'door ajar issue' comes back. I'll take it from here lads! Thanks for the replies.

I've seen the 'break the tab' solution also, just seems a bit I dunno severe, but as you say less annoying than random alarms.

Door is definitely closed. The door ajar issue is pretty intermittent. Stays on for a while, can't seem to get rid of it and then just today it is gone again. I did spray it with some electrical contact cleaner some time ago but didn't seem to make much difference. I also live in a cold climate so I have been waiting for some better weather to look at it and a nice say yesterday is now snow today. The weird part is the alarm going off randomly, unless that is how it's supposed to work if the interior lights stay on for a certain duration like 3:00 am the other night, then again this morning. I parked it in the garage at lunch and 'door ajar' was gone and interior lights were off. So related to a lubricant. I do have some white silicon grease in a spray can. Is that a good grease option?

Not sure where to post this exactly so here goes. Having an intermittent door ajar issue and last night the alarm goes off at 3:00 am and my dome lights won't go off so time to get serious about addressing this. I can find a few suggestions online regarding spraying the door latch etc. but then the last one I found related to an F150 said to check the wiring harness which I think makes sense and I plan on doing. I was also looking for a replacement wiring harness as an alternative to maybe soldering wires assuming I can even figure out which ones might be broken but not much luck finding that part # and I know in the past the members here have been good at sharing info like that. Any suggestions on what fixes work here I am also open to hearing about.

Yah I talked to a shop today and they estimated about that so I will just let the pros do it after all since AC seems a bit more than I want to get involved in. Good point on the possibility of package policy coverage.

Hey thanks so much for all this detail Haz - very much appreciated. I will definitely start by making a few calls tomorrow to see if I can get an estimate on what having a shop do the repair might cost me and then that will help guide my decision.

ahhh, by searching for radiator on the forum I did see a post where someone hit a deer and similar situation with the suggestion of 'Yes, the ac condenser is in front of the rad and likely broken.' So I think that will help narrow down what I am looking for. Based on the video I saw I will assume it might still involve removing the rad - guess we'll see.

2013 SEL and ac stopped working. A friend said we can try and top up the freon as a start but when we tried that we noticed it started to hiss out from the front. Turns out when we heard that loud bang some time ago it looks like a rock went through the grill and damaged the rad. He said it's like a secondary rad? I found a video on changing out the main rad and I think I can see what is the rad I am interested in in front of it but he doesn't mention it (not that he should I guess). Just wondering if there in fact a secondary rad for ac and if it would be the same kind of steps involved to get to it as in the repair video to remove the main rad? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inpTHMy758M

Yah I poked around his videos earlier but other than a 'ghost filter' video didn't see what I was looking for. Thanks though, maybe it is there somewhere... Update: Just wanted to say with the help of a friend, managed to change mine on a 2013 yesterday but it was not easy. Easy if you have it up on a hoist I'm sure but lying on your back under jack stands and trying to get the banjo bolt in was a nightmare and the other side ain't no picnic either. If you slide under from the front head first, the banjo bolt is just past the stabilizer bar on the drivers side and the line loops up behind the engine and then back down to the pump on the passenger side. Maybe that will help someone visualize how it all connects. We also took the battery out to get access to the bracket up top (just what we did). Read more

Update: Other than a a couple crappy YouTube videos not seeing much out there... Maybe time to look for a repair manual.

Thanks. It very well could be a cabling issue but I think if I am in there taking at all apart I might as well just buy a replacement camera as this vehicle is close to 10 years old.

Not sure if it's cool to hijack someone's else's thread but figured rather than create 'another backup camera post' I would add what I am getting. Most of the posts I have found are quite a few years old so maybe there is more knowledge available now? Just asking before I try an amazon replacement from china. This is what I get from Forscan: ===APIM DTC C1001:01-68=== Code: C1001 - Vision System Camera Additional Fault Symptom: - General Electrical Failure Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC - Test not complete Module: Accessory Protocol Interface Module ===END APIM DTC C1001:01-68=== I'm also getting some ABS errors but I assume that is unrelated.

Hey everyone, 2013 Edge SEL AWD and looks like I need to replace the power steering pressure hose so just looking for any pdf's or videos on it? I found a post with a link to a '2010 Edge Power Steering Pump to Steering Gear Pressure Line' so I was hoping for something similar.