edkene

So - take it for what it is worth (faceless person on the interwebz) - but I would recommend reaching out to Ford Customer Service yourself. I found out that a dealership has essentially two prices - the customer price and then the price that corporate Ford pays to get work done. When I got the customer quote from the dealership to do my long block it was ~$6800. When I called and talked to Ford and got them to pay for a large chunk the price went down to around $5300 total (if I remember correctly). So, what that told me is the dealership doesn’t make as much money off of having corporate Ford pay vice having a regular customer pay. Additionally, when I first took it in and found out there was the problem, the service rep told me Ford wouldn’t do anything, etc. that turned out to not be the case when I called Ford myself.

Hey 2015, I was 100% out of warranty. I was at 64,000 miles and 5 years and two months of ownership (warranty is 60,000 miles or 5 years). Having 156k miles may be a bit more difficult since you are well past the 60k mark - I’m not sure. Never hurts to give Ford a call, however. The largest issue you’re g oing to run into is that Ford will want you to have taken it to a Ford dealership. When I called the Ford customer service people they asked which Ford dealership it was at so they could call the service rep. So you’ll have to get an appointment at a Ford dealership and be willing to leave the vehicle with them at least overnight so they can do the leak down test (they pressurize the coolant system, leave it for a few hours, then come back and check to see if the pressure has gone down. If it has they then pull the spark plugs and look in the cylinders for water intrusion). Once they have verified that is indeed the issue then you can start the process rolling with Ford. As an additional note, to anyone who has this problem, be careful with the dealership. When I was told my vehicle was complete and I went to pick it up they tried to charge me an extra ~$550 for “one time use parts.” They said the parts were parts that could not be re-used and had to be replaced when they did the engine. They told me that Ford wasn’t going to pay for them and so I would have to. I refused and said that wasn’t part of the deal with Ford. Finally Ford corporate decided to pay for the extra amount since we (corporate Ford) and I had an agreement in writing as to what my portion of the cost would be. When the stealership dealership was trying to get me to pay the extra amount I kept asking questions about what exactly all the parts were for, and the service rep kept giving me the runaround. I had a suspicion that the extra parts were not factored into the initial price they gave to Ford for repairing the vehicle, and I believe I am right. After I got the vehicle back with the itemized receipt, I went and looked at all of the parts the service rep told me were “one time use parts.” I cross referenced those to the Technical Service Bulletin regarding this engine issue, and all of those parts were listed in the TSB as items that would need to be replaced as part of the repair for this issue. What this told me is that my suspicion was correct - the dealership did not quote those extra parts to Ford. I’m not sure if they guy forgot and then was trying to cover his butt by getting me to pay for the extra parts, or if they were trying to make some extra money due to the additional markup they would get by selling the parts to me vice Ford. Either way, I found the situation extremely shady. One last thing 2015 - when talking to Ford get them to commit to paying for your rental car (if they offer to help). Ford reimbursed me for the cost of my rental vehicle while my vehicle was being repaired. They ended up sending me a prepaid visa gift card for the amount of the total cost of the rental.

Sorry for the delay in an update but wanted to get everything worked out with Ford first. Took the vehicle in last week and they were backed up on getting to the vehicle - seems the local dealership has been over-booking their techs. First day didn’t get to it, finally got to it the second day. They took a look and suspected a coolant intrusion problem so pressurized the coolant system and left it overnight. The next morning they pulled the plugs (this is the method outlined by the TSB), looked for water intrusion and what do you know, I’ve got a problem. They give me a call and say it isn’t under warranty and it’ll be close to $7k to fix. I then called Ford customer service and explained the issue. Bunch of back and forth later and I’m paying less than 25% of the quoted amount and Ford is covering the rest (thank you for the “latent defect” phrase). Interesting thing I learned - the amount I’m paying and the amount Ford is paying (combined) is less than the quoted amount from the dealership. When I asked the dealership about the discrepancy I was told that my initial quote was the “customer amount” and the new amount that is being paid is the “warranty amount.” I now have the parts on order and will be awaiting the repair. When dealing with Ford they said they would reimburse me for my rental vehicle cost, which is a nice and unexpected addition. On an extra note, when I first took the vehicle in to the dealership I asked if they were seeing a lot of these engines with this issue - the service adviser said that he has been seeing an awful lot of them lately. When I asked what people who are out of warranty have been doing he replied that they have normally been trading them in. I can’t imagine the hit people are taking by trading in a vehicle with a useless engine.

1004 - I do not have the extended warranty, and since I’m at 64k miles and over 5 years since I bought it (Nov 2016) this will be *fun* I am still planning on doing a bit more troubleshooting tonight (pulling plugs, swapping around the coils) to ensure that isn’t the issue, but based on the symptoms I’m leaning towards the water intrusion. Hopefully not the case though… I do have an appt at the dealership to have them check it out as well. We’ll see what happens

Thanks 1004 - I’m planning to pull plugs this afternoon. As for the engine manufacturing location, it says Cleveland Engine Plant manufactured on 14 June 2016. looked up the TSB - this could really suck if engine coolant intrusion is the issue.

Znow, thanks for the info. I’ll take a look at the valve cover and post a pic - family has been in town and haven’t had a chance to do anything in the past couple of days. I’ll also make sure to keep a closer eye on the coolant level. One thing that I have found is that the engine actually does better when it is cold - it isn’t until after it has warmed over that the misfires occur. From what I’ve been able to read and a couple of mechanics I’ve talked to this could be a symptom of a bad ignition coil - after they warm up they can start having issues but be fine when cold. I’m going to troubleshoot some more tomorrow and see if that is the case. Either way though I’m going to replace the spark plugs since I’ll pull #1 to see how it looks anyway.

Hello All, First off, I have a 2016 Ford Edge 2.0L Ecoboost SE with 63,XXX miles on it. I am the original owner. Looking for a bit of help. A while back I started experiencing a rough idle immediately after filling up my fuel tank (allowed the handle to pop; never topped it off). Shortly afterward I started having rough starts in the morning when it got cold and then it popped a CEL. I pulled the code and it was a P0301, Cylinder 1 Misfire. I did some research and came across people who were reporting that the issues with rough idle immediately after a filling up a tank were typically caused by a bad Fuel Vapor Separator/Valve (part number F2GZ-9D289-A, if anyone ever needs it). I replaced it (a bit of a pain...story of another time) and I reset the ECU (disconnected the battery and stepped on the brake for about 10-15 seconds). Things were better for about a day, and then I got the rough idle while cold and it popped the P0301 again. In my research I noticed a couple of people mentioned that replacing the Fuel Vapor Separator/Valve didn't always do it and that you needed to replace the Fuel Vapor Solenoid (part number 9U5Z-9F945C if anyone needs it). I got the part and replaced it (again, a bit more of a pain than I expected - story of my life). Again, I reset the ECU after replacing the unit. The vehicle started and ran fine immediately after replacing it and the next morning when it was cold. When I started it up after work I got the rough idle again and popped the same code (P0301). Question for everyone: what am I missing? This thing has all the hallmarks of a bad EGR valve (slight smell of gas, poor gas mileage, rough idle at start) but as far as I can tell these vehicles don't have it. When I look at the shop manual for the vehicle it gives the following for reasons for a P0301 code: Ignition System Fuel Injector 1 Running out of Fuel EVAP Purge Valve Fuel Pressure Evaporative Emission System Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system Base engine misfire monitor neutral profile correction has not been relearned since the last mechanical repair The full list of issues are: Rough Idle When starting Slight Smell of fuel No rough idle for the first start or two after resetting the ECU Changed out the Fuel Vapor Valve Changed out the Fuel Vapor Valve Solenoid Poor fuel economy After start up and the engine has been running for 10-15 seconds, no more rough idle. Can normally get past it by having the engine rev for 3-5 seconds Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.