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Hello, I am going to be replacing my front 2010 ford edge sport shocks with OEM motorcraft shocks and decided to lower the car while I'm there.

I will be replacing all 4 coil springs with godspeed lowering springs

A few questions-

Is there anything I need to know? Will the car ride better, worse, or the same? Will the shocks wear our sooner? Will the lowering springs ruin my alignment? What can go wrong here? Am I better off replacing all four shocks with bilsteins and keeping OEM springs? I'm looking for a handling improvement and the looks are just what come with lowering springs. I do not want to buy them if it'll ruin my ride quality or handling. I am ok with more stiffness.

Also, will this video serve as a guide on how to replace the rear springs?

I've heard the old focus share the same rear suspension as the 1st gen edge, and it looks similar, so I assume this method will work on my car as well.

im wondering too, i need new shocks and im considering going with the B6s. but it would be $477 all around, so i wanna know if its worth it or if it's just better to go OEM and throw on lowering springs

On 4/7/2023 at 12:26 PM, sid660raptor said:

I need that tool are you will to loan it 2me if your near west Michigan??? I'll pay to use it

Unfortunately I do not have it yet & I do not live in Michigan

I purchased a (cheap) intake kit off of amazon, coming in around $85 after shipping. The kit is cheap, although well made. The MAF fits perfectly, the hoses fit perfectly, the piping is all metal, there was no issue getting things to fit although I am a bit concerned about how close the filter is to the headlight. There was no drop in overall performance, although I can definitely tell that there is a bit less power/torque at the very low rpm range and higher in the mid-range, but that could be just me. The car definitely seems to want to accelerate when I get on the gas, vs before, I would have to give it a little bit of a deeper stab to get it to start moving. That could also just be better throttle response or placebo. Overall, the performance gains aren't anything crazy. So don't buy if you're looking purely for performance. As for gas mileage, it's mixed. I got 16.9 before installing, and 16.5 now. However, now, I tend to accelerate a little quicker just to hear the intake. The new result is also kind of skewed, because during the beginning of the measurement I let the car idle a LOT as I was trying to find the source of a ticking noise in my engine. So, it may or may not be unchanged, but I definitely think there was some gains in mpg. Now, I wouldn't think that's from a new intake itself. I tend to drive the car a bit slower now, like a grandma, and only drive it fast occasionally (once a week maybe, if even that, occasionally a few times a week). Part of this is wanting to keep a 146k mile engine healthy, save money on gas, and because I was extremely paranoid after installing the intake. So, do not buy if you are expecting mpg gains. At least, not if your expecting big ones. You MIGHT see a slight increase. But I seriously doubt it. This is a very debated topic and for me personally the only reason it has changed is because of my driving habits. I did disconnect the battery, and clean the throttle body when installing.

First start: Car would not turn over

Second: Car did not turn over again

Third: car turned over, and stalled

Fourth: car turned over, ran roughly, very high idle, eventually stabilized

Car made a light knocking noise at the very beginning of test drive, ran oddly and did not accelerate as I'd hoped. Very sluggish. But after about 50-100 miles of driving with the intake, the car runs great. Maybe it didn't improve acceleration, or mpg, but it definitely wants to go when I step on the gas, and it sounds very VERY nice. I attached an image of the kit and I'll link a youtube video of how the car sounds.

Other plans for the car:

- LED Headlights

- Lowering Springs

- B6 Bilstein Shocks

- Black grille (maybe)

- Tint front windows back to 5%

- Gibson cat-back exhaust

- (maybe) a tune/tuner

The car is a fun to drive daily, and not much else. I most likely would not even try to make it into a project car, the transaxle is too weak to boost the car (or so I've heard) especially at 146,000 miles. But it is a possibility, you don't see one of these with a twin turbo and built powertrain everyday.

7 hours ago, DILLARD000 said:

LucasTransmissionFix basicly is a viscocity additive; silightly thickens the ATF which helps transmission shift smoother\quicker.

Click here for YouTube test of LTF; have seen several of this guys product reviews, seems honest enough.

It's a judgement call; if the new ATF & BatteryReset has fixed problem to your satisfaction, I'd probably not use the Lucas; easy enough to add later.

No, don't reset the Battery every time; if the shift points are where you like them, leave it alone.

Ok good to know. I’m gonna go do my first drain and fill and disconnect the battery then take it on a test drive. If any slipping occurs with new fluid I will try the transmission fix

9 hours ago, DILLARD000 said:

Your plan sounds reasonable; I would drain+refill at least 4 times to get rid of that old brown ATF.

Draining+filling Tranny on these is easy+quick; definitely should be done every 4yrs\33kMiles.

Recommend using a premium FullSynthetic MerconV compatible ATF like AmsOil# SSMVS.ATF1g.

Consider using 1qt of Lucas Transmission Fix.

Also consider disconnecting battery for 15min, then reconnecting & driving conservatively to let PCM relearn tranny shift points.

 

thank you, i will do so

i use full synthetic, expensive but worth it to me. what does the transmission fix do?

i also did disconnect the battery when installing a new intake the other day. no slipping since then, should i still do it each time i drain & fill?

13 hours ago, 1004ron said:

https://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/30312-8f35-fluid-change-tips/?tab=comments#comment-223013

i appreciate it but i havent really been able to find a clear answer. i have the '10 with a dipstick.

i think i am just going to drain and fill sometime next week, give it a few months and repeat until i've exchanged all the fluid. but i wont do it all at once, maybe like a month in between. thats all im getting from these threads. fluid is pretty brown, idk about the smell. also to the mod who moved my post i appreciate it, i didnt find this thread when searchin lol but its very helpful

it is slipping ocasionally so i do not wanna risk making it worse by exchanging all 12qt of fluid in one day. this slipping is only when its cold and it's usually just once per drive. ive never had it happen more than once. im hoping its nothing worse than that...

how should i go about doing this

A. drain and fill once, and leave it (so i drain like 5qt with a warm trans, then fill with 5 qt) and just do this each 30k miles

B. drain out as much as i can, fill the amount that was drained (so i drain 5qt, fill 5qt), and drive the car to warm the trans up and repeat until ive drained out ~12qt

ive seen mixed opinions. this is a car with 146k miles and i have NO clue when the trans fluid was last changed, but it's brown now and definitely needs changing. but besides that, is there another way i should go about doing this?

i put a performance air intake on because it's a good price and sounds great.

my car didnt start after, then started and stalled, then ran rough and finally settled. ran like crap until i drove it for a bit, then it was fine. mpg went from 16.9 to 18.7, but i cant say for sure if its changed anything yet.

9 hours ago, DILLARD000 said:

No, the CamHoldingJig kit comes with 2 jigs, one for each of the DualOverHeadCams, left & right, so only one jig kit needed.

Good luck & keep us updated on your progress & any questions as you go.

Got it. Thank you. This job is kind of a while away but this is all very helpful. Will be sure to update when doing the job.

On 11/14/2022 at 6:02 AM, DILLARD000 said:

Cloyes instructional videos note Holding Jigs, pic below, are NOT required,

but I felt need for them to insure CamShafts did NOT move during this work over several days.

I replaced all Timing components excepting the 2 larger CamGears+Bolts; those were left in place.

List above is NOT all inclusive of the various other items+supplies replaced or used.

 

Thank you!!! I'm assuming I need 2 of those tools. Makes me feel a lot better about doing the job, thank you.

15 hours ago, DILLARD000 said:

Depending on season\climate (freezing weather needs a heated garage to park vehicle),

at over 140kMiles, so not to "shock" the internal Pump seals,  I would

slowly replace old BlueCoolant by Draining+Flushing+Refilling with DistilledWater over several weeks,

then again slowly Drain+Flush+Refill the DistilledWater with new 50+50% Gold\Yellow Coolant,

mixing a little KSeal with the new Coolant as it's added.

Transverse V6~3.5L\3.7L~DOHC internal Coolant\WaterPump has basicly 4 modes of failure:

~ Pump FlangeCoolantSeal fails, Coolant leaks out SeepHole down front of Block behind Alternator.

~ Pump FlangeOilSeal fails, Oil leaks out SeepHole down front of Block behind Alternator.

~ Pump PulleySeal+Bearing fails, Coolant leaks into OilPan creating a "MilkShake"; engine is destroyed if run in this condition for any significant time\distance.

~ Pump OEPlasticImpeller slowly disintegrates, flow & CoolingCapacity slowly decline, leading to overheating.

In any of these cases; Pump must be replaced; new Timing components & 120% Melling OilPump upgrade recommended while there.

This work requires removing TimingCover+Components; can be done with engine in vehicle, easier if engine is removed.

If removing engine & vehicle is AWD, consider replacing PowerTransferUnit\PTU also; likely has never had Oil changed, unless you did that.

Engine with TimingCover removed shown below, before removing original factory TimingParts+WaterPump+OilPump;

CoolantPump is behind center ChainPulley; OilPump is behind lower CrankShaft ChainPulley.

OE WaterPump+PlasticImpeller, compared to AfterMarket WaterPump+MetalImpeller, also shown below.

Engine with TimingCover+TimingParts+WaterPump+OilPump removed, bottom pic below.

That is also very helpful. One last question, is the engine interference or not? I have no problem doing this job aside from timing. If I get timing off I want to be sure I can fix it and not blow my engine up.

forgot to say i replaced the mirror with a junkyard mirror, mine broke

17 hours ago, DILLARD000 said:

Coolant capacity for this 2008 V6~3.5L~DOHC is ~12q84=12L14; maybe half comes out in a simple Radiator drain; believe your 2010 is similar.

Drain the Radiator, refill the system with DistilledWater, drive for 15~30min to flush the system,

keep draining+refilling with distilled water & flushing untill all the unknown "blue" stuff is gone.
Coolant should be Flushed+Renewed+Burped along with replacing the ThermoStat at 3Year\33kMile intervals.
Inspect other Coolant system components: Hoses\HeatValve\Fans+Controller\Belts... replace when required.
The 2008 OwnersGuide Specs  wss-m97b51-a1 for Coolant=AntiFreeze is Gold or Yellow color FordMotorCraft vc-7dil;
the Gold\Yellow formulas have additional CorrosionInhibitors+Lubricants that are beneficial & preferred.
Products below satisfy these Specs; carefully compare SafetyDataSheet Ingredients for any other Coolant.
These are HybridOrganicAcidTech\HOAT formulations, do not contain any 2EthylHexAcid\2EHA & may be mixed;
other Coolants containing 2EHA may damage seals in Ford V6~3.5L~DOHC engines & should NOT be used\mixed.
Only use these or equal Gold\Yellow Coolants; do NOT use\mix Blue\DarkGreen\LiteGreen\Orange\Pink\Red...

 

Thank you, this is pretty helpful. And as far as extending life of the OEM water pump, any tips? I might just replace mine so I do not have to worry about it

the water pump and the engine mounts...

I have yet to change the coolant on my car. Got it at 126k miles, now at 146k. I know I have time before i hit 30k miles, but i dont know when/if this coolant was changed. It smells like fish and it's blue, so definitely not factory, but just for my own reassurance i would like to do this. Also good to prevent premature water pump failure I heard

How would I go about doing this? Just drain and refill? Drain and run water through the system until just distilled water drains and nothing else? Is there a special fluid of some sort I need to flush the system? And last,what type of coolant should I use?

removed the "snorkel" looking thing from the right side very bottom of my airbox. entirely different sound

11 hours ago, DILLARD000 said:

FYI, rodents love to nest in these AirFilter boxes, especially in fall & early winter;

a piece of window screen attached across these openings can help prevent that.

that’s also good to know. However my car is stored in a garage and it’s driven everyday, but I’ll definitely keep it in mind it if I notice or suspect any problems.

46 minutes ago, DILLARD000 said:

I call it the AirFilterBox LeftSide IntakeTube, not sure of the official factory name?

It can be removed; been running my 2008 3.5L several years now without it.

Believe it's intended to quiet the air flow a bit & provide slightly cooler air from the fender,

but I've not noticed a significant difference.

thanks, how would you go about removing it? Just wanna see if it does anything 

2010 ford edge sport fwd, is the transmission supposed to be this hesitant to downshift?

i understand it's known for that, but not to this extreme. earlier today i was trying to get on the highway, and i needed to speed up, so i pushed down on the gas quite a bit. the car just stayed in the same gear, and let the revs climb to 3k. and i was so confused, i thought something broke. so i stepped on the gas some more, but not all the way, and the damn thing downshifts instantly and starts screaming with the revs nearly at 6k. maybe the revs just got too high for it to downshift in that moment, and thats why it hesitated, but im a bit worried.

transmission fluid is a light brown with only the slightest tint of pink, thinking of changing it soon, should i? how much fluid would i need? car is at 144k miles as well

I know what the thing in blue does, but not the red. Don't know either of their names. Can thing in red be removed?

13 hours ago, Tracylpatt said:

I have a 2013 Ford Edge. All of the brake pads and rotors replaced 2 months ago. About 2 weeks ago, when backing up, my car squeals something fierce from the rear. After researching, I am going to add low frequency noise dampers on the rear calipers. I ordered them from RockAuto.com shipped for about $32.00. Carlson part number H5708. They are expected to arrive this Wednesday. I should have them installed Thursday morning and will let you know whether the low frequency noise dampers were helpful or not.

Please do let me know, I was looking into those as well

17 hours ago, Xtra said:

They work but nothing like a dual clutch transmission does. The Sport and ST transmissions can be programmed to give different shift feel from hard to butter smooth. I use mine on occasion to short shift on the street to keep out of high RPM when doing a jack rabbit start to 50mph or so. I try to shift at peak torque not peak HP sometimes. 

Would be cool if paddle shifters could be installed on a car that did not come with them. Maybe there’s a way, but it wouldn’t be worth it

12 hours ago, enigma-2 said:

I'd be concerned about how much software programming changes you'd have to do to the TCM when introducing a different transmission. Where would you even get the necessary information?

A lot for sure, definitely not worth it. I don't think you can even get that info too

On 10/14/2022 at 10:33 PM, Xtra said:

The 2016 to 2018 Sport and I think even the 2015 Sport as well all have 6 speed trans with paddle shifters. The 2019 to 2022 ST all have paddle shifters and I think 8 speed transmissions. I would double check before buying to confirm. 

Are they good? I've heard mixed opinions on them, but the new ford edges look SO god damn nice