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Hello, I am going to be replacing my front 2010 ford edge sport shocks with OEM motorcraft shocks and decided to lower the car while I'm there. I will be replacing all 4 coil springs with godspeed lowering springs A few questions- Is there anything I need to know? Will the car ride better, worse, or the same? Will the shocks wear our sooner? Will the lowering springs ruin my alignment? What can go wrong here? Am I better off replacing all four shocks with bilsteins and keeping OEM springs? I'm looking for a handling improvement and the looks are just what come with lowering springs. I do not want to buy them if it'll ruin my ride quality or handling. I am ok with more stiffness. Also, will this video serve as a guide on how to replace the rear springs? I've heard the old focus share the same rear suspension as the 1st gen edge, and it looks similar, so I assume this method will work on my car as well.

im wondering too, i need new shocks and im considering going with the B6s. but it would be $477 all around, so i wanna know if its worth it or if it's just better to go OEM and throw on lowering springs

Unfortunately I do not have it yet & I do not live in Michigan

I purchased a (cheap) intake kit off of amazon, coming in around $85 after shipping. The kit is cheap, although well made. The MAF fits perfectly, the hoses fit perfectly, the piping is all metal, there was no issue getting things to fit although I am a bit concerned about how close the filter is to the headlight. There was no drop in overall performance, although I can definitely tell that there is a bit less power/torque at the very low rpm range and higher in the mid-range, but that could be just me. The car definitely seems to want to accelerate when I get on the gas, vs before, I would have to give it a little bit of a deeper stab to get it to start moving. That could also just be better throttle response or placebo. Overall, the performance gains aren't anything crazy. So don't buy if you're looking purely for performance. As for gas mileage, it's mixed. I got 16.9 before installing, and 16.5 now. However, now, I tend to accelerate a little quicker just to hear the intake. The new result is also kind of skewed, because during the beginning of the measurement I let the car idle a LOT as I was trying to find the source of a ticking noise in my engine. So, it may or may not be unchanged, but I definitely think there was some gains in mpg. Now, I wouldn't think that's from a new intake itself. I tend to drive the car a bit slower now, like a grandma, and only drive it fast occasionally (once a week maybe, if even that, occasionally a few times a week). Part of this is wanting to keep a 146k mile engine healthy, save money on gas, and because I was extremely paranoid after installing the intake. So, do not buy if you are expecting mpg gains. At least, not if your expecting big ones. You MIGHT see a slight increase. But I seriously doubt it. This is a very debated topic and for me personally the only reason it has changed is because of my driving habits. I did disconnect the battery, and clean the throttle body when installing. First start: Car would not turn over Second: Car did not turn over again Third: car turned over, and stalled Fourth: car turned over, ran roughly, very high idle, eventually stabilized Car made a light knocking noise at the very beginning of test drive, ran oddly and did not accelerate as I'd hoped. Very sluggish. But after about 50-100 miles of driving with the intake, the car runs great. Maybe it didn't improve acceleration, or mpg, but it definitely wants to go when I step on the gas, and it sounds very VERY nice. I attached an image of the kit and I'll link a youtube video of how the car sounds. Other plans for the car: - LED Headlights - Lowering Springs - B6 Bilstein Shocks - Black grille (maybe) - Tint front windows back to 5% - Gibson cat-back exhaust - (maybe) a tune/tuner The car is a fun to drive daily, and not much else. I most likely would not even try to make it into a project car, the transaxle is too weak to boost the car (or so I've heard) especially at 146,000 miles. But it is a possibility, you don't see one of these with a twin turbo and built powertrain everyday.

Ok good to know. I’m gonna go do my first drain and fill and disconnect the battery then take it on a test drive. If any slipping occurs with new fluid I will try the transmission fix

thank you, i will do so i use full synthetic, expensive but worth it to me. what does the transmission fix do? i also did disconnect the battery when installing a new intake the other day. no slipping since then, should i still do it each time i drain & fill?

i appreciate it but i havent really been able to find a clear answer. i have the '10 with a dipstick. i think i am just going to drain and fill sometime next week, give it a few months and repeat until i've exchanged all the fluid. but i wont do it all at once, maybe like a month in between. thats all im getting from these threads. fluid is pretty brown, idk about the smell. also to the mod who moved my post i appreciate it, i didnt find this thread when searchin lol but its very helpful it is slipping ocasionally so i do not wanna risk making it worse by exchanging all 12qt of fluid in one day. this slipping is only when its cold and it's usually just once per drive. ive never had it happen more than once. im hoping its nothing worse than that...

how should i go about doing this A. drain and fill once, and leave it (so i drain like 5qt with a warm trans, then fill with 5 qt) and just do this each 30k miles B. drain out as much as i can, fill the amount that was drained (so i drain 5qt, fill 5qt), and drive the car to warm the trans up and repeat until ive drained out ~12qt ive seen mixed opinions. this is a car with 146k miles and i have NO clue when the trans fluid was last changed, but it's brown now and definitely needs changing. but besides that, is there another way i should go about doing this?

i put a performance air intake on because it's a good price and sounds great. my car didnt start after, then started and stalled, then ran rough and finally settled. ran like crap until i drove it for a bit, then it was fine. mpg went from 16.9 to 18.7, but i cant say for sure if its changed anything yet.

Got it. Thank you. This job is kind of a while away but this is all very helpful. Will be sure to update when doing the job.

Thank you!!! I'm assuming I need 2 of those tools. Makes me feel a lot better about doing the job, thank you.

That is also very helpful. One last question, is the engine interference or not? I have no problem doing this job aside from timing. If I get timing off I want to be sure I can fix it and not blow my engine up.

forgot to say i replaced the mirror with a junkyard mirror, mine broke

Thank you, this is pretty helpful. And as far as extending life of the OEM water pump, any tips? I might just replace mine so I do not have to worry about it

the water pump and the engine mounts...

I have yet to change the coolant on my car. Got it at 126k miles, now at 146k. I know I have time before i hit 30k miles, but i dont know when/if this coolant was changed. It smells like fish and it's blue, so definitely not factory, but just for my own reassurance i would like to do this. Also good to prevent premature water pump failure I heard How would I go about doing this? Just drain and refill? Drain and run water through the system until just distilled water drains and nothing else? Is there a special fluid of some sort I need to flush the system? And last,what type of coolant should I use?

removed the "snorkel" looking thing from the right side very bottom of my airbox. entirely different sound

that’s also good to know. However my car is stored in a garage and it’s driven everyday, but I’ll definitely keep it in mind it if I notice or suspect any problems.

thanks, how would you go about removing it? Just wanna see if it does anything

2010 ford edge sport fwd, is the transmission supposed to be this hesitant to downshift? i understand it's known for that, but not to this extreme. earlier today i was trying to get on the highway, and i needed to speed up, so i pushed down on the gas quite a bit. the car just stayed in the same gear, and let the revs climb to 3k. and i was so confused, i thought something broke. so i stepped on the gas some more, but not all the way, and the damn thing downshifts instantly and starts screaming with the revs nearly at 6k. maybe the revs just got too high for it to downshift in that moment, and thats why it hesitated, but im a bit worried. transmission fluid is a light brown with only the slightest tint of pink, thinking of changing it soon, should i? how much fluid would i need? car is at 144k miles as well

I know what the thing in blue does, but not the red. Don't know either of their names. Can thing in red be removed?

Please do let me know, I was looking into those as well

Would be cool if paddle shifters could be installed on a car that did not come with them. Maybe there’s a way, but it wouldn’t be worth it

A lot for sure, definitely not worth it. I don't think you can even get that info too

Are they good? I've heard mixed opinions on them, but the new ford edges look SO god damn nice