deepimpact00

The clicking sound usually means the motor/mirror is too far extened in a certain direction or its trying to move but is being held by something. It moves fine when you use the joystick?

thats the problem, somehow my mirror preset for the right side dont save and its like i took the joystick and moved the mirror all the way right untill it wont go anymore and it clicks... im taking it in tomorrow. also heard clicking, sounds like cv's to me, put the stock rims back on and clicking stopped but im still getting it checked out. just rolled over 30,000 so im due in for a checkup.

ok so here's the issue. when my memory seat button is pressed, the mirrors adjust to the preset positions, but then when i press "1" to revert back to other seat position the mirror does not return to preset position it points all the way to the right and even "clicks" because its trying to go further right then its allowed. Ive disconnected the battery with no luck.. anyone have any issues like this? i haven't taken it to ford yet, but plan on getting it checked out unless i overlooked something.. and i have tried to reset the mirror memory position to where it needs to be but it always loses its memory whenever the seat memory buttons are pressed... no prob with left mirror or seats though. thanks in advance..

i am installing a kenwood dnx-9140 in place of the factory nav in my 2007 edge. im looking at this PAC Ford Radio Replacement Interface link at the bottom. is this just if you want to keep factory sub? im adding aftermarket subs, but i do want to keep the factory stereo harness so i can put the factory back in if i sell my edge down the road.. thanks for the help, also what dash kit should i use? im not sure if it will fit the unit i want to install im looking at the scosche one ill also post a link

Jon

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_127C2RFRD1/PA...ce.html?tp=3486

scosche dash kit- http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9435_S...ampaign=froogle

yes all digital i had these one in my focus with no problems in it. one relay is needed for the HID conversion, just run seperate wire T tapped into the hot on the switch. didnt need a relay for the fogs, either

I just installed HID 80000K on my 09 EDGE and ran into the same problem. A relay is needed because the correct ampage is not being sent to the unit. Run a power supply from your battery with a relay for each bulb and you will be fine. This is a problem that is unique to Ford. All in took me 35mins, and the result was amazing; better than I expected.

 

Hope this helps.

thanks for the info man, i need a 4 prong relay? and what do i do with the other prongs of the relay? im sure one is + one is -, one to the switch for the lights? sorry never done this before..

alright first of all, im familiar with HIDs and how to hook MOST of them up. Ive had HIDs on my other two cars and my bike with no problems. but with the edge, i cant seem to get them working when i turn the headlights on, they flicker on then immediately off. do i use a relay? and if so, how do i wire it up? and also, would i encounter a similar problem with the fogs as well? I'm using GT HID kit i picked up from Chevrolet for 215 bucks... thanks in advance

:happy feet: go throug the glovebox opening

I tried that I still can't seem to pop it out

Take out the far right air vent? Tried to pull it out no luck any ideas?

Does anyone have a problem with the rubber weatherstrip on the rear doors getting folded/mashed over?

 

I'm talking about the rubber that is attached to the rear door not the body, Both my rear doors have rubber that is folded/mashed "down" about half way back along the top edge of the door. It appears that it is caused by the transition from the flat front side at the top curve heading back along the top edge where it should be "plumped up" up along the top edge of the door.

 

Take a look at your rear doors and see what you've got?

 

There are no leaks so far but it seems like this not right...

 

I'd hate to get new rubber for both doors only to have it do the same thing with time!

 

Thanks,

 

Whitey

2007 SEL+ AWD

ill have to check it out i also have a 07 sel+ the only prob ive had so far id with the rubber strip between the spoiler and the glass, its coming out and ford is fixing it as soon as the part comes in.

Both are great units... I went with the F900BT with the 2.0 update.

It has BT built in also I have an iPhone/iPod and I didn't want mess with

keeping all my music synced up with ANOTHER hard drive

and it has a SD card slot so basiclly it acts like a little harddrive.

 

my Edge came with stock steering wheel controls so I hooked up an

adapter so they would work with the F900BT I installed.

 

Not much help, I know...

i also have ipod and iphone, but my ipod will never leave the car once its hooked up, did you have any problems downloading the phonebook to the HU with the iphone? i dont think ill use the hands free calling too often my car is already equipped with a hands free calling unit (cant remember the name right now) anyone have the alpine w505 with navi? i have the w205 right now and im trying to sell it so i can get a new unit (i wanted navi built in) i have found the w505 with navi in a package, and ive hearn nothing but bad things about the blackbird II but this seems to be a different unit. I dont know what kind of head unit to get lol im just getting sick of the same old CDs and not being able to control my ipod from the HU like before.

one more thing. im strung between the avic - z3 and the kenwood dnx 8120.. any suggestions? im kinda leaning for the kenwood because it has built in bluetooth, but then again ive heard you can rip cds straight on to the HDD on the z3.. and also how are the steering controls? are they worth it? and how is it mounted? in sight or out of sight? thanks guys

Crank power is an "instant power", you can not draw continuosly 500A from any battery without drying it for too long, 5 Farad caps will give you the same, caps are used as "reserve current" just for the peaks, they will not old any amp running for too long neither....

 

On the other side ClassD amps, while more efficient, are by far anything but audiophile quality amps. Audiophile amps are usually designed around Class A or Class AB (worst scenario) topologies and they require enormous heatsinks and fans for the heat dissipation. Class D amps were just created for the automotive industry later on to give you more power, but at the expenses of the sound quality. Just take a look around, and you will not find too many amps for home use, designed around Class D topologies.

 

Also do not forget that the energy is not created or destroyed, it is just transformed into other differet types, one of those, not all what you give to an amp is just for musical bliss, as in any other electronic device, you will have heat. So if you have 1000 watts per channel, you are disscipating at least, another 500-1000 watts just in heat, that is a lot of heat, so you may need around 30% more current to be drawn from the same 12volts battery, just ot keep you warm inside...not a big deal in winter time though... :shades:

 

Anyway, as I told you, any of those figures, are by far, safe for the hearing, less in that little volume as is of the interior of any car, and I have seen many fellows get the hearing busted, so please use it with caution, you do not need that much, that's it...just a healthy advice...

well said i understand the dangers, mostly is for show, ive won a few trophies and car shows for my system alone. just time to pass the power onto a new car. my focus held up really well, have bigger plans for the edge. thanks for the post guys

The bass roll off for safety reasons is not new, but what I'm trying to say is that is a lot easier to place that protection outside the headunit, rather than inside, and compromise the design, and what sense does ti make to even place it on a headunit that is intended to be used with a subwoofer and an amp after? Now in your case, it could be due to several reasons, impedance mismatch, reversed polarity, etc...or maybe it was indeed the way it was designed, I'm not discarting that posibility neither, just that is hard for me to beleive it, and I also tested it, and I did not feel it, but who knows maybe you are right...Now there are some subwoofer ams that include that correction internally, no need of aftermarkets units, anf they will integrate better...honestly for the volume that use, that is not so low neither, what I have is more than enough, and if i ever replace it is just looking for something more refined, but honestly I od not see me doing it...BTW I hear heavy metal, hard rock, classic rock, jazz, fussion, NAM, acoustic also, etc...some of those require sometimes a little extra thump!!!

 

 

 

 

I did not try to put you down sorry if you believe so, and I really apologize if you misunderstood me, I was just talking in general, not just in reference to your particular case, and please do not feel offended, but the hearing is a sense that once it goes down, will be down forever, and I absolutelly appreciate to have mine as long as I can, so I encourage others to do it. Not sure if you think the same way, and to protect it is by far wiser than stupid, but do not expect that any sane manufacturer will create a system around 5Kwatts, as 5000Watts, in that small volume, is seriously attempting against your hearing, so please for your own safety, just stop doing it...a healthy advise...

 

Now let's talk a little bit about other topics, first IME this kind of power is not posible, from the design point of view, and they can claim all the want, and I do not care who is, but you have only 12volts from the battery most of the times, and in order to get 5000watts RMS, from 12volts, you may need roughly 400A from the battery or more, and that is considering the amp will be 100% efficient, which is not posible neither, so it will let go at least like one third of that in heat, we are talking of easily 550A or more, do your math from that point on, but at least I do not know of many auto batteries capable of providing such current continuosly, and even in the peaks is really hard...

Two to batteries are recommended, one is mainly for the for vehicle and one for the amp. The amp alone has two power terminals.. High output alternator to keep efficiant power to charge both batteries, and a 5 farad capacitor. I had these 15''s in in my focus running off one battery, i used 2g wire and had power going into a distribution block and had two power outputs from the Distribution block going into the amp. then two seprate grounds and it worked fine. no power cap. no special battery, Duralast battery from auto zone (590 cold cranking Amps & 735 cranking Amps) and no High output alternator (110 amp) and i do understand that the amp isnt at "full capacity" and i dont need 5000 watts... i had to go to a bigger amp then the 2500 watt kicker amp i was using because i was tired of sending it in to kicker to get it fixed every few weeks. plus im not "running" 5000 watts to the speakers, its all about ohms, and these specs are ran at one channel. im running two channels.. im running 1600 per sub so 3200 total

# 5000W HCCA High Current Competition Class D Monoblock Amplifier

# RMS Power Output:

* 4 Ohms: 1000 watts x 1 chan.

* 2 Ohms: 1600 watts x 1 chan.

* 1 Ohm: 2500 watts x 1 chan.

# 10dB of boost with INTELLi Q

# Remote Gain capable

# Selectable AUX out

# Additional Power Output: 2500 Watts RMS at 1 ohm

# Massive loosely-regulated MOSFET power supply

# IntelliQ Bass Optimization Circuit and Remote Gain Control

# Heavy Gauge Direct-wire High Current Power and Speaker Terminals

# 18dB/octave Low-pass Filter

# Dimensions: 22.8"L x 10.2"W x 2.4"H

no i havent seen that lol, what are all the RCAplugs for? I havent taken a peak of the back of the OEM navi unit But i guess i was just imagining a harness (plugs on one end that Connects into the OEM harness on the car end) with 12 to 14 wires on the other end to Twist together the wires from the aftermarket Head Unit.. Am i Wrong?

and what about these? (a little cheaper) http://www.electotronics.com/pacc2rfrd1rad...incolnmerc.aspx

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_16955_...ral+FORDAH.html

alright i wanted to put a kenwood dnx-7140 in dash into my edge but i dont want to cut up my factory harness and was browsing the internet for a harness adapter that plugs into my edge's OEM harness to allow me to remove it if i ever decide to sell it. i cant seem to find one anywhere, does anyone have a pic of the factory harness (OEM NAVI) or a link to one? thanks in advance.

Who said that the stock headunit cuts the bass while you crank it up? I could understand that someone wants to change the stock unit, and install a far better and more refined unit, and I'm not talking of an stupid 5Kwatts, amp, I'm talking about audiophile stuff, natural musical sound, with all freq at the level they should be, not just noise to rattle the trunk and windows.

 

Sorry but while I measured it, using a CD with tones centered at given freqs, from 20Hz to 20Khz, just to correct the levels in volume, and set the right volume for the subwoofer amp, while I replace my stock speakers with the DLS I have now, I was not able to find any anomaly along the spectrum, at any volume. The stock subwoofer amp, and the stock subwoofer itself, just integrates nicely into the sound, as intented giving you a very natural sound. I'm talking of the right way to set a system, not what you see in those Civic's across the street with rattling trunks.

Say what you want, we all like different stuff, put what you want in your Edge, after all, its yours. I dont care what you like, and I dont care what you think about what i like, and i dont care if you think 5000 watts is stupid. I'm not dissin you because you like your music "Natural" after all i'm probably way younger then you and i like my bass, so please don't put me down and what i like and enjoy.

lol yeah i had these 15'' L7's in my focus hatch, i had to run 0 guage wire to power the 5000 watt amp which is the main thing im dreading is trying to hide that huge wire.. how did u bypass the speed sensor for the oem navigation unit?

or if you dont need/ use #2memory seat positions (if equipped), set the seat to the same position as #1 and just adjust your mirrors where you would like them to be when you park. simply press #2 and PRESTO your mirrors will auto adjust lol

alright i have an 07 with navi, and i want to add my 15 inch subs but the main thing thats holding me back is i kinda want to keep the oem navi but the down side to that is the distortion using the oem head unit, and i cant control my ipod from the screen plus id need crossovers and all that junk.. the main reason i want to use the oem unit is because i want to keep all the steering wheel controls, the down side to that is i cant have movies or music videos playing while i drive. i seen a post on here where someone installed i believe a pioneer head unit (cant seem to find the post) and the steering controls were compatable? basically i just want to know what i would need to keep the factory navi with the BEST sound quality, and around how much that would cost, or if i should invest into a new double din like that pioneer one and just hook up the subs that way..

suggestions? comments are welcome, sorry if some of this dont make sense i wrote it up in a hurry

search on ebay.. i have a window tinting company down the street that i buy my supplys from, not sure of the name of the product i use but its made for tail lights and its a liquid spray transparent tint. very good quality.. best part about it is you can make it as dark or as light as you would like. very easy to use, remove tail lights and clean them with rubbing alcohol.. let dry. then use VERY light coats and do each at the same time that way you can get the tint to match as close as possible. i usually did 3 coats max. cans cost 12 bucks, and the best part about it is if you mess up you can wipe it off if you mess them up with a little of laquor thinner.. they look great and very professional. if you really want them to shine put a ittle bit of clear coat over them and they will last for years. i wouldnt put them on the headlights, maybe a very light coat and some clear but i imagine they will start to pit unless you bought some 3m clear bra to protect them