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KailuaEscape

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Everything posted by KailuaEscape

  1. The multimeter is working fine. I can measure DC voltage, and ohms. But good idea to use AutoZone. In my town, I would try O'Reillys since there is not a AutoZone (my favorite). What do I ask for? I've used their OBD code reader. To test for parasitic loads are you saying to get a different multimeter from them (worth a shot)? Then disconnect the negative cable at the firewall in the parking lot (can do) and hook up the meter in series?
  2. For my 2013 Escape Titanium, I disconnected the negative from the firewall and connected the red on my volt ohm meter to the negative wire from the battery post and the black wire to the chasis. I set the meter to max 400 mamp and it reads zero. I am suspicious, so I open the car door. No lights come on, no dash lights when I push the ignition lightly. No door locks work. There is no power. The battery reads 10.8 volts (I plan to exchange it as it is under warranty). (Even after a nights trickle charge the charger says it is done but a VOM only shows 11.3.) When I connect the battery post back to the firewall it sparks and after secured to the wall, lights and door switches work. I don't give up. Since I am returning the suspicious battery, I pull off the wipers and everything to get the cowl off and reveal the battery. I remove the negative terminal wire from the post; this opens the circuit and all power is off. I connect the VOM red directly to the negative post; I connect the black VOM wire to the chasis. No power comes on; the VOM reads 0 mAmps. What is the cause? This should complete the circuit and power should come on and allow me to measure for any parasitic power draw!!! Is there some safety feature defeating this method?
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