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LivingEdgey

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Posts posted by LivingEdgey

  1. I realize that most of us are under warranty and won't be doing much in the way of major repairs, but I want to stick my neck out here. The mailman brought me a complete set of manuals for a 2008 Edge/MKX ( including wiring diagrams. ). If anyone needs anythng specific, I may be able to help. Keep in mind I work shift work and have dial-up internet. If you need a scan of something, I can give it a try, but it will really depend on its size as to whether I can post or e-mail it.

     

    Cheers and have a good new year !

    Derek

    Can you tell me how to remove the front lower bumper/air dam? I don't have fog lamps in it, if that makes any difference.

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  2. Having just transitioned over from a 2002 Suburban, I am disappointed in the noise levels in my 2010 Edge. First off, it seems like my Hankook tires make an extreme amount of noise when I drive down the road.

    I also hear more wind noise in the cabin than I did in my Suburban.

     

    On the bright side, it is a lot quieter than my 1970 VW convertible!

  3. My results are just the opposite. I seem to have a wind noise coming from the passenger door area. It is not something that is occurring inside the cabin, it seems like it is something causing a wind noise external to the cabin. I am unable to pin point where the noise is coming from, but do not think it has anything to do with the weather stripping or door alignment.

  4. I installed an aftermarket Class II Hidden Hitch on my 2009 Ford Edge. I am towing a 2000 Yamaha Waverunner. My question is has anyone merely "tapped" into current wires in the rear with wire splicers to hook up the 4 prong plug for a boat trailer? I think the $50 price tag on the T-connector wiring harness is a bit much. I paid $10 bucks for the 4 prong at Wal Mart. I know in the olden days my father tapped into the wires already available. I just need brakes, turn signals, and ground, right?

    I think the only way you can tap directly in to the electrical system and have it work would be if your trailer only had LED lighting on it. Anything more than that and you would be asking for trouble.

  5. It wouldn't take much to hollow out the styrofoam that is in there now-----I've considered doing that to my '08 LTD. :happy feet: That would save a bunch of money. An electric knife (borrowed from your wife) allows you to work wonders with styrofoam!

    Not worth it to me to butcher up some styrofoam that if I screw up would cost me an arm and a leg. Besides, my wife doesn't have an electric knife, she uses me!

  6. Goto parts.com, enter 2007 Lincoln MKX as your vehicle, and search for the word cargo. It's $29 for each side there. The description is Storage compart Left - W/cargo management - W/cargo management .

    it looks to me like they have a savings of $29 each, but the price is $117 each instead of $146.

    Seems like a lot of money for a couple of plastic storage bins to me.

     

    Darn it all, I think I might have coughed up the cash for them if they were only 30 bux a piece. :shades:

  7. Hi modette99. :D As Lex stated, these are not "secret codes". They are all outlined (in detail) in our Owners Manuals.

     

    We don't need to study the Manual like we are having an exam, but everyone should at least take a quick look through it so they can get to know some of these "secrets". As you will see, there are quite a few programmable options on the Edge (as in most new vehicles).

     

    For thosw who have lost their Owners Manuals or purchased used and did not get one, you can download a PDF version here: LINK: Owners Manuals. Hover your cursor over "Maintenance". Click on "Owners Manuals". Then just fill in the drop down boxes with your vehicle information.

     

    Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

    An old post for sure, but the link is still valid for the 2010 models too.

    THANKS FOR THE LINK!

  8. Hi LivingEdgey. :D Yes.

     

    Remove the front license plate. Determine what type of fastener your Dealer used to attach the bracket. It will usually be either screws or rivets. If it is screws, simply remove the screws to remove the bracket. You will need to purchase some type of plug to hide the holes in the bumper cover. There are several choices available and you can paint them to match the bumper color.

     

    If it is rivets, it is a little harder. You will need to drill out the rivets, or use a "Dremel" type tool to take off the rivet head and release the bracket. Fill the holes with plugs.

     

    To reinstall the bracket, simply remove the plugs and use appropriate sized screws to reattach it when you want/need to.

     

    Good luck. :beerchug:

    Thanks for the reply.

    Mine appears to have big black plastic buttons with a center piece of plastic going through them. Sort of like a giant plastic pop rivet. I guess I will get my drill out and see what happens if I drill out the centers.

  9. Here you go.. my latest project - another first of it's kind. It has irked me for some time that when I open the center console, anything below the top inch is invisible in pitch black. Similar with the glove box, impossible to see into at night. So, I solved it by wiring up cool LED lights into my center console AND the glove box. Pretty sweet mod that worked out exactly as I planned. Should have been stock in my opinion. But hey, solved the Vista roof light issue, so solved this one as well.

     

     

    PRODUCTS USED

     

    In searching for little LED lights, I found some awesome ones - in black - for motorcycles on ebay. Very affordable. came as a pair. I also got some plunger pin style courtesy dome/door light activation switches off ebay. They came as white, I primed and painted those black. I also dremmeled down the one for the center console as the lip was too round and I just cut off extra material for a better ft. In total, this is about $34 in parts and 1-1.5 hour of time. Results seem to be well worth it.

     

    CENTER CONSOLE

     

    I mounted the light in the drivers side corner of the center console so it aims into the console. could do it either side, but this worked for me. means I can never put the little moveable change holder nearest me, but that is fine for me. I keep it on the pass side anyway so I can look into the center console. I drilled a hole for it and slid the wires down. I accessed the wires by pulling off the rear passenger vent panel and viola, right there is ground and power with the rear cig lighter port! perfect! I then drilled the hold for the plunger on the opposite side up at the lip of the console so the plunger is activated as the door closes. I had to dremmel this hole wider as the light in switch is wider than the bit I had an dremmel allowed for more precision. I then wired up ground to switch from ground at cig lighter, ground out of switch to LED light, power back to cig lighter. this way, the switch brakes the connection when console shuts.

     

    GLOVE BOX

     

    On this one, I mounted the LED light in the upper left corner aiming down. it moves in and out with the door open/close as it is mounted to door. I put the plunger switch on the opposite side (pass) and placed it right in line with the rubber foot so the rubber foot would reach the plunger and push it closed. as above, used dremmel to get perfect tight fit. I ran ground from switch to the frame rail you can see right inside the glove box where the glove box wire spool is attached that allows the box to open slow and smooth. as a matter of fact, perfect hole right there to bolt wire into to get ground. then ran ground out from switch to the LED and I tapped power into the cig lighter near the front cubby hole. to access it, I pulled the center NAV/climate control panel away and wired right into the cig lighter power wire.

    Hey Lex,

    Sweet setup you came up with.

    I doubt if I will do the glove box as I generally won't use it, but the center console is a whole another deal. That thing is like the bat cave it is so deep and dark!

    Thanks for the pics.

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