daveknapp2000

can you find this code with a pepboys or autozone scanner or what type does it need to be to access the "headlight test"?  I ask as my passenger side low beam is not working...tested ground and positive side shows no power?

Had this similar issue and 1st time Tcm was replaced by dealer, 2nd time  torque converter was replaced along with new fluid.  Having the codes pulled made the difference and pointed at tcm vs no codes on torque converter and an engine stall test would help to confirm  torque converter issues.

1 check codes, if no codes then stall test to perform to see if u confirm torque converter has fault, if nothing then change fluid as 1st step,  change torque converter might be 2nd step that cost more money for parts and time as you have to pull transmission and change like changing a dry clutch etc.

you might also check your engine mounts first as if they are eroded/disintegrated that can cause the rev/rpm change also.

all from experience....

others have mentioned sensors which is true but you check those w codes or via scan tool making sure readings are accurate in input and output shaft readings etc. and may show faults when looking at live data vs fault codes as has to reach certain numbers of faults to throw codes....

tcm failure 40k miles,

torque converter about 80k and no towing

TCI builds quality aftermarket torque converters

I have all the bolts out and wiring but seems difficult to pull the valve covers off? Any tips or tricks out there. Do you have to worry about the cvt(camshaft variable timing) valve a little more? I have tripled checked all screws removed and nothing in the way. Need some help w this one.

What were the tricks if any to get the valve covers off. I have loosened all bolts, wiring, gas lines etc but valve covers seem difficult to come off...

I did call the ford dealer today jan 1 2014 and they confirmed that a leaking internal waterpump on these engines(3.5L v6/duratec 35) can leak coolant into the water...seems like a design flaw that should be recalled....

I have read this and was wondering how to check the water pump internal leak into the oil/crankcase vs the head gasket blown?

Should I replace both head gaskets or just the one that blew with 150K miles. I was thinking both since I am already there. How long should this repair take for planning purpose? I was thinking an entire weekend should do it.

Hello, was wondering what parts should be replaced with the head gasket that makes since?

Head gasket and thermostat make since to me and perhaps serpentine belt. what about water pump and others?

2007 ford edge with 150K miles on it.

When should I plan to rebuild the engine...300K?

I had to replace the ac condensor due to a rock cracking it. Was wondering where the ac dryer is located on the edge in order to replace.

Unless a component is changed oil doesn't have to be added,(dryer,evap,condensor,compressor)unless a major leak has occured.Too much oil is no good as it changes the volume of gas in the system and could also damage the compressor valve plates. Marty

so changed the ac condensor as a rock hit it and cracked one of the veins and the freon came out. replaced part and evacuated/vacuumed the system out. looking to find what type and how much oil I should place into the system for the 2007 ford edge.

thanks-but I will do the repair myself-thus still looking for how much oil to add to the system?

I have had the same problem with the 2007 edge. The car wouldn't drive at 43K and the dealer replaced the entire tcm. ( Note that they said they had alot in stock-which seemed weird since this was a brand new car on the road less than 6 months in june of 2008.

I have the specs of 19oz of freon for the edge ac-but how much if any add'l pag lubricant does the system need other than what comes with the r134a recharge cans.

ours has acted up a couple times. it's in the shop now for the PTU (i almost bet that's your problem with yours)

what is te ptu? Did your dealer replace that and fix the problem. I have the same issue but with the shifting from first to second gear only.

so, after the 35K transmission skipping and ending in not working with the yellow wrench not working...and tcm board for transmission replaced. Now at approx the same mileage later (70K miles now) the transmission seems to be starting down the same pathway as before with the "skipping" or slamming into gear from 1st to 2nd gear...(approx 10 mph)anyone else having the same problem and what was the fix? Took to the dealer for warranty repair but they said the could find nothing wrong. Wondering if that is true since dealers don't make much on warranty work.

I had the same problem at about 35K miles. Took to the dealer and they replaced the "transmission control board" and it worked fine for another 20K miles and now the same problem is coming back. It seems to start with the transmission "skipping" or "slipping" in low gears and finally goes completely out where you can step on the gas and the car will not move but the engine will rev. The transmission seems to be totally disengaged as if the "clutch" was stripped if you were talking about a manual transmission but mine is automatic probably like most just stated it that way for clarification.

I picked up the car today. Planetary gear failure along with some supporting parts, gaskets and seal.

The vehicle still has a slight amount of "Slack" in the transmission at low speed. This occurs when you are, for example, stopped, then begin creeping forward with traffic. No foot on the brake and no foot on the accelerator... both engine and transmission are seemingly "Unloaded". Then when traffic speed picks up and you nudge the gas pedal, it feels like the transmission forgets it is in gear and then all of a sudden pops back into gear resulting in what feels like a "bump" caused by a re-engagement of the trans. Almost feels like someone bumped into the rear end.

 

Anyone experience anything like this?

I have the exact same problem with 2007 ford edge sel. The dealer replaced the tcm board but in stop and go traffic it is a nightmare and wondering if the real problem is the transmission control module or the transmission itself. problem stated at 35k miles and then board replaced but the "slack" or disengagement issue appreared at approx. 20K miles later at approx 55k miles. Feels just like someone rear-ending you at slow speeds where the transmission "slams" back into gear. Only happens at slow speeds like stop and go traffic.

Does anyone have a known fix? What would cause this issue? The tcm or something else?

2007 Edge SEL w/21K miles

 

I was coming home with my wife yesterday. About 2 miles from home while merging into traffic, the transmision acted as if it downshifted all the way to first and then would not upshift. It also periodicly acted as if it were in neutral. The "Open-end wrench" idiot light appeared on the dash followed by the "Engine" idiot light.

We got the vehicle home, but it does not seem to be drivable and will be into the dealer Monday moring sharp.

 

Anyone experience anything like this???

I had the same problem at about 35K miles. Took to the dealer and they replaced the "transmission control board" and it worked fine for another 20K miles and now the same problem is coming back. It seems to start with the transmission "skipping" or "slipping" in low gears and finally goes completely out where you can step on the gas and the car will not move but the engine will rev. The transmission seems to be totally disengaged as if the "clutch" was stripped if you were talking about a manual transmission but mine is automatic probably like most just stated it that way for clarification.