bender

Hi Bender, I am having the same problem with my 2010 sports . My dealer refuse to replace the tires. To My surprise Ford also refuse to help me out. I have been pumping these tire every three days for the past year. I got scared on the 401 when my front tire went flat. No leaks were found on the tires and when I mention the TBS to the ford manager that handles my dealer, her reply was that she does not want to hear anything about it. When I asked here what should I do. her reply was that it is up to me if I want to take it to someone who can fix it. HELP anyone............The vehicle is still under ford warranty .

You should get ahold of Ford Customer Service and tell them of your dealerships resistance to assist you. The leak will be between the rim and bead of the tire. Remove the tire and put soapy water on the wheel where the tire meets the rim, it will bubble. Do each side. When I have trouble with a service manager I take the problem to thier boss and give them a chance to correct the problem. It usually works.

Having same problem on my 2011 sport with the Pirelli's. Front driver tire has a slow leak - takes 3-4 weeks to go from about 38 to 26 or so to trip the low pressure light. I haven't brought it in yet, but only have 15K miles on these tires so i'm a little concerned i'll have to pony up for some new tires at 250/each.

 

Shame the reseating didn't work for you - i'll have to take mine in and see what they can do if anything. Wonder if anyone else has had success with fixing the issue...

I made a post in another topic about 22s and leaks. In canada Ford has a TSB out to replace any 22" wheels that are leaking, the leaks are due to corrosion around the beads. I had all four wheels replaced by Ford Canada. I can't see why the U.S wouldn't have a similar TSB or I would at least bring it to thier attention about Canadas woes.

Can anyone check on this TSB stateside? We had ours remounted but I noticed some defect at the edge of the rim. The dealer of course said it was curb rash (which is almost impossible with the way the tire sticks out over the rim lip unless you really bash a curb). I thought it looked like corrosion but now I really wonder.

Rashing the wheel is very easy. I pulled into KFC and touched the curb putting a little rash on the wheel, I joked that it was a 2000 dollar bucket of chicken. Fortunately my wheels were replaced under the service bulletin.

With the tire removed you'll easily see the corrosion on the wheel, I suppose it's the only reason why I would want to use nitrogen in my wheels. It might prevent such corrosion, hopefully Ford has rectified the problem. I know it won't happen to me again, I've traded in the Edge in for a 2012 Ford Taurus Sho.

Definitely the dealer. Hopefully they didn't charge you extra for it.

 

Personally I prefer a 78% Nitrogen blend. It's readily available if you know where to look. You can tell if you have it by the black caps. The side benefit is if you're trapped underwater you can breathe it.

Yeah, It came in handy for me last year when some bad guys with guns were giving chase, well I drove into the water and evaded them by sucking the air out of the wheels.

Sincerely,

Bond, James Bond.

I used to have that problem - 22" wheels Pirelli Tires (The worst ever made!) - Dealer put Nitrogen in my tires - lasted for a while - but bam - Low Pressure Light came on again. The Pirelli's they put on the Sports SUCK! The are rated 1 star out of 5 and the vibration is horrible!!!! I did some extensive research and was gonna get new rims (18" and thicker tires to match) - but then I did just tire research. Yokohama Aztec tires - look at them on their website - they are rated 4 1/2 stars and they are for everything! Got them put on at 26K - Pirelli can have their tires back - and WOW what a difference that made. I have yet to put on the Traction control even when it rains. And I was always having to use it cus I felt like I was floating all the time. Now I actually feel like my tires are hugging the road - and guess what - the tires are the same exact price!

 

Pirelli tires are used for racing and only racing - this is why the won the bid when Ford called for tires for their Sport models. Take my advice to heart - I drive my Sport everyday and put my family in it everyday - It had gotten to the point that I wanted to get rid of it - but now I don't - now I feel safe. Ford should recall all of those tires on the Sport model and put Yokohama Aztec's on all of them!

 

Hope this helps

Wow, you have no idea what your talking about. Pirelli's are not bad tires nor do they "suck".

Ford CANADA has a tsb out on these wheels if they leak, I have had all 4 of my wheels replaced due to corrosion of the finish. I would imagine US Ford would have the same bulletin out.

Your sport is a front wheel drive? In Canada they are only all wheel drive. I bought myself a set of 17 studless winter tires and rims for the winter, this thing is like a mountain goat with these; but next step up would be the studdless tire tech with studs. With the 17's you could run the traction products you want.

Dan,

 

Is this install still working for you. That seems a tad unsafe since you are trusting the strength of the bolts alone since the entrire hiflange is not in contact with the frame. I am about to do this install and wanted to lower mine as well to get under the lower bumper fascia. Thanks!

 

Marty

I would ditch the grade 2 washers and nut for a spacer and get a plate in there as soon as possible. The frame on the edge is like litmus paper and I wouldn't want to be putting loads from towing into concentrated areas of the frame, you can see your washers are bent from tightening the fasteners already.

Duh, and there it is: 10-2-09. Replace the trailing link along with the hub and bearing assembly. Apparently I cannot read and the memory is gone as well. Still annoyed at the dealer, but I should have remembered this one.

I'm a little late here but it was done under warranty, that's both rear wheel bearings within 27 000km and a year and a half. Not confidence inspiiring. I'm told they replaced the right trailing arm also.

Have you had Krown or rustcheck rustproofing done to the vehicle, I had my truck done by one of them and they sprayed thier product onto my rotors. It felt exactly like your describing, I went to the car wash and sprayed them off with soapy water and braking was back to the same way as it was after a few miles of driving, which was lucky; I thought new pads were going to be in order. Tire shine products would also do the same thing if you sprayed them onto the rotors.

It's going back to the dealership next week to get the other rear wheel bearing replaced. It's also getting a checkvalve in the transmission done as well.

I've only got 25 000 km on my Sport and one of the rear wheel bearings is shot, Wtf? This thing has never been on gravel roads and hasn't hit too many potholes I expected more from FORD on quality and reliability. This POS has been in the shop for many months in the year and a half that I've owned it. One problem after another...... Now it's feels like the tranny is losing its drive when accelerating from a stop sign for a second or two, will it never end! Hell my old ford Aerostar with 350.000 km on it only took $400 dollars a year to maintain. Seems as though Ford is going backwards on quality.

have the brakes checked. I know you only have 20k miles... but the edge is notorious for having crappy short lived brakes. You can always continue your troubleshooting from there.

I've got a 2010 sport, I think the brakes are good. I can stop it very quickly.

Damn ! I have a shop queen '08 limited . It seems that every issue listed in the TSB's this car has had ! I added up what it has cost ford for parts and labor to repair this thing and it is teetering on the $10,000 mark !

I tried trading it at the dealer, gave them a very reasonable offer. They wouldn't do it, end result is that I've bought a 2011 Sierra Denali; it would have been a Ford truck if they would have been reasonable. I like the Edge, just wish it wouldn't give me grief. I guess it'll get traded at some point before warranty expires if it doesn't become reliable.

I've got a 2010 edge sport, I do like the vehicle but it's been a shop queen. It's had the entire dash ripped out for a hvac smell, the rear lift gate was rubbing on the bumper, this repair took three attempts the final attempt took a new liftgate. Three out of four wheels leak due to corrosion on the beads, they've never seen winter and are stored in a heated and humidity controlled garage. The red lens fell off the right rear taillight, the windshields crack (ford said it was due to rock chips, if it was they were very very small). It had to be flatdecked into the dealership because the ignition switch fuse kept blowing (a burnt wire under the steering wheel column). Then it's been in a bunch of times for the dealer to fix stuff they damaged during repairs. Ford seems to think this is o.k.

Rims $1100

Machined out bore of rims to make them fit $250

Tires $1000

New bands for wheels $200

 

All in all not bad for factory wheels that are 2011 and hard to get

Who's selling those rims for $1100. Thats a fantastic deal.

EDIT: Nevermind I see you bought them from someone who bought aftermarket wheels. You lucked out. I took my 2010 22" wheel in because it was leaking and the shop stated they're 1800 a piece here in Canada.

I like meguairs m105 followed by m205 then by synthetic 21 and a nice carnuba, like cg pete's 53.

Braking, not breaking. And no - it won't change the brake force it just takes out the mushy feel. Even if they did increase the brake force that would not cause the rotors to warp.

I don't know how well this is known but water permiates the oe rubber brake lines and gets absorbed into the fluid, making the boiling point much lower. With SS lines the liners will not allow water to permiate, keeping your fluid drier longer.

What a dick! I asked a simple question and you had to be a dick.

 

 

 

 

Yeah I'm a dick, I took time out to search and find the instructions; post the pdf file so people can benefit. I guess that makes me a dick. My only obvious fault here was cracking a funny with you.

I said pictures please not drawings please.

 

 

I can't give you pictures, i didn't buy the ford kit; but you could go to toys r us and buy some crayons to color in the drawerings and imagine they are pictures.

Pictures also please.

Taken from this site.

sk_7t4j_15a416_aa__all1.pdf

I hear ya. What kind of wheels are on the 2010 model, 20s?

They're 22s as well. Thats what I fell for when I seen it on the lot.

Please try it out for yourself. If you have a Sport, then go get your FREE locks and put them on. They look like crap on the nice wheels, in my opinion.

Then do some surfing and check out if people using that style of locks have had issues to open the lock once you need to. I have found many people complaining all over the internet that have stripped their lock's key. So, I suggest you keep a pipe wrench in your trunk, so that you can take the lock off if you ever have a flat (make sure you have some nice wide rubber bands too for grip).

Some people have had to touch weld a pipe to the lock after the key breaks.

Next concern is only having one lock with a pretty common key. Look up the price of the wheel then think if your $40-$50 investment is worth having good looking safe locks.

That is my thinking only. If you feel safe and dont mind the looks, then by all means, use the included locks and enjoy.

Hey, if anyone wants to buy my factory locks for $15 please write me.

I didn't say anything wrong with the function of the lock, I was commenting that one lock and 4 std nuts will not create an unbalance that your going to notice, the extra weight is too close to the center of the wheel to matter.

I have a 2010 Edge sport that I purchased on the end of November 2009, I don't think you get free locks with the 10. If someone wants to steal my wheels I guess I'll have to claim it on my insurance, I hope they steal the one with the tiny scratches in it!

I will say that putting only the 1 lock on the tires and with that lock lug having a higher weight DOES present a small inbalance. The tires are so big and already have ALOT of weights on them from the factory. But they were balanced good before. I recently had alot of brand new blacktop put down in my area. The road is as perfect as you can get and only 3 weeks old at this time. So from driving the 5 miles of new road and the subsequent 140 miles each way, I felt a slight wobble.

This is something that I do not want to live with so I will be seeking a lock solution that has all lock nuts. This will give a consistent weight and best protection solution.

1 lock and 4 nuts will not create a unbalance that your going to ever feel. They are simply to close to the center of your wheel to matter.

Probably just for looks. Drilled and slotted rotors do nothing for street driving except make noise in some cases.

What about weight reduction and off gasing?

Hey Bender I have a quick question?

 

I too also have a 2010 edge sport and i want to add a hitch to it, whats ur input on towing with a edge sport? can it be done? and which hitch would u perfer?

 

If anyone else knows the answere to this please post too.

 

 

Thank You, AL

It's fine to tow with, it's got the trans cooler and with a decent hitch properly installed there should be no issues. The bigger tires and wheels handle the towing with ease. I've only used a class III hidden hitch for a regular Edge, it needed some spacer plates to fit nicely though. Don't go over the 3500 lbs tow capacity, this isn't a truck and the frame certainly isn't designed like a trucks; but if you stay within the recommendations it'll all be good.