CMOS

In my infinite wisdom I believe I placed my battery charger near the spare tire after my battery drained the last time. Unfortunately without power I cannot open the liftgate to open the floor to get to it. I've been able to pop the cover near the latch within the trunk but I am unsure on how to trigger it manually. Given the rear seat backs are also electric its very hard for me to get in there to look around for the mechanism. 

Anyone know how to open it manually from the inside? 

I'm currently having a fast turn signal on the right hand side turn signal on my 2011 edge limited. This is due to splice connectors for an LED conversion and a running light mod I did about a decade back. 

As of now the daytime running light on the turn signal bulb works but the turn signal itself is completely out due to the wire being nearly cut. 

Does someone know which wire is power for the DRL and which is for the trunk signal. I've attached a picture of my mess below. 

Thanks! 

To close out this topic.   I confirmed the following.

1. Electrical contact cleaner doesn't really work well to fix the issue.
2. Brake cleaner was the most effective, eliminating both driver and door side issues.  (However slamming the door does temporarily bring the problem back)
3. Silicone spray lubrication undoes the cleaning effect and re-introduces the door ajar issue.

I'm finally going to do something about the 'door ajar' warning on my passenger front door.   I've watched a large number of videos about disassembling the door to replace the sensor, or cleaning it with contact cleaner and lube.    My question is, in relation to the latch opening, and the hook that rotates inside, where is that sensor exactly?   Is it below the rotating hook, above it or behind it?     I might as well aim the cleaner and lube at that small red button as opposed to drowning the opening (which worked for the driver side that began to have the same issue, but hasn't worked on the passenger side).

6 hours ago, Haz said:

From the 2011 Edge Workshop Manual...

 

Rear Seats

WARNING: Synchronize the seat recliners following the steps in the seat removal and installation procedure any time the seat is removed for service. The following actions may result in the loss of recliner synchronization that cannot be corrected and may cause the seat back to fail in a crash:

• Dropping the seat
• Sitting on the seat when removed
• Applying any load to the seat when removed
• Removing or loosening any recliner fasteners except for the seatbelt buckle bolt

Install a new seat back frame assembly if the seat recliners cannot be synchronized. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury to the vehicle occupant(s) in a crash.

 

The rear seats are a 60/40 split folding/reclining backrest design. The recliner release handle allows the backrest to recline as well as fold the backrest forward. When the backrest is folded forward, the front legs of the seat fold down (kneel) creating a level load floor with the luggage area. The 60 percent seat has a fold down armrest with cup holders. The armrest latches to a striker in the backrest frame.

 

The rear seats are available with power fold-down backrests and/or heated seats.

 

On vehicles equipped with the power fold-down backrest, when the rear seats are removed from the vehicle, the inboard and outboard recliners must be synchronized before installing the seat back into the vehicle. If the recliners are not synchronized, carry out the synchronization steps in Seat — Rear, 40 Percent or Seat — Rear, 60 Percent in this section. The recliners must not be moved from this synchronized position until all the seat-to-floor retainers are tightened to specification. Synchronizing the recliners may require the recliners to be released. Use care when working with the recliners as they are spring loaded and release with high force.

 

The 60 and 40 percent seat backrest frame assemblies include the backrest frame, anchor brackets and recliners (inboard and outboard). These parts must be serviced as an assembly. For vehicles equipped with power fold-down backrest, to prevent loss of recliner synchronization, recliner binding or backrest latch/release failure, never loosen or remove the recliner bolts, except for the safety belt buckle bolt. The backrest frame assemblies are assembled on a fixture not available for service.

 

The safety belt buckle bolt is the only bolt on either 40 or 60 percent seat recliner that may be removed for service. To service the safety belt buckle, refer to Section  501-20A.

 

 

Power Fold Down Backrest (if equipped)

The optional power fold down backrest, in addition to functioning with the manual recline handle, has a convenient power fold seat control switch mounted in the LH rear quarter trim panel rear hatch area. When the switch is pushed, left or right, an electromechanical motor releases that seat's recliners through a cable attachment, and a spring load folds the backrest down and kneels the front legs. The seat backrest must then be manually lifted upright to the seating position with the recliners locked in place.

 

Document Download Links>

Rear Split-Bench Seats - Exploded View Illustration - 2011 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf

Second Row 40 Percent Seat - Removal and Installation - 2011 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf

Second Row 60 Percent Seat - Removal and Installation - 2011 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf

Rear Seat Cushion, 40 Percent - Removal and Installation - 2011 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf

Rear Seat Cushion, 60 Percent - Removal and Installation - 2011 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf

Rear Seat Power-Fold Seat Motor - Removal and Installation - 2011 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf

 

If ongoing access to the floor beneath the rear seats is a desirable, you may want to look at  the discussion Gen 1 Rear Seat Mod. by Forum member BlackHawk, which details his modification that allows the rear seat cushions to be flipped upward.

 

 

40 Percent Seat Cushion Illustrations

 

 

 

60 Percent Seat Cushion Illustrations 

 

 

And finally, photos and illustrations in the discussion Rear Seat Delete! by Forum member TangerineDream can provide you a look at the rear floor landscape after the rear seats are removed.

 

Good luck!

 

Thanks for this.   In my old Xterra the rear cushions came out by pulling on 2 O rings and they popped right out (otherwise the seatbacks won't fold flat ).   The other thread you pointed to had the whole car fail to start post removal.   

Might be safer for me just to use an air blower to blow out the dog hair under there and use my carpet cleaner wand to shampoo from under the seat.    Fronts are infinitely easier to deal with and remove.   Thanks for all this info!   I never got around to buying the workshop manual after 12 years.   I'm prepping the car for sale as I am moving into a Ford Bronco hopefully soon!

Looking to deep clean the carpets and I was wondering if there is a way to remove the rear seat cushions to get at the carpet underneath.   I have seen on the 2015 and up there are levers to undo to pull the cushions up, but I don't see them on the 2011 with leather model.    It would also seem the seatback and lower cushion assembly are tied together since they have a "powered" fold flat function.  

I've been ignoring a PTU leak that prevents me from filling it up for a bit longer than I should have.   Have there been any TSBs for the 2011 Ford Edge LTD 3.6L V6?    I thought I saw a post a while ago about this being noted for a 2014 or newer but not for a 2011.

So in getting an oil change on my 100K mile 2011 Edge Limited AWD I was informed that the transfer case output shaft was leaking gear oil, and the transmission is leaking ATF.   I had to top both up as the oil change place can't wrench a transmission.

Would these problems be related to the PTU issues I am seeing all over this board from literally 2008 to 2016 or something?     I more likely than not have shavings in the transfer case but the car has not had any issues driving.   (Technician said it has probably been there for quite a while).

I have about 75K on my car right now. I am not sure if they are related, but I had done a LED conversion on my car years ago with bulbs from drivebrite. The headlight that failed is on the same side as LED turn signal I got from them. Both seemed to die around the same time.

Let me check out these links, they all seem to be on point! Might opt for the $90 bulbs if they match and have them installed (installation is about $70 an hour) Buying 2 sounds like a great idea, as I don't want to do this again.

I had a headlight on my 2011 Limited change color from white to pink for a couple of days, then the light stopped working. Talking to the Ford Mechanic, the bulb itself costs over $380 dollars itself!

Has anyone obtained a replacement bulb from other sources (Ebay, Amazon, junk place) and had it work for them? I stopped the repair shop investigating since apparently it takes time to disassemble the bumper to test everything out.

I've seen the video of the guy that replaced them himself, as it isn't a trivial replacement but I want to think about options before either doing it myself, or having it replaced.

Well it was cooler today so no overheating even with regular AC on. Will test out with Max AC and ensure both fans are going.

I seem to have a cascading set of problems that point to problems on the radiator fan or supporting system side.

In the past week, these have happened.

1. Left HID headlight stopped working

2. Battery no longer starts car, replaced

3. Overtemperature alarm goes off after slow drive in 90 degree heat.

4. When at normal operating temperature, both radiator fans off, AC still hot.

5. Fan belt still attached.

Only real modification I've made was to change the turn signals to LED along with shunt resistor installation, which was over 5 years ago.

What would be the prevailing wisdom about the problem? (Bad fans, bad belt drive, cooling module, blown fuse, etc)

These seem to have some up when it finally got warm here. I am in severe need of fluid replacements, which I will have done when i take this in for the problems above.

Yup, I had the original set which were reused housings. I upgraded to the new design (but I think I ordered right when he was prototyping them). One took in water immediately, the next was completely coated in caulk which also took on water. I think the last replacement was sealed, but it only took 5 months to give out too.

I bought the same puddles for a number of years on my 2011 Ford Edge. They've always died despite multiple replacements. I think I have V3s on my car now, but they've gone dark a long time ago. Finally found my original puddle lamps and will reinstall them. Sad, the replacements were awesome but I think water gets int he housing then they die soon after.

I had the same type of fitment issues with the new design puddle lights. It took a lot of odd bending of the connectors to get it to fit back into the base. The connectors are so close together I fear they may contact under any pressure, so I had to wrap one lead in electrical tape just to be sure. My question is since the leads point up, is there any chance that the wires will get caught up in the gears for the power mirrors?

These puddle lamps replaced the older version of the puddles I got from Dan, which eventually failed (little to no light when opened) I think something came loose inside since when I put these new versions on it was nearly blinding. Hope these last longer!

I think my Edge is now experiencing the same problem. The brakes are almost ineffectual at very slow speeds, when going down steep hills I have to push the brakes past the first hard stop in the pedal, where the pedal itself starts to hiss. When stopped on a steep hill and not pushing down hard, as the idle on the engine moves up and down the car slightly slides forward each time.

I just took it in for service, and they said the brakes were fine (70% unworn). I take that with a grain of salt since my battery went belly up 2 months after a previous service during a very mild Vancouver winter.

Should I be taking it back to have them look at it again. There is an extended warranty on the brake booster so I want to get this done if I have to.

At least at the dealer I take my car in for service, they try to actively review TSBs to see what additional service might be required during the visit. On the service record I saw the brake booster, APIM extended warranties without having to ask specifically about them. They also seem to use all of the maintenance tools available to them (inspection reports, maintaining history of previous visits. As people have mentioned before, its all about collaboration but some dealers are more proactive than others.

Seems maybe this issue will start to creep into 3-4 year old Edges from 2010 or 2011. Mine started displaying this issue last month and the dealer up here in Vancouver diagnosed it as a bad camera that needs replacement. $250 to replace with labor isn't that bad, but maybe this is the beginning of a trend?

I watched the same video and came to the conclusion the 11 year old is a better man than me. Anyway, I found an easier way to do it that reduces the struggle. Using a flat head screwdriver, you bend the wiper blade towards the glass, exposing the crack where the hinge is. Insert the screwdriver as a lever and force the wiper arm up with the head of the screwdriver. Light force should get the blade to separate easily.

Yeah, that was me. With the tails disconnected, we measured 8 volts low amperage on the brake signal light when the turn signals (either one) was lit. I had the dealership install a CURT tow hitch with wiring that I've not used yet, which could be the cause of the issue since it is spliced into the harnesses in the back. I haven't had a chance to get it fixed (haven't been pulled over yet) due to a heavy work schedule, but I should have definitive proof of the wiring fault when things lighten up for me. Dan has been excellent in helping me out throughout it all and I definitely recommend his products. (Since I have them all )

Went through a DaytimeBrightLights upgrade and now I have 2 vertical fog lights for sale. They came off a 2011 Ford Edge Limited and should fit the front slits from a 2011-2013 Edge. They are in pretty good shape and don't show any wear.

Asking $40 for the set and buyer pays for shipping.

Selling the left and right (non-lighted) charcoal black door sills from a 2011 Ford Edge Limited. These sills are for the front left and right door sills, containing a brushed aluminum scuff guard with Edge logo). These were used for about a month before being replaced by the lighted sills and don't show any wear.

Going for $80 OBO

I am looking to sell either in the Vancouver BC or Bellingham WA area. These would be awkward to mail but I can ship if the buyer covers postage.

Had the same problem on my Edge. Had to go through 2 different visits. One to address a TSB that called for drilling out some ball bearings in the transmission. Another visit was to have a programming update to the ECM to change the shift points. Once that last fix was done, the car acts completely different and completely eliminated the problem.

Finally got the chance to install the full kit:

* Replacement Tail Lights

* Front and back LED turn signals

* LED Backup lamps

Can't say the process has been smooth. I've had problems since the install. First off, the right side intermittently is flashing fast (as if the turn bulb is burned out), however both front and back LEDs are flashing brightly, just fast. Maybe this is a intermittent short in a load resistor? 80% of the time, they flash normally.

That isn't the main problem.

When using either turn signal, or with the hazard flashers, the brake lights (both sides) flash at the same time, but weakly. If I engage the left turn signal, the left turn signals light, as well as both brake lights (left and right) but not at full strength. Same thing happens for the right one, or both at the same time, both back bottom brake lights flash weakly. I fear this problem would get me pulled over.

I went and rechecked the wiring, trying with regular bulbs, redoing the wiring (changing polarities). If connected wrong, things don't light, but connected correctly everything works, but the bottom 2 brake lights flash.

Not sure what to do here. If it can't be fixed I will have to go back to regular lighting. The look of the new set up is incredible, just wish it worked better!

It seems investing in a car created by a forward-thinking company might pay off for 2010 and newer owners with MYFord Touch.

There are currently 1 million cars on the road with AppLink installed so this upgrade program to add another 3.4 million is pretty substantial. In fact, it’s a pretty hefty expansion of the platform. To qualify for the upgrade, your car, SUV, or truck must be MY2010 or newer. The upgrades will also not all come at once and instead be rolled out over the next year. As for your phone, AppleLink Supports iOS 5 or newer and Android above 2.1 Eclair. As of the press release, over 60 apps were compatible with AppLink

http://geekbeat.tv/ford-to-offer-applink-upgrade-to-3-4-million-sync-customers/

From the press release:

• Industry-leading Ford SYNC^® AppLink^™ will be available on 3.4 million more vehicles later this year; free upgrade enables current Ford owners to access and control smartphone apps via voice command

http://media.ford.com/content/fordmedia/fna/us/en/news/2014/01/03/ford-offers-sync-applink-for-3-million-more-customers.html