Linty

David - I have a 2010 SEL that started with a stock CD changer audio system (Pioneer OEM head - honestly rated at probably about 15 watts RMS into 4 ohms per channel). It sounded OK up to about 2/3rds max (with the tone controls set flat - if you boost the bass, the max clean volume setting will be lower). The volume of the stock system was almost enough for me, it was the poor sound quality (and lack of low end) that I couldn't take. The stock speakers are the weakest component, in my opinion. I replaced all door speakers as a first step and it helped quite a bit. good luck Linty

Sammy - looks awesome! - using a piece of wood to mount the electronics is a good idea. Sorry I missed one of your earlier questions about the re-Q turn on connection - I used the high level smart engage method so no additional turn on wire is needed - the re-Q senses DC voltage on the input lines when the head unit is turned on and turns the re-Q processor on - be sure to use the white and white/red left front input wires if you choose this method (and don't worry about DC on the speaker leads, this voltage is floating and not referenced to ground) thanks for the pix - well done Linty

Hey Sammy - I agree, it is easier to get to the speaker wires on the driver's side. I'd like to see some pix if you can. btw - thanks for the note - this forum has helped me out a bunch, if I can repay by helping someone else - that's the point I have fun and learn a lot when I do stuff like this ... & with no need to mention my background

good point, that would have helped lower the Q a bit if I ever take it apart, some stuffing will be added (man, I wished I could have fit a 12" JL in there!) Linty

Hi Sammy - The input to the RE-Q5 is from one of the door speakers, and the out put of the RE-Q5 is to the input of the sub amp (it's mono) (I tried adding a second input to the RE-Q5, but it didn't make any difference) - you can go with their smaller version, but I may add a 4 channel amp for the doors at some point, so I went with the larger one hope that helps here's a link to a helpful website http://www.reqsound.com/

The boxes are sealed and total about .45 qft - I stapled some 1" convoluted open cell foam to about half the interior walls - after some testing I decided that combination sounded pretty good, so I stopped there. The suggested box design from Polk didn't say to fill it, so I didn't (I don't like taking the speaker in and out unless I have to). btw - I also added some Dynamat around the inside of the plastic cargo area cover (behind the grill mount) just in case I created a rattle. thanks Linty

Roger - I installed Polk DXi570s in all doors (except for the Ford connector, they are a drop-in replacement) - not the top of the line, but a great value - the OEM speakers had harsh upper mids and flabby bass - the Polks would sound even better if I added a bass blocker cap or an amp with a HPF - I will get to that step later this summer - Linty

Here are a couple of pix of my recent subwoofer project. My 2010 Edge came with the stock audio system and sounded rather weak. I replaced the door speakers with Polks (big improvement). I wanted to add the JL stealth sub, but it was over my budget, and I haven't heard very good news about the Ford OEM sub. I liked the stealth idea, but that meant the cabinet would be small. Decent low extension is more important to me than way high dB levels. I decided to add a Polk MM840 with a Sony XM-ZZR3301 amp. I added the small enclosure to the right of the main cabinet to gain some interior volume. The two cabinets are connected with a 2.5 inch 90 degree ABS elbow, glued in with epoxy. The cabinets are attached to the body in several places with brackets. It sounded pretty good, but not quite balanced the way I wanted with the door speaker level (especially since the bass content decreases as the volume is increased with the stock head unit). I added an RE-Q5 processor and it fixed the balance and decreasing bass problem (highly recommended if you want to keep the stock head unit and add amps). The amp is just behind the back seat, I cut the foam block to fit. (no heat probem) I am still thinking about adding an amp for the door speakers. Linty

also - check out the REQ5 unit http://www.crutchfield.com/S-xYHU9MA6AxP/p_236REQ5/MTX-re-Q5.html I added a REQ5 between the stock 6-CD head unit and my sub amp and it fixed a couple of my problems good luck

Crutchfiled has them http://www.crutchfield.com/p_12071048/Speaker-Harnesses.html?search=ford+speaker+adapter&nvpair=FFBrand%7cMetra thanks

Hunter306 - yes, the Polks are a drop-in fit - I did have a bit a trouble lining up the 4th screw & hole - I suggest loosely fitting all four screws in before fully tightening them - I used a small screwdriver to help line up the holes in the speaker frame with the mounting holes in the door. Also note; the Ford connector doesn't fit the Polks - you can purchase an adapter (~$15), or cut the connector off and add crimp terminals. The keyed side of the Ford connector is the positive side (I believe the positive wires are solid color - not sure if this is universal). Let me know how the head unit install goes thanks Linty

I replaced all 4 of the stock door speakers with Polk DXi570s. The OEM speakers have un-treated paper cones with foam surround and a whizzer cone (~$10.00 from a speaker supply house). They are graciously marked as 25W. The Polks dramatically improved the sound (especially the harsh upper-mids from the whizzer cone - typical of this design with no crossover). Next steps will be to add a sub with an amp and perhaps a 4-channel amp for the door speakers and then maybe a re-eq. Special thanks to Paul's Ford Edge Door Panel Speaker Replacement Guide - nicely done. 2010 Ford SEL Edge with 6 CD changer. If anyone wants these stock speaker, you can have them for the shipping cost.