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Hi, So last spring I decided I wanted to get HIDs installed on my Edge Sport. After driving for a winter and seeing how bad the stock lights are, it wasn't much of a choice. My purpose for this wasn't for the "look", although that's just a by product, but for practicality. So last spring I purchased my first HID kit for the edge. I had limited knowledge of how HID kits got setup but after a little bit of research I found which type of bulbs I needed. Since this was my first time installing HIDs I decided to buy a kit locally. At the time I didn't know the difference between 35 and 55 watt kits etc so was leaning on the retailer a bit for some help. The kit that was ordered in for me was 4300k bulbs with 35w ballasts. Getting some help from the installer I seen how easy it was to swap out. Turning the lights on they fired up and left for the drive home all happy. I stopped through a service station to fill up and when I started up the vehicle again, I noticed off the reflection that the lights didn't light up. Even by turning on the switch. Unsure if something was wrong I began the troubleshooting when I got home. The next day of testing and contacting the retailer, it was suggested I needed a relay. Hearing the price they wanted to charge me for the simple relay, I was unsatisfied and began doing more research myself. Finding this forum and some help from some other board members I decided to go with a different HID kit. Seeing how affordable the DDM kits were, it was worth a try. I got my new DDM kit in (55w with 5000k bulbs) mid summer and began swapping out the other install. This kit acted quite a bit different than the 35w kit I had previously installed. One major difference and improvement is that the lights would shine when the switch was put to the on position even on a sunny day. With the 35w kit, if the vehicle was in the sun, the lights would not turn on at all. I decided at that point to order the DDM wiring harness and see if that fixed my problems current issues (along with some 4500k bulbs). That however introduced other issues as it would continue to blow my factory 10A fuse for the low beams. Contacting some board members they had upped their fuse to a 15A fuse that fixed their issue. Happy that I had sort of working headlights again I pulled the wiring harness out ( I wasn't comfortable adding 50% allowable current through the factory wiring) I left them as is until this past month. Over the winter I toughed out these main problems : 1. Lights would only turn on if the vehicle was in park 2. Flickering/flashing head lights at dusk or dawn or low light levels when the vehicle would normally auto turn on the lights 3. Auto lights would not work, would not turn on headlights unless in complete dark (night or garage) 4. No Day time running lights I decided this spring that I wanted to get these problems fixed. The straw the broke the camels back per say was one night after working late I was about to head home. It was the coldest night of the winter, around -27 degrees Celsius, and my lights wouldn't stay on. Pulling over I turned on the lights once the vehicle was in park, they would come on for about 10 seconds, flash and then go out. At that point I knew I had to get these problems resolved. Back to researching... My first step I wanted to give the DDM wiring harness another try. I picked up some more fuses including 15A that was recommended. The Odd thing is, hooking up the wiring harness again didn't blow the 10A fuses. Sadly however it didn't help with any of the problems listed above. Doing more research at other forums, there were some members talking about the quality of wiring harnesses range a fair bit. That the cheaper kits require more power for the switching module to initiate the draw from the battery. At that point I contacted DDM support, their stance was the wiring harness is working as designed and the ballasts have an auto turn off that if they are getting alternating power that they just turn off. After hearing a lot of comments about the quality of DDM and seeing first hand not being able to handle a colder night I decided to order yet another kit. This time I went with the retro fit kit. I also got the wiring harness with it after reading how much better this harness is. When this kit arrived, I can speak to it's quality. The wiring is heavy duty and is double housed on some wires. Very impressive. I went with a 50w kit and 4300k bulbs. After pulling all of the DDM components out of my edge and installing the retro fit I had 2/4 problems solved. FYI : When installing the retro fit kit, I also decided to go with the 4500k bulbs, the most "white" color out of the bulbs I have. So there was two problems still remaining. Flashing and very loud hissing from the ballasts when the DRLs should be on, and no DRLs. The auto lights do work however and with this kit, I was able to turn on my lights while the vehicle is in drive (yay!). It was a honda forum that I found the key to fixing the last couple issues. The canadian edge DRL's is not using a lower power current, instead it's alternating on and off. Which causes the flashing of course... Thanks to some board members on here, a link was posted to http://www.hidextra.com/capacitor/ . For those of you that don't know, a capacitor smooths out an electrical current. This site sells a short cable with a large capacitor built in (save you the wiring) for a pretty low price. Adding this to my setup fixed the remainder 2 problems!!. This capacitor cable is currently connected between the bulb and the wiring harness. Factor cable -> HID bulb -> Capacitor -> Wiring harness Switch Module I've been running this setup a week now and everything has been working flawlessly. I have DRLs, auto lights work, the light switch while driving turns on lights etc etc. I hope this helps other canadians as it was a fair bit of trial and error (and money) to get this figured out. Hope it saves you a buck... If you have any questions, shoot me a msg.

Hi, I have a canadian '11 edge sport. I'm just about to start a new thread to tell my story

Hey did you find a resolution to this? I have a DDM 55w kit and have the same issue. I got the wiring harness from DDM and hooked it up this weekend. To my surprise however, it did nothing. The lights act the exactly the same way, flash on auto and will actually only come on if i turn the light switch to the ON position while in park. They won't even come on if I try and turn the switch on while in drive or reverse. And this is all with the wiring harness with relay.

I have around 6500kms on my 2011 sport, and I'm averaging right around 21 (US Gal). My best tank has been 22.3. All tanks have been a mix of highway and city driving.

No, my 35w kit wasn't DDM. I purchased it from a guy in town unknowing how easy they were to install (plug & play). I'm not sure what the make is but it's a descent kit. If i knew at the time how easy they were to install i would have just went with DDM in the first place and save myself a bunch of cash. chalk it up to a learning experience. I have the 5000k 55w kit installed currently and they are definitely brighter. Are you installing more for practicality or for the look?. If you do a lot of night time driving outside of city centres, i'd suggest going with the 55w kit. If you mainly drive in urban environments, then i'd say go with the 35w.

Hi Bova, they're definitely an improvement. Well worth the upgrade over the stock bulbs. I really liked the colour temp 4300 i went with on the 35w kit, although like the threat stated, my automatic switch doesn't turn the lights on when it's dark out. I've since purchased the 55w kit from DDM like kc300c and just finished getting them installed and adjusted correctly last night. I went with a 5000k temp which is nice and bright, but if i was to buy bulbs again, i'd probably lean towards the mid 4000's. the 35w kit wasn't over powering, but offered nice bright light, they still over powered street lights and didn't have any problems with on coming traffic flashing. the 35w kit is excellent... the 55w is just crazy bright.

I read somewhere that the SD cards are "married" to your vehicle too so you couldn't exactly create your own either. I'm not sure if this is true or not but it does possibly open up some possibilities. I think i might be too impatient to wait though, and will probably just end up applying the non nav LOL.

HI, I logged in last night to check and to my pleasant surprise i noticed that the update was available. I also noticed the same as above, it asked if I had nav or not. Currently i don't have nav in my edge, so my question is, what if i tried to apply that update instead of the no nav?. I know the maps need to be on an SD card, which i shouldn't receive in the mail, but it definitely makes me curious if nav could be added with the update somehow.

Sweet, they look great! I've had some more time to play around with this, and my problem runs deeper than just the auto switch. Now this is taking in some assumptions but this is how my lights are acting. On my way to work yesterday, lights worked fine, acted the way they should. On my way home from work however is a different story. The HIDs wouldn't turn on at all even if the switch was on the ON position. Frustrated that I still have issues, I went inside to contemplate. After a few minutes I came out to test again to see that the lights were then working fine in my garage with the door closed and the lights out??? Another observation I had made, at night the instrument cluster brightness settings have a different gauge on the LCD (more bars for brightness) and during the day there are less. It is almost like there is a sensor and if the outside light is a certain brightness it still only supplies DRL power to the headlights, which isn't enough to light them up. This morning they worked great again but it's still dark for my drive to work. Kc300c, did you have day time running lights on your edge? With your kit do they come on during the day I'd you turn them on?

Does anyone have some info, or can share how to disable the daytime running lines on a 2011+ edge?

I got a chance tonight to test the lights a little more. With the switch to the off position and starting the edge, then turning on the lights everything turns on great now. I turned the switch over to auto and the lights remained on, So after I drove a bit and turned off the vehicle, I left the switch in auto. The lights remained on for the timed period as usual. At that point I was optimistic. When I came back to the vehicle howver and started it up, with the switch still in auto, I seen the lights flash on for a second and then went out. Turning the switch off and back on again, brought the lights on but still having an issue with the auto setting.

I'll keep you posted, I didn't get to take it out tonight. I'm trapped in my own garage lol

Update : I got my lights working again. Turning the plug around on the ballast plug got them going again. I tested with a multimeter to realize that the plugs (even though on correctly for the clips) were on backwards. Turning the plug around has them all working again. What I don't understand is how they were working yesterday. I'll have to wait till nightfall to test the auto lights setting.

So apparently after working on them a little more they aren't quite as seamless as I first thought. I understand the shaving now others have mentioned, shave down one of the plastic clips. So I got that done as well as drilled holes in the back caps so I could get those placed back on as well. I get it all back together nicely to find out they won't come on at all now. I reseated all the connections and still no go. I plugged back in one of the stock halogens and they light up, so it's not a fuse, something specific to the HID's. If it was a bulb, ballast or something else, then I'd think one might not light up, but both don't turn on now. The chances of both shorting or getting damaged is very slim. As a long shot, I also unplugged the battery for a couple minutes but that didn't help either. Help, any suggestions? I talked to the guy I got the lights from and he thought I may need a relay. I haven't heard anyone else here mention one and if a relay was required, I'd think they wouldn't have worked from the start.

HI Guys, I just got my HID kit installed yesterday in my '11 Edge Sport, but I've noticed a couple small issues I'm curious if others have experienced. the kit is a 35w 9006 bulb HID kit with 4300k bulbs. It was completely plug and play, no additional wiring and really had no issues at all setting the bulbs into place like some others have mentioned. But I instantly noticed a couple issues : 1. If the lights are set to auto, even when dark enough it doesn't seem to turn on the HID's. If I turn the switch to ON, they still won't come on. I actually have to turn the switch all the way oner to OFF and then back to on again for them to initialize and come on. Has anyone else ran into this, is it an issue with 35w kits maybe? (should have gone with a 55w?) 2. My one light has a really odd beam pattern, the driver side seems to be pushing more light off towards the passenger side road. I'll play around with that today though and see if i can't get that worked out. Being in canada, the stock halogens are always on for "day time running lights". with the HID kit though, the lights aren't on unless you turn the switch to ON. A little concerning but that's a side note. If anyone has any input, please add comments.