All well and good, but why do cars such as cadillac and lexus all use only synthetic fom day 1, if it caused glazing, they wouldn't do that.
5W20 is just thinner oil than 5W30 which is actually used by both Ford & Honda to increase their EPA fuel economies by fractions of a mpg for a specific model, but those fractions allow them to not worry about bigger trucks and such having lower mpg's, since all that matters is the company's average mpg not each car/truck. The worst part about 5W20 is that the dealers buy from the lowest priced seller, which doesn't give me confidence in the quality of the oil. My cougar has 98,000 miles and still averages 32-35 mpg on the highway and I've used full synthetic Mobile 1 5W30 and Purolator filters from 1,500 miles on and have not yet had a single engine related issue. Just repalced gaskets for the intake manifolds 2,000 miles ago and was nearly clean as a whistle inside and my friends at 40,000 was coated in thick black residue.
I would tend to think the ringing has more to do with the way the quick lube is performed than the oil itself. "Sucking" the oil from my engine does not make me feel good about getting my oil changed by a shop, which could cause problems until the seal are properly worn in. I prefer the standard drain (gravity) when performing my own changes.
This isn't saying you aren't right about everything seating, but I'm not buying it all. In the end the important thing is if you have a warranty and they say get a 1,000 mile change, do it, then you won't have any problems if you ever need any work done under warranty. Also, as everyone has said before teach the computer your normal driving habits, but don't be stupid and constantly hammer it as you will most likely have problems in the future.
P.S. Ford's 1,000 - 3,000 - 5,000 is a crock. My salesman just told me that 1,000 was the most important for the warranty and after that just stay on the schedule of 7,500, unless you're always towing then 5,000.