RJG

For those looking at replacing your rear hatch struts.....the Monroe's work great. Hatch goes up all the way...all on it's own now. A more than reasonable price.

Living in Florida...we don't do that......but my New England friends tell me they don't do that any more.....causes more problems than it solves.

Thanks guys. My wife is a Amazon shopper.

Thanks....looks like they show one at a time, so I guess that means you have to order two....they aren't sold in pairs.

The struts on our 2012 Limited Edge are getting weak. They don't hold the hatch all the way up. At dealership they seem ridiculously expensive.

I have used some after market ones that weren't much better than these old weak ones on previous vehicles. Any non Ford sources with good strong struts? Any brand you recommend?

Is there a good E Bay source for Ford struts?

Thanks

Last I heard fluid swaps were around $180.

Thanks....I'll do engine coolant same time.

I have seen a GM transmission in an older V8 BMW. Probably used for it's high TQ rating.

I bought ours at lease end.......knew the car, the history, how it was maintained, low miles garage kept, etc.

But not sure I should have.

The better the lease deal, the less likely it's a good deal to buy. Your residual might be above it's value at lease end. I think I paid over it's value just to get the car I knew. So do your math.

Maybe instead of changing fluid he just changes transmissions every 100K miles. It is a Chevy after all.....

 

(Im joking here. GM actually makes some of the better transmissions)

Don't both transmissions....Ford and GM......come out of the same joint Ford-GM transmission plant? And I imagine they sell to some other brands also.....although none will admit that. And we had a 2005 Mercury Montego FWD that had a 6 speed Aisin transmission.....a company mostly owned by Toyota. Nice transmission....a 6 speed auto with a dip stick.

My vehicle see normal use. Does not have the tow package, but does have a 2" receiver hitch for use with a bike rack. What does a "fluid replace service" for the transmission usually run at a dealership?

As I mentioned above.....our 6 year old garage kept 2012 Limited Edge now has 55,000 miles on it. Drives perfectly smooth. No problems of any kind, except for the SD chips that came in the mail early on. The original tires still look good, not down to wear bars even, but thought I would put new probably Michelin tires on it soon. However....being garage kept, with little sunlight exposure on sidewalls, dealership says tires still fine and safe....but would feel better in rain with deeper tread. Had alignment at about 20,000, will do another with new tires. Just thought I would spend a couple thousand dollars on it....tires, alignment, trans service, coolant, engine service, cabin filter (was changed at 30,000), updated Nav chip, etc....and get it ready for another 55,000 miles. This has been a great car. I can do all this for about the sales tax on a new one.

We have a 2012 Limited Edge that's now 6 years old.....has 55,000 miles on it. Has been a great car. Not one trip to the dealership for a problem. There are no service intervals mentioned for the transmission. Or maybe at 150,000. Do you folks think since our Edge is now 6 years old I should at least replace what fluid will drain out. With no dip sick, do you have to do a total flush? Thanks

I see the A7 (I think) SD chip on E Bay for a really cheap price. They look legit. Anyone buy one of these. I have a 2012 Edge with 2013 maps....A4.

Our 2012 Edge has 2013 maps, as I recall.....after all the free stuff we got during the year after purchase. So question.....where is the best online place to purchase an update for these 2013 maps, and is there a best time of year to do that, so as to get the latest version? Thanks

We don't drive our 2012 Limited Edge on short trips much, and sometimes it sits 4-5 days before it is driven. If I wash it, and then pull in into the garage, then let it sit for a few days..... when I back it out of garage and drive it.....it might take 2-3 miles before right rear brake capiler stops making a noise....like it's dragging. When it finally stops making the dragging noise..... it is OK.

If I wash it, then drive it around the block before putting it away....don't have this issue. Obviously the fix is to drive it around the block after I wash it.

But.....is there any lubricant I can spray in there to stop this? Luckily we live in warm Florida, but imagine if I make a trip to cold wet country, then park car overnight, this could be a problem.

We have a 2012 Limited, live in Central Florida, and the climate control is on all the time. Also....most times run it in recirculate. Set it on auto and 72, and forget it. Cools faster, saves energy, and just works better in recirculate. (also have a 2012 Honda CRV with energy saving button....and it runs in recirculate with button on....is where I got the idea). Our unit is more than satisfactory.

Had a neighbor with an older edge, and he always complained about the low output of his AC. I told him to change the cabin air filter. He didn't know it had one, and his independent garage mechanic who gripped the most about Edge's AC didn't know it had one either.

He changed the cabin air filter, and WOW....his Edge AC complaints went away. I change out ours at 30,000. So don't forget about that filter. Changing often is good. Easy to change....U Tube, etc. Order filter online cheap. Got ours online Ford dealer.

I know what it does. I've built turbo race engines before. Just don't see the point in that vehicle.

No matter....it won't make much of a performance difference. 4000 lb vehicle with a turbo 2.0 engine.....still less than 300 ft lbs tq with 10% more boost....you'll probably just mess it up. And you will need a tune. And that's assuming injectors and fuel system are up to task.

I believe it was also reported they had access to the car before it went on the road. I'm not concerned about this.

Hidden Hitch, Drawtight, and Reese same hitch. Curt different. I got the 2" Drawtight. Neighbor has a 2013 Limited Edge with factory tow package, and my hitch looks pretty much same as his. If your budget permits, look at 1UP bike rack. It's just the best....there is no discussion. I have a heavy duty for 2" receiver with one add on for 3rd bike. So simple to install. Uses security bolts to hold on vehicle.

Put bike wheels in tray, pull arms down on wheels, and drive away. When done, take off car, it folds up. Only issue is it's expensive.

Popular bike forum discussing bike racks. http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=167748

Hidden Hitch, Drawtite, and Reese all owned by same company. They're same hitch with some very minor differences, and name stickers.

I went over to a busy hitch place for a Hidden Hitch, and he showed me same hitch with "Drawtite" on it. Was same as the Hidden Hitch. Installed it is very well tucked up under bumper.

I installed it to use a 1UP bike rack. For 2 or 3 bikes, wheels in trays. It's the rack that folds up neatly. $

What is consensus for best 2" receiver hitch for a 2012 Limited Edge (not Sport). Going by fit, appearance, nearest to factory appearance, no cutting, etc. Did you get it at U haul, or similar? Not going to put on myself. Not necessarily looking for cheapest, but looking for one that is nearest to factory look. For bike rack, so don't need wiring, etc. And the paint job on some of these hitches is not so good.

1UP......amazing how it folds up when not in use.

https://www.1upusa.com/product-quikracksilverdouble.html One of their double racks. Many other to choose.

I've modified vehicles all my life. Yanked engines, rebuilt wih forged pistons, rods, etc. Superchaged, added intercoolers, retuned, upped injector size, fuel pumps, changed rear axles, you name it.

But not interested in midifying our 2012 Limited Edge. It's just too heavy. It's FWD. Would have to change out the trans for more TQ. The AWD not designed for more TQ. I don't think it makes a good vehicle to modify.

Mustang much better platform to start with.

Or for family sized vehicle......Explorer ECO Boost 3.5 or SHO. Most of work already done at a price far far cheaper than you can do it piece by piece. They already have beefed up engine internals for turning up the turbo charger, plenty of tunes available for more boost, already have beefed up transmission and drivetrain, already have higher capacity fuel system, already have increased cooling systems, already have bigger brakes, already have transaxle options, and many other features. A list too long to list for these vehicles.

Better to start with a vehicle already factory done, get a tune, and turn up the boost, and enjoy 500 HP.

Well....If you have a 24 month lease, as an example, and you are paying more per month than if you leased for 36, and you need to extend at your curent 24 month rate, that's fine if you need to for a few months.....but don't keep paying a 24 month rate for 36 months. Why over pay?

That's because 87 octane fuel has slightly higher energy content than higher octane premium fuels. You will always get better fuel economy on 87 (or 85 depending on altitude), as long as the engine tuning and design accounts for it. Modern vehicle knock sensors signal the CPU to pull timing so as not to preignite.

Since 87 is more volatile than premium fuels, it tends to pre ignite, so premium has additives that reduce it's volativity, allowing more timing, so you can get more HP from premium. You gain more HP from more timing than you give up with lower energy content premium fuel.

I understand this is about opposite from what most on here have been told their whole lives. We have always been told Premium is better....marketing.