shumax

Thanks for the information. So, wow - those warranties are expensive! Like, $2,500 for 125k of coverage for 7 years with a $100 deductible. I get it - blow an engine and it pays for itself. I was hoping it would be $1,250-$1,500. May have to swallow that some more. That's a lot of $.

Thanks again!

Shumax

Our 2007 SEL AWD has about 130k on it. It's served us well, but it's about time to retire it.

My wife and I have been looking at all of the Edge line - SEL/AWD, Titanium and the Sport. We drove all three yesterday and she preferred the Sport because of the interior - stitching on the seats, trim panels, etc. Wow. Never saw that coming, but it's her car, so whatever! The 2.0 ECO felt like a rubber band to us. Not linear enough with the acceleration. The 3.5 was nice, but the interior on the Titanium was too bland in black.

So, I found a few 2015 Sports with around 25k-29k on them for between $29k-$32k. They all have the 401A package. $30k seems to be the sweet spot on it based on my location - 44691. I'm curious what I should be looking out for?

I know about the oil pan and water leak. How can I check to see if those have been taken care of? Anything else I should look out for? Where can I look at an extended warranty at? I admit, all of the electronics in these cars has me nervous.

Thanks!
Shumax

New OEM arms in and all is back to normal. Solid and no noise.

Rock Auto had the ARMS back Monday at 5pm and they replacements were on my step Wednesday at 4pm. Now, their service center is 45min. from me, but that's still good service!

Shumax

Yea, I'm not touching another Moog part. I even emailed them direct - no reply. It's not the part, it's the labor charge to R&R that irritates me. I'm not overly thrilled with RockAuto, either; though, I sense that's just how it goes. I was hoping they would just give me my money back. Whatever. Lesson learned - OEM parts when it comes to suspension that carries a high price tag for labor/ R&R.

Shumax

2007 Ford Edge SEL V6 AWD.

Replaced the front lower control arms with MOOG parts at 110,000 miles back on 1/2/16. now, ~18-months later at 128,000, I noticed noise in the front end. Upon inspection, I noticed the ball joints had play in them!

RockAuto will replace the part, but no refund. Too boot, I have to pay to ship them back. I ended up ordering OEM arms for $160/arm as I don't want to deal with this again in 18,000 miles. The cost is in the labor to remove and replace. Very frustrating!

Buyer beware!

Shumax

2007 Ford Edge SEL V6 AWD 128,500 miles.

For the past few months, my wife had been complaining that the brakes would "slip" when stopping. It was difficult to duplicate; however, with time it started happening once a week, one a day and then every stop. No ABS light came on.

I stopped at a Firestone I trust and they found a broken front passengers tone ring. The ring is part of the axle and spins as the axle does. The ABS sensor detects changes and activates the ABS as needed. The ring can become dirty, corroded or, in my case, break.

$260 later, I had a new half shaft installed and was on my way. Works great now. FYI in case others' experience the same. It is certainly unnerving to not be able to stop when you want to!
Shumax

Thank you. I was not aware there were differences, so I appreciate you pointing it out. Sounds like the emergency brake adjustment may be a bit more painful on mine as it won't be self adjusting. I know when you engage the parking brake, it barely holds the vehicle in place on a hill now. So, it needs to be adjusted.

Too my surprise, I checked the pads this weekend and they have over half their life left. They have approximately 60k of wear on them now. I'm shocked. So, I'm not sure I will be digging into this as soon as I had thought. A while back, under separate cover, I had reported they were howling when backing out of the drive. That condition still exists; however, I know there is a part I can install on the caliper pin to reduce/eliminate that condition. My wife hasn't complained about it, so I'm leaving good enough alone for now.

Thanks again,
Shumax

Does anyone have a step-by-step outline, or video, of how to replace the rear brakes on a 2007 Edge SEL AWD? Mine are close and I will be doing them before the weather turns. Of most concern to me, is how to handle the e-brake and then pushing the piston back into the caliper. On other cars, I remember that piston to be a real pain to retract back into the sleeve - you needed a tool that you attached a 3/8" ratchet onto and even then, it worked just OK at best. As it relates to the e-brake, I've not replaced one and am not familiar with how, etc. Further, how to adjust it.

Removal of the caliper from the bracket, etc. is not something I'm real concerned with. Same for removing the rotor.

Thanks in advance!

Shumax

I ended up doing this last weekend. Soaked that bolt in PB Blaster and had no issues getting it to come out - thank goodness. I got nearly 5 quarts to come out as that's basically what I put back in - just short of it. The fluid was dark colored, but did not smell burnt. I plan to do it again in another 500-1000 miles.

Thanks for the guidance!
Shumax

So, perhaps it's because mine is rusty looking, but the one in the photo looks like a bolt that is flush with the case. Mine actually has about 3-5 threads exposed - i.e., the head of the bolt is NOT sitting flush with the case.

Just want to be sure it's the correct one. I think I had better soak that bolt. Last thing I want to do is snap it off!

Shumax

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v324/shumax/Mobile%20Uploads/B8864AAD-A0C5-4637-B608-817BBD9B2FAB_zpsxiztasdu.jpg

Is the rusty bolt the drain plug? This is a 2007 AWD, FYI...

I've been trying for 30min. to link a photo from my photobucket account, but the link won't transfer. UGH!

Does anyone have a photo of the drain bolt? I climbed under our 2007 and all I saw was what appears to be a 10-11mm bolt that is sticking down from the tranny.

Thoughts?

Thank you,

Shumax

macbwt - sounds like your version is more of a "flush" and that's what worries me. I.E., would it disturb something and cause more issues than it is worth? Even an exchange, with suction, would chance disturbing sediment in the tranny. I'm sure I'm a bit cautious based on my experience in the past...

Dooh! I hate when I over pay for things like this. Poop. Thanks for pointing this out; I definitely plan to stick with the OEM fluids. Thanks again!

Ordered a jug (Mercon V) that is 5 quarts off of Ebay for $41 shipped to my house. I will drain and fill. What, drive it 500 miles and do it again? Then, another 500 miles and do it yet again??

Thanks for the replies! So, what kind of fluid goes into the tranny? Think I will buy 15 quarts and do the drain and fill three times on my own. Thanks again!

2007 SEL AWD with 119,000. I am about to have the PTU flushed out. It was done last at 55k when they replaced the seal under warranty. I'm more comfortable flushing this unit out as I know it can get eaten alive with heat and gunk. What came out at 55k was nasty stuff.

The transmission fluid has never been flushed. The reason why goes like this: 15 years ago, I had a higher (100k) mileage tranny flushed out as a preventative measure. Before I did so, it operated fine. No rough shifting, etc. Immediately after the flush, it started to slip. Several thousand dollars later, I had a new transmission installed on my nickel. Needless to say, I'm a bit uneasy about a tranny flush these days.

I plan to keep this car another two years, so it will have about 140-150k on it at that time. It's drive mostly on country roads to and from work for my wife. Speeds vary between 25-55mph. I looked at the fluid and it's full, but slightly brown, but does not smell burnt. The tranny shifts smooth and works fine to me.

What are everyone's thoughts on having it done versus leaving it alone?

Shumax

Can someone give me some direction on where to find the low frequency damper for a 2007 Ford Edge? The brakes on ours HOWL when backing out of the garage in the morning. No scrape, or squeak - HOWL. I am thinking about giving these a try as everything looks good on the brake system in the rear, otherwise.

Thanks!
Shumax

Thanks for the help, everyone. I put everything on today and it went smoothly. After flushing the brake fluid, too, the pedal feel is more firm and there is far less travel. Stops well and no noises or odd vibrations. Very happy with it.

115,000 on original brakes is amazing! My wife drives the car and is very easy on it. I'm not sure it's been above 4k RPM before! The rear brakes were replaced at 65k and I suspect they will need it again before long. We paid the stealership to do it then; I will try it myself this time.

Are there any good tutorials out there on the rear pad/rotor replacement procedure? As it is, when she backs out of the garage in the morning, the rear brakes HOWL like a cat with it's tail cut off. It's horrible. Not a squeak, but a loud howl.

Thanks again, all!
Shumax

Our 2007 AWD with 115,000 miles starting making a rotational grinding noise when coming to a stop. I looked and the inside of the drivers front rotor is scored rather badly. Plenty of meat left on the pads, to my surprise. I'm on OEM brakes in the front, so I ordered new OEM Motorcraft rotors and pads for the front. Hey, if the OEM set went 115,000 miles, I think I will replace with the same thing.

$200 later, they arrive at my front door from Rock Auto. I unpackage the rotors thinking I would see shiny rotor surfaces. Nope. They are entirely grey. Think primer gray. Is that the new "normal?" Please tell me I don't need to have these "turned" a bit to get the primer off? I am hoping the new OEM pads will grind through that and allow the shiny mating surface of the rotor to come through.

It's been a while since I replaced pads/rotors, so I was taken back by the primer color of the rotor surface where the pads would "hit." Is that normal now?

I am installing everything tomorrow at noon. Look forward to some input.

Thanks,

Shumax

I guess we'll see if your theory is correct, MAC! I just called Discount Tire, where I got the General's from. Told them what's going on and they are taking them back. Even paying to ship them back. They sold me a set of Blizzak's DM V2's for $100 more. Not thrilled about the $100, but I've never run across a bad Blizzak before!

Have to wait until after New Year's for them to arrive. Stay tuned...

Shumax

The snow tires are General Altimax Artic. I've run Blizzaks, and still do on my Explorer; however, these were highly rated and got good reviews around the web, so I gave them a try. I can tell you that when we ran them last year, I did not have an issue with a shaking steering wheel. Now, they were rotated around this time, so that could have exposed a bad tire, but I have a hard time believing it when the road force figures are 17lbs in the front and there is little weight on the rim. One rim in the back drivers side has nearly 5 oz of weight on it! WOW!

Shumax

Car was taken to the mechanic on OEM rims and Bridgestone Aleza Plus tires with approximately 6k of wear. Even wear and rode smoothly up to 85mph, which the car never sees when my wife drives. Even then, it only shook a tiny bit.

Had all of the above suspension work performed and drove home on the same tire (Bridgestone) and wheel (OEM) setup. Noticed a slight shimmy in the wheel at 55mph, but it went away after 10min. I think the tires had flat spotted just a bit. Once home, I removed the stock tires/rims and installed my other set of rims that have the snow tires on them. Drove to have the alignment performed and noticed that the steering wheel would shake around 70-80mph. The odd thing is that it would come and go. I.E., I could set the cruise at 72mph and, over the same smooth road, it would shimmy for 5-10sec. and then slowly stop and stay smooth for 10-15sec. Then it would repeat. Again, this went on for 10-15miles on smooth interstate travel on my way to have the alignment set.

The separate rims/snow tires were road force balanced to around 17lbs on both front tires. The rear are higher - around 22 and 30lbs. What's odd is that I don't feel anything in the seat of my pants. After the balancing was done, I noticed the vibration in a similar speed range - maybe now it's 72-80mph. Still, the condition persists - driving along the interstate on smooth roads and for 10-15sec. you can see the steering wheel shake a bit. It's not horrible, but you can see and feel it. Then, it goes perfectly smooth. This "cycling" will go on and on.

There is no debris on the wheels/rims, I looked. The only thing that really changed here was the suspension work. I suppose I could throw the Bridgestones on and see what I get. If it continues to vibrate, then that certainly would point to it NOT being a wheel/tire issue.

Does this detail help?

Shumax

How would that explain it not being there before this work being done? It was completely smooth before this work was done. Confusing to me how it could suddenly be a bad tire. Am I missing something here? Thanks!

The tires actually were roadforce balanced - 17lbs up front. So, that's well within tolerance. The odd thing is that the condition was NOT there before all of this work. Could it be faulty parts, or installation?

Suggestions?

Shumax