High Plains Drifter

as of now ther is no "plug" in piece for the Nav systems, Ford intentionally(for more than one reason) didn't allow the nav piece to be utilized as a rear back up camera screen, thus moving the back up camera monitor to the rear view mirror. there will one piece from a this company soon http://pac-audio.com/ I also have a Edge Navigation on my test bench ripped apart in a feeble attempt to get the RGB output from the motherboard(from a car PC) into the nav screen but the refresh rate on the one of sync wires is way off normal standards. you will have to dismantle the nav unit to make either my adapter(or most others) when it's available since it will be interrupting the screen signal. the back up wire can easily be found at the BCM. it's all easy work except for the screen adaptation!

You guys have the most creative issues I have yet to come across :shades: I have only seen this in Aftermarket radio installs using the O.E. steering wheels controls. I will ask a few other Techs and see what I can find out for you. How often does the problem occur? is it consistant with hot or cold? does it happen when turning the steering wheel? if SCV is turned off you have eliminated the chance of the problem being the insturment cluster signal. I would not dismiss the volume control knob on the radio either. Ford is pretty stringent about radio replacement, enough so that in the radio repair form there is a check box if the problem is intermittent and if the problem was verified. if the problem is intermittent I would ask the dealership to reprogram the radio and check the resistantce values for the 2 wires that come from the steering wheel control going to the back of the radio. If the problem is consistant at a approx set amount of time I would tell your dealership to figure it out, Ford does allow for warranty to cover diagnostic time. the fix should be pretty easy once it's found. Which radio do you have?

Factory nav can be added to any Edge If the dealership knows what they are doing it's 100% idiot proof, with the exception of the 08's W/Sync. I have yet to see this happen myself but have heard of glitches in the system after a nav unit has been installed. The hoops I have jumped through to get the Sync to work properly after swapping form a 6 Disc to Nav unit have been nothing even close to repowering the sync! I don't know if this is accepted here, and please accept my apoligies if it's not. I install these for a fair price and can pre-program these and ship the Nav units if anyone is interested. This can only be done on non-sync Edges since I need the truck to program the other modules to make it work properly if it's Sync Equipped NEW programmed Nav unit Gps Antenna I can supply the Nav disc but you can order one yourself for the same price! installation on a Edge takes less than a hour for the unexperienced and is a 15 minute job for the experienced!

if it's a Edge make sure you don't have any metal(keys, gum wrappers, cellphone, parking pass, ipod etc..) in the storage tray above the radio, the GPS antenna is almost directly below the forward portion of the tray. This isn't a common problem but I have had more than several requests to diagnose GPS reception in Edge, Escape and Mustangs. The Nav unit DTC's will only show fault if the GPS antenna has been disconnected or the center pin of the coax is broken, I have seen the antennas only lock down 2 sats with a bad antenna or cable, i'll replace the antenna/cable and it will lock 8 sats without the car moving a inch!

3 and 6 works on all pioneer nav pieces. same buttons will do different things on ford radios all the way back to early 90's. If you were able to view the DTC's in the nav diagnostic menu and had comm failure with the SWC then the radio after the radio was swapped it was not programmed or not programmed proerly when replaced the same goes for having no audio if it's THX. It might also be the wrong radio, either misbuilt or their radio repair center sent them the wrong radio which is pretty common. The radio compatability list almost always has error and says MKX and Edge take the same radio if it's a 2008 MY with Sync they have to reprogram the APIM and ACM if only some of the the buttons on the steering wheel work and will show a SWC POD 2 error in the nav DTC menu Ask your dealership to start from scratch when programming the radio, pull the "as built" Hex codes for the ACM, RSEM, SDARS, PAM modules(APIM if Sync). the VCM/IDS does not always properly take the data out of the old radio if it's defective. the only thing you will lose is your stored presets if they do it this way. the speakers cutting out makes a difference if the MKX is equipped with THX. I honestly have only heard of this issue when the internal amplifier overheats due to to high of volume for a extended time, shorting speaker wire to ground or another speaker wire, or a shorted speaker coil. the other possiblity a plug in the vehicle (back of radio, THX amp, junction behind dash or kickpanel) might not be plugged in or inserted and locked. the nav units do have thermal protection for all of the speaker circuits, so the radio will shut down all of the audio outputs if the head unit goes into thermal mode including audio signal for subwoofer. if its THX there might be a communication fault code either in the diagnostic menu of the Nav or even if they do a network test with the VCM. BTW cloning your DVD are a great idea of backing up, but you never need to remove the DVD unless you are updating it unless I can hack these dang things to play DVD's . I have my own personal 5P and 2008 6P that I use for testing. I have yet to find a error with my copies and I find it hard to believe Navteq would do something like that since my old Alpine DVD's were protected. both 5P and 6P ripped right to my harddrive with no problems and copy with no issues. BTW the 2007 6P gave me issues even from a new disc. I didn't bother cloning since the techs at Navteq said thay had a few bad discs go out. if I overlooked any issues post them back up or PM me

http://www.soniccreation.com/2007FordEdge.pdf I will print out the rest Tuesday when i go into work, if I have the diagrams on my IDS I will post them sooner Don't use the negative park ligh Circuit for and additional lights. Use the Purlple/white high in the kickpanel coming out of the junction box. HTH!

The Dealer installed remote start the single button is at best a piece that can even be done by a shade tree mechanic. Installation is not that difficult but the sacrifice is range. I have managed 250ft on average, not that impressive! I really hope this isn't the $700.00 piece they wanted to sell you! the installation by a professional is less than a hour and with redundancy can be done a little over a half of a hour! The warranty coverage should not make a difference as long as the install is not a mess. I can honeslty say that most ford technicicans get heistant when troubleshooting and diagnosing electrical problems when aftermarket equipment is in the vehicle if the installation likes nice or not. if the install is done correctly and looks like it was professionally done you will have no worries. imo $700.00 for the 6 button Ford/Code Alarm Remote start is also crazy, even if they hook up the rear defroster and illuminated pathway! my most expensive name brand system is considerably less(installed) and has 1 mile line of sight range with a 2 way LCD remote and a warranty that big box stores charge extra for! The I-datalink piece is a good piece in extreme cold when PATS/Securelock will not even work. ther older pieces were known for current draw but have since been resolved. Interfacing with data is a good way to go. when the conventional method works good IMO why sell something that isn't needed! Here are a few references to what else works and is a bit easier on the pocket! Howards Keys 16093 Ford Securelock Key http://howardkeys.com/pdf/AutomotiveKeys/Ford.pdf Directed Electronics 556U (bestbuy should have in stock) around $25.00 If your install shop sells autopage do not accept the UMB-3 bypass. I love autopage but their key bypass fails you don't have to have the Key cut to program to the vehicle, your installer should know the process. Just make sure you take 2 of your already programmed keys so the uncut key can be programmed. Programming the uncut key to your Edge is identical to programming a extra cut key with the exception that instead of inserting the unprogrammed key in the ignition switch and turning the ignition on. you press the remote start button and either have the key in the installed bypass module or just simply insert the uncut key into the ignition switch. when the securelock light on the dash is solid and goes out, the uncut key is programmed! Just make sure when it's all said and done that you make sure all of the features you want are properly installed and all panels on the drivers side are snapped in tight. the kickpanel/scuffplates are notrious for breaking the clips off when not removed properly and the panel will leave a little gap where the lower b pillar panel and scuffplate snap together adjacent to the seat. HTH!

I have been lurking here for a few weeks looking over some of the technical content. I have 11+ years experience in Ford related audio and electronics including Audio, Navigation, Remote starts and other 12 volt integration(O.E. and Aftermarket). I am here to help out where I can so do not hesitate to PM me or email if you need. I will cruise the forums when I can. Devin