Pete K

Changed the plugs this weekend at 130K. All is still well with my repair.

It's been a long time. As stated early in this thread, I repaired my 07 with new parts as per the TSB. 96,000 miles on it now, and no repeat failure. Knock on wood. I may toss in a new set of spark plugs at 100K.

Just to update the thread: After a many month battle, Ford did refund my money for the coil/pcm repair. The new pcm received the latest programming, and this greatly improved the transmission shifting. It is much more enjoyable to drive. The PTO seal eventually did start to leak excessively, and wiping it down every oil change was not an option. I did install the updated seal kit (which included a support spacer). In order to solve the muffler insulator sagging situation, I lightly clamped hose clamps around them. This way they maintain their shape, and still do their job of dampening vibrations. Because the trans shifts better, I would upgrade my rating to a B minus.

My 07 has 45,000 miles, and has never been apart until today. It had no plastic spacer from the factory. The deflector was a bear. I would up chipping a careful groove in it with a sharp chisel. You photo was helpful because it gave me an estimate of where things were, and what to avoid. I had more difficulty installing the new deflector. No matter how much I heated it, it did not "snap" into position as described. I used a driver to re-install the new one, and did not want to hit it any harder for fear of causing harm. Instead of being 3-5mm below the machined edge, it is flush with that edge. I plan to keep my eye on it for a while. If it does pop loose, I have a plan b. It is only a dust seal, so I will cut a slot in it with a hacksaw (a new deflector), snap it in, and dress the edge and seam with a bead of RTV. This way, it will stay put, deflect debris, and be easily removed next time, with a razor slice. Based on the design as I see it, I will likely be installing another intermediate seal couple of years down the road.

Plenum Gaskets and plugs are $50. It took me 2 hours, and I am certain a dealership can do it in 1 hour. Unless the dealership hourly rate is $160-$320 dollars per hour this us not reflective of the going rate.

Ok, I have completed this project. I am not suprised they leak. In my opinion, they have no choice due to the poor design. Pass side half shaft (including the attached intermediate shaft) is close to (if not more than) 3 feet long. About midway, the shaft is supported by a rigid mount. The end in the PTU is only jigged by the splines. I am shocked that Ford did not install a bushing or bearing into the opening of the PTU intermediate shaft bore. In my opinion, it has to move around and compromise the seal. The good news is that the most recent kit not only includes a replacement seal, but it includes a plastic collar that installs on top of the seal. The intention is to use the intermediate shaft bore to support the seal, and the new collar, assisting to take some of the load off the seal, during the wobble. The plastic seal is a semi-rigid plastic, so I cant imagine it going 100k miles, or more.

I will dig into the book and try to find them.

Thanks for the fast reply. I believe my understanding of the unit, and my terminology was wrong. Intermediate Shaft Seal is what is leaking ATF on mine. My manual shows the following torque values: Drive Pinion Nut- 27 inch lbs Driveshaft to PTU output flange bolts- 52 Foot lbs Fill Plug- 15 Foot lbs PTU Cover Bolts- 24 Foot lbs PTU Support Bracket Bolts- 52 Foot lbs PTU to Transaxle Bolts- 66 Foot lbs

Did you replace the output shaft seal, or the seal that is between the trans and PTU? You snap any photos?

My humble thanks!!

I didn't find anything is a seach. I will snap many pictures, and possibly do a write up on it.

Looking for the TSB in the title that references the PTU fix. If anyone has it, can you send it to my e-mail? vrodpete@msn.com Thanks.

Has anyone performed the PTU seal replacement themselves? Any tips or tricks?

Gear oil looks like motor oil. Lighter color when new, and darkens to black as it ages, and absorbs dirt. One tool that can narrow it down in a hurry is a $50 UV dye kit. Dump in a little bit of the dye, drive for a day or 2, put on the magic glasses and turn on the light. It will glow green, all the way back to the exact leak point. Once you onw one, you will wonder why you didnt buy it years earlier.

Yup.

Sounds like gear oil leaking out of the PTO, and landing on the middle of the exhaust pipe. Don't discount the possibility of a PTO leak beacause it has been fixed once. Many have struggled with multiple leaks over time.

Based on my experience, this will yield nothing. You will speak to someone who does not know what a PCM or coil is, then they will explain it is not under warranty (thus supporting their dealer). When you ask to advance the complaint process, or speak to a higher authority, they will tell you it ends here. Approx 3 weeks later, you will get a letter in the mail that politely tell you to go away, and the matter is closed. *I hope you speak to someone more helpful than I did. What worked for me was going back to the family owned dealership that sold me the Edge, and explain to them that Ford has placed me in a situation that would prevent me from being a return customer. Being the great people they are, they fought for me internally, and won. I can say that you should do everything you can, as soon as possible. Restitution after the fact took me 4 months.

Just to update my situation, I received a check for full re-imbursement covering 100% of my out of pocket repairs.

Just to update my situation, I received a check for full re-imbursement covering 100% of my out of pocket repairs.

My initial impressions of my 2007 (bought new) were pretty good. The only thing I remember bothering me was the drivers seat clunking when pulling to a stop. In 45k, it has not gotten worse, so I have learned to live with it. Trans was weird shifting, and I got used to it as well. During a recent PCM replacement (and nescessary re-flashing of the PCM), it seemed to have taked the shift flare completely away. Mine turned out to be pretty "tight" with none of the common, little annoyances that sometimes happen.

You have expressed your opinion in the other thread as well. It doesnt matter at this point, and I don't have the time or resources to debate the chain of events I was present for. That isn't what this thread is about. If I had this info at my disposal (TSB) before I was denyed, I am near sure my results would have been quite different. Moving forward, I hope to help as many people as I can, not be taken advantage of by a less than honest dealer. Every post helps move it closer to the top of the list in a google or bing search.

Very glad to help. Unfortunately, I was denied, and wound up spending something like $1400 or $1500 out of pocket to do mine myself. Although you are the only person to date to reply to this thread, I have received 11 inquiries on my vrodpete@msn.com email for a copy of the TSB. 10 have replied back that the document saved them a boatload of money. Not sure if the 11th guy was denied, or just did not reply back with info. Once shafted by my dealer, my main focus was to try to keep this "selective warranty situation" from happening to others. The only upside for me is that the pcm reflash (needed to make the brand new PCM work) did correct alot of the poor transmission shift qualities that were annoying since new.

Double Post.

If it looks like a duck, quacks like a duck, and swims like a duck, it's a duck. You have a bad alternator. Replace it, and the belt, and enjoy the ride.

I know what I would do. I would locate a late model salvage yard that has guaranteed used parts, and have them installed by somone I trust, outside of the dealership. Immediately upon complation, the for sale sign would go on the window. Having been through the ecm thing, I feel your frustration. In my case though, dealer told me to take a hike with 44,000 miles, so I ate the total replacement cost.