bbf2530

Costco guy once told me that N leaks out slower over time versus O - but this could be BS FAIK

Hi Lex. :D Yes, the Costco tech was correct.

Some of the major benefits of Nitrogen are:

1 - It is less affected by temperature variation. Regular compressed air can lose/gain up to 1.5psi per 10*F fall/rise in temperature. Nitrogen does not have this problem.

2 - As akirby stated, Nitrogen does not hold moisture as compressed air does, so it can lead to less oxidation/decomposition of the inner structure of the tire.

3 - As you were told, you will see less pressure drop over time, due to the fact that Nitrogen molecules are larger than Oxygen molecules, so they leak less readily. This only applies to incidental leakage, not actual punctures. If you get a puncture, your tire will still leak like a sieve.

Downsides are:

1 - Unless you get a "Free Nitrogen Fill" (keeping in mind that there is no free lunch), you are now paying for something you usually can get for free (compressed air).

2 - Once you have a Nitrogen fill, you cannot use regular compressed air to top off a low tire without losing all of the Nitrogen fills benefits. You therefore need to have a shop/Service Station readily available with Nitrogen fill equipment.

All of that being said, a pure Nitrogen fill is more "idiot-proof" than compressed air. However, a smart vehicle owner will still need to check their tires as religiously as before.

In addition, the TPMS systems are calibrated to warn you once the tire pressure has dropped 25% below the "Manufacturers Recommended Pressure". I believe the psi "recommendation" for the Edge is 34psi. That means you will not even get a warning until the psi in your tires has fallen below 25.5psi. That is already well into dangerously low, possible catastrophic tire failure at high speed levels.

I check my tires often, so feel no need for the Nitrogen fill (maybe I'm just cheap? ). For those who are a little more lax on vehicle maintenance, I can see how the Nitrogen fill could have benefits. Just understand that the new TPMS systems and a Nitrogen fill do not make your tires maintenance free and idiot proof.

And contrary to some well intentioned but incorrect information that has been posted in the past (not in this thread, but by other members in other threads), Nitrogen will not improve the ride/handling or MPG's of any vehicle, assuming that we compare apples to apples (two vehicles, one Nitrogen fill, one Compressed Air filled, with the proper psi in their tires). In other words, 34psi of Compressed air will give the exact same MPG's and ride/handling as 34psi of Nitrogen.

Whatever everyone decides to do, I wish them the best of luck! :beerchug:

Hey guyz,

Recently just brought a 2007 ford edge pre owned, very nice car. While browsing the web at work came across this forum, so this is officially my first post. But I can't find a answer to this one question anywhere on the web. How do you reprogram or even find out the factory code for the keyless keypad on the driver side door? Not sure if anyone will be able to answer this question, but thanks in advance

Hi killermaze. :D According to the Owners Manual, if you do not have the card that came with the vehicle when it was new, and do not know the "Factory Set Code", you will need to go to a Ford Dealer and have them retrieve the code for you.

If you purchased your Edge from a Ford/Lincoln/Mercury Dealer, go back to the Dealer and have them retrieve the code. Otherwise, another Dealer may charge you for the service. The Dealer need only enter your VIN into the "Oasis" System, and if they sold you the vehicle without the code, they should do it for free.

Some forum members have stated that they heard the Factory Set Code is hidden somewhere in the vehicle (on the PCM or - EDITED - on/in the passenger compartment fuse box are most often mentioned), but this has not been verified to my knowledge on the Edge.

Once you have the original Factory Set Code, it is a relatively simple procedure to set up to three personal codes of your own. You cannot set the "Personal Codes" without the "Factory Code". The procedure to set the "Personal Codes" is outlined in your Owners Manual. Personal Codes can be reprogrammed at will once you have the Factory Code. However, the Factory Code is permanent and cannot be reset (according to the Owners Manual).

If you also do not have your Owners Manual, you can download a PDF version here: LINK: Owners Manuals

Just fill in the info for your Edge in the drop down boxes, click "Submit", then click the link for "Owners Guide". Then save the file to your computer.

Hope this information helps.

Good luck! :beerchug:

When I purchased my 2008 White Sand Tricolor, the camel floor mats came with it. After reading some of the threads, I decided to purchase the charcoal (black) floor mats since the interior is two tone.

 

So here's the prob....the camel mats are just plain mats, whereas the black floor mats have the word "EDGE" in raised letters. I like the raised letters, but am wondering why the original camel mats didn't comet that way.

 

Anyone else have this?

Hi Rusty. :D The OEM mats which come in the vehicle from the factory (whether Camel or Black) are not embroidered with "Edge" on them.

You then purchased the "Ford Accessory" mats. You will notice that, compared to the mats which came in the vehicle from the factory, the front mats are a little heavier, a little bigger, bound around the edges (no pun intended), and are embroidered with the vehicle name (the rear mats are not embroidered).

You could have ordered the "Ford Accessory" mats in Camel, and they would have come embroidered also. Nothing wrong here, just the way it is.

Hope this information helps.

Good luck! :beerchug:

Good grief people. A good rule to follow in any forum is if you don't have an answer, don't reply and don't tell people to go look it up.

 

You people have spent 2 pages on arguing over a reply of "go look it up" or "RTFM" and typed way more than a simple answer to the original question. A simple quick answer and this thread would be two posts long.

 

Don't waste you own time (and ours) with needless arguments trying to sift through garbage to see an answer. If you know, talk, if you don't, shut up and quit arguing, being juvenile and creating bad reputations for yourself.

 

bbf2530, go back and read through this thread and see how much you actually typed and wasted bandwith when it would have been better if you knew the answer to state it. If not, pass the thread by and remain silent. You said the answer was in the manual but yet had to go look it up yourself because in fact you didn't know and didn't know if it was in the manual and wound up finding the answer to the original question after all the garbage. Was there a point to all that? Good Grief..... did it make your day brighter??? If it did, you don't belong in a forum.

Hi TN-EdgeSEL. So, let me see if I understand this correctly. You revived a thread which was settled over two weeks ago, to the satisfaction of all involved, to chastise those of us who attempted to help the original poster ("vsutton") by letting him know the answer to his question was in the Owners Manual?

By the way, the correct answer to simple questions can almost always be found in the Owners Manual, that is why it is printed and given to the new owner. Therefore, sometimes recommending "have you checked the Owners Manual, the answer is there" is a perfectly valid answer, whether you like it or not. The person asking the question then has a choice, they can go and look it up in their Owners Manual, or they can wait/hope someone else gives them the answer.

Without much explanation needed, looking in the Owners Manual should be one of the first things anyone does when they purchase a vehicle. As "akirby" so aptly explained, it does not occur to many people that the answers to their questions are most often right in their glove compartment.

For nearly three days, nobody had answered "vsutton's" question, which he had posted in three different forums starting the morning of the 2/28. I decided to assist him by politely letting him know the answer was in his Owners Manual. Instead of ignoring "vsutton's" question, as every other forum member who had read his first post on the 28th had done for three days, I told him where he could find the answer. You now come in, both rude and with a chip on your shoulder attempting to preach to others about a long settled discussion? You're the only one with a problem, so to be honest, tough luck!

There is a world of difference between the advice I gave to "vsutton", which was, "Have you checked your Owners Manual? The answer is there. Good luck with your Edge", and what you incorrectly implied I said, "go look it up". Don't change the facts to suit your ill advised rant.

Maybe you should try re-reading the thread, for if you had read it as carefully as you think, you would have seen the following statement made by me: "If I know the answer to a question, I will post it. If I do not know the answer, and do not have the time to look it up, I will let the person know where they can find the answer. If I do not know where to look it up either, I do not post."

Concise and to the point. "Vsutton" asked for information and received no answer for three days. I did not have the time to download his Owners Manual and look it up for him, so I let him know where he could find the answer. Again, no other forum member had answered him for three days!

If you took the time to re-read the thread, post by post, you would see that the only person who did not complain about being advised to read the Owners Manual for the answer was "vsutton". My answer was polite and only meant to help "vsutton" (who did nothing wrong when she requested help).

Perhaps you should have thought about your own advice first, before posting, since your post certainly added nothing and was a prime example of "wasted bandwidth". My previous posts were neither rude, nor abusive. They provided information. Funny how you felt the need to be rude, when those who were actually involved in the discussion at the time, did not.

If you had any of the superior intelligence you think you just displayed, you would have realized that every word I typed, after my first post, was to answer critics like you, who did not bother trying to find the answer for "vsutton" themselves, they just criticized others answers (correct answers, by the way). Odd how we settled that amongst ourselves, but that fact eludes you over two weeks later. Fine use of "bandwidth".

All I can say is, WOW, all of three posts and you are picking fights with people for no reason, in long settled threads. Welcome to the Forums. :rolleyes:

If it brightened your day to waste that "bandwidth", "good grief"... it would seem you don't belong in this or any forum. :yup:

I would highly recommend your own advice back to you, and I quote "If you know, talk, if you don't, shut up and quit arguing, being juvenile and creating bad reputations for yourself." Face the hard truth, your post was rude, argumentative, and added nothing to a long settled discussion.

Now that I have explained more of the background information, if you truly believe the words you wrote you will now drop it. I will then give you the courtesy of doing the same.

Lead by example, not empty words. :shades:

seems they saved it for the more coveted MKX

Hi Lex. :D The MKX does not have HID headlamps. It comes standard with plain old "Quad Halogen Headlamps". Optional are "Adaptive Halogen Headlamps" (check the Lincoln website).

In other words, it has regular halogen bulbs standard. And as an option, it has Halogen headlamps whose bulbs/reflectors swivel in the direction of the turning wheels.

Good luck! :beerchug:

just out of curiosity, how would one do this?

Hi acupuncture. :D Detailed instructions on how to aim the Edge's headlights are in...of all places...drum roll please...the Owners Manual!

The online version for the 2007 model has them starting on page 76. Yours may be different, so check the Index under Headlamps, then Aiming.

Good luck! :beerchug:

Just got my Edge, it is awesome

 

MSRP - 30495

E-Priced before going to dealership - $28,889

Addt Discount - $ 28,500

CONQUEST and Cash Back $ 2,500

 

TOTAL $ 26,000 before tax

 

This is for White Tri Coat SEL, 18 Chrome wheels and Leather and Sirius...

 

DOes it sound like a good deal? other dealers wouldnt touch this price.

Hi elmwood. :D Assuming that is the correct MSRP, and the Dealer did not tack-on a lot of Fees to that $26,000 total (like "Documentation", "Dealer Prep", "Computer Usage", "Delivery", "Destination", etc etc.,) you got a good deal.

Good luck! :beerchug:

Anybody have a problem with their glass roof rattling? Mine just started this week. Anyone else have this?

Hi PFA. :D Yes it is a problem that some Edge/MKX owners have experienced. There is a fix for it. Make an appointment and take it to your Dealer for repairs.

What I am saying next, I am only saying to try and help you (not to reprimand or chastise): If you had used the search function (top right of page, next to "Help") and typed in "rattling moonroof" (or any close combination of those words), you would have received a list of posts concerning and answering your question. It's just quicker to do that than wait for other forum members to maybe answer your question in a day or two (or more, or never).

Just trying to help.

Good luck! :beerchug:

Does anyone know where the sensor for the ouside temp is located? I notice that the outside temp reads much warmer when I first start driving, but becomes accurate as I drive along. Thanks.

Hi msp0789. :D Well, while the answer is relatively simple, it is harder to explain in writing. The sensors are usually located up front in the bumper/radiator area, off to one side. The reason that the reading is higher when the vehicle is sitting still is because the heat from your vehicle, and the heat from the ground (asphalt, concrete, etc.) will give an artificially high reading.

The sensor is meant to read ambient air temperature. If your vehicle is parked, the ambient air temperature in the area of the vehicle is higher than the ambient air temperature away from a vehicle. This is due to the rays of the sun heating up the metal of the vehicle, the asphalt, concrete, etc, etc.

When your vehicle is moving, the sensor can then get an accurate reading of the ambient air temperature, since the heat from surrounding objects is mostly nullified by the fresh air rushing through the sensor area.

And just to anticipate the next possible question: No, if the vehicle is moving the reading is not affected by the "wind chill factor". "Wind Chill" does not affect inanimate objects.

Hope this helps and is not too confusing.

Good luck! :beerchug:

Hello,

 

No the invoice price I'm referring to is the price that the dealer reportedly pays for the vehicle. the invoice price can be found at edmunds.com or KBB.com. The one thing I learned was that the invoice price on thes websites dont reflect an additional advertising cost which in my case, Northern California Ford daelers, is $450. It varies by region. The Ford dealers may actual pay this invoice price for the vehicles but with all the incentives available to them (almost as much as available to customers) they can sell the vehicle below this price and still make money.

 

Hope this helps.

Hi AlBeThere. :D Thanks for answering my question.

Yes, I knew that information, just wanted to be sure what pricing information you were basing your thoughts on. I guess essentially I just wanted to be sure you knew that information. :stats:

It is not completely uncommon for some novice car buyers to believe that the price on the "MSRP Window Sticker" is the "Invoice Price", making them excellent candidates to be taken advantage of by Salesmen. Just wanted to be sure you were not negotiating under that belief. Glad to hear that was not the case.

As an FYI, and as you already mentioned, a Dealer does not pay the "Invoice price" that the average customer has access to through sites like Edmunds.com, KBB.com, etc. Even taking the FDAF and Fuel fees those sites do not include into account, the actual price a Dealer pays for your average vehicle is well below what many call "Invoice Price".

That difference between the actual Dealer buy price from the Manufacturer, and the "Factory Invoice Price" is commonly called "holdback" (you called it "spifs").

Again, thanks for answering. I am glad to hear you were using the proper numbers for your purchase.

Good luck! :beerchug:

The conquest cash made the deal for me. I drove home our new 2007 Edge SEL Plus last night. Now I'm waiting for the dealer who refused to honor the conquest rebate to call me to see if I'm ready to buy yet.

 

Potential buyers of the remaining 2007 models should be aware that there are a lot of incentives right now to the dealer to move these cars. If you're paying the invoice price minus the customer rebates (2000 + 1000 in my situation), you're paying to much. I have very good knowledge that there is at least another $1040 in dealer incentives in the form of spifs that we're not suppose to know about. Something to think about when you're negotiating.

 

Good Luck!

Hi AlBeThere. :D I am just curious. When you refer to the "the invoice price", are you referring to the price on the "Window Sticker" of the car?

While the question may seem silly to some, we have seen people in the past refer to the "Window Sticker" (MSRP), as the "Invoice Price". Could you tell me where you are getting the "Invoice Price" you are referring to?

Again, I am just wondering.

Good luck! :beerchug:

I tinted out my past car...a 2002 Nissan SER Spec-V...and the tints looked great for about 3 years. After that they began to turn purple. I just want to make sure this doesn't happen again. Is there a tint brand or type which is known to not fade or turn purple??? I know that the factory tints stay true...just want to make sure this happens to the front ones as well.

 

Jim

Hi all. :D I am sure that most of you already know this, but for those who don't: I have read many times that you need to be certain that the Glass Cleaner you are using on tinted window films is "Ammonia Free". Ammonia will turn many/most/all? tint films purple.

I need to add that I do not have tinted windows on any of my vehicles, so do not claim to be a tint expert. I just happen to read a lot, and have a good memory. :read:

Good luck all! :beerchug:

Thanks very much!

 

Was the paint very noticeable on the car compared to the original car paint? I've seen a couple of "touch up" jobs done by a few car owners, and sometimes the new paint looks worse than the scratch

Hi Acupuncture. :D Like anything else in life, it all depends on the amount of love and care you put into it, and the knowledge you have about the job.

I am very careful about the treatment of my cars, and take pride in their appearance. If you take the time to research and ask questions about how to touch up scratches and nicks correctly, it will look very good. If you just slap it on in the sun on a hot sunny day, or on a cold winters day, it will look horrible. It all depends on you.

Also, we do not know just how deep the scratches actually are. You may not even need to touch it up with paint. Perhaps it can be compounded out.

In addition, there is only so much you can do with touch up paint. Sometimes you may need a professional to do the repairs.

Good luck! :beerchug:

Hey guys. Noticed about a 3 inch long scratch on the back of my Edge, right near the hatch door. It's not extremely noticeable, but I'd like to maybe put some high quality touch up paint or something to get rid of the scratch. What do you recommend? Thanks!

Hi Acupuncture. I would recommend you go to your local Ford Dealer (or call the Parts Department of several for the best price) and purchase the Ford touch-up paint. Be sure to know the Factory name of your paint color, or you can find the paint code off of the sticker on the drivers side door jamb.

I purchased the one which has both a pen applicator and a brush included.

They usually sell for about $8-$10.

You can also try to match it with an aftermarket touch-up paint, but I prefer the Ford touch-up paint.

Good luck!

Can anyone tell me if I would be eligible for this offer. I have a Chevy Malibu - "Offer available to current owners of competitive (non-Ford Motor Company) vehicles with valid proof of ownership"

I live in the NY area and considering the Ford Edge. There is a $1000 Bonus Cash for anyone who is eligible - please see below. .

Thanks,

Joe

 

Offer valid:

2/5/2008 - 3/31/2008

Brought to you by: Tri-State New York FDAF

$1,000 Conquest Bonus Customer Cash!*1

 

 

 

Offer Details:

Receive $1,000 Conquest Bonus Customer Cash towards the purchase or lease of a 2007/2008-Model Ford Edge!

 

Program #32584:Offer available to current owners of competitive (non-Ford Motor Company) vehicles with valid proof of ownership. Trade-in not required. Residency restrictions apply. Non-transferable out of household. Take new retail delivery from dealer stock by 3/31/2008. Residency Restrictions Apply. See dealer for complete details

Hi Joe. :D Your best bet would be to visit or contact your local Ford Dealer to ask them that question. That is a "Region Specific" Incentive. In addition, the list of "Competitive (non For Motor Company) vehicles" will most likely be limited. The Malibu, while it is a Chevy, may not be considered a "competitive" vehicle to the Edge (since it is not a CUV/SUV type vehicle). Your Dealer will be able to tell you.

I live in NJ (within the "Tri-State area", and have never heard of it this Incentive. Your Dealer will have all of the details. Just give them the Program # (32584), if they do not know it.

Good luck! :beerchug:

I like the MKX tails better than the edge. I wonder if they are interchangeable

Hi Tiffany. :D No they are not interchangeable.

Good luck! :beerchug:

My 2008 Edge has only 3814 miles and the dealer says that the speed sensor is defective and the car is not safe to drive. The replacement speed sensor kit is on nationwide back order with a delivery date of 24 Feb. The car will be down for a month! Has anyone had the same problem and/or received the same information? Was this problem also on the 2007 models?

Hi JLK. :D This is not a year specific, or widespread problem.

The best way I can explain it is this: Sometimes things break. You just happened to be one of the unlucky people that had a speed sensor break. Some people sometimes have other parts break. Some people have nothing break.

I hope your parts arrive soon.

Good luck! :beerchug:

wow... nice passive aggressive zinger there... :yup:

 

 

 

anyway.. regaurding just this quote you posted from another website, this is not always the prevalent view in all the research one can do.. since the 4300k is more light output than 6000k, it is rather noticeable that they are not stock and in fact conversions. all that bright light and you stand out.

Hi Lex. :D Regarding the first quote: Not passive aggressive at all, pretty much an out and out statement. :yup:

Regarding the copy and paste from the Manufacturer/Distributor website: All credible sites I have seen, state that if you want the best light output to actually be able to see better at night, install the 4300k. Higher "k" output will be bluer and more noticeable as aftermarket and illegal. So, as the Manufacturer states, using "k" output over 4300 will be strictly an appearance over function choice. That is according to the Manufacturer, not my opinion.

Let's look at this logically: Most OEM Factory HID's are 4300k. So, common sense would seem to indicate that "k" output other than 4300 will be the ones that will stand out. Makes sense.

Second: I find it hard to believe that any reputable Aftermarket HID Manufacturer or Distributor informs people to put higher than 4300k on their cars for street use, so that it will be less noticeable, because they all tell you that their kits are illegal for use on the street. In fact, they deny all liability in case you do use them for a street car. If they posted that information publicly, they would be in for one heck of a liability lawsuit.

If anyone has reliable information to the contrary, they should post a link to the sites, so it can be verified.

I am not in the market for these HID kits (my MKZ has HID lights), so if anyone doubts the information that the actual Manufacturer and Distributor of HID lighting states on their company websites, they will need to contact those Companies, and ask them to change their websites.

Again, I am not telling anyone what to do with their own cars. You want to put HID headlights on your car, go ahead. I am only providing accurate information, with quotes and links (as I always try to do), not my opinion. In this way, people can make educated decisions. If anyone believes otherwise, they should provide links to credible sites corroborating their point of view.

Good luck! :beerchug:

OK...so I figured out the problem.

 

The reason the sound is dicey while the 2 sound sources are plugged in is because the AC outlets inside the Edge are always on! This means that even though my Sirius tuner is turned off, it is still drawing power through the AC outlet it is plugged in to. So while I play my iPod through the splitter, there is feedback coming from the Sirius' power supply.

 

This all stops when I unplug that AC adapter from it's outlet. The iPod will then work just fine.

 

So here's a new question...

 

Is there any way to make the AC outlets inside the Edge turn off when the vehicle is turned off?

 

Or...can I incorporate some type of switch to turn off the AC outlets when not in use?

 

Jim

Hi Jim.:D Yes, and yes.

In answer to the first question: Yes, you can always rewire your AC outlets to be wired to a "switched circuit", instead of the "un-switched circuit" they are wired to from the factory. Then it will turn off when the car is turned off. It is relatively easy for someone who knows how.

In answer to the second: Yes, you can always wire in an on/off switch to the current wiring and place the switch somewhere on your console (or wherever you like). Again, an easy modification, for someone who is handy.

However (and not trying to be a wiseguy), it is normally safe to assume that someone who needs to ask the above questions, probably does not currently have the expertise to do the work themselves. Therefore, you would need to pay someone to do it, or learn how to do this type of modification yourself.

The question then becomes is going through that trouble (and the chance of damaging your electrical system/interior pieces) worth it to you, or worth the cost to pay someone else?

In addition, keep in mind that if you should have any sort of other electrical problems later on, and the Dealer/Ford notices your re-wiring, your Warranty claim could (not saying definitely) be denied.

Might be easier to just unplug the AC adapter when not needed? Only you can answer that question.

I am not trying to talk you out of it, just listing the cons that go along with the pros that you already want.

Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi all. :D Well, hopefully Ford will correct the Owners Manual information, so that people know what the true story is.

Good luck everyone! :beerchug:

kali4nia58:

I have the 2008 Limited - and I checked before purchasing that it had the DRL capability prior to purchase. Sorry I don't know abut the SE model.

 

bbf2530 & Hardhawk: My DRL work fine when the headlight switch is at the Automatic position. In fact, I would not have been able to import it into Canada (or more specifically it would have failed the inspection) if at any switch position, the headlights were not on while moving.

 

Of course, as you've all stated, the DRL are off when the vehilce is in park.

 

Kyle

Hi Kyle. :D Obviously as you know, the law is different in Canada and they are required for all vehicles. All I can do is relay what the Owners Manual of US versions say, and what "Hardhawk" was told.

I don't swear by anything else, other than that.

Perhaps the law in the US does not allow that capability? I can not answer that question.

I guess until someone in the US (with a US registered, non-Canadian spec vehicle) can have that "DRL on while set to "Automatic" function" enabled, all we can do is guess.

Good luck Kyle. :beerchug:

are these lights legal??

Hi xtremedge808. :D I am only answering this question because you asked. I was not going to bring it up otherwise, so that people don't get themselves all worked up.

No, these aftermarket kits are not legal for on road use in the United States. Absolutely no aftermarket, non-factory HID retrofit kits are legal for on road, United States use.

If you read the disclaimers on any of these aftermarket manufacturer sites, they will all tell you that they are for off-road use only, and that they take no responsibility for misuse (read using it illegally on the road) of their product.

I can link to several sites if necessary, so please everyone who wants to argue, look for yourselves first. Just check th FAQ sections of any of these Retailers for the answer to the question, "Are these light kits street legal?"

For example, this cut and paste from the VVME site that "kevinb" linked to in post #11 (read the entire paragraph, they play a bit loose with the wording in the beginning):

Are these XENON HID light systems street legal?

Every country and jurisdiction has its own rules and regulations governing the use of automotive lighting. XENON H.I.D. lighting systems that are supplied with the vehicles from the factory are DOT / E approved. Our kits are also made by the same OEM manufacturers that supply all the major car companies of the world. NO XENON H.I.D. lighting system available from any source is DOT / E approved if installed outside of the factory. These kits are not street legal for use on public roads as they are. As a result, we officially endorse the kit for exhibition and off-road use and will only sell the kit to be used for these purposes. We are not responsible for customers who violate the terms of sale in which they will assume all responsibilities for any unauthorized or unintended use other than exhibition or off-road use.

In the end, everyone is free to do as they like with their cars, and I am not telling anyone what to do. However, aftermarket kits are not street legal. Don't argue with the facts I present, argue with the law if you like (just trying to avoid a pointless Internet debate).

Like I previously stated, I would not have even entered this thread, if someone had not specifically asked for the correct information.

Good luck! :beerchug:

I asked my dealer to turn on the DRL's in our 2008 Limited. They were happy to do so at no charge, but they told me that the DRL's work only with the light switch in the off position, so then the automatic feature on the lights would not operate due to the switch not being in the automatic position. The owner's manual said the same thing. Any of you out there with DRL's enables have it work with your light switch in the automatic position? Just curious. We would like the DRL's but like the automatic lights better.

Hi hardhawk. :D I copied the following from the Owners Manual:

Daytime running lamps (DRL) (if equipped)

Turns the headlamps on at reduced intensity output. To activate:

• the ignition must be in the ON position and

• the headlamp control must be in the OFF or Parking lamps position.

As you stated, it looks as though having the DRL's operate while the headlight switch is set to "Automatic", is not possible. At least not without doing some re-wiring of the electrical system (which I would not recommend on a new vehicle still under Warranty).

Good luck! :beerchug:

Got my 2007 sel edge yesterday morning. It was a daily rental with less than 20,000 miles on it. Lots of features including the vista roof and audiophile stereo system. I am on cloud nine with this ride!!! It is the light sage with charcoal leather interior and those gorgeous 18" chrome clad wheels. I'm still trying to figure out how to turn on the heated mirrors and wondering what the deal is with rain sensor wipers? Bear with me, I traded in my 98 windstar for this.

 

I am offered the tricare extended warranty and I think I am going to purchase the additional seven years 140,000 Kilometers out of sheer infatuation with my EDGE.

 

Any thoughts on the ext warranty? Is it discussed on another thread maybe?

 

Thanks

Hi ericbt. :D The heated mirrors turn on when you turn on the defroster. The wipers are not rain sensing, they are speed sensing. They adjust to the speed of the vehicle (to a certain extent), not the amount of rain. And you have to turn them on before they will work at all.

These things (and a lot of others you should know about), are all explained in the Owners Manual. Not trying to be a wise guy, but everyone should really take a look at the Manual. It is very helpful. If the Dealer did not give you one, ask them to provide one.

You can also download a PDF version here: LINK: Owners Manuals

As to the extended warranty, that is really a personal decision. There are pros and cons to both sides of the coin, and you will have no problem finding those willing to fight to the death over their personal feelings.

Keep in mind that the price of the ESP Plans are negotiable, just like the price of a car. Also, you do not have to purchase the ESP Plan from the Dealer where you purchased the car. So shop around at different Dealers and get the lowest price.

There are other threads here dealing with that subject. If you would like my opinion, feel free to ask.

Good luck! :beerchug:

What's agood cleaner to use on sill plates and other plastic pieces in the interior? I've had my dashboard replaced because of a scuff mark I tried to get out with simple green,so I am a bit hesitant to use such a strong cleaner.

Hi Tom. :D I use "Meguiar's Interior Quick Detailer" and "Meguiar's Natural Shine Vinyl and Rubber Protectant" for my car. They do have other interior care products.

LINK: Meguiar's

Of course there are other good products, made by companies like Mother's LINK: Mother's, etc. Meguiar's just happens to be my pick.

You can find either brand at most Automotive Shops, Walmart, K-Mart etc etc.

I would stay away from stronger cleaners, like Simple Green, when cleaning your interior plastics. Usually plain old soapy water will take off any dirt of residue you may have on interior plastics.

If that won't work (like on your scuff mark), it usually means that the plastic is scratched/scuffed, or obviously damaged, and rubbing scratched or scuffed plastics with a strong chemical cleaner will only serve to make it worse. You will possibly discolor the area you rub, and/or scratch it more (as you unfortunately found out).

I'm sure others will weigh in shortly with their favorites also.

Good luck! :beerchug: