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bbf2530

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Everything posted by bbf2530

  1. Hi Limited. :D Things do happen, even to new vehicles. That is why we have a "New Car Bumper to Bumper Warranty". Make a service appointment and let them properly diagnose and repair any and all issues. I am not trying to stop you from soliciting the opinions and experiences of others. However, in the end it really doesnt matter whether anyone else had the same issues as you or not. You are having them and that is all that matters. And the way to have those issues properly corrected is to let Ford and the Dealers Service Department do their job. And the sooner the better. Whatever you decide to do good luck. :beerchug:
  2. Hi Joseph. :D The full answer is in the New Car Warranty Guide which Ford supplies with every new car purchase. The shorter answer is that it can lead to denied Warranty claims on any problems or Warranty issue which Ford or the Dealer feels it may have contributed to. Auto manufactures only Warranty their vehicles exactly as it rolled of the assembly line. Any aftermarket modification can/will lead to Warranty problems. So if you have made engine modifications and later experience any engine related issue and Ford/the Dealership realize the vehicle was modified, you should be ready to eat the bill. Does not always happen, but be aware it may. Again, this is addressed in our New Car Warranty Guide, for those who need more information. Also, keep in mind that a "denied Warranty claim" is different than "void any dealership warranty". It is rare that an auto Warranty is "voided", since that means absolutely nothing will ever be covered under Warranty on a particular vehicle ever again. That usually only happens on vehicles with Salvage titles, vehicles declared a total loss due to flood/accident etc., vehicles caught being used for racing an so on. But "denied" Warranty claims due to aftermarket modifications can and do occur more often than many would think. And just anticipating a common misconception - No, the Magnuson-Moss Act does not offer much protection in these cases. It is written to offer protection to consumers for other purchase and Warranty related issues, not aftermarket modifications which can be even remotely related to a Warranty issue or problem.. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:
  3. Hi colinero. :D Just wondering, did you check them during the day or at night? In most vehicles, they are tied into the ambient light sensor and will not illuminate during the day. If that is not the issue, then if the vehicle is still under Warranty (3 years/36,000 miles), bring it in for proper diagnosis and service. Other than checking bulbs and fuses, tracing an electrical issue over the Internet is fruitless. Keep us updated and good luck. :beerchug:
  4. Hi fish. :D Just as an FYI, so you know what you are in for - To remove the headlight housings, you must first remove the front bumper cover/fascia. EDIT - Just realized I was answering a question in the Edge forums (thought I was answering in the Fusion forums), so while this information is accurate for the Fusion, I am not 100% sure it is accurate for the Edge. If someone supplied information otherwise, i will edit out the incorrect information. Thanks and good luck. :beerchug:
  5. Hi pdilow. :D Want to make it clear upfron that I am not trying to be a wise guy with this answer. So that being said - You have a 2011 vehicle with a 3 year/36,000 mile New car Bumper to Bumper Warrranty. So assuming your mileage is below 36,000 miles, the way you would properly fix it would be to make a service appointment at your Ford Dealership, take it in, demonstrate the issue to the Service Writer and let them properly diagnose and repair it. Since it seems to be easy for you to replicate your issue, do not just describe what is happening. Showing them exactly what occurs helps avoid the dreaded "Could not replicate customers concern", diagnosis. Keep us updated and good luck. :beerchug:
  6. Hi all. :D As a general rule of thumb, snow performance with FWD and AWD vehicles is primarily dictated by the snow handling/performance characteristics of the tires (and driver skill), not the vehicle. SInce all FWD and most AWD vehicles are decidedly nose heavy, they will all handle relatively the same in snow, if the proper tires are used. In other words, it is not the vehicles fault, it is either the tires, the driver or both. In addition, the same tires should be used on all four corners, so if using snow tires, always install four. Never install only two, whether on the drive wheels or not. And yes, of course the AWD version of a particular vehicle will handle better than a FWD version, in the snow with the exact same tires (i.e. tire model, tread depth, age etc.). But when comparing various FWD to FWD vehicles, AWD to AWD, tires are the primary deciding factor by a longshot. Concerning winter handling of the factory Sport wheel/tire combination (I believe Pirelli Scorpions?) - If you need true snow driving capability, plan on purchasing a wheel/tire combination more appropriate for snow usage. Generally speaking, wIde, low profile tires do not drive well in snow. Hope this information helps and good luck. :beerchug:
  7. Hi Jodi. :D Yes, make a return appointment with the Service Department and inform them that it did not "fix itself". If they do not correct the issue this time, either file a report with Ford Customer Relations (number is in both the Owners Manual and Warranty Guide) or try another Dealership. Keep us updated and good luck. :beerchug:
  8. Hi full_. :D Yes, there are various 17" choices which would be usable on your Edge For example: you could one size wider, to a 245/60-17 (a slightly smaller diameter than stock), or a 245/65-17 (a slightly larger diameter than stock) etc.. Also, in addition to the size concerns, be sure you purchase tires with an equivalent or slightly higher load rating than the stock/original tires. However, you should really speak to a competent tire shop in your area and see what is truly available. Or if you are ordering over the Internet etc., speak directly to a representative for the best advice and recommendations, since they will know what they do and do not offer. Let us know how you make out and good luck. :beerchug:
  9. Hi alittleedgy and welcome. :D Blind Internet diagnosis? I would agree with wlepse...loose heat shield. However any decent mechanic could tell you in 5 minutes whether it is a loose heat shield, an engine issue or a catalytic converter problem. Keep us updated and good luck. :beerchug:
  10. Hi Mike. :D There are many existing threads concerning this subject. You can install aftermarket lowering springs. However, if you do install aftermarket lowering springs and later have any issues with your suspension (or possibly even certain drivetrain components), there is a good chance that your Warranty claim will be denied. And keep in mind that a "denied Warranty claim" is much different than "voiding the Warranty". Hope this information helps and good luck. :beerchug:
  11. Hi Tobias. :D To put your mind at ease, I would recommend calling several of your other area Ford/Lincoln Dealers for price quotes. That will give you the best idea as to what the going rate is in your area. Let us know how you make out and good luck. :beerchug:
  12. Hi wlepse. :D In addition to Flood Ford, I would also recommend you call The Harold Ziegler Automotive Group for pricing. See this existing thread for more information, especially my post (reply #3) - LINK - Ford ESP Plan Good luck. :beerchug:
  13. Hi SHUMAX. :D I would start by asking a car-savvy friend to take a ride with you. While you re-create the noise by driving over bumps, potholes, into driveways etc., let him sit in the front and back seat and try to isolate exactly where the sound is coming from. If you can isolate the sound to a particular area, then check all trim, fasteners, wiring harnesses and whatever else is in the problem area for integrity and sound isolation. And just a heads-up: I would not try to remove any trim in the cold weather (unless you have a heated garage) as it will be stiff and prone to breakage. Let us know how you make out and good luck. :beerchug:
  14. Hi Coyote. :D That picture is simply a Photoshop, supplied by frozennuts, of a Raptor grille on an Edge. No one we know of has actually performed that modification. So how much work would it be for someone to do it for real? It would be a custom job. Someone would need to purchase the grille, cut it to fit properly, fabricate mounting hardware etc. etc.. It could certainly be done by someone with the fabricating skills, but generally speaking, if they think it is worth the time and money, most people would probably be better off paying a shop to do it. Good luck. :beerchug:
  15. Hi Jason. :D You will get many opinions, here is one: If he is charging you no more for the "paint sealant" than he would for a good wax "detailing" then go ahead. But if he is charging you extra for this "treatment", then your wallet is getting the "treatment, not your car. No paint sealant is going to be a no-maintenance/permanent treatment. In reality, in many case it will last no longer or not much longer than a good quality waxing. As far as "...the factory only puts on a clear coat over your paint" statement, well what else is he expecting them to to put on it (rhetorical question)? The "clear coat" he is referring to is paint. For all intents and purposes, clearcoat paint is the same formulation paint as the color coat of our cars, just with no color pigment. It is harder and will last longer than any paint sealant, wax, polymer etc.. Yes, regular applications of a paint sealant, wax or polymer treatment etc. is necessary for the full paint protection, but all of them must be regularly reapplied since they all simply wear off. So paying more for a "paint sealant" only helps empty your wallet. So again, if he is not charging extra for his "paint sealant" than his normal wax or polymer detailing, go ahead, But if he is charging more, you are wasting money. Heck, on the other hand you can purchase a good quality paint sealant at your local auto store and do it yourself for a fraction of the cost, if you wish. Additionally, you can browse websites such as Meguiars.com and Mothers.com for professional advice on this and many other car-care subjects. Whatever you decide to do, good luck :beerchug:
  16. Hi swalker. :D Yes, it happens. Like any part/component, there will always be a small failure rate. Let us know how you make out and good luck. :beerchug:
  17. Hi frazi. :D This is my best advice - Noises and rattles can be tricky to pin down. You have a brand new vehicle with a 3 year/36,000 mile New Car Bumper to Bumper Warranty. You make a service appointment, bring the Edge in, clearly explain, describe and demonstrate the rattles to the Service Writer and/or Tech, then let them diagnose the cause and fix it. Let us know how you make out and good luck. :beerchug:
  18. Hi james. :D As choff and Scorpiio stated, in the overwhelming majority of such cases (a single defrost grid line inop), it is a break in the grid line. It is a simple diagnosis and a simple repair. Since all the grid lines work but one, the other "usual suspects" can be eliminated (i.e. a defective switch, bad relay, blown fuse etc.). While I hate to speculate why they did not find the break today (or get to it?), sometimes it is just easier to locate the break when the window has condensation and the defroster is activated. Often times, you can see a tiny spot on the glass which will be clear of condensation, right where the break is. So maybe they want the Tech to check it in the morning when there is condensation present. Or perhaps they wanted to/needed to verify the problem area first (again, with condensation present in the morning). Either way, it should be an easy fix tomorrow. Let us know how you make out and good luck. :beerchug:
  19. Hi gator :D . No, there is not another Edge forum with more posters. As far as the number of topic/thread replies here on the Ford Edge Forum: There are only so many ways to give the same information. Questions #1 and #3 only needed yes/no answers which fishx65 supplied and #4 is a tough one because technically you don't "order" a used car. All you can do is tell the Dealer what you would like and hope he may be able to find something close to it. And the more you specify you want, the more limited your choices will become and the less likely they will find something that fits your "request".. And as far as average mpg's, if you do a search, there are several existing threads with many replies concerning "real world" mpg, although the information is essentially worthless, since the mpg's achieved by differing driving styles in vastly different driving environments can not be compared. Good luck with your search and let us know how you make out. :beerchug:
  20. Hi kc300c. :D As others have mentioned but you must have missed: The title of this thread by miguel2012 (the OP) states "2012 ford edge what you think". Also, miguel2012 asked "what you think" about this video clip in a similar thread (double-posted) which you also must not have seen. Some replied in both threads (and quite politely for the Internet, I would add ). So he did solicit opinions. Hope this makes the sequence of events clearer. Good luck. :beerchug:
  21. Hi Lugnut. :D I completely understand what you are saying. However, out of all the variables, I would probably worry about resale the least (my personal opinion, of course). Short version? For every person who would not buy a used Edge Sport without factory NAV 3-5 years from now or whenever, there is another person just like you. One who has some other type of portable GPS system and will be looking for a used Edge Sport without the added cost of factory NAV and/or vice-a-versa. Therefore, whichever way you choose to go, you lose one prospective buyer and gain another. So there is no way to predict either way what someone will or will not want who looks at your Edge Sport in 3-5 years or whenever. And if you trade it in, it is a moot point anyway. Either way, like any option the overall purchase will still result in a net loss. That is why your best bet is always to get what you want. Also, please note I am not telling you not to get the factory NAV. In fact, if I was purchasing, I would probably order the NAV myself. I usually purchase fully loaded with every option that does not require a moonroof (my own personal preference). I am not trying to influence you either way, other than to convince you to do what you feel is best for you. Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:
  22. Hi Lugnut. :D Everyone above has given excellent advice and reasons to purchase/not purchase the factory NAV unit. I would only add this: Don't worry about what other people order or don't order. Get what you want. That goes for the Navigation system, the Drivers Entry Package, wheel styles/sizes, etc. etc.. And don't worry about resale value later. You rarely if ever get back what you paid for any option, so it still winds up a net loss. In the end, you are the one who will need to drive it and make the payments, so buy what you want. And if you can't find what you want in your local Dealers inventory, ask them to locate it at another Dealership or factory order it for you (although I believe 2012 orders are closed out so you may need to order a 2013, but check with your Dealer for the latest information). In fact, for my own very good reasons, I always factory order my cars, even when one that is exactly what I am looking for may be sitting on my Dealers lot or available for trade from another Dealership (but that is a whole other story). Again, not knocking any previous advice since they are all very well thought out replies, just expressing another perspective (which you are also free to ignore). :grouphug: Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:
  23. Hi nena. :D Well, learn something new every day. :stats: Seems there is an "out-of-New Car Warranty" Genuine Ford ESP Plan available. Here is the Flood Ford link to the contract sample - Link - ESP Sample Contract If you scroll down to "Section C - Type of used Plans" and "Section D - Coverage Terms and Cost" it lists the stipulations. I actually think I have read this information in the past and just completely forgot. They say "...when it goes, it goes quick...", and I guess I am proof of that. What I would recommend is also contacting Harold Ziegler Automotive Group - LINK - Harold Ziegler Automotive Group (866-943-7778). There are several previous threads where I discuss my own ESP price shopping and I found the lowest prices at Harold Ziegler AG and Flood Ford. I eventually decided to go with Harold Ziegler AG for the intangibles. I dealt with Michael Case, and it was a very professional experience, so listen/wait through all of the voice mail system prompts and see if he is still the Ford ESP contact there. At least this way you will have a few competitive quotes. And don't be afraid to mention your previous price quotes to see if you can get a better deal. Also, if you click on the HZAG link I provided and look on the left side, you can find a "Vehicle Eligibility" link that explains the eligibility requirements for the various Ford ESP plans (new/used etc.). And yes, the the "almost $2,000" third party and $2255 Genuine Ford ESP price quotes do sound relatively expensive, considering the pricing of the ESP Plans on a new/still under New Car Warranty vehicle. Unfortunately however, I guess that is what happens with the used/out of Warranty vehicle plans since they naturally incur higher Warranty claims risk. Just my personal opinion, but if you decide to go ahead with one of the plans despite the cost, I would pay the little bit extra and go with the Genuine Ford ESP Plan. The peace of mind is worth it (my opinion, of course). Again, learn (or relearn? ) something new every day. :grouphug: Let us know how you make out and good luck. :beerchug:
  24. Hi nena. :D Just a few added issues/questions here to go along with those already mentioned. First, unless Ford has recently changed the rules for used car purchases or the Dealer is pulling a fast one, you can not purchase a Genuine Ford ESP Plan if you are over the 3 year/36,000 mile New Car Warranty (4 years/50,000 miles for Lincoln). The Genuine Ford ESP Plan (the Ford Extended Warranty) must be purchased before the New Car Warranty expires. And at 58,000 miles, you are outside that window of opportunity. Also, if you were purchasing a Genuine Ford ESP, the Plan time/mileage limits begin with the original in-service date of the vehicle (the day the first buyer purchased it). As an example, at 58,000 miles you would already be outside the mileage limit of a 4 year/48,000 mile Ford ESP Plan. In other words, a 4 year/48,000 mile ESP Plan only extends the New Car 3 year/36,000 mile Warranty coverage by 1 year/12,000 miles and again you are already outside that limit. So if you want 4 years/48,000 miles of extended coverage with a Ford ESP, you would be looking at a 7 year/84,000 mile plan. Can't speak for how other third-party plans word their policies, but that is how a Ford ESP is written. That most likely leaves you with a third party/aftermarket extended Warranty. Most of us here would advise you to avoid those like the plague, as they are usually nothing but trouble. Bottom line though is we can not give much helpful pricing advice until we know who the extended Warranty contract is with. Ford ESP (to my knowledge technically can't be) or another third party Warranty company (and if that is the case, who is the contracting company)? Also, keep in mind that just because you are purchasing the Extended Warranty through a Ford Dealer does not mean it is a Genuine Ford ESP Plan (the only Ford backed Extended Warranty Plan). Many Dealers sell third party/aftermarket Warranties without the customer ever realizing what they are buying until they have a Warranty claim and get the runaround. Post back with more information when you can and good luck. :beerchug:
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