BlackEdition

Today I tried everything I could think of, sprayed lots and lots of WD40 and slammed some stuff hoping something would give out, but nothing made a difference. The latch definitely needs to be replaced. Just my luck!

I ratchet-strapped the door through the passenger chair and the center console and it seems tight and safe enough for now. The door ajar light is also off so I can go by like that temporarily. Hopefully it doesn't give out on me while im on a drive!

Which part do I need?

https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/body/locks-and-keys/door-latch-door-lock-actuator-motor-right-front-p-bt4z78264a26b?pdp=y

https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/body/locks-and-keys/door-latch-door-lock-actuator-motor-right-front-p-8t4z78264a26b?pdp=y

Mine is a keyless entry (first one) but I don't understand why a mechanical latch would care if I had keyless entry or not? It's a bit steep at around USD$194 MSRP (would definitely be MUCH more expensive at my dealers here in Saudi Arabia), and that's even without labor.

I found an aftermarket part that only costs $47 with VAT and free international shipping from the US. Do you think it's a smarter buy or is it not worth the risk, especially because I need to pay a lot for labor?

https://amzn.eu/d/ee3dW7B

2 hours ago, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

all the latches are prone to failure except the liftgate, so far.

 

some have had the passenger front fail some one of the rear ones.

 

i think ford MAY have a bulletin on the passenger front but not sure.

 

i have had door jamb issues on other fords but not latches, i agree. but ford heavily upgraded the electronics in 2011, and that led imho to a number of failures not seen in 2007-2010 MYs.

 

it may be enough to fool the signal wire into thinking the door is always closed, it may not. but people have added a jumper to that wire and been happy with it.

Hi! I remember you from some of my topics 10-11 years ago when I first bought my car. Time flies so fast! Glas to see that you're still ok and active around here.

Anyway, my issue isn't related to any electronics or sensors. Right now I don't care about making the lights turn off right away vs having to wait 10-20 minutes for them to turn off when the car is off. I just want the freaking door latch to catch to be able to close the door so life can go back to normal, even if temporarily. I don't need to open that door again anytime soon. I can't even drive anywhere in this state unless I tie the door with a rope or something to be able to drive, which is very unsafe.

I searched around and read that people suggest spraying WD40 "liberally". I only sprayed a little. Tomorrow I will give it another try, spray the hell out of it, and fiddle with the door handles and locks to hopefully get the latch to catch again. Im guessing something is gunked up or rusted shut because I haven't opened that door much in the last year? I doubt it broke on me out of nowhere for no reason whatsoever. Wish me luck!

Today when im at home, I opened the front passenger door then suddenly the door latch decided to stop working on me! Here's a video showing the difference between the front right and left door latches:
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/1xulsgyj8zpxrumdh5k5r/VID_20240517_181538.mp4?rlkey=kiune4iqpg1e9xu7uwuhhquzg&dl=0

I thought it could be dirt and gunk making it stuck and not latching, but playing around with it and spraying it with WD40 made no difference at all. My battery is also close to dying so I don't want to mess around with the car anymore unless I get some pointers/ideas on how to get the latch to work again because the lights will continue to stay on for about 10-20 minutes since the door won't stay closed.

I googled this but found no results with my same issue. All I found were people having an issue with the door sensor saying that the door is open even though it's closed, which never happened to me.

I did find a great video showing the entire process for replacing the door latch:

Please tell me there's an easy workaround and that I don't need to do all of that in the video? There's no way im going to tackle this by myself, especially not under a 40c weather. Im afraid of going to the dealer and get shocked by some $200-600 just for labor, then the same amount for the parts. This is also a safety issue and I can't drive the car at all, not even to the dealer.

Why now? Why today? This is very upsetting and it happened in the worst possible time as im in the process of moving to a new place. My car is in a brand-new shape, less than 50K kilometers and I take good care of it and it was never in an accident. I also always park in a closed garage so there's no rain/moisture getting to the car.

Kind of weird breaking on me for no reason at all? I never ever drove/rode/owned a car that had an issue with the door latches. What if this happened while im outside? This is pretty insane and feels like it should get recalled. I never slam my doors and I rarely get passengers on that side.

If someone has an idea of getting that door to stay closed without having to revert to some weird and unsafe way like tying a rope to something inside, please let me know. Im going to be a happy man if I can just get it to safely stay closed for now without needing to open it again anytime soon.

http://www.carid.com/2014-ford-edge-headlights/

The oracle ones are too pricey. Almost the price of an entire headlight!

Can I use WD-40 as a lubricant instead of grease? I just thought I would get up there and spray the edges and see how it works out but I don't want to mess anything up.

Mine opens and closes up perfectly but I noticed that it is slower than what it used to be since I bought the car in 2013/5. My warranty ends in about 2 months so I want to test WD-40 and see what happens (if it works out, then all the issue is with lubricating and not the motor) but if it's the motor then I need to have that replaced before my warranty ends.

I saw this first on Chrysler cars a couple of years back, and honestly, I think it's ridiculous. Why do those DRLs go off? is it so people can see the turn signals easier and brighter? It doesn't make sense to me because you can still see them easily even with the DRLs on.

I just received my rubber boots to go in where the plastic dust covers go. I hope to be able to get them in this coming weekend.

Tarey

Any good news? I hope that you got them installed and running perfectly

I just received my rubber boots to go in where the plastic dust covers go. I hope to be able to get them in this coming weekend.

Tarey

Great! good luck!

V-LEDS has a sale 20% off for memorial day and I am going to try the LMZ LED headlights. $200.00 on sale. I ordered the rubber dust covers, but then I saw V-LEDS sells them also. I just have the halogens on my 13 Edge right now. So when I get them installed I will take some pics of the difference and the installation process.

Tarey

Hey man, any updates on your LED headlights? im dying to hear back from you.

Great! can't wait for your results GNERGY.

What do you guys think about the cooling design on these by XenonDepot.com? would they also require removing the dust covers?

http://www.xenondepot.com/9006-LED-headlight-kit-p/9006-led-hl.htm

Im more comfortable with this cooling design even if I was required to mod my dust covers, but im not sure if the cooling is as effective as they claim.

How bad could it be if there was a little to no protection? Can water/dirt get through to the projecters easily? I mean we don't get that much raining over here but i'd still like to avoid those things. Is it very bad to have a little bit of dust in there?

Hey guys, I've been eying this new 45W 6000K LED headlight by V-LEDs:

http://www.vleds.com/led-headlights/9006-hb4/9006-lmz-2725.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xBnpLt8djI8

I have read other posts in the forum about this new kit, but I didn't really find that much info out there so I thought new thread = more visitors & more discussions (hopefully).

I have a 2013 Canadian Edge Sport model, wondering whether this new 9006 kit is all 100% plug & play? Im not that expert when it comes to modifying or changing headlights, and there isn't that much information out there about this new kit and how it performs on our Edges, so im kinda afraid of taking the first hit.

Im also not sure which one to get, 3000 or 4500 lumens? I don't want it to be too bright, but I also don't want it to be less brighter than my current HIDs. I couldn't find any comparisions to decide which one suits me better. I also saw this pic on their website saying it's not compatible with headlights that comes with dust covers:

Does my Edge come with that dust cover? I seem to recall seeing something like rubber dust covers so im not sure how this is going to work. Like I said before, I want a 100% plug & play kit, no trimming or anything like that otherwise i'll just stick with my current HIDs. Im also not comfortable with having fans to cool my bulbs as I will have to check on them every once in while to make sure they are running solid and not covered in dust or any other particles that might prevent them from working or failing.

To anyone who owns this kit on his Edge, please share your thought and experiences as there are a lot of people out there seems to be interested in this product. I would also love to see some pics or videos if possible.

I got the Vleds LMZ LED system in place in the 2013 Edge. I ordered the 9006 45 watt, in 5k. We now have light and they are definitely an improvement. I do notice very slight flickering while stopped but its not all the time. Connections are good, and I thought maybe it was attributed to the auto lights or maybe even a voltage fluctuation due to alternator cycling but it does it regardless of how I have lights switched and climate system set to not cycle alternator. I plan on calling Vleds tomorrow and asking if they have any idea what it may be. Overall we are happy and its nice to be able to see. I did cut a round hole in the back of the headlight caps the same size of the light to allow cooling from the internal fans in the lights.

Any updates? can't wait to hear back frrom you!

@BlackEdition can you post a picture with your plasma amber installed ? Thanks a lot !

I ditched the ones mentioned in this thread. I bought these instead:

http://drivebright.com/home/shop/font-rear-led-bulb-pack-headlight-tail-light-turn-signal-and-reverse-lamps/

These are brighter and much better looking! the build quality isn't that great compared to the PlaZma ones, but they're still awesome.

Once again Mr. Wizard has saved my day, and came through with very valuable information. I may change my screen name, because I may not live up to it... LOL!

 

I bought these LEDs from E-bay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/191263581001?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT and as the original poster stated they did not turn on. after reading this post I bent the contacts of the bulb out a little, and wah-lah! They work. I do notice that they are not as bright as the stock bulbs, so I will switch them out for some brighter ones when I get a chance.

 

I am happy to report that even though I needed to install resistors for the front switchbacks to work with out hyper flashing, after installing the rears I still have no hyper flash even with out rear resistors.

 

I did buy enough resistors to install them in the rear, so if anyone needs them, I have a set of 6olm 50 watt resistors up for grabs.

 

Thanks WIZ!

I suggest checking out Dan's LEDs:

http://drivebright.com

I switched to the kit he sells (Full LED tail lights + front LED turn signals + bright xenon looking reverse LEDs) and they're working perfectly, no complaints at all!

Awesome Pictures! What camera are you using?

Canon T3i.

Sorry to choose my own post as "the best answer", couldn't decide which Wizard's post to choose from.

I'll hopefully add a new post in the future for some infos (to sum up this whole thread into one post so new visitors/members can reach the info easily).

Once again, I thank you Wizard for your continuous help on this. The LEDs are working pefrectly till this day and I couldn't be happier.

I DID IT! I finally got rid of that annoying/embarrassing hyperflashing! I can finally turn on the DRLs at daytime instead of turning them off all the time to avoid getting those damn hyperflashes. Thank you my dear sir Wizard for your help You can't imagine how happy I am.

Im now finally 'completely' happy with all the mods I've done so far, especially Dan's taillights with the LED pack for the fronts & rears, which I was not completely satisfied with because of the hyperflashing that ruined the whole experience for me (I know it wasn't Dan's fault).

Once again, thank you Wizard

I'll be sure to post some pics and videos soon.

So one wire from the resistor goes with the black wire, but what about the second one? does it go with the center or right wire? Sorry I still have no idea which one is the turn signal power and I only get one chance with this. I don't want to do an unnecessary cuts thru the insulation.

Thank you for the info! I decided to throw away those extension wires, they didn't feel good and a safe idea in the first place.

So i'll just be using the load resistor and do it the old fashioned way. Can you help me out with what connects to what? I see 2 yellow and 1 black wire, and the one in the middle seems to have a secondary color:

Hey Wizard, I hope you're doing ok.

*Bump*

So the BCM was successfully replaced under warranty, and now everything is back to normal

Im gonna go ahead and start tapping into the factory wire using the load resistor, can you help me out with this one Wiz? much appreciated.

I want to avoid damaging the BCM again, so just to make sure, would screwing up the resistor connections be another way of damaging the BCM?

As long as you didn't short the connections by connecting any of the power wires to the black (ground) wires or accidentally allowing an uninsulated power connection to touch metal body parts, there is no way the connections caused the BCM problem. Even if you connected the bright (turn signal) wire to the dim (parking light) wire, or vice versa, no damage would result. The lights would look wrong because the bright and dim would be reversed but from an electrical standpoint there would be no problem with the circuit.

 

There is one other possibility and that is the LED bulbs or sockets themselves. If you mistakenly installed CK (also called SACK) bulbs or sockets rather than standard 3157 replacements, you would cause a short circuit that should have just blown the fuse but could possibly cause a problem with the BCM. The standard 3157 socket and bulb has both grounds in the contacts at one end of the socket. The CK type has the two ground contacts along one side of the socket. Using a CK bulb or socket in a vehicle designed for standard 3157 will cause a direct short to ground. You can't determine the bulb type by just inspecting but you can check the socket. Look in the socket and you will see two of the four contacts are connected together - those are the ground contacts. If they are the two at one end (across the narrow portion of the slot) then it's a normal socket. If they are the two along one side then it's a CK socket. You can see an image here: http://www.rzrforums.net/lighting-stereo-electrical/100925-led-brake-tail-lights-2.html

 

Im sure my connection was fine, and no metal was touching the copper wires at that time of use. Im also sure that both the LED bulb and the sockets are the normal 3157 (non-CK).

I may be wrong about the socket, you can have a look for yourself:

And this is how my temporary connection looks like to test it out, not sure if there is something wrong with what I did?

According to the dealer, the BCM is not responding at all. They're gonna replace it under the warranty

I have to go back in 2 days and drop the car so they can work on it.

I don't know what caused the damage to the BCM? I connected the wires same as what you told me before (the blue wire on the plug was in the middle, so I connected that to the other middle wire).

I dropped the car at the dealer about 8 hours ago and explained to them that it may just be a blown fuse, or maybe reset the BCM to get it solved. I don't have any fuses laying around so I thought it would be easier to let them check it for me.

So I decided when I get the car back to just go with tapping into the factory wire and get this whole thing over with...im honestly tired from all of this. I'll also be installing the Flowmaster exhaust system very soon, so no need to make a big deal out of keeping my warranty intact anymore.

After connecting the wires together (without the load resistor) and connected the wire extension to the factory socket to test it out, I had about the same problem as this guy over here after I reversed the LED plug:

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/14592-turn-signal-not-working/

In my case, the turn signals do work ok on both sides, but the vertical LEDs and the parking amber lights are not working. Can I reset the BCM by myself or do I have to go to the dealer? would disconnecting the positive battery wire solve this?