BlackEdition

After hours of hunting around, I finally found the little bugger! $1 for a connector and a bit of wire isn't bad to fix a major cooling issue. I think cutting the burnt connector and attaching the new one should fix it as unplugging it and plugging it back on made the fans work again, but that only lasted about 3 days. I doubt my entire fan wiring or the controller is compromised. https://aliexpress.com/item/1005002760807461.html This is the only connector that I think needs replacing, I just need someone to confirm before I buy and wait 1-2 weeks to get here? (2013 Ford Edge Sport V6 3.7L, without tow package)

I have the same exact problem as your image. My fan connector got fried and now im driving without the fans working. I looked around for the complete wiring harness for the radiator fans but couldn't find any, so I guess the only way is to cut the wire and replace the plug. Anyone knows the part number for the plug alone (or the entire wiring for the fans)? I couldn't find any: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2013,edge,3.7l+v6,1504152,electrical-connector,radiator+fan+motor+connector,2556

Today I tried everything I could think of, sprayed lots and lots of WD40 and slammed some stuff hoping something would give out, but nothing made a difference. The latch definitely needs to be replaced. Just my luck! I ratchet-strapped the door through the passenger chair and the center console and it seems tight and safe enough for now. The door ajar light is also off so I can go by like that temporarily. Hopefully it doesn't give out on me while im on a drive! Which part do I need? https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/body/locks-and-keys/door-latch-door-lock-actuator-motor-right-front-p-bt4z78264a26b?pdp=y https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/body/locks-and-keys/door-latch-door-lock-actuator-motor-right-front-p-8t4z78264a26b?pdp=y Mine is a keyless entry (first one) but I don't understand why a mechanical latch would care if I had keyless entry or not? It's a bit steep at around USD$194 MSRP (would definitely be MUCH more expensive at my dealers here in Saudi Arabia), and that's even without labor. I found an aftermarket part that only costs $47 with VAT and free international shipping from the US. Do you think it's a smarter buy or is it not worth the risk, especially because I need to pay a lot for labor? A-Premium Door Lock Actuator Replacement for Ford Edge 2007-2015 Lincoln MKX 2011-2014, Front Right, with Keyless Entry https://amzn.eu/d/ee3dW7B

Hi! I remember you from some of my topics 10-11 years ago when I first bought my car. Time flies so fast! Glas to see that you're still ok and active around here. Anyway, my issue isn't related to any electronics or sensors. Right now I don't care about making the lights turn off right away vs having to wait 10-20 minutes for them to turn off when the car is off. I just want the freaking door latch to catch to be able to close the door so life can go back to normal, even if temporarily. I don't need to open that door again anytime soon. I can't even drive anywhere in this state unless I tie the door with a rope or something to be able to drive, which is very unsafe. I searched around and read that people suggest spraying WD40 "liberally". I only sprayed a little. Tomorrow I will give it another try, spray the hell out of it, and fiddle with the door handles and locks to hopefully get the latch to catch again. Im guessing something is gunked up or rusted shut because I haven't opened that door much in the last year? I doubt it broke on me out of nowhere for no reason whatsoever. Wish me luck!

Today when im at home, I opened the front passenger door then suddenly the door latch decided to stop working on me! Here's a video showing the difference between the front right and left door latches: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/1xulsgyj8zpxrumdh5k5r/VID_20240517_181538.mp4?rlkey=kiune4iqpg1e9xu7uwuhhquzg&dl=0 I thought it could be dirt and gunk making it stuck and not latching, but playing around with it and spraying it with WD40 made no difference at all. My battery is also close to dying so I don't want to mess around with the car anymore unless I get some pointers/ideas on how to get the latch to work again because the lights will continue to stay on for about 10-20 minutes since the door won't stay closed. I googled this but found no results with my same issue. All I found were people having an issue with the door sensor saying that the door is open even though it's closed, which never happened to me. I did find a great video showing the entire process for replacing the door latch: Please tell me there's an easy workaround and that I don't need to do all of that in the video? There's no way im going to tackle this by myself, especially not under a 40c weather. Im afraid of going to the dealer and get shocked by some $200-600 just for labor, then the same amount for the parts. This is also a safety issue and I can't drive the car at all, not even to the dealer. Why now? Why today? This is very upsetting and it happened in the worst possible time as im in the process of moving to a new place. My car is in a brand-new shape, less than 50K kilometers and I take good care of it and it was never in an accident. I also always park in a closed garage so there's no rain/moisture getting to the car. Kind of weird breaking on me for no reason at all? I never ever drove/rode/owned a car that had an issue with the door latches. What if this happened while im outside? This is pretty insane and feels like it should get recalled. I never slam my doors and I rarely get passengers on that side. If someone has an idea of getting that door to stay closed without having to revert to some weird and unsafe way like tying a rope to something inside, please let me know. Im going to be a happy man if I can just get it to safely stay closed for now without needing to open it again anytime soon.

The oracle ones are too pricey. Almost the price of an entire headlight!

Can I use WD-40 as a lubricant instead of grease? I just thought I would get up there and spray the edges and see how it works out but I don't want to mess anything up. Mine opens and closes up perfectly but I noticed that it is slower than what it used to be since I bought the car in 2013/5. My warranty ends in about 2 months so I want to test WD-40 and see what happens (if it works out, then all the issue is with lubricating and not the motor) but if it's the motor then I need to have that replaced before my warranty ends.

I saw this first on Chrysler cars a couple of years back, and honestly, I think it's ridiculous. Why do those DRLs go off? is it so people can see the turn signals easier and brighter? It doesn't make sense to me because you can still see them easily even with the DRLs on.

Any good news? I hope that you got them installed and running perfectly

Great! good luck!

Hey man, any updates on your LED headlights? im dying to hear back from you.

Great! can't wait for your results GNERGY.

What do you guys think about the cooling design on these by XenonDepot.com? would they also require removing the dust covers? http://www.xenondepot.com/9006-LED-headlight-kit-p/9006-led-hl.htm Im more comfortable with this cooling design even if I was required to mod my dust covers, but im not sure if the cooling is as effective as they claim.

How bad could it be if there was a little to no protection? Can water/dirt get through to the projecters easily? I mean we don't get that much raining over here but i'd still like to avoid those things. Is it very bad to have a little bit of dust in there?