12Edge

I bought through their eBay store: http://www.ebay.com/usr/burkemotopros

The reason I know its them is because the paypal receipt was from hidextra.com and linked to that site for Customer service needs.

I got 35W OPT7 Ballasts kit and am very happy. It all works every time. Make sure you tell them what kind of car you have and they will send capacitors with it. At hidextra that was an extra charge.

The harness requires direct connection to power and uses the connector at the old lamps to power a relay to trigger the relay and power the lights. I wrote an install thread on here if you want to see what they are selling:

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/13572-my-hid-upgrade-with-close-to-factory-lookoperation-for-80/

Went in to the garage the other night and when I opened the door the lights didn't come on. Weird I thought so I closed and re-opened and they came on. Then I left work yesterday and the bell kept going off and the car was saying the driver door was ajar when it wasnt. I put two and two together and realized that that is why the lights wouldnt come on the day before, because the battery saver kicked in and shut the car down.

I got home and when I opened the door the chime was dinging repeatedly. Same for when I got in again later last night but not when I got back home or this morning?!

Cool, thanks. Will give it a try in a few days.

Yeah the shadow. One side is slightly lower than the other from center on my HID upgrade just like in your pics.

Sounds like you shaved the wide tab down to fit in another slot? Which side? Pics or details would be great. Thanks!

I'd be interested in seeing that. I have the same "step" appearance on my low beams.

Ditto, just wiggled i back and forth till it came out. There are 4 or 5 prongs that is what makes it so tough.

You might want to mention what year your vehicle is. I just looked at the service manual for 2011-2014 and it wasnt much help I am afraid.

Lol, I think my response to them would be "So your telling me it is failing properly?" (or by design)

I was told the same thing...ours noticeably drops the cabin temp to the point we can't leave it on. Gave up on pushing this like many issues with Ford since it goes no where and isn't worth the frustration.

If you are talking about a warranty claim then I would try a different dealership.

A/C turns on to dehumidify the air to aid in the removal of moisture from the glass but bottom line, no it should not be cold if your temp is set on the hot side.

Here are the directions. I cut off step one because it was just written instructions to put the vehicle up on a hoist. ( I'm sure to maneuver underneath it more easily and to avoid bending)

My 2012 had 2 bolts at the wheel well on each side and 3 or 4 push pins across the center on the bottom. I bought auto parts store push pins to replace them. They usually have an assortment. Just go to the store with one of the broken ones and tell them you need to replace it (them) and they should be able to get you new ones.

I would suggest flip flopping the bulbs left to right, right to left to rule out the bulb. That is the easiest test.

From there you may want to confirm voltage IN to the ballast when the lights are switched to on (DO NOT TOUCH THE OUTBOUND TO BULB BALLAST WIRES).

Assuming good voltage to the ballast on the side not lighting then trade ballasts to see if the problem follows the ballast.

You are looking at four possible faults basically:

The bulb is bad.

The ballast is bad.

No power is making it to the ballast.

No power is making it from the ballast to the bulb.

Various wiring issues may lead to either of the last two. Frayed wires causing arcing may keep power from making it to the ballast or bulb.

The last one is something you DO NOT want to find out bare handed. The voltage coming out of most ballasts is 25 thousand Plus volts and hurts like you wouldn't believe. The ignition sequence of a HID bulb REQUIRES lots of amperage but once burning they use very little amperage.

Adding:

If you have no capacitor this could be signaling a charging/battery system problem but that is a long-shot.

I know some people will suggest capacitors if you don't have them but honestly, if you are connected directly to the battery that is the ultimate power capacitor in this situation already. They may help but I am skeptical.

If the lights worked when you left the dealership I would not think their work had anything to do it. Has their been a sudden temp change/drop?

I used to run an auto shop and I am VERY familiar with the customers "last touch" perspective when a new problem occurs regardless of how long after the service it occurs.

If you compare the HID wiring diagram page to the Halogen one the only difference is the extra Red and Brown/Red wires to each sides ballast from the fuse-box and of course the Ballast to HID bulb connectors.

The wires that normally go to your halogen bulbs are present in the HID harness and connected the same way they are in the halogen harness to the BCM/switch. They go to each sides ballast instead of the bulb along with the red or brown/red battery power and the ground. The ballast then connect directly to the bulb. This suggests similar functionality to an add on relay harness. The "same as halogen" wires power an internal relay mechanism in the factory ballast switching on the direct from battery power to the ballasts/bulbs.

When I looked at factory cost.... replacement bulbs from an auto parts store are $200 each. Then there are the ballasts. I have seen them for $100 used on eBay each. Then add in the bulb housings/projector units and wiring and it became astronomical. Even the morimotos with harness were 1/10 the the price of doing that!

Sounds like the relay harness gets real involved in wiring it.

I made it involved on my install because I wanted everything tucked away clean neat and like factory. I was also routing aftermarket DRL/turn signal wires.

To do it easily you can pin the relay to the sidewall or even the plastic body of the driver side light housing with a push pin and zip tie the wires to the existing harness to route them across the front and to the battery. The ground wires are REALLY easy because the vehicle harness has a ground bolt almost directly under the light housings on the body rail on either side that several ground wires attach to that you can also use. You cant miss it. Just follow about 6 black ground wires down to a point where they attach to washer(s) and are bolted to the front of the rail that runs from the front to the back of the car.

The harness I got plugged in to the factory wires on the drive side for the headlight to trigger the relay (instead of power lights) and when the relay switches it funnels direct from battery power to the ballasts so you have enough amperage for ignition.

In your case you would unplug the headlamp wire on the passenger side and leave it off, unplug from the drivers side and plug it in to the relay harness to switch the relay on/off and then use the relays wires to power both ballasts.

I would bet a zillion dollars that if you used a relay harness your problems would go away. The point of the capacitor is to provide extra juice for ignition. The ignition sequence requires a lot more amperage but once running the consumption is low. The capacitor may help with your 35W system just fine. If that doesn't do it I would add a relay harness and I bet you would be 100% fine after that.

Wow those look bright!

If you mean my photo keep in mind that it was a dark day, raining and the light/white balance adjusted to let more light in. In a full sunlight bright day and in person they don't look like that. They are absolutely visible and being against a dark background they work fine. The individual LED's are more visible than factory or Dan's since it is a clear front lens. If I recall they claim just under 100lm.

I wonder if you have a 35W or 55W system? I assume since you have the 55W Canbus you are connected to the factory wires for power? The capacitor goes between the ballast and the power supply (relay or factory car harness)

i actually have both ballast grounded to the negative battery terminal. not sure if that is the problem or not. Should the ballast each have their own ground?

A good ground is all it takes. Either to the car body ground points or the battery they are equivalent for these purposes. If you trace the neg. battery terminal you will find multiple points it is directly connected to the car body.

I am starting to wonder if the folks having firing problems wired directly in to the vehicle harness rather than running separate relay/wires for power etc? I know the morimoto set that is canbus ballast has no relay harness by default.

My 35W 5000K lamps have never failed to ignite and I am running two relays directly connected to power with independent wires for each light to the power source. There are also capacitors in the harness but I question their necessity in hind site being connected to the ultimate capacitor... the battery.

DBL definitely look closer to factory and at least the white LED's have the 'diffusing strip' in front of them like factory so you don't really see individual LED's lit up like I can. At a distance I bet they look pretty close to the same. Dan's may be brighter I don't know.

Buying his you are also dealing with a US seller and quicker warranty issues etc... Having the luck I have had with RC helicopters and parts direct from China on eBay for 1/5th the price of buying the same parts in the US i risked it for the 100 savings on this. YMMV if I had more funds I would have bought Dan's lights. I had a long list of wants and not enough money to meet them all and still haven't.

I have those from the first link. I bought from ebay. same picture of vehicle and guy from my auction. They work fine and fit properly. They advertised as cutting off when the headlights come on but the controller unit shipped did not do that. When i spoke to them about it they offered to find one that did it but said the manufacturer stopped adding that feature to prolong the units life ?! I just read that listing this is what they called that feature: Special Features Aurora-assist illuminator

When the turn signal comes on the DRL cuts out on that side and comes on after a couple of seconds of the turn signal being back off.

So FYI, if you read it and it says the DRL's go off with headlights then they probably wont. I may fix it with a relay that switches off when the headlights are on especially since I already have a relay for HID headlights.

How about I tell you that, for me, that light comes on whenever I turn off the traction control, but turns off when the car is turned off since the car always starts with traction control on. If you're truly slilding, the car will beep quite loudly (it's annoying when you're purposely doing it lol). If you didn't bump the button, then I'd imagine something is wrong with your traction control system. Honestly, I don't think it's anything to worry about. I drive without traction control outside of snowy conditions a lot of the time.

Lol, true. I didn't consider that you may have turned it off yourself inadvertently. I assumed had you done so it would have been intentionally

Sounds like omars suggestion of running the self test may be warranted. Just because it is moving doesnt mean its in the right position.

I am assuming since he mentioned 35W morimoto kit this is what he bought: http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=3957

That kits mentions a standalone canbus as an option which I guess replaces the relay?

I think he has defined the problem as the headlights are on all the time and teh DRL/vertical DRL strip go off?

mnubedi, Do your HID ballasts connect directly to the factory wiring harness for the light bulb?

if so perhaps you should get a relay or two in there as suggested in the post above above?

Either the dealer or a competent service center will have diagnostic equipment that can pull error codes and poll it for data and find out what it going on.

If it is just staying on it could be something as simple as a sensor malfunction its really hard to tell.