suprasteve

Update today C1233 code returned and the tone ring has broken again, in a different spot. I think I'll replace the shaft this time around. If I was to do it again, I would also apply some rust converter like POR-15 metal ready as direct before applying the JB weld as I believe the rust continued in the pitted areas. Still, happy this worked for a couple years!

Small update. It has now been 3 years and the repair is still holding perfectly. Happy this is working for others, too. Cheers!

Bringing this thread back from the dead since I couldn't find any repair solutions when I came across this. Ford still does not sell the tone ring individually, but can be repaired. My write up found here: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/22452-abs-tone-ring-repair-fault-code-c0226c0222/

ABS tone rings are prone to failure and happens when corrosion starts between the tone ring and axle shaft. The corrosion causes the diameter of the shaft to increase and can induce enough stress in the ring to cause it to crack. Once cracked, the ring can move around axially and cause a variety of ABS fault codes. Despite having chronic problems on other vehicles, such as the Escape, Ford does not offer a replacement tone ring for the first gen Edge/MKX. My local dealer wanted $420 CDN + tax for an entire new shaft assembly. With the rest of the shaft in good shape, I attempted to repair it myself. After a full year year of driving (including a Canadian winter), I think it's safe to share this with others as a viable way for at least short-term inexpensive repair. $10 is a lot better than $400! Likely OBD Codes to appear when this happens: C0035 - Left Front Wheel Speed Circuit Malfunction C0226 - Left Front Wheel Speed Signal Missing C0227 - Left Front Wheel Speed Signal Erratic C0040 - Right Front Wheel Speed Circuit Malfunction C0222 - Right Front Wheel Speed Signal Missing C0223 - Right Front Wheel Speed Signal Erratic My Edge had a C0226 code The crack may not be easily visible and is difficult to see with a wheel on or the car on the ground. Try to rotate or move the ring by hand or a light pry with a screwdriver. If it moves at all, it is likely cracked and will need to be repaired. here's what I did: 1. Put the vehicle in park and apply the parking brake. 2. Jack the affected wheel up and remove the wheel. remove the hub cap and re-install the wheel 3. Lower the vehicle onto the ground and remove the axle nut. It can be quite tight. A large breaker bar or impact gun may be necessary. 4. Re-install the axle nut by hand. Only thread on enough to protect the end of the threads. 5. Raise the vehicle and secure on jackstands. Remove the wheel 6. Remove the clip holding the hydraulic brake hose to the strut 7. Remove the two large bolts that hold the knuckle to the strut 8. Move the wheel hub/knuckle assembly outwards away from the strut slightly to allow extra play in the driveshaft 9. Hit the end of the axle with a hammer, preferably a dead-blow or rubber coated to avoid damaging the threads. A block of wood or even a direct hammer hit may do the trick. Use your discretion here. This should separate the splines from the hub. A direct hammer hit worked for me. 10. The axle can now be moved inboard while pulling the knuckle more outboard. It may be necessary to gently tap the axle inboard until all the splines are cleared. A brass punch is useful here. 11. Tie up the axle to the coil spring to prevent the shaft from over-travelling and allow a good working position. 12. The tone ring can now be removed by hand. You should be left something like this: 13. The cracked tone ring needs to be cleaned. Emery paper, scotchbrite pads ore very fine sand paper are all acceptable methods. Use the gentlest method you have available. A very fine scotchbrite pad worked well for me: 14. Clean all rust from driveshaft where the tone ring rides. I used a combination of a wire wheel on a drill and 120 grit flap wheel on a dremel. 15. clean driveshaft and tone ring with brake cleaner and ensure fully dry 16. Mix and apply a thin layer of JB weld to both the inside of the tone ring and the axle shaft mounting location. I also applied a small amount to the fracture itself. Finish with the fracture facing up so you can easily see it. 17. Install the tone while slightly rotating until seated. 18. Remove any excess JB weld that may have gotten on the tone ring. 19. Install large hose clamp (~3") and tighten as much as possible without stripping. It should easily close the fracture on the tone ring. The hose clamp will be wider than the ring, so allow the extra width to hang over the front edge. 20. Clean any excess JB weld again with a small screwdriver of other tool, including the fracture itself. 21. Allow the JB weld to set overnight 22. remove the hose clamp. Finished product should look something like this: Re-assemble all components Strut bolt torque - 166lb-ft Axle nut torque - 258lb-ft It is always recommended to get an alignment after any suspension or steering components have been removed. I elected not to, as previous repairs I have done on similar designs has shown it to be uneccessary. My car drives fine and tires are wearing normally. If you haven't had an alignment done in some time, this is a good excuse to do one.