paradiddle1

Where did you get the forscan software and reader. The ABS scanner I got does not have that one

Fixed with used abs unit. Advance track is ok now and pedal is good again

I put in used ABS module and had to use my old electronics as it was programmed. I also was getting advance track codes and they are now gone. Soft pedal is now fixed. So I only changed the HCU unit of the ABS. The 6 lines are not difficult to get off but the 3 bolts for bracket are very tough. No straight shot. 13mm with flex joint and wobble extensions.1/4 turns.

YouTube how to get ABS module out

I just had my brake booster replaced in my 2012 Ford edge SEL. I was ?? fortunate to get in on the extended warranty on brake booster 13N02 warranty. we had discovered while doing a 2 man brake bleed after oil change. Pedal was spongy and then we started to hear a weird whiny buzz when pedal went to floor. So we saw a video on u tube on the 13N02 warranty on booster. Made an appt with dealer and left key in drop box with the drop box envelope that said to check the master as well. ( why not if you have to take it off ). Well the dealer did not call my cell number on the envelope and did the booster and said it may need a master. $900. They had put it back together. The booster was free but not diagnosed very well imho. The pedal was still spongy. I said no thanks got my own Master at O'Reillys installed easy job..... 4 wheel bleed with DOT4 synthetic. Not any better. It has high pedal but then sometimes goes to floor. It was doing that when I picked it up. no better. I read some stuff on air in ABS module and how you need to activate the ABS via scan tool with that capability. I also saw some YouTube mechanic guy who says the he does the activation by stomping on brake while car is half in dirt and half on pavement. I did that - could feel the abs come on. Now I get a Service advance trac. setting. I power off and it goes away but pedal is still the same I would say 8 good pedals 1 softy 1 floor is the avg. I teach at a Voke school and asked the 3 auto voke instructors and they looked at me funny about the abs activation even though we did pull up the data on this car and it has that as part of the procedure if the manual bleed does not work. so... any one have any thoughts ? I was an auto parts man for 10 years also and I don't think just part swapping is the issue here. I would say the booster was bad. but now I think its just air in ABS but don't know or want to spend $$ with a bad dealer or an expensive scan tool.

I just had my brake booster replaced in my 2012 Ford edge SEL. I was ?? fortunate to get in on the extended warranty on brake booster 13N02 warranty. we had discovered while doing a 2 man brake bleed after oil change. Pedal was spongy and then we started to hear a weird whiny buzz when pedal went to floor. So we saw a video on u tube on the 13N02 warranty on booster. Made an appt with dealer and left key in drop box with the drop box envelope that said to check the master as well. ( why not if you have to take it off ). Well the dealer did not call my cell number on the envelope and did the booster and said it may need a master. $900. They had put it back together. The booster was free but not diagnosed very well imho. The pedal was still spongy. I said no thanks got my own Master at O'Reillys installed easy job..... 4 wheel bleed with DOT4 synthetic. Not any better. It has high pedal but then sometimes goes to floor. It was doing that when I picked it up. no better. I read some stuff on air in ABS module and how you need to activate the ABS via scan tool with that capability. I also saw some YouTube mechanic guy who says the he does the activation by stomping on brake while car is half in dirt and half on pavement. I did that - could feel the abs come on. Now I get a Service advance trac. setting. I power off and it goes away but pedal is still the same I would say 8 good pedals 1 softy 1 floor is the avg. I teach at a Voke school and asked the 3 auto voke instructors and they looked at me funny about the abs activation even though we did pull up the data on this car and it has that as part of the procedure if the manual bleed does not work. so... any one have any thoughts ? I was an auto parts man for 10 years also and I don't think just part swapping is the issue here. I would say the booster was bad. but now I think its just air in ABS but don't know or want to spend $$ with a bad dealer or an expensive scan tool.

My factory hitch has minimal cutting and hold the plug in the hitch like factory instead of a dangling connector - Ford Trailer wire kit also - check you tube under e.trailer.com - they have some videos on both installs on aftermarket. I can seem to put a link in the post

Nope Option 53G Harness Hitch Upgraded Fans Radiator upgrade Sway control I can understand better tranny cooler though. I've been trying to link the URL but not having any luck

I took my boat and trailer out for a test run on the highway - no modified cooling package. 90 deg outside temp. Runs just fine and the guage didn't budge. the tow package only adds more engine cooling as far as I can see. I check engine temp when I pull over and use a infra red gun as I don't trust that digital temp guage. Boat weight was 2200# plus trailer add 600# so I had 2800# estimated. best tow was using manual in 5th gear to have enough power. I was towing on flat florida highways. I will still add fan and radiator to improve but as-is - its not so bad. I plan at some point to get a 1400# 7 x 12 trailer to haul 1-2 bikes from Florida to NH in summer next year. so I will be pushing to 3500#. 2012 Ford Edge SEL with Ford factory hitch with Ford wiring kit but NO cooling upgrades. Bought the Edge like this thinking it had the factory tow. I'm ok with it as - is but will still experiment adding bigger rad and tow fans

I took my boat and trailer out for a test run on the highway - no modified cooling package. 90 deg outside temp. Runs just fine and the guage didn't budge. the tow package only adds more engine cooling as far as I can see. Boat weight was 2200# plus trailer add 600# so I had 2800# estimated. best tow was using manual in 5th gear to have enough power. I was towing on flat florida highways. I will still add fan and radiator to improve but as-is - its not so bad.

I do not believe you can get the factory tow package ( full package ) after the fact. You get get OEM hitch and a Ford trailer wiring kit but the radiator and fans is very involved. I just bougt a 2012 with a factory hitch and i "thought" it had the full tow package but it does not. with out fans and rad you are limited to 2000# pull. with the factory installed kit its 3500#. I am stuck as my plan was to pull 3000#. I am going to do rad and fan swap but the wiring from fuse box would not be updated. ( factory tow has 2 40a fuses and std has (1) 60a with different guage wire. . Thats why ist not a dealer install under the hood. from the factory it was a $395 option - very cheap !!! The factory tow package did not need more differnt axle, tranny coolers and PS coolers to pull 3500# - just the bigger rad and different fans - I have no idea if the PCM is different but my "guess" is no.

Is there a difference in tow and no tow fan operation? My 2012 non tow runs full blast when on - both fans. usually with ac on (florida) I am thinking because the tow package fans' have a different controller and wiring - that they either run seperate and /or at varispeed

I did some more research on another thread. The other 40a connector is not wired in to the fuse block ( slot# 40) - everything else is the same - except I have a chart that says the tow connector to fan uses 8ga wire vs 10 ga for non tow. I think you are right about the fans working independently as needed. I thought all fans worked that way as my 97 grand caravan does that but I will check. as I am new to the car I think I did here the fans on full blast and no in between. I am going to buy that FOMOCO fan and try it anyway first to see. I will worry about rewire later if it works successfully.

Can you show fuse box like my view to show that difference also ? Thanks

Update - NOT plug and play - I got under the hood. I have the 60a fuse of course in slot #39 the tow would have a 40a in slot #39 amd a 4oa in slot #40 Note that slot #40 has no lug so it is not wired in. the Tow package would have both 40's and the larger 8 ga wire to the plug. same plug controller Now I suppose its possible to change out the radiator for more capacity and also swap the fans for tow fans and keep the 60a but the risk is popping the fuse in extreme conditions. I have no idea if PCM is different.