1004ron

I've got 71K miles on mine with oil changes every 5K miles, with all but one of those done by me. I don't have any issue with the original drain plug, but if I decide to get a different style it would be this Dorman.

Typical for you, and yes the turbo's would also be typical for you. I get 21 to 22 mpg with 60% interstate (70 - 80 mph) and 40% country roads (50 - 60 mph) and reading the forum I'd say my experience is typical of most 2.7L owners.

Is there a "DIY" here?

The bulb I bought doesn't seem to be available anymore - the below appear identical. You can search for H15 and chose a brand you like. https://www.amazon.com/Headlight-Bulbs-White-Daytime-Lights/dp/B088RLPVDB/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=LED+H15+bulb&qid=1631225558&sr=8-4

No, he wants to do what I've done, and what's in the links I posted above, replace the halogen DRL's with LED's - not touching the HID's. Not sure if he found the links useful.

your English is just fine, and actually pretty good considering its not your first language. Yes, I meant leak-down test. Diesel Smoke tells YOU a Story... - Cost Effective Maintenance

A code can be stored without the CEL being on - that was the case on my Sport. I had a hesitation a few times after filling up, and my OBDII device showed no codes, then later I bought an OBDLink MX+ and with that you get free Ford specific downloads, and it showed an evap code, so I'd suggest that you take it to Autozone and see if they can find a code, or consider a new OBDII scanner. Amazon.com: OBDLink MX+ OBD2 Bluetooth Scanner for iPhone, Android, and Windows : Automotive Enhanced OEM support for Ford, GM, Mazda, Nissan/Infinity, Toyota/Lexus/Scion, Honda, Hyundai, Kia

How was that determined?

Have you decided to live with it, or still planning on getting rid of it? - used car prices are really good now, so you might want to consider your move now.

That's only half correct - yes the fluid will go down just a little as the brake pads wear, but that will be no where near the low level warning. There was a few posts here a while back about dealerships not knowing the correct bleed procedure of the ABS unit.

Yes, it could be injectors, but could also be poor compression - best get a compression and lead-down test done and have the injectors tested by a professional service facility. What's the mileage? What's the service history?

Does it look normal to you?

The source of the leak could be any one of the many brake components (calipers, master cylinder, ABS unit, ........), and without an inspection there's no way of knowing.

None of those are auto electrical specialists - mechanics usually only have a very basic knowledge of electrics. https://www.google.com/search?q=auto+electrical+service+Norfolk+Virginia&ei=DkgqYc6kKLmJwbkPy6StmAE&oq=auto+electrical+service+Norfolk+Virginia&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAMyCAghEBYQHRAeOgoIABBHELADEMkDOgcIABBHELADOgsIABDkAhCwAxCLAzoGCAAQFhAeSgUIPBIBMUoECEEYAVCMyQNYh80EYNbYBGgBcAB4AIABuAGIAZAIkgEDNi40mAEAoAECoAEByAELuAECwAEB&sclient=gws-wiz&ved=0ahUKEwjO44bQ9tPyAhW5RDABHUtSCxMQ4dUDCA4&uact=5