1004ron

Excellent pictorials.

If its the drive joints, they've got to get really bad, and loud, before they become unsafe to drive.

That sounds like the Constant Velocity joints are bad, and they're not too pricey to get them replaced at a drive-shaft shop. Look under the car at the drive-shafts and see if any of the rubber boots on the drive joints are leaking lubricant - these joints usually last long if the rubber boots stay in tact.

That spec sounds the same as my 2017 Sport, but something that seems strange is the mileage, 3.5K vs my year younger Sport at 56K. Great to find one with such low mileage, as long as there's an honest verifiable legitimate explanation. I have no interest in add-ons but a forum search will produce a few threads on that. The dealerships aren't usually influenced with cash because they get their money from the finance company or you.

Bad interpretation on your part with regards the light - coming on and off while the engine is running means that the pressure was switching from above and below the minimum pressure required for the engine to operate safely. The light should always be assumed to be legit until such time it has been proven otherwise with a pressure gauge. The light on for a minute or two is enough to do damage and a couple more to destroy the engine. My guess is that your wife will agree to listen when she sees the repair bill.

The light that came on is a low oil pressure indication and that means STOP - it's not an oil level indicator - take a look at the owners manual. Although the owners manual covers this, I believe it should be a little more persuasive. If the engine was shut off immediately the first time the low oil pressure light cam on, you would not be facing the cost of a new engine.

Pretty obvious it is related. A low pressure indication light should always be assumed to be legit until such time it has been proven otherwise with a pressure gauge, or a new switch. If a low pressure oil light comes on, the driver should be taught that means immediate engine turn off. My thoughts are that you need a new engine.

Welcome. If they did what you say, then you're right in expecting that the threads are damaged.

I cant help with the torque values as I don't use one for this job. In the last picture you'll see the Loctite thread lock stick. I use a jack with a weld/bead/seam protector in the location seen in the attached photo and then position the jack stands, also with protectors, on the locations marked on the beads as the standard jacking points. The position that I have the floor jack lifts the front and rear evenly - center of gravity.

Welcome. A combination of Caps Lock and the lack of punctuation, neither being against the rules, makes for a very difficult read and quite possibly many experienced auto enthusiast members might not be able to decipher it, which may result in your post not receiving any valuable responses. It might be in your best interest to give it another try.

Just an additional tip, first remove the fill, then the drain - I found these plugs very tight, and you don't want drain and then have difficulty pulling the fill plug - yes, there's been reports of that.

2012 Ford Focus I know Sync3 is probably the same, but wouldn't it be best to ask on a Ford Focus forum vs this Edge forum? https://www.allfordfocus.com/ https://www.fordforumsonline.com/forums/ford-focus.15/

If the first picture is "after" then you sure nailed it without going too dark - looks good.

I've seen them for the G2 Edge but nothing for the G1, and Google comes up with nothing.

Same part number of the set I bought except the suffix is AA vs mine are BA Any chance of someone with a steady hand taking a photo showing how the form follows the contour of the trim? FT4Z-16A550-AA https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Genuine-FT4Z-16A550-AA-Splash-Guard/dp/B010X49B1Q