wes8398

Hey, while I have the attention of a couple of you guys, can I ask another question? Why can't I get the hazards to work on this damn thing? I see the "button", but it does not press/release like a button. Nor does it respond to touch. What gives?

Thanks for the help, guys. Those Kirkland batteries really have a good reputation, and a hell of a price point! Don't think I'll be getting a Costco membership just for a car battery tho. After doing some reading, even the Walmart EverStarts seem to be pretty quality batteries... And significantly less money than Autozone, Napa, Canadian Tire, Sears, etc...

.... So now that we're clear on what caused the dead battery (twice), are you guys still convinced that it's a weak/dying battery, or are you thinking there's something else at play? I'm not sure that the accessory delay feature is part of the problem here, since it refers to the accessories (radio, MFT display, etc) remaining on once the vehicle is turned off. In this case, I'm referring to having the key turned to accessory mode, so it's not as if there's some "phantom draw" happening. I've told the vehicle to run the accessories while I was doing other things (washing and vacuuming). I've never had a car kill a battery in 15 minutes of being in accessory mode, but this is what's happening here. Maybe the fans were still running (since we had the heat on when the car was running) while it was in accessory mode, and that killed the battery. Or, maybe the battery is on it's last legs and just doesn't hold much of a charge anymore...? To answer your quesiton: No, nothing is/was plugged into any of the power ports in the vehicle. Of course something weakened the battery - I know that leaving the car in accessory mode will do this. But I've left cars in accessory mode for HOURS before, and they still started fine. This is my question. Does a 'dying' battery hold less of a charge? If so, this would be why 15 or so minutes of the radio/accessories being on drained it enough that it wouldn't start the car. I appreciate the suggestion, but I'm not sure I could trust any Wal-Mart house-branded parts in my vehicles. Maybe I'm just being thick-skulled, but I just don't trust it. I'll look into who manufactures for them and see if I can get some technical details to ease my skepticism. On this note though, can you go with a higher CCA/CA battery without any issues? It just has to be a "group 65", right? The rest is interchangeable?

By the way "RWF78155", are you the same guy that chimed in about Optima batteries on almost every post that came up in my Google search for "ford edge dead battery"? I can't help but draw a conclusion or two here... ;-)

Thanks fellas. I did mention that this drain does NOT happen when the car is completely off, right? I only had it happen with the car sitting in accessory mode. Overnight, etc it still starts fine. Just seems to drain very quickly when it's not being charged by the alternator. Thanks for the reassurances that it's likely just an easy and relatively inexpensive battery replacement.

akirby, thanks for the reply. May I ask how you're so sure about the conclusion you've drawn though? I'm fairly mechanically inclined myself and I've done most of my own basic vehicle maintenance for 10+ years... Can't say I have a WHOLE bunch of experience with batteries, but this symptom is new to me. And a battery being junk after 3 or 4 years is new to me as well. I've read lots of electrically related issues with these Edge's, so I naturally jumped to conclusions such as bad grounds, loose connections, and things like that. If it is most definitely just a matter of replacing the battery, then I'm a happy camper. I just don't want to waste the money on a blind guess though. Thanks again.

Gave the car a wash yesterday and left it in accessory mode for my Bride while I washed it (its winter, so the wash was at a DIY commercial wash). After about 12 minutes, I was done. Unfortunately so was the battery though. I had to push it out of the wash bay and have it boosted to start. Thought maybe water from the wash got in somewhere it shouldn't have but it started fine a number of times afterward. A few hours later I had it sitting in accessory mode in the driveway for about 20 minutes while I vacuumed it out, etc. Again, just a "click" when I tried to start it. Had to boost it again. Is it normal that such a short period of time in accessory mode can kill the battery? I had the battery tested and it was showing 480 CCA's (battery has 540 CCA's stamped on it), and proper voltage. I also put my multi meter on it while running and it was showing proper charging voltage (14.3 ish). Is the battery on the outs or what? Thanks!

I was looking for the same thing yesterday when my '11 wouldn't start. No luck in my search...

I've tried every which way and I cannot get the hazards to turn on. I haven't checked any fuses yet, so I'll do that. Would the signals still be working fine even with a blown fuse?

I have MFT, so its a small button under the screen. My understanding is that some years have a physical push button and other years have a touch button that doesn't physically move. That's how mine feels, but touching it doesn't do anything.

So it should push in and out? Mine doesn't. I had read somewhere that it was a touch button... Does it make a difference that this is a Canadian Edge?

We have an '11 Edge Sport that we bought used a few months ago. We LOVE the car, but MAN is this SYNC system full of annoyances and bugs and weird things! I don't know if it's related to SYNC or not but our hazard button doesn't respond to anything. I'm assuming it's a touch button rather than a push button, but either way I cannot get it to respond to me pressing it, holding it, tapping it, or lightly banging on it. What gives? Anyone have any suggestions?

Hey guys and gals. I know Daytime Brightlites is a sponsor here, and I also know from a few emails that I've exchanged with them that they're a stand-up company. I wondered about opinions/experiences with their HID conversion kits though. I was about to pull the trigger on a 55w TRS kit when I started looking more seriously at DTBL's LED DRL kit. Then I found that they sell HID conversion kits too. After the fantastic customer service I've received, my preference would be to purchase the DRLs and HID kit both from DTBL. But before I do, I wondered if anyone could provide any insight into how their product might compare to the TRS (Morimoto) product...? Thanks in advance!