wes8398

I know you're a trustworthy source around here, but are you sure about the AWD info here? The owner's manual doesn't say anything (in the 30+ pages of "tires, wheels, and loading") more than "It is recommended that the two front tires or two rear tires generally be replaced as a pair". There isn't anything mentioned about special considerations for the AWD system. I know Subaru has a 2/32 (1/8") tolerance between overall diameter from tire to tire; and that's the smallest tolerance I've seen. Audi Quattro systems have a tolerance of4/32 (1/4"). Ford MUST have a tolerance as well, but I haven't been able to find it anywhere, despite my relentless efforts on Google. EDIT: Here's an excerpt from the owner's manual regarding the AWD system. It seems to explain that if there were a significant enough variance between tire sizes, the user would have a number of "alarms" before damaging the vehicle. ALL-WHEEL DRIVE (AWD) SYSTEM (IF EQUIPPED) Your vehicle may be equipped with a full-time all-wheel drive (AWD) system. The AWD system is an active system, meaning it not only responds to wheel slip between the front and rear axles but also has the ability to anticipate wheel slip and transfer torque to the rear wheels before slip occurs. The AWD system is active all the time and requires no input from the operator. All components of the AWD system are sealed for life and require no maintenance. Note: When an AWD system fault is present, the warning CHECK AWD will display in the message center. The AWD system is not functioning correctly and defaulted to front-wheel drive. When this warning is displayed, have your vehicle serviced at an authorized dealer If your vehicle is equipped with AWD, a spare tire of a different size other than the tire provided should never be used. If the spare tire is installed, the AWD system may disable automatically and enter front-wheel drive only mode to protect driveline components. This condition may be indicated by an AWD OFF message in the message center (see Message center section in the Instrument Cluster chapter for more information). If there is an AWD OFF message in the message center from using the spare tire, this indicator should turn off after reinstalling the repaired or replaced normal road tire and driving a short distance. It is recommended to reinstall the repaired or replaced road tire as soon as possible. Major dissimilar tire sizes between the front and rear axles could cause the AWD system to stop functioning and default to front-wheel drive or damage the AWD system.

macbwt - Part of the cleaning up that I did was using emery cloth and brake clean to get those sliders spotless. The pads still didn't move freely in them though. What I'll probably wind up doing is taking my Dremel or a grinder to the pad backing plates where they contact these sliders. I'll take some material off to allow them to move more freely.

Disclaimer: I've owned a number of cars and always done all the brake, suspension, and other basic maintenance myself. So I have some experience, although I'm far from a "mechanic". I changed over my wife's '11 Sport's wheels to the winters the other day, and took the chance to check out the brakes while I was at it. I noticed a couple rotors weren't wearing all that nicely - the contact surfaces didn't seem to be having clean contact with the pads, or maybe the caliper wasn't squeezing the pads tight enough. So I removed the pads, used a wire brush and brake clean to clean everything up, re-lubricated with proper caliper lubricant, and swapped the inside/outside pads on each corner. While cleaning things up, I noticed that a few of the pads didn't move freely in their respective retaining clips. I bent the clips open as much as I could so that they'd still fit in the bracket, but even then, the pads seemed to bind a bit where they should have been freely moving. I also noticed that most of the clips had broken tabs that held them onto the bracket. Unfortunately, I didn't have the parts in hand nor the time to get them to put new clips in, so I reinstalled everything as it was after cleaning and re-lubricating. A couple of the pads still weren't moving as freely as I would like though, which leads me to my question... Can I just do away with these clips, which would afford more room for the pads to move around freely? Or do I replace the clips with new ones and just take a grinder to the pad fingers (?) to remove a little material to allow for them to move more freely? For the record, the pads and rotors are all about a year and a half old. Rotors are straight (no warping), and pads have PLENTY of life left in them. They were done by a Ford Stealership as a condition of purchase when we bought the car (used) at the time.

JOEHIO - ooops. I read your 1st post very quickly, then replied to it without giving it another read. I thought you were talking about using the M105, etc on the WHEELS. Regardless, still some good info. Thanks! I think I may give the Correction Compound a go by hand, and if that doesn't take much of the swirling out, maybe I'll try the Powerball. We'll see. Thanks again.

JOEHIO - That's what I was lookin' for; thanks for chiming in!! I had considered M105, but wasn't sure if it was too harsh. Did you polish by hand, or machine? What type of applicator/pad did you use? Also, great to see another Collinite 845 user. I spent a lot of time on the Autogeek forums a few years ago researching my first DIY "paint correction". 845 was my wax of choice after all my research. For the rest of the job I went with the Meguiar's Microfiber DA Correction System and a Porter Cable DA. The job was done on my '06 Cadillac CTS-V and the results were OUTSTANDING after about 8 total hours of work. I felt like I could dive into THAT paint. That brings me to a question.. think I could use the Meg's MF Correction Compound on these wheels with similar results to your M105? I don't think I could get the DA polisher in there, so it would have to be by hand. But I guess with a good MF applicator or hand pad, it just might get the job done, eh?

That PDF above is a great resource.... thanks!! And thanks to Google for bringing this thread up in my search results

Well, yah, of course that's an option. Suffice to say that I was looking for a solution that's a little less extreme. I just want to polish these back up to the nice, chrome-like finish that they had when they were new.

I'd love to... is "richy" his username?

Thanks for the reply! I went with the elbow grease and MF towel method the other day. Unforunately it didn't make a lick of difference. Although, I wasn't using an M205-like product. I just had some "Eagle One Nano Wheel Polish" sitting around, so that's what I used. Maybe I'll get a higher quality polish and try again. I DO have a Dremmel, but hadn't thought to use it for this type of application. You've got me wondering now...

Wondering if anyone's had any luck with any particular methods/products on their Sport wheels. Ours are getting a little hazy/swirly, and I'd like to get that almost-chrome shine back, if possible. I have a Porter Cable DA polisher for paint corrections, but I think it's too big and clunky to use on the wheels. Does the Mothers Power Ball actually work, or is a bit of elbow grease and the right product better? If the latter, what would this "right product" be? Thanks!!

I thought I would chime in here with my experience. I recently bought the Morimoto "9012" 35w kit with 5,500k bulbs and "HD" relay harness from The Retrofit Source and I'm pretty happy with the results. Figuring I didn't do the full retrofit which includes proper projector lenses and such, I can't complain too much. Light output is hugely increased from the OEM halogens that the '11 Sport came with. Not only are they brighter, but they cover far more space. The cutoff is fairly clean, even through the OEM projector lenses too. My one disappointment in the results is that I seem to have a couple little "hot spots" in my light output, which I'm assuming has to do with the OEM projectors. The bulbs (being 9012's, and not a trimmed-to-fit 9006 or other size) are installed the only way the tabs would allow, which I would assume is the proper way, so I'm not sure of any other explanation for the hot spots. My hopes were that these projector lenses were the same ones Ford used on the OEM HID equipped vehicles, but apparently they aren't if they're causing these. My parents and a friend both have Limited Edges with OEM HID's, and they definitely don't have hot spots in their light output, so something's different about mine. Maybe someone can speak to this? The only install issues I had were 1) finding good locations for the ground wires (factory grounds weren't easily accessible), and 2) mounting the ballasts. For the ground wires, I wound up sanding and drilling a location on each fender lip (then coating in dielectric grease, of course). Not a big deal, but I'd hoped to be able to use a factory ground location and not have to sand off paint and drill holes. For the ballasts - the TRS kit came with mounting brackets, but they were too small to fit nicely into the factory mounting locations. I wound up taking the mounting brackets off, and securing the ballasts into the factory location with "plumber's strapping". Not the prettiest, but functional. Unfortunately, my heavy duty Velcro wasn't holding things securely enough for my liking, so this was the next best option I had. All in all, this kit appeared to be very high quality and basically dummy-proof in terms of how things wired up and connected. I do feel like I need to throw a disclaimer in here about why I chose TRS and not DTBL (Daytime Bright Lights, aka DAN), because I did seriosly consider Dan's kit. I asked him a number of questions last year and he was absolutely awesome to deal with. Nothing but helpful and courteous, like you would expect any professionally run business to be. I had every intention of giving him my business, but by the time I was ready to pull the trigger, I found out that I needed a kit for my other vehicle as well. Since I couldn't get the 2nd kit from Dan, I went looking on TRS's site and found that they had an Independance Day special on. It just made more sense t buy both from TRS rather than buy them separately. Sorry Dan, but I'll probably be thowing some business your way for the LED DRL/Signals to make up for it sometime in the future.

My wife's 2011 Edge Sport was left with the dealership today to look into Sync/MFT issues which may have been related to the 12M02 Field Service Action. I dropped the vehicle off after hours and put the keys in their drop box along with a note attached to the keys with the vehicle info on it. I also left a note on the driver's seat describing some/most of the goofy issues we've been experiencing with our MFT/Sync system since we've owned the car (we bought it 2nd hand a year ago). I just got a call from the dealership's service secretary/rep who informed me that none of the issues I listed turned out to be related to the aforementioned FSA regarding the APIM, and continued on to tell me that they didn't have any parts yet (inferring that they were trying to fix all of the issues). I politely stopped her and confirmed that the vehicle was only brought in for any work covered by the FSA, and that I did not have any intentions of having them fix the issues otherwise. The conversation took a sharp turn at this point. I was informed that because the diagnostics completed determined that the issues I listed were not related to the FSA, I was on the hook for $200 worth of shop time for said diagnostics. I clarified and the rep confirmed that if those same diagnostics confirmed that it WAS related to the FSA, then I would not have had to pay for them. I was trying my best to stay calm and courteous, but this rep was getting increasingly unprofessional and confrontational... we argued back and fourth for about 10 minutes with the rep telling me that my note didn't instruct them NOT to proceed if issues weren't covered by the FSA, so they were forging ahead with fixing them. The fact of the matter is that it was suggested to me to list any of the issues I was having with the MFT/Sync system so that they could more easily do their diagnoses. I didn't ask them to fix all the issues, I asked them to look into the FSA and it's relation to the issues my vehicle was exhibiting. So, am I wrong for thinking that their diagnostics charges are FORD's responsibility rather than MINE? They had to perform the diagnostics to confirm whether the FSA was applicable or not. Just because the issues (apparently) turned out not to be related to the APIM doesn't mean that all of a sudden I now have to pay to have had them determine that... does it?? I'm going to place a call to Ford's "Customer Support" number and see if that gets me anywhere, but I don't have very high hopes. Does anyone have any suggestions as to anyone else I could/should contact? Anything else I can do? Or am I just up shit's creek? Or maybe I'm all wrong here and I should just fork over the money...

Thanks Rebecca. I'm going to speak with a local dealership this week and see where that takes me.

Oooh now there's a useful little nugget!!! To the dealership we go. Unfortunately the only one I have around is the same one that I had to argue with that there was an option for them to use their scan tool to change the DRLs from the headlight to the signal markers. I showed them how. lol

According to the Ford site, I have the latest software; which is why it wont allow me to download the file again (to attempt re-installation). Interesting to hear about the TSB for the ambient lighting. I'd like to get the details on it and see if there's something I can do myself, since the dealership will likely charge an arm and a leg since it's out of warranty and TSB's aren't like recalls where they cover the cost of fixing. I haven't noticed ringtone issues, but I never change the settings of this. The screen brightness is a real issue though. Even when cycling through the different brightness settings on the dash buttons (left of the steering wheel), it randomly jumps around from super bright to very dim. There's no "scale" to it.

Should I post this in the 2011 Edge page, maybe?

We've had this 2011 Edge Sport since last summer, and man has figuring out MFT/Sync been a challenge. Last fall sometime, I "upgraded" to the "latest" software which seemed to fix some of the issues, but brought up a hand full of new ones. Through my searching/reading, this isn't uncommon, unfortunately. One big thing that really bugs me though is this: The system doesn't save many of the customizations/changes we make to the settings. It seems to constantly default back to "factory settings" for everything from ambient lighting, to screen brightness, to navigation/map preferences, and so on. For example, no matter how many times I turn ambient lighting ON, and change it to dark blue; it's always back to the "default" greenish-blue the next time we get in it. Another example is the screen brightness. I always put it on "auto", and also change the automatic brightness to OFF because it often goes so dark that I we can't see anything on it in daylight. The next time we come back to the car, these settings are usually back to "default" as well. A third annoying example is that it doesn't even let me change the units of measure in the nav settings to KM. The "button" is there, and I get the audio feedback when I touch it, but it will not change from Miles. There are more, but these are examples off the top of my head. I will mention that not EVERYTHING completely resets when the car isn't in use. It DOES save radio presets, bluetooth devices/phones, HVAC settings, etc though. There really doesn't seem to be any rhyme nor reason to what's being saved and what isn't. Has anyone else experienced this type of behaviour? If so, is there a resolution? What I'd really like to do is re-install this latest software again, just to see if that patches anything up. Problem there is that I can't find the file to download anywhere (the Ford site says I'm already up to date, and thus doesn't allow me to download anything), and I'm not sure there's an option for re-installing software. Does anyone have any input or suggestions on this? Thanks in advance.

Yes, I have the most up to date software installed. I didn't have these issues until I did the update, actually. No, I haven't been to the dealer. The warranty is up, and it'll be a cold day in hell before I bring my car for service at any of my local Ford dealerships for out-of-warranty issues. Shop rates are astronomical, service is off-putting at best, and I just plain don't have any trust/faith in them.

Sorry it took so long, but I have some very anticlimactic follow-up to this story. I had some time in the -20 degree weather the other day to fiddle around and see what was up with the battery. Turns out we're just dummies. The 2 times the battery got drained from the 10-15 minutes of sitting in accessory mode.... yah... the key was actually in the "run" position. This means the blower for the heat was running, as well as the rest of the electronic systems. I watched my multimeter drop 0.01 volts about every 3 seconds when I mimicked this agian. Obviouisly, the blower is a significant draw on the battery and this is what brought it down to a level that wouldn't start the car. When I put the key in the actual "accessory" mode - where only the radio was on - or, when I turned the blower fan off, the drain on the battery was significantly lower. Just to be sure, I left the car sitting with the radio on for a good half hour. It started just fine after that. Now, if I could only figure out WTF is up with the rest of these annoying MFT/Sync bugs. My hazards button still doesn't work, while driving, the touchscreen randomly goes so dark you can't see anything on it, and changes I make in the settings don't seem to "save". I'll change something like turning off the automatic display dimming, or setting the ambient lighting colour... a few days later, it's all back to the previous settings. Strange piece of work, this MFT/Sync thing is...strange...

That's some great info above. BITOG is a fantastic site with a ton of really useful information. People get tied up in all the marketing hype behind these CAI's, etc. I love when I hear a guy tell me they just picked up 20 horse from installing a $400 air intake. lol If they're lucky, they *might* see ANY gain at all on a dyno. Now for a highly modified engine, there's no doubt that gains can be had from a quality CAI, but even when paired with, say, a H/C/I V8, a CAI might net you 5-10 horse at the wheels.

Nothing yet. Been working nights and haven't had time to mess around with it. Its been starting without any issues, but we haven't had it sitting in accessory mode for any period of time either. It's been really cold here (close to 0 F) and its still starting fine, so I don't know that the battery is the issue. I suspect that when I do experiment, we'll quickly kill the battery in accessory again.

I updated my wife's '11 Edge Sport a few months ago (when we first bought it), and although this fixed a number of glitches, it also brought out some new ones. I've read a million threads and learned that many of the "new" glitches are "normal", but I'm still curious about attempting a re-install to see if that helps anything. The trouble is, I don't have the file(s) anymore, and the Ford website doesn't give me the option to download it again because it says I'm currently up to date. Even if I could get the file(s), would the vehicle allow me to do a re-installation, or would it just tell me that I already have that software version and installation is not necessary? Thanks!

Some very useful stuff there, thanks!!

I've learned this. Still, the button does not work. Anyone know how to diagnose/fix a capacitive button?

The button doesn't push in though. Like i tried to explain, its not a "button" that pushes in and out. Its like the MFT/HVAC buttons where it senses your touch.