Christopher N Bagge

So I have a 2016 Forde Edge 2.0 with almost 49K on it. My wife mainly drives this car (mostly city driving), and she came home last week with a check engine light on, and said there was a shudder in the engine. So I hooked up the OBDII reader to it, and it was a misfire on cylinder 3. So to be safe, and it was pretty cheap to do, I replaced all 4 plugs, and the ignition coil for the number 3 cylinder. While doing this I noticed that the number 3 plug had oil on the threads, and was a little bit darker on the electrode area, but not too bad. So I went ahead, and put everything back together, and I have been watching for blue smoke. Everything was fine, until yesterday, which is 5 days from when I changed the plugs and coil, and now there is blue smoke at cold start up, and a bit of a shudder in the engine as soon as it starts up, but it hasn't thrown a code again yet. Has anyone else seen anything like this with there eco boost? I know some people talk about turbo's going bad, and oil leaking past the seal causing blue smoke at cold start up, but I wasn't sure if that would be specific to 1 cylinder. Any help would be generally appreciated.

It was at least 10 minutes, I went inside and worked for a bit so probably closer to 20.

I have a 2016 Edge SEL with the Nav, and the display screen has gone all black. I have tried pulling the radio fuses, and disconnecting the battery. I have also done the soft reset by holding the power button, and the right seek button down, and each time I do this, the ford logo will show up, but then it goes back to the black screen. No Sound, no radio function with the steering wheel controls, and no backup camera. If I put the car in reverse, and do the soft reset I can get the camera to come on, but as soon as I go back to park, everythign is back to black again. I'm not sure if the APIM is the problem, or if anyone knows of other ways to fix, or diagnose this problem. The USB porst will still charge the phone. Thanks in advance for any help.

So I see that people have asked about the remote start not working because the check engine light is on, but that is just how ford programmed them, but has anyone ever had the remote start cause the check engine light to come on? So it's hard to really say if that's what is happening, because I really only use the R/S to start the car, but I will start it with the remote, get in the car, and hit the start in the car, and when the car takes over, the check engine light will come on. I bought the car new, and starting around 7,000 miles the check engine light has come on ever couple of thousand miles, but it usually goes out with in 24 hours, and the dealership near me that I bought it from usually can't get my car in fast enough to see what's going on. the one time it did last longer, I was in the backwoods of NH on vacation, and no where near a dealership. Not sure if anyone else has seen this? The car has 14,500 miles on it now. Thanks Chris

Weird question, but did they by any chance change this on the 2016's? I have the plastic panel which is supposed to be for the manual hatch release, but it is a lot smaller on my car than in this video, and there is nothing back there that I can see that I could use to release the latch. Thank you