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only126db

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  1. What should I look for? Mechanic today said everything up front is tight and it is all new (couple months old), when I hit little bumps, big bumps any bumps it sounds like a bad strut mount but all seems good.... Does anyone have an idea of where to look to find this noise? Just had a mechanic look at it while replacing a tie rod that went bad, he said everything seemed tight and in new shape (since it is) but obviously he missed the issue.... This bugs me..... Any hidden secret issue spots ??? HELP
  2. Yes, entire front suspension is new besides rack, brakes new all around...tires new, end links in rear new...
  3. ABS and Traction control light came on brakes would lock up and were very grabby, lights went off by themselves, brakes acted fine but when checking codes I had two pending codes (forget what they were)... Took it to dealer they diagnosed it as a bad ABS Control Module and Hydraulic Control Assembly and quoted me around $2500 to repair it....Now the problem is they must have cleared the codes because I have had no pending codes in a month and the lights have never come back on.....The guy at the dealer said it will not show a pending code unless the actual ABS or Traction Control light illuminates.... Does this sound right? The pending code thing... Also usually wouldnt a dealer 'not' clear a code like that due to liability issues unless they repaired it?
  4. ----------------- RTFM ? Runover The Ford Mechanic ? Oh I see now....Read The Ford Manaul.... Why has every reply you have made to my posts seemed like you think I am an idiot? Please dont reply to my posts.
  5. --------------------------------------------------------------------- See now the manual I looked at said use Mercon, not Mercon V. I called Ford and they also said Merc V. The manual I got this info from is on Ford.com, you would think they would have current info.
  6. Thanks Gary.... Thats pretty much everything I was wondering.
  7. @ akirby Thanks but as I said I would like more specific info. I read there is a 9 speaker option (premium), is that just a 4 speaker system with 6x8 2way drivers and the sub? Also Crutchfield shows 3 and 4 ohm drivers will work in the Edge, they show this option for almost every vehicle, that does not tell me if the factory drivers are 2,3,4 or xxx ohm. Also because someone else stuck some subwoofer in their vehicle that doesnt mean that they used the proper driver for the system, I can drop a dual 1ohm sub in the location but that doesnt mean thats optimum. I will just break out my DMM and tape measure myself, seems like the only way to get the answers I need.
  8. Thanks akirby, but not quite what I was looking for. I am looking for a little more detail than what Crutchfield offers.
  9. We just picked up an '07 Edge SEL, the speakers sound terrible (to me) so I am looking at upgrading. I have a few questions about Ohm loads and speaker configuration etc. We have Nav and a factory subwoofer, pic of our model radio attached. 1) How do you identify whether you have the premium or standard system without pulling the door panels or other disassembly (wondering if I have the dual drivers per door)? 2) What are the factory door speakers resistances (2ohm, 3ohm, 4ohm)? 3) What are the door speaker dimensions (diam & depth)? 4) To add a subwoofer amp do I need to bypass the factory subwoofer amp and if so is there a simple plug & play harness? 5) What is the factory subwoofers resistance? 6) What is the internal depth of the factory subwoofer enclosure? 7) What is the internal volume of the factory subwoofer enclosure? Thanks for the help
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