dbender

I'll bet you're right about the speaker magnet. One of these days I'll take the door liner off and move the switch. Thanks for the idea.

pilotdog68, I answered Rewerbcrx, and I'm surprised the answer isn't here. Maybe it was a PM? Anyway, the answer I gave him (or tried to) said that this was a less-than-satisfactory fix for me. For some reason, when I open the door, the reed switch doesn't open consistently. I have to slap the plastic door liner to jar it open so that the radio and dome light go off. I gather from your response to him that you used the fix I described, but that it works consistently for you? If so, could you tell me what reed switch you used?

Okay, I finally got around to installing the magnetic reed switch to fix my driver door ajar light, and I took a few pictures. This first picture is for orientation, showing the location under the door panel where I accessed the wire bundle. You can see two red plastic squares which are wire taps. They are just in front of the speaker. This photo is a close-up of the two wires I tapped into, with a piece of white paper behind them to make it easier to see. I found two green/violet wires, and the first one I tried was the wrong one (of course). You want the green/violet 22AWG wire with the lighter green color. Find them both, and choose the one with a lighter green. I added a waterproof 2-pin connector between the wire tap (on the door) and the magnetic reed switch (attached to the inside of the door panel). So now if I need to remove the door panel again, I have one extra connector to disconnect. The reed switch is the white rectangle in my palm. This photo shows where I attached the reed switch on the inside front edge of the door panel. Before replacing the door panel, I routed the wire behind that white batting to keep it in place. And this photo shows where I taped a coin-shaped magnet to the plastic trim piece on the A-pillar. I originally stuck the magnet on the other side of the trim piece, but for some reason this didn't work. When I closed the door, the door ajar light would go out, correctly. But when I reopened the door, the light would stay off, as if the reed switch was sticking. (In fact, I could get it to open by banging on the door panel right where the switch is attached.) I don't know why, but moving the magnet to the visible side of the plastic solved the problem. I'll leave the magnet taped this way for now, and maybe I'll try later to get it to work behind the plastic. Otherwise I'll glue it in place where it is now taped, and maybe paint it gray.

@aroo1986: I found a post that listed the wire colors for all 4 doors at the point where they reach the body control module. I don't know about the other 3 doors, but the wire color (green/violet) listed for the driver's door is definitely correct. Here are the wire colors listed for the 26-pin BCM connector: pin 5 - white - passenger front ajar switch pin 9 - green/violet - driver front ajar switch pin 20 - green - driver rear ajar switch pin 21 - yellow - passenger rear ajar switch So I guess you're looking for a solid green wire. You can get to it by removing the door panel, but you could probably find it in the bundle that passes under the driver's door sill, which would be easier. To test it, use another piece of wire and tap into the green 22AWG wire in that bundle and ground it to see if the door ajar light goes out. Duane

Well, I went ahead and took the door panel off, and I found the wire. There were two green/violet wires in the bundle, and I think they are both 22AWG, so I had to identify the correct wire by trial and error. I spliced into the correct wire and grounded it, and--as expected--the door ajar light (and map lamps) do not come on even if the door is opened. I had to put the door panel back on temporarily so my wife can use the car tomorrow morning, but I plan to take it back off and attempt the magnetic reed switch workaround this weekend. I'll take some pictures at that time.

I don't see how the wire from the driver's door latch switch could pass through the driver's door sill, as Pilotdog68's video shows. Maybe his bad switch was in the driver's side rear door? Anyway, it makes more sense that this wire would pass through the rubber boot in the front door jam of the driver's door and go straight to the connector above the fuse box where Kmp14 found it. But I looked/reached up there and I really don't want to try to access the wire in that location. Hats off to Kmp14 for managing to splice in there! My thought is to remove the door panel and splice into the wire inside the door, and then reverse the procedure these two members used: put the reed switch under the plastic on the door, and the magnet on the plastic trim on the body side of the door jam. Any thoughts on the viability of this approach, before I remove the door panel?