

IWRBB
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Posts posted by IWRBB
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So we sold the ST.
After the engine was replaced- the problems started.
Things the dealer touched or swapped from engine to engine started to fail.
The first was a total limp mode failure on the highway 1 month after we got it back. Crankshaft Position Sensor + Wiring Harness + Tow = $1100
The second was a failure of the high presure fuel line (!). That in my opinion, should be something that never fails. Fuel sprayed all over the engine and another $2400 to fix.
Ford acted like they had nothing to do with either failure.
Thinking about those two quick failures after the engine swap, along with the ongoing rattling sunshade Ford refused to do anything about, the wipers that sometimes stopped working in the rain (not good at all), and the overall general level of pain it takes to service the ST- I decided to trade it for a 2024 ST Line with the 2.0L instead (poser).
It has noticably less power, but it has SO much more room in the engine bay. The Edge ST is *by far* the worst thing I have ever worked on in the last 40 years of servicing my own vehicles. Look at nearly any spot on the engine from the top down and you'll find: turbo air tubes, then vacuum hoses, then metal hard lines carrying oil to/from the turbos, then some electrical, then rubber cooling hoses, then fuel lines, then more electrical harness, then PCV hoses. Maybe after you remove all of that, you might be able to catch a glimpse of the fastener you are after for the sensor you still can't even see without using a mirror. The engine bay is small in general. It's just downright brutal in every aspect.
If you Edge ST owners can still get extended warranties, I'd recommend getting one. Flood Ford ESP. Search it up. The hours of labor required to service this vehicle drives the cost of any repairs way up.
When I mentioned the level of pain required to service these vehicles, the service writer said "be glad it doesn't have a hybird system slapped on top of all of that."
I hope you guys have better luck than we did! I still love all of my other Fords, but our 2019 Edge ST was really bad from a reliabilty standpoint.
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Extract and replace is fine IMO. Small shavings don't harm the hardened steel gears.
The issue is the oil breaking down and providing no lubrication- which the extract and replace corrects.
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On 5/15/2024 at 2:29 AM, WilkiST said:
For the moment this what i found regarding PTUs for confused owners, like me.
......
Have fun guys!
Where are you finding this info? It seems impossible to work on anything new-ish without this kind of detail.
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Yep, less than a month left.
We got it back- seems OK, but after having it for 2 weeks it came back with the added bonus of a door ding. Now we have to get the dealer to acknowledge it was thewir staff that dented it- and get it fixed.
This is why I avoid taking my cars to anyone and service them myself whenever possible...
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So it was low coolant after all.
Turns out coolant was leaking into the cylinders. Needs a replacement engine.
Ford is covering a longblock replacement under the 5yr/60K powertrain, which was going to expire in July. Has 40K miles on it. Drive it home and we are waiting for the new engine to come in to get it replaced.
It's the first Ford I've ever had trouble with the shortblock, and I've owned quite a few.
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Cheked the coolant first thing.
Now that it's hot- it's doing the same thing in reverse, kind of.
Wife says the A/C get's warm on the highway or at RPMs above 2000. Slow down or drop the RPMs and the A/C goes cold again.
It's going to the dealer soon, I have no clue what it's doing.
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2019 ST with around 40K miles.
We get no heat at all unless you are above 2000 RPMs. Then it works as normal.
I did see a code using Forscan about a coolant pump- but it never turned on the light, it's just stored. I will pull it again and get the number.
I also tried the method to recalibate the HVAC system and everything didi what it was supposed to in that process, but nothing changed.
I'm about to take it to the dealer, but I thought I'd make a post here first to see if the hive mind has knowledge. -
On 7/14/2020 at 2:28 AM, Perblue said:
The latest update was released June 2nd.
I've had it for a week and so far no complaints.
Well, then we have the update prior to the June 2nd update. Still no issues.
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We've had the latest update since March and so far no clunks. Nice job Ford.
If Ford would only fix the noisy moonroof/shade instead of saying could not duplicate, we'd be good. My wife is taking someone from their dealer around to hear the noise next time.
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I always thought it was the rear gate "unlocking" after sensing the key, but I guess now that I think about it there is no true lock on the gate like the doors have.
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For anyone reading this in the future, I took the plates off the car and used a hydraulic press to push out the old bearing. It took a LOT of pressure but we did not bend the plates.
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I know when people arrive at my house because I can hear V6s and I4s when they pull in the driveway. You can't hear the exhaust, you just "feel" the rumble created of the lack of firing events.
Never forget rolling around in a manual trans 1990s Civic with one cylinder out, and 5 people in the car. You could clearly feel each cylinder firing as we took off from a stop on an uphill.
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It's fine. A single LCA is capable of handling 100% of the weight of the vehicle, and then some. I mean, you CAN do damage jacking on the wrong control arm at the wrong spot- but assuming he had a clue as to what he was doing, it's not a problem.
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3 hours ago, MLin said:
You are right, I should have gone to the dealer, even if it is a hour away or at least called them to discuss. Instead I went to my local Ford dealer and this insane process got rolling and then it started raining heavily with a heavy rain advisory and no time to drive an hour away.
This is definitely a design flaw. Ford acknowledges it as a "Manufacturing defect" however identified this issue in a "Customer Satisfaction Program" which is like calling it "Fake News" IMO. They seem to be sneakily moving away from using "Recall" and rebranding it "Customer Satisfaction Program" (CSP) and expecting no one to call them on it. The CSP issued by Ford says " It may be possible for salt and water to weep through the rear wiper motor shaft grommet. This can leave a deposit of residue on the interior of the rear defroster grid and cause uneven heat in the glass". These are the words from Ford. As I look at everyone's pictures, the shatter pattern is the same. This is definitely a design flaw and should be unequivocally covered regardless of how many times the glass shatters.
1. The glass shattering sounds like a gun shot and if it happens while driving it scares the crap out of you.
2. I live in Canada and during the in winter months the rear defrost is a necessity. Now that this has happened to me twice (2x's) I freeze every time I start my car and the heat comes on and its like a race to turn the defrost off and then its a "decision", like how bad is it, do I really need to turn on my rear defrost today"???
3. My thought process goes to questioning "What can I do to alleviate this fear and try to stop it from happening again since Ford has not identified a willingness to own this flaw and provide me with a reliable fix?"
4. I escalated this to the top at Ford and got some action. It wasn't a great response but it wasn't a complete NO like I had received from the dealership, Customer Service and Customer Relations.
ps. Know anyone that wants to buy a 2015 Ford Edge?
It's not a recall because it's not a safely issue. It's a major inconvenience, and a design flaw, but it's not a safety thing. If nobody is getting injured or dying- no recall.
As for #3, you could pull the wiper setup and seal up the hole if you are willing to live without the wiper. Find a good body plug and silicone it in. It'd be just like driving a sedan at that point.
"Rear wiper delete Mod"
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We haven't taken it in yet as we'll need to strip everything out of it first, but let me know if you find anything on yours.
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By short shifting at under 5000 RPMs you are giving up the mechanical advantage of the lower gear before you have to.
If it was faster in the quarter to shift sooner, Ford would have had it shift sooner.
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I don't if you can. All service procedures for the track I've seen start with "remove accordion covers and discard". It may be something that needs to be installed before the roof unit goes in the car. Not sure.
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Did you buy this Edge new or used?
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That'd probably work. I'd still sjtu buy a new PTU and put it in if I was yanking the old one. They aren't that expensive and if you change the fluid they will last. You can wrap the exhaust pipes and/or make better heat shields around the cats to help preserve the seals.
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On 12/18/2019 at 6:52 PM, Spaceman Spiff said:
My Sync 3 is build 17276 and running fine. Is worth upgrading or “ not fix something that isn’t broken?”
spiff
No. If it works for you, don't touch it. If you get a new phone and have issues or something, then update it.
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The auto HS / MS CANBUS switching is nice, assuming it works.
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On 12/17/2019 at 8:22 PM, 2FAST4U said:
Yeah, even if it's an "insurance case", the modification still has to be done by the dealer to prevent it from happening again. And...I don't understand what road salt has to do with the backglass shattering…
Read the TSB. It's in the second paragraph.
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8 hours ago, todd92 said:
I've had excellent experience with Centric products.
Nah man- I heard from a guy online that Powerstop parts are the way to go. You can get them as kits real cheap!
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On 11/27/2019 at 2:05 PM, AMulally said:
Hmm must have a crappy dealer. I emailed the service mgr at the Auto Group I deal with the TSB in Q and just ask if I could come by and have it applied - no issues. Again it's made a world of difference for my ST.
This is a TSB. I guarantee your dealer is filing it with Ford under warranty work and as a customer complaint, They aren't just doing it for you because they are such a wonder dealer of automobiles.
Best GTDI oil to use and when to change?
in 2.0L EcoBoost
Posted
I change the oil in all my cars every 5000 miles. Time does not matter to me.