mano1192

The way i got around this is limo tints all around Thanksfully out here in Vegas cops dont pull over for tints.

The following will turn your accessories on and off automatically when your key is in the accessory position or your car is running, the same as your radio. In order to wire your accessories correctly and professionally you should get a standard 12v SPST relay, wire pin 86 to 12v (in steering column harness), wire pin 86 to your accessory wire (in steering column harness) , wire pin 85 to ground, then wire pic 30 to your accessories like satellite radio power, radar detector, neon lights, ect. For each cigarette lighter powered accessory, look on the wire near the plug, there is usually a small box with a fuse and a voltage reducer, sometimes it will also state the voltage on the back of the unit near the serial numbers/product numbers. As stated above, you will need to wire the voltage reducer inline with your wire form pic 30 or you can damage your accessory. These are cheap from radio shack. Make sure to fuse your 12v connection also. This is the safe way to wire accessories without any potential damage to your vehicle. I have done this for many years on many cars. On german cars you also need a diode, but we dont need to worry about that with edges

I personally cant stand the stick on kits. Im looking to send out some pieces to be carbon fiber dipped. Its NOT cheap, but theres no cheasy stick on look as you send out your actual parts and they dip them for you.

This is very tru, these door gromets are way too crammed to feed wires through, I had to use the stock speaker wires for my comps to the crossover. The firewall gromet is gigantic, I have 0 gauge running through there plus my siren and tach wires. Did you find the tack in that main grommet? I always had luck finding it there in fords, usually a brown/yellow or grey/yellow... ..

I have programmable outs so that was my thinking as well, just hit one of the front door triggers upon shutdown. I am pushing 1000 watts right now and have yet to add my other amp that will push me to around 1500 wats total. I definetly need a larger battery. I have done "the big" 3 upgrade and have no problems with lights dimming ect. but I expect to have issues with the 2nd amp. I have the room in the spare area, I may just add another small lead acid battery and use that for the extra capacity, but I usually upgrade the alternator before that step as it adds more strain the more batteries it needs to charge.

Link to unit: http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?f...&category0=

Ok so the install went well, I took my time and did a good job, sodering all ignition wires. I was able to go strait to the injector for the tach wire. This same wire is also in the firewall on the driver side, but I did not have a multimeter only a test probe, so I was not going to be testing wires with that and went to the sure wire. Door locks are single negatice pulse which is nice, I also found there is a positive lock wire too. The trunk pop is also verified (for the power lift gate). Ignition wires also matched up with the list above. One note is that the dome supervision will not work during the day as there is a daylight sensor preventing the circuit from closing. It works during the night fine. The only problem I have to figure out is on the edge the accesory wire (radio) will continue to run until a door is opened. So for instance if you remote start the car, and it times out (I have mine progrmed to run for 10 mins) and the engine shuts off the radio will continue to run until the door is triggered. This is a problem for me as my amps will drain the battery dead in about 3 minutes. Naturally I remote start the car then get in and drive off, but for any reason I get held up the radio will continue to play. The solution I think will work is sending a negative pulse to the door pin wire upon unit shutdown. This may pose a problem but I will have to experiment on it when I have some time. Besides that the Edge is a breeze to install alarms or remote starters on. All your wires are right in the driver kick panel and wire colors all matched up with the list above. /steve PS. Does anyone know if the window rolls up with the key held to the lock position from outside the vehicle? Have yet to try it...

I got the autopage rs-1000 on ebay for $200 flat, the bypass unit I got from my local vendor. My local vendor also sells autopages but it was 350 so I went to ebay.

Almost done with the install, I hook up everything! This alarm/remote start is great. Im used to DEI products and have installed them for over 10 years, but this is my first time using autopage so things are a little slower than normal, but from what Ive seen so far they are far more in depth than a DEI unit. One change to above, I could not find the trunk power lift wire- grey/yellow in the driver kick, so I went to the switch. Its a easier location to grab it from. Another thing to note for remote starters is you will require either a spare key or a bypass unit. The bypass units are $50 and you do not need a extra key made vs the extra keys going for around $100. I have used DEI's bypass module its a 556S. This bypass module will memorize the chip code in your 2 stock keys, then when remote started it will send those codes to the factory key ring sense. Ill add more once the full install is done.

Maybe this should be made a sticky! I will be installing my Autopage 1000 tonight and will add any comments to this wire guide: 2007 Ford Edge Car Alarm and Remote Car Starter Wiring Information Constant 12V+ Wire: Blue/Red Constant 12V+ Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness Starter Wire (+): Blue/White Starter Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness Second Starter Wire (+): N/A Start Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness Ignition Wire (+): White/Orange Ignition Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness Second Ignition Wire: N/A Second Ignition Wire Location: N/A Accessory Wire: Purple/Green Accessory Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness Second Accessory Wire: N/A Accessory Wire Location: N/A Tachometer Wire: NOT White/Blue or Purple/Green Tachometer Wire Location: Any ignition coil or fuel injector. Key Sense Wire: Blue/Gray Key Sense Location: Ignition Harness or SJB, conn. B, pin 35. The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is above the driver kick panel. Door Lock Wire (-): Gray/Yellow Door Lock Wire Location: Driver kick panel or SJB, conn. C, pin 17. The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is above the driver kick panel. Door Unlock Wire (-): Purple/Gray Door Unlock Wire Location: Driver kick panel or SJB, conn. C, pin 4. The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is above the driver kick panel. Door Trigger Wire (-): Use dome supervision wire. Door Trigger Wire Location: N/A Dome Supervision Wire: Gray/Purple Dome Supervision Wire Location: Driver kick panel or SJB, conn. A, pin 9. The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is above the driver kick panel. The exterior mirror puddle lamp is purple (+) at the SJB, conn. C, pin 12. Headlights Wire (-): N/A Headlights Wire Location: N/A Parking Light Positive Wire (+): Purple/White Parking Light Positive Wire Location: Driver kick panel or SJB, conn. D, pin 20. The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is above the driver kick panel. Parking Light Negative Wire (-): Gray Parking Light Negative Wire Location: Switch or SJB, conn. B, pin 31. The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is above the driver kick panel. When using the negative parking lights at the switch it is necessary to break the ground wire of the switch with a relay. Trunk/Hatch Pin Wire (-): Brown/Yellow Trunk/Hatch Pin Wire Location: Driver kick panel or SJB, conn. C, pin 16. The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is above the driver kick panel. Hood Pin Wire (-): Blue/Orange Hood Pin Wire Location: Pin switch or SJB, conn. F, pin 10. This wire rests at ground and goes to an open circuit when the hood is opened. The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is above the driver kick panel. Trunk/Hatch Release Wire (-): Brown Trunk/Hatch Release Wire Location: Driver kick panel or SJB, conn. C, pin 7. The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is above the driver kick panel. The hatch release motor wire is green/white (+) in the SJB, conn. D, pin 15. On vehicles with the power liftgate, the open/close wire is gray/yellow (-) at the switch in the dash or in the driver kick. Factory Alarm Arm Wire: N/A Factory Alarm Arm Wire Location: N/A Factory Alarm Disarm Wire (-): Purple/Brown Factory Alarm Disarm Wire Location: Driver kick panel or SJB, conn. C, pin 8. Meter this wire while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder. The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is above the driver kick panel. Factory Alarm Disarm but No Unlock Wire (-): N/A Factory Alarm Disarm Wire Location: N/A Horn Trigger Wire (-): Blue/White Horn Trigger Wire Location: Switch or SJB, conn. B, pin 41. The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is above the driver kick panel. Brake Wire (+): Purple/White Brake Wire Location: Switch or SJB, conn. B, pin 40. The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is above the driver kick panel. Emergency Parking Brake Wire (+): Blue/Gray Emergency Parking Brake Wire Location: Switch or SJB, conn. C, pin 1. The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is above the driver kick panel.

20'S with the lowering springs looks great, any one with 22"'s to compare them too? I may just stick with the 20's, dont want to sacrifice too much comfort. Thanks for the input so far! /steve

Thanks for the pics, I have the same lowering springs kit. Are those 20" or 22", they look like they fill up the wheel well nicely once lowered. Also do you happen to know the offset of the rims or er... wheels ?

Im debating on going 22" or 20", I also have a K&N lowering spring kit but would like to see the difference between the 20" and 22". I really dont want to leave any room in the wheel well as I think it looks bad. Please post rim info and tire info please. Pictures are appreciated. thanks, Steve

The wire does not sense the vehicle "speed" as indicated per the name VSS "vehicle speed sense" wire. This input to a nav unit only tells it how much rpm's are sent to the engine, thus calculating the average speed. Please do not drive your vehicle while testing wires, this is not a safe practice. Not to sound "fatherly" I am a professional 12v installer and do not want to see anyone doing unnecessary things in incorrect fashion especially when its not safe. Just rev the engine while testing and you will see the AC current ramp up and down to match the rev of the engine. You do not need to have the car in drive, park is fine. For anyone who would like some info on 12v installation information please see this site, it is very useful: Basic Car Audio Electronics /steve

"I just don't understand why you would need to enter a NEW address while moving so often that this becomes an issue. Don't you have the address before you start? Given that you can store multiple addresses and select them as destinations while you're moving - I just don't see the NEED to do this more than once in a blue moon. Or is it just a case of being lazy and not putting the address in before you leave?" Some people want the right to do as they choose, and its their God given right to do whatever they please. Whether you agree with it or not its THEIR right. You have nothing constructive to offer this topic and should move on. I personally am like Lex, I can multi-task more than the average person can, this mod is obviously not for everyone or it would be a stock feature. Everyone has their reasons for wanting to do what they want to do, its not anyone elses business to tell them what they can or cant do. So please if you have nothing to add to the discussion take your opinion elsewhere, your opinion is what it is.... a opinion. It has been noted.