TxBucki

OK..not sure why I posted this in the Edge forum..Sorry about that...

OK..so basically forget about the battery light on dash, and get the thing running. Seems strange it would fire/start, albeit it was struggling last 2 or 3 times b/c it seemed low battery, and now...it just won't. Any suggestions on even where to start? Air/Fuel/Spark...Check fuel rail to see if it's getting gas?

Noticed my1998 Explorer was getting hard to start and checked battery, and just sitting not running, read 11.4V. It was at the end of the warranty period and figured, it's time. Went and got a new one, popped it in, read 12.5V. Tried starting the car, and it would crank, but not turnover. This is when I noticed the red battery light on dash. Any ideas where to start checking? Alternator? (seems pretty easy to take off and go get it tested). Fuses? Seems strange just replacing battery with a new one caused red battery light to come on... Thanks in advance..

It's a 2012 Edge with Eco Boost 2.0L. I checked all the hoses...Seem to be good. The linkage to the wastegate is loose for sure..I really suspect that is the issue (or the wastegate itself) but will not find out until I take it off. It seems like a pain, but something new... In the process of doing that now...Is there a way to test the wastegate regulating valve on the car? Thanks..

Keep getting P0299 code and suspect Turbo wastegate as the code indicates, but I have seem where many other factors may play into this code so you don't necessarily have to replace the turbo itself. I did check the hoses and don't see any holes or loose clamps. Is there a way to test Turbocharger sensor assy or the Turbocharger wastegate regulating valve solenoid, or finally the Turbocharger bypass valve? I do have some play in the linkage to the wastegate but not sure how much would be too much play and can you adjust this? I may take off the exhaust that connects right by the wastegate and see how much play is there, but if there are easier things to do before that, I would want to try... Thanks..Ed

Thanks. Looks like you’re the 1st. Did the climate control work on screen or do you have to use hard buttons? I guess you can switch between the 2.

Since the DTC mentions Sensor "D" I figured I should look all around the seat frame for multiple sensors and maybe luck into finding something obvious and sure enough I found the connector wires were severed when the harness "fell" into the track and once someone moved the seat, poof...Spliced in the wires and made sure the harness does NOT fall back into the track. Started up the car and DTC is now gone!! Figured I'd follow-up in case this happens to someone else..

Hi, Have SRS light that stays on and have OCS Code: B00C3:13-08. Additional Fault Symptom: Circuit Open I have looked under passenger seat and disconnected the yellow connector and all connectors to the Occupant Classification Module Did not help. How can I test the Open Circuit? Should I fine the Airbag Control Module (located under console - supposedly) and check for loose connections there? If all that is connected ok, any suggestions on how to find the fault? Thanks..

A lot to think about for sure. So many variables and I too am learning a ton. My 3 main things are the turning on/off sync with radio power button (don’t like that at all), rear camera, and climate screen.

From HextallS550 on mustang6g. There is a thread about 140 pages for a ton of info going from 4” to 8” but for my situation the electrical architecture is different.

Luckily I’m going from 8” sync 2 to 8” sync 3. I have the USB, GPS, and wiring gizmos. Interesting fact I learned, my sync 3 is 3.3 and my 2012 Edge will NOT have all the functions. This what I’m seeing. I need 3.0 or less

I reached out to Dan at syncprogramming and he states he believes all my issues are programming related. Let’s find out…

This is as built codes I figured I'd give that a try and do hard reset. Did not fix anything. At the beginning, I did play around and got to this. Same issues though. No Power then turn car on, but have to use power button on radio, then sync comes on. Have to turn off the same way. Also, climate screen is there, but nothing works and no temp numbers are there. Here is the latest APIM codes: Sure is frustrating...

Thanks for heads up on 3.4. I have read that 3.4 is risky so I’ll avoid that. I have most if not all the programming done (with Forscan), but it will just not come on when I turn the key but rather I have to push power button on radio. Maybe that is programming somewhere that is just not obvious. I wish I knew if I had a good APIM or not..

Swapped out radio (ACM) and same..New radio works, but did not change anything.

2012 Ford Edge SEL. Upgrade from Sync 2 to Sync 3 Version 3.3, Build 18201. Got the Sync 3 from salvaged 2019 Edge As Built APIM 7D0-01-01 2221 9000 610D APIM 7D0-01-02 0003 4000 021F The 4000 is strange as this means it's a diesel (I think) APIM 7D0-02-01 5553 0004 0086 APIM 7D0-02-02 0000 0000 00DB APIM 7D0-02-03 0000 DC APIM 7D0-03-01 0052 3900 0066 APIM 7D0-04-01 0103 0200 00E2 APIM 7D0-04-02 0001 DE Put back to AsBuilt..Unplugged battery for a couple/few hours..same symptom "Audio Off". Tried again to run APIM test, get "The vehicle conditions are not met" error. When I do click the test button (making sure the conditions are met), the lights flicker like it's trying to do something, then this error pops up. Also, this has been present from the get go after the swap (see attachment), Climate screen display is missing temperature numbers and does not work to the touch. I suspect I have bad APIM...Just for fun, I'm going to try radio (ACM) swap to see if that's it.. Thoughts?

Sorry..did not realize I was in this one..

Can you replace ACM from 2012 with later model ACM without any issues? Upgraded Sync 2 to 3 (2019 Edge) and I suspect ACM issue as it will not turn on audio when I crank car

Plowing thru other treads, and could it be the ACM? Not sure if ACM is sending enough signal power to initialize APIM, or something is not sending signal at all to APIM or?? Not sure how to test this. I read that ACM would need to be at a certain firmware (after 2016, mine is 2012). I also read that since I have 2019 Sync 3, ACM is part of APIM... So confusing...

Update: I think I have most of the codes correct, much easier seeing them in text rather than those stupid codes, but...It seems the APIM does not know that my car is ON, or running, as I have to push the power button on the radio to turn it on. It will stay on for 30 min (as that is what it's supposed to do - Radio without ignition switch play time. As I'm after 30 min it will just turn off. Also, when I turn the car off, it stays on, even after opening door. Again, I don't think it recognizes the car is off, so I have to push the power button to turn it off. I did NOT have this problem with the Sync 2. Are there some codes that need tweaking, or do I have a bad APIM, or??? Any help would be appreciated...

Found 2019 Edge display and APIM for $150.00....Had to go this route...Having some bugs on new one (FORSCAN codes), but working thru them. Have a new post with those problems if anyone wants to help ;;)

Hi..Installed new sync 3 from 2019 Edge and radio works, steering wheel buttons work, heated seats work on home screen only - not on Climate screen. What doesn't work is anything on the Climate screen - the hard buttons work but not the touch screen, rear camera will not come on, and the worst right now, is that when I turn the car off, open the door, the radio still is on and I have to push Power/Vol button to turn off. The AC shuts off, but not the radio. Here is my set up and what I have so far...I had to make some changes as something was strange as for 7D0-01-02 the 2nd block of numbers had 4000 - 4=Diesel Vehicle, SWAC Not Available Any help would be appreciated..

Has anyone done the VISKOO mod to their Sync2 where you replace the board in the back of the APIM and you keep all the functions of the SYNC2, but yet you can also wirelessly jump into Carplay? It's $400.00 but seems so simple, 1 part and poof wireless CarPlay...Has anyone taken the plunge and if so, happy, sad, mad??

Update: Come to find out it was the actuator doors for the AC/Heater. I replaced them both and everything works great.

Daughter has 2012 Edge with Microsoft Sync. Sometimes when I start the car, everything works great AV/Heater, sometimes system will NOT come on at all. She hits a bunch of buttons and sometimes it will come on, but again, sometimes it does not. Sometimes when she does nothing, it will all of a sudden come on. While driving and it's on, it will NOT just turn off. I'm ruling out ground short b/c of this. I have asked her to do the Power on/Defrost button, but she says it's hard because it's the defrost button is sensitive. I guess once she comes home for Christmas break I'll try the button thing, but is there a way to test the Blower Motor Resistor (does it sound like maybe could be this)? Any help will be appreciated.