TxBucki

OK..not sure why I posted this in the Edge forum..Sorry about that...

OK..so basically forget about the battery light on dash, and get the thing running. Seems strange it would fire/start, albeit it was struggling last 2 or 3 times b/c it seemed low battery, and now...it just won't. Any suggestions on even where to start? Air/Fuel/Spark...Check fuel rail to see if it's getting gas?

Noticed my1998 Explorer was getting hard to start and checked battery, and just sitting not running, read 11.4V. It was at the end of the warranty period and figured, it's time. Went and got a new one, popped it in, read 12.5V. Tried starting the car, and it would crank, but not turnover. This is when I noticed the red battery light on dash. Any ideas where to start checking? Alternator? (seems pretty easy to take off and go get it tested). Fuses? Seems strange just replacing battery with a new one caused red battery light to come on... Thanks in advance..

It's a 2012 Edge with Eco Boost 2.0L. I checked all the hoses...Seem to be good. The linkage to the wastegate is loose for sure..I really suspect that is the issue (or the wastegate itself) but will not find out until I take it off. It seems like a pain, but something new... In the process of doing that now...Is there a way to test the wastegate regulating valve on the car? Thanks..

Keep getting P0299 code and suspect Turbo wastegate as the code indicates, but I have seem where many other factors may play into this code so you don't necessarily have to replace the turbo itself. I did check the hoses and don't see any holes or loose clamps. Is there a way to test Turbocharger sensor assy or the Turbocharger wastegate regulating valve solenoid, or finally the Turbocharger bypass valve? I do have some play in the linkage to the wastegate but not sure how much would be too much play and can you adjust this? I may take off the exhaust that connects right by the wastegate and see how much play is there, but if there are easier things to do before that, I would want to try... Thanks..Ed

Thanks. Looks like you’re the 1st. Did the climate control work on screen or do you have to use hard buttons? I guess you can switch between the 2.

Since the DTC mentions Sensor "D" I figured I should look all around the seat frame for multiple sensors and maybe luck into finding something obvious and sure enough I found the connector wires were severed when the harness "fell" into the track and once someone moved the seat, poof...Spliced in the wires and made sure the harness does NOT fall back into the track. Started up the car and DTC is now gone!! Figured I'd follow-up in case this happens to someone else..

Hi, Have SRS light that stays on and have OCS Code: B00C3:13-08. Additional Fault Symptom: Circuit Open I have looked under passenger seat and disconnected the yellow connector and all connectors to the Occupant Classification Module Did not help. How can I test the Open Circuit? Should I fine the Airbag Control Module (located under console - supposedly) and check for loose connections there? If all that is connected ok, any suggestions on how to find the fault? Thanks..

A lot to think about for sure. So many variables and I too am learning a ton. My 3 main things are the turning on/off sync with radio power button (don’t like that at all), rear camera, and climate screen.

From HextallS550 on mustang6g. There is a thread about 140 pages for a ton of info going from 4” to 8” but for my situation the electrical architecture is different.

Luckily I’m going from 8” sync 2 to 8” sync 3. I have the USB, GPS, and wiring gizmos. Interesting fact I learned, my sync 3 is 3.3 and my 2012 Edge will NOT have all the functions. This what I’m seeing. I need 3.0 or less

I reached out to Dan at syncprogramming and he states he believes all my issues are programming related. Let’s find out…

This is as built codes I figured I'd give that a try and do hard reset. Did not fix anything. At the beginning, I did play around and got to this. Same issues though. No Power then turn car on, but have to use power button on radio, then sync comes on. Have to turn off the same way. Also, climate screen is there, but nothing works and no temp numbers are there. Here is the latest APIM codes: Sure is frustrating...

Thanks for heads up on 3.4. I have read that 3.4 is risky so I’ll avoid that. I have most if not all the programming done (with Forscan), but it will just not come on when I turn the key but rather I have to push power button on radio. Maybe that is programming somewhere that is just not obvious. I wish I knew if I had a good APIM or not..

Swapped out radio (ACM) and same..New radio works, but did not change anything.