HotLights

So its been almost 7 months and I'm back with the final product review. This stuff is still intact after countless washes and the Canadian winter. Here are some pics:

Has anyone thought about vinyl wrapping the rocker panels instead of painting?

Just to clarify!

My Edge did not come with the factory sub woofer and hence did not come with an enclosure. What was in place was a small cubby hole about 10"x10". That is what I modified to create an enclosure.

No comment on looks but probably should move the lights up to that widest chrome strip area so as not to block air flow?

I also would l think that. However, I did see an edge with a 20" light bar in that bumper area. I guess one would just have to estimate how much airflow would be lost, and if it is substantial enough to cause an issue. If you're towing I imagine it would be a bad idea.

I guess it's just my way of pretending I have a Subaru. LOL I should of just bought one when I had the chance.

Did some quick photo editing:

Or with the smaller style lights:

Has anyone ever thought about doing this or seen it on any edge out there?

(I realize this is for Subaru and it looks really good like this)

I would really like to see a rally style edge, I have looked around a bit and haven't found much.

Thoughts?

I've created an album:

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/gallery/album/702-2014-sel-subamp-install/

Well that's interesting, they were up ever since I posted it on the 9th. I don't know why they would of been moved?

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/18995-2014-sel-aftermarket-subamp-install/

Here is a link to the install I just did.

Final product!

This whole project took me about a week to complete. Because I was not constantly working on it and because all the cure time I had to wait for the epoxy and fibreglass. It turned out good, it does rattle some areas but not so bad. Sub sounds good but could sound better.

I plan on building a custom wood enclosure to mount behind the trim and keep the sub in the existing location.

If you have any questions please let me know!

I had a better line out converter on order, but it's still in the mail. So I had to make a late night run to Walmart and pick up this thing:

A good mounting spot is between the passenger front and rear door. The only problem is that I was unable to tap into both rear speakers as the instructions suggest:

There was a perfect spot to ground the LOC and after tapping into the RR speaker I had to run the RCA and Remote Turn on wires:

Because this is a temporary LOC I only twisted the wires together and used electrical tape. It's ghetto but it works:

Because it was hard to find a constant 12v wire for the remote turn on, I had to run a wire from the main power at the amp and connect it to the yellow wire at the LOC. I then ran the remote turn on wire back to the amp. The reason I did it this way was because the LOC has something interal that turns on/off the remote turn on. Even with a 12v constant going to it. If I just jumped the remote turn on straight off the main power, the amp would never turn off!

Next it was time to mount the sub in the trim panel, I created a template and cut it out:

It fit fairly well. However, I did use a gasket sealant maker to ensure it was nice and airtight:

I ran the speaker wire under the grey sound mating:

​I chose to ground the amp to this pre-existing "bolt" under the storage bin:

Next on the list was to route the main power wire for the amp. I found a nice large grommet right behind the battery:

It was easier to remove the battery and install the wire:

This crappy picture is showing where the power wire came out, it was well above the brake peddle:

Then I ran the wire under all the kick panels to the rear:

​I used a plastic epoxy to secure the initial half of the box:

Then I used fibreglass to patch the large hole, this was my first time working with it:

After hardening for a couple days I used silicone to seal the holes:

I then used a undercoating spray (Rocker Guard) to seal the rest and provide some sound proofing. The smell from the fibreglass was horrendous so this helped:

The sub was calling for an enclosure of .50 cubic feet minimum and the stock cubby hole measured only .30, so I had to modify it:

I'll post the rest tomorrow. Gotta go!

Okay so I asked about a week ago if it was possible to do an aftermarket sub and amp install on a model that didn't include a stock sub (Without SONY). I didn't have many replies, I only assume because it's quite the task to do an install without a factory sub being in place already. But I have done it:

I'm going to be putting up the install I did momentarily

Following!

I would also like to know the location of where to install the LOC. I just purchased the Scosche LOC90 with remote turn on built in and remote bass adjuster.

I would like to know if it's easier and better to install up front (either under dash or right behind factory deck) or tap it somewhere near the rear speaker wires.

Very nice! The sport looks real good. This is something I will consider in the future. Thanks!

if those emblems weren't present, they couldn't attract dust....

Haha yeah I did think about debadging it. Does anyone have any pics of their edge debadged?

Hi All,

I'm looking for some info as to installing a aftermarket sub in the stock sub location. As you see (random photo) the cubby on the right is where the stock sub should be but because it is an SEL it did not come with one.

I have looked at other forums with no answers and searched Ford parts online for and exploded view. I could get every piece separate and do the install myself or I can custom make something with this forums help! I do have some experience with car audio and installing subs/amps/rca converters/etc.

I'm thinking of using the existing space to mount a nice 8" or 10" and fabricating some sort of face place for it. I would run the wiring then seal the inside of the box. However, I am not familiar with the Edge as I just recently purchased one. I am looking for wiring diagrams and any pictures of the removed trim pieces.

My idea is that I would use the RCA Converter as you normally would and find a nice ignition wire to have the AMP turn on hooked up. Then run power and ground wires like usual. I'm not in high school anymore so I'm not looking for 500W RMS sound. Perhaps 150-300RMS.

If anyone can provide suggestions that would be much appreciated. I did look at the JL audio enclosed boxes already and its not my style. I like to create something unique.

Thanks!