Kleber Gomes

Hi, have a Ford Edge 2013 equipped with MFT.

Is it possible to import a list of POI (txt)?

There's a list with the location of speed traps, usually shared as txt file, that in general can easily be added to GPS maps and that would warn you about speed traps and the speed limit in the road.

Has anybody ever tried to import it in MFT? Any recommendation on this?

Have just replaced the fluid of PTU and used Motul 75W140. From some discussions it seems to be a good lube, maybe the best one available here in Brazil.

I hope not to have any surprise ;-)

Hi,

Yesterday I found a place to change the oil from PTU. The guy has never done it before but with the assistance of some videos in youtube he quickly figured out how to proceed.

My Edge is 2013 with nearly 50.000km. I'm not the first owner but for sure the other one hasn't changed it. What I found was the same standard reported everywhere ... sludge tied to the bolt, and much less fluid than expected ... from the originally ~ 500 ml that is the factory recommendation, we could remove something between 250 to 300 ml only. The rest probably was turned into sludge, as there has never been any visible leakage.

The PTU was then refilled with around 500 ml of Motul 75W140 fluid. Now I'm planning to run for around 1.000km and go for another change, and then to change it at every 6 months with hopes to extend as much as possible the life of such component.

Questions:

1. Have you ever heard about an additive to oil/fluid called Militec? Guys here in Brazil are also adding a small portion of it in PTU (they claim there's a video in Internet showing a car working normally without any drop of oil (after using militec). So, would you recommend?

2. What about transmission and differential? When are you changing the oil/fluid of such components?

BR, Kleber

If this is a natonal chain, would you share the name?

It is a brazilian company. Some links:

http://www.pradomatic.com.br/

http://www.pradomatic.com.br/single-post/2016/10/16/Ford-EDGE-35-quebra-caixa-de-transfer%C3%AAncia-4x4-com-50000-km

The last one is where they offer their solution they claim to have developed, which consists in replacing some components. (Don't know much more about it neither anybody who had gone for it. Nevertheles the guy explianed and it is actually pretty expensive as well ~ 2.000USD ... a brand new one, for sure is more than 3.000USD and is subject to the same problem after some time)

If they are competent, it should not be a problem. They would run the solvent through, allow it to "desludge", then drain it all out, fill it up, then repeat the drain/fill a couple of times more, with driving short distances in between. That SHOULD nullify any worries about remaining solvent. I don't know if you can dry out kerosene or not, but that would be nifty. There ARE organic solvents that evaporate on their own, and are used to clean out electronics.

This is the problem ... to know if they are competent. I'm not sure, don't know anybody that had used their services. Just found them in the internet.

So, from your feedback this option to clean up with some solvent, before refilling, would be a good option.

Yes, it is interesting to learn..., and what has to be solvent? I change oil every year in PTU, in a year it strongly darkens, but nevertheless it liquid and looks much better than when I have made it the first time three years ago). So far I have found only such solution for myself. Cheap but good!)

Yes.

The guy mentioned that in the first time he expects almost nothing to be removed because now with +3 years and 45.000km almost everything has actually turned into that sludge. So, the proposition of the solvent was exactly to remove most of the sludge.

I did understand that the proposition of the disucssions from the forum is to leave the sludge as it is and with more frequency to change the oil, so this mix of old and new, if changed with more frequency in the beginning, would help to clean up the sludge.

When I heard the mechanic proposal (solvent) it looks interesting, but I got concerned if there wouldn't be a "side effect". Firstly because there are some rubber in mechanical connection of the components (I presume) and secondly because in my humble opinion, it would be impossible to remove 100% of the solvent. So, i was afraid that such remaining solvent could bring any issue and affect the new oil (possibly leading to a HW failure). But as I'm not a mechanic I'm not sure if these side effects could really happen, or not.

Hi, question

I was talking with the owner of a company that works with oil changing for transmissions, etc.

He said that he knows the problem with Edge's PTU and he mentioned that his has a solution for the problem (developed by themselves) where he replaces some internal components (not original from Ford) and promises the problem will be solved. He gives guarantee of 2 years.

Additionally, I asked him about just changing the oil ... he proposed to remove with a pump what is possible, and to inject some solvent (querosene) to clean up that mass that is internally impregned, and after this process, to refill with brand new oil. What is your view on that? Would be something good or some solvent may remain in the component and affect the new oil too?

BR/kleber

 

 

There is no way that this approach is worse than leaving the old crappy oil in there. It's not ideal, but it's a huge step forward; it would ensure the case is full, and it would get some new oil in there, and it would remove a lot of the failed oil along with the sediment and particulates. I used this approach; I did it three times in one month to get the unit flushed out, then I did it once a month for 6 months, and now I do it once every 6 months. I've put about 25,000 miles on the vehicle since I first did this and it now has 165,000 miles on it but is slated to be traded in within 30 days when the new vehicle gets here.

Hi, yes for sure leaving the way it is right now is not an option.

The question is ... technically (and why not financially) is it better to go for a full removal, cleaning and 100% refilling with brand new oil (at every 6m or a year) ... or to go for some rounds of removing (vaccum) and just topping?

BR/Kleber

Guys, question.

Some of the shops ar actually telling me that just removing part of the oil from PTU and that mixing the lefting part with brand new oil would not be "healthy" to the PTU. On the other hand, they are proposing to remove the PTU and proceed with the removal and cleaning, refilling it with 100% brand new oil.

What is your view on that? (The mix of new and old oil mixed up together) Would this bring any extra risk to the PTU? I'm planning to move with the removal of old oil without removing the PTU but was concerned on which would be the risks to have a mixture of oil inside of the PTU.

BR/Kleber

Hi guys,

Thanks for the answers and suggestions.

Actually I'm trying to find any place that could just change/topping the oil, without removing the PTU ... but it is being hard to find. So far, all of them want to really go for the full PTU removal. Maybe they're afraid of taking that action and in case of a failure of the PTU that I can blame them of doing something wrong, so they really want to go for the removal, cleaning and refuel. Others are saying that keeping old oil together with new oil would not be good and just accept to go for the service if they can replace all the oil (removing PTU too). But I'll keep trying as I agree with you that topping, at least, can't be damaging :-)

Question, about the oil, any special recommendation? I've called the dealer asking for the original oil ... and the answer was that such oil wasn't even in their catalog.

One shop told me they work with a brand called "Motul" ... what do you think?

And finally, have you seen reported any issue/problem with the differential? Only the PTU is really failing, or were there issues also with the differencial? (Because differencial is also not mentioned to replace oil, and just in the rear there are almost 4 liters.

BR/Kleber

I had my local dealer replace to fluid by opening the fill hole and sucking out the old oil. They charged me somewhere around $80 for it. I asked if it was common for these units to fail, and they told me that they had replaced some PTU's, but not many. They also told me that they felt the way the fail was, the seal begins to leak, and as the fluid leaks out, the remaining oil gets thick and gummy, not providing the needed lubrication. So the comment you were given about checking for leaks is probably valid.

 

If your local dealer does not want to perform the fluid change, try any transmission shop. They already have the necessary pumping equipment and are familiar with the process. All they need to know is the location of the fill plug. Insist on their using Motorcraft fluids to make certain your getting the right stuff.

Hi,

Nice that you could find a dealer that proceed with this change. Yes, after my search, I have absolutely no hope that any dealer here would accept to change oil without removing the PTU (despite living in one of the largest cities of the world - Sao Paulo has around 20M people). But even in this scenario I just found 1 dealer after discussing a lot about the subject.

I have started to seek for other alternatives, as some of you have mentioned, like transmission shops. So for, none found that would do it, but I'll keep trying.

Thanks!

Have just called local Ford (customer relationship) about the PTU oil replacement.

In the manual (revisions) they say that dealers always check the level of oil, and complete it if something is missing ... then I asked how do they check the level of that oil, given there isn't any mechanism for that and that dealers don't remove the PTU for this purpose. The answer: "to check the level of oil" = check for apparent leakages. If there's no leakage, the oil level is ok. :-)

Then I argued that once you have a leakage then you already have a problem, so when Ford will remove the PTU they will probably find a problem that will require me to replace the full PTU, of course that at my expenses. And my claim was exactly to have a preventive action to avoid getting to this point ....

Of course, the standard answer ... that they always check for leakages in the revisions, and if a leakage is detected early this will not damage the PTU and that I have to continue following the planned revisions with their dealers, bla bla bla (I also asked if in case of following all these instructions, and having a problem with PTU if Ford would cover them ... of course they will not).

It is a good car, but I'm really upset with Ford relationship. Even when customers want to be pro-active to avoid problems you're really left with no options.

Probably it makes no sense, but one of the guys that had problems with AWD suggested that in order to do not have such problem to replace this part: PART NUMBER S20068 (Throttle Body)

Unfortunately through the site it is not possible to get any contact of the person to further ask him what exactly he had in mind.

This code is apparently not from a Ford part. Any idea on how this part could fit in Ford's AWD system to eventually prevent or reduce chances of failure. As I'm not a mechanic I couldn't figure out if this could help anyway or if the guy was wrongly advised.

Apparently there's a page with some details of the part:

http://www.autopartsandstuff.com/standard-s20068-electronicthrottlebody.aspx

Actually, I'm really worried with this potential problem with PTU. Here in Brazil we have a site where people can complain in case of issues related to warranty and/or quality, and there are many complains related with PTU. Additionally, here the warranty from Ford is only of 3 years and not possibility at all of extended warranty for customer before 16/17.

I have contacted many dealers asking for the oil replacement and all of them give me the usual answer that it is not recommended to change oil by Ford, and that they don't do it. many of them also told me that this is a very rare problem. I just found 1 dealer that accepted to replace after a long discussion and after talking directly with the mechanical chief however they just offered me to remove the PTU for that. Their proposal is to keep the car during 02 days and to charge me > 450 USD just for that. (I'm not allowed to see them working)

From people that had the problem, Ford was asking > 3.000 USD to replace the PTU.

Since August the warranty on my 2013 AWD is over, with 43k Km by now. Nothing unusual so far, but I'm really really worried as in case of problems the costs may be dramatically high.

Your vehicle is JUST past the limit, so it may be something your dealer can take up with Ford, or you can contact Ford directly.

Well, unfortunately, the dealers and FORD relationship in Brazil is even worst than in the US. Here there are no TSB and despite a problem be very well known in the market they insist to say that they don't know. Additionally, there is also no option to ask from government support, so all you can do is to prosecute them ... but this takes costs and time (time without the car).

I was expecting to have this TSB to try to use with the dealers here, in case of problem. But as my build date is out of the range informed, this means that this will not be possible too.

In this case, I just can hope that Ford fixed the problem by the time mine was built, so the problem would not pop up anymore. If it does happen, I'll have to pay all the costs (which are also higher here)

Thanks anyway!

That is strange, maybe they have country restrictions? Did the website come up at all? Did it display a Vehicle Info tab and did you click on that and fill in your Edge's VIN? If you post some pics of what's happening when you visit the site, it will be helpful.

Sorry, it was my mistake. Understood I had to create an account to get access to the information, but actually this is just not needed.

Well, after checking in Etis, just found out that my car: Build Date: 19.04.2013

The TSB states that extended warranty would be provided to vehicles manufactured until March 28, 2013, therefore mine is out of the extended warranty.

Is there any track of records of brake problems happening with Edge 13 manufactured after March/13? Has Ford changed anything in the production after this date?

Thanks/Kleber

You can look up your vehicle's production date here:

https://www.etis.ford.com

 

As far as date range I am sure it is a combination of the vehicles that have been complained about and the batches of related parts involved.

Hi,

I don't have access to this site. Is there any cost to get it? When filling in with my data, it was asking an address for invoicing :-0

Hi, the TSB mentioning the extended warranty mentions that vehicles manufactured until March 28, 2013 will be covered.

Doubts:

1. Any specific reason why only cars until this date? After this, what/anything happened that will prevent the failure to happen in newer models?

2. How can I find out the date in which my car was manufactured? (Mandatory to ask to a dealer, or is there any option)?

Thanks, Kleber

Hi guys, have an Edge Ltd AWD 2013 and recently noticed the "shift to park" issue in my car. Thanks to this forum, I found the TSB and used it to discuss with my dealer about the recommendation to change some parts to fix the problem. Actually, they proceed with the services and the issue was fixed.

Is there any place, site, forum, etc, where we can access the complete list of TSB related to a specific model (as my one)? Maybe I have some issue that could not detect and by reading the TSB may realize that.

Thanks,

Kleber

Mine is 2013 AWD, and I would really love if I could buy an ESP. I'm the 2nd owner and the car is still within the original warranty, but local Ford has already informed me that they do not sell ESP here in Brazil.

In case of any serious trouble, like engine related or with the transmission, the cost to fix/replace is many times more expensive than the one to get an ESP.

Really upset with Ford because of their decision.

Took a while but Ford finally resolved the problem for us by buying the vehicle back. This was done through the BBB Auto-Line and was accomplished through

the mediation stage and we did not have to go through arbitration. Under the California Lemom Law rules, we got back just shy of 90% of what we paid for the car, including tax and license, based on the miles we had on the car when we took it to the dealer after the first incident. Bought a new 2016 Honda CR-V Touring and still had $2K left over.

Good that your problem was solved.

Just wondering what Ford will do with the car ... reselling to another customer?

Show the dealer the SHIFT TO PARK - related TSB(s), that should get 'em kickstarted.

I'm gonna do it this friday ... just expecting to see how Ford will answer this request in the dealer here in Brazil. (they're famous for the "bad quality" in any support after sales). Let's see.

My cousin has a 2012 FWD Edge and he started to have problems after replacing some internal lights by LED. Suddenly the car "died" (including ignition) and only some few electrical parts continue to work. Do you have anything similar? Have you replaced any electrical part (including lamps) outside of dealers, or not by original products?

BR/Kleber

Recently this started to pop up in my car (Edge Ltd AWD 13). I'm in Brazil so I'm not sure how prompt dealers will be to solve this, even though there is a TSB.

Will check it out, but at least you guys have helped me a lot to understan exactly what is the problem (I have already lost a battery).

BR