pedro2u

could be your ballast.... Unless I over compilated the repair, I had to pull off the nose/front bumper so that I could get to the ballasts and swap them from side to side..... and it followed the ballast to the other side.  A pain to pull the bumper, but I think that might be your next step  

You're welcome!  Sharing... isn't that why we're all here?

so 2 of the 6 CarQuest Coils I replaced last fall have since failed in 4 months.. Advance Auto replaced them under warranty. but what a pain.  I spoke to my local Indy about coil failures, and his experience is he's seeing the same rate with OEM and the aftermarket coils lately

On my 2011 Limited (which may be different than the SEL), the left side touch pad on the steering wheel controls it. Look at your fuel gauge in the cluster and then hit the down arrow on the steering wheel to get down to Display.  Then Hit the right arrow to cycle through the formats it can display.  I always chose the combined fuel  and temperature gauge myself

Thanks, and agree with you on OEM vs aftermarket.  It was all the local part store carried when my car was limping along so I went for it, and true, similar price for OEM which makes the aftermarket failures more painful

I started having rough idle issues and got codes for a coil at 165,000 miles, so I proactively replaced all 6 ignition coils in my 2011 Edge Limited with CarQuest coils exactly a year ago.  One of those coils failed in 9 months and was replaced under warranty, another one failed today.  Luckily I had saved the original coils I'd removed or I'd be stranded.  2 out of 6 in a year????

Anyone else having bad luck with these coils?

I put Mustang GT wheels on my 2011.  Fortunately the Mustang hub was slightly larger than the Edge so I only had to buy the exact size hub centric rings for about $20 on eBay

Good luck with the machining!  Let us know how it goes (and what it cost!)

this website always helps me,  just change the year to do the compares:

https://www.wheel-size.com/size/ford/edge/2014/

Center bore:

2014 is 63.4mm

2008 is 70.5 mm

You're going to need an adapter 

My 2011 Edge with 165K miles had a very similar issue last fall.  My wife was complaining that during highway driving there would be an occasional shudder/miss on long hills.  I would test drive it and it would run fine.  I told her that it could be caused by so many things..... and that I could fix it, if and when it threw a code! 

It took about a month, but finally....  a code!  Bad coil! Of course it was back on the firewall $@&#%!!!, so I figured it was a good time to replace all 6 coils along with the plugs while I've got it torn down, especially given the mileage. 

Problem solved

In your case, if one coil already failed, aren't they all at their end of life? 

They say "no banana is older than the rest"

Rereading enigma-2's  always helpful posts,  I see my maintenance log and my Parts log aren't the same.  The maintenance log missed several DIY part installations, so to include it all, here's the $1,762 I spent in parts over the years....

If this helps, I've kept a log of maintenance done on my 2011 Limited. First few entries are previous owner off the Carfax,  I've owned it since 40K miles and any 2016 entries (like the PTU failure) and have  attempted to maintain 5K mile oil changes and tire rotations:

You don’t mention it, but assume you’ve done the reset?  Works on my 2011 every time this happens.

Step 1: Hold down both the climate control power and defrost buttons at the same time. Press down for 5 seconds. Step 2: Release the climate control power and defrost buttons. Step 3: Hold just the temperature control power button for a few seconds

I'm no expert, but I do have 2016 Mustang GT wheels on my 2011 Edge. So I say look at the data and decide

Your 2018 Edge wheel sizes can be checked here:        https://www.wheel-size.com/size/ford/edge/2018/

The 2019 Mustang here:  https://www.wheel-size.com/size/ford/mustang/2019/

Based on that data, seems like you'd need adapters to convert your Edge 5x108 bolt pattern to accommodate the 5x114.3 wheels.  Looks like most adapters I find would push the wheel 1.25" farther from the hub if that works for you. 

still equally well hidden.  YouTube is your friend:  

you don't mention what year you have, but on my 2011 it's this:  

 after that, you set your own code like this:

Enter the factory set code.
2. Within five seconds press the 1 • 2 on the keypad.
3. Enter your personal 5-digit code. Each number must be entered
within five seconds of each other.

Although there may be other causes for disappearing lines, I can confirm that my lines disappeared years ago on my 2011 Edge, long before the camera finally stopped working.  I replaced the camera 3 weeks ago and the camera now works and the lines returned as well!   Great thread on it here: 

I only mentioned the headlight control module because it's listed on the diagram.  I believe it's the sensor on your dash at the base and center of the windshield that turns your headlights on when it gets dark.  Probably not your issue.

If I'm reading it correctly from the diagram, it appears headlight power first goes from the battery (fused) over to the left headlight  via pin 3 BRN (VPWR) .  Power exits from the left headlight (VCC) on pin 5 BLU/GRY then goes to the right headlight pin 5.  I assume you've checked this path? If not, I might start there

Good luck

Not sure if this helps, but I found a diagram for 2008 online here:  https://portal-diagnostov.com/en/2020/04/11/headlights-ford-edge-sel-2008-system-wiring-diagrams/

And a used replacement headlight control module here in case that's the culprit:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/234122769083

Good luck!

Happy to have found this thread.  My 2011 Edge camera has mostly NOT worked for at least the last 5 years.  It would occasionally surprise us when it would come on.....  But thanks to the YouTube video posted by enigma-2 and the $60 camera I purchased on Amazon it now works again. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09H4M12TV?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

The video makes it simple.  The only issue I had was that my trusty 25 year old vice grips were not up to the task to remove the  6 studs,  even after a soaking with PB Blaster.  So as of now it's retired (recycled) and a run to the hardware store delayed the repair but got me a new replacement from Milwaukee.  It had no issue with the studs.

The only change I'd suggest to the video is when to test the replacement camera.  In the video, he tests it after he has reassembled everything but the back cover.  I suggest testing sooner,  as soon as you've popped the outside panel with the camera back in place and you're at the point where you can plug in the connectors.  It would just save some disassembly time in the event it didn't work for any reason

All in all though, an easy and very rewarding DIY!  Thanks to all for your contributions

Pete

digging up an old thread, but at 150K miles my 2011 finally started getting the Autorac and traction faults, and the code signaled the Steering Angle Sensor.  So following this great thread, and a few videos, I replaced the sensor today.  $46. Wait 30 minutes after disconnecting the battery then actual replacement took 30-45 minutes 

Instructions here are spot on with a few differences.  On my 2011 Limited, the airbag connector had squeeze tabs to remove it (easy).  No knife needed to pry it up.  And there was no 18mm steering wheel nut, it was a large torx bolt (W708887S434)........ and finally the 3 screws holding the clock spring were T10's not T20's.  The Steering Angle sensor came out together with the clock spring, there were no separate screws.  Then the Angle Sensor easily pulls right out of the clock spring. Reassembly was a snap, plug the new sensor into it's fixed connectors and then carefully slip the clock spring over it and screw it down and make the connections

Thanks again to all for this great thread. Shows that sometimes these threads are timeless

Pete

Thanks for the replies.  Enigma-2, In my searches for the answer,  I had previously read the link you shared, but appreciate your followup.  And DaMiFo, I can say that the occupancy sensor in the seat is at least sensing occupancy, since when I sit in the donor passenger seat, the console indicator switches from Passenger Airbag OFF to ON. And for codes, I have an Actron CP9690, which appears to be able to read some modules, but when I plug it into my Edge, those options aren't present.  In fact there's an Airbag test on the tool, but it's not available when I plug it in.  

I did watch a few more airbag fix YouTube videos, most of no value....  that video said the most common cause was the the yellow connector under the passenger seat should be reseated, which I just did with no success.

My Edge is scheduled to be at the dealer for the Brake Booster extended warranty fix on Tuesday, so I may ask if they can attempt to reset it (although I fear a massive diag charge, but I'll ask about cost first)

I'll post the results

I have a 2011 Ford Escape Limited with a 10-way leather drivers seat, and decided to upgrade the front passenger leather seat to match it:  from a 6-way seat to the 10-way passenger seat that was finally available starting in 2012.  I found a matching 2012 seat in great condition for only $75 at a recycler located 180 miles roundtrip away in Rhode Island  and picked it up Thursday.  I'd been reviewing wiring diagrams for the last several days in preparation.

So made the swap today, and was surprised to find the connectors for both the old and donor seat were pinned with wires in the same locations.  Great!  There were no additional or missing wires when comparing them.  I was expecting to have to do some wiring.  So I disconnected the battery for 30 minutes and I rolled the dice and plugged in the replacement 10-way.

Reconnected the battery....... Every function on the new seat worked perfectly:  back/forward, up/down, seatback reclines, seat tilt down and up, heated seat!  Great! 

But now the airbag light was on.... comes on at initial start, goes out for a few seconds, then stays on solid

Oh, Merry Christmas to all!!!!!! 

Now, to get that light off.  I looked at the images that the recycler had for the wreck and saw that the drivers airbag had deployed (not the passenger).  But assuming that the pretensioner had fired for both seats on the wreck, I pulled the donor seat back out (grrr), and swapped in the known good tensioner from my original seat.  It was also pin for pin compatible.  Reinstalled and connected everything.  No change

And that's where I am.  seat looks great, works great, and the Airbag light is still on, plus there are no OBD codes at all.

Any suggestions?  How do I reset this light?  Any guidance would be greatly appreciated

I had  a similar problem with my 2011 Ford Edge Limited, except is was the Emergency Flashers that would turn on by themselves randomly.  The killer was that it would occasionally happen when the car was unattended and I'd return to a dead battery - multiple times.!!!! I ended up replacing the panel with one from a 2013 and the problem was fixed and has never returned.  I'd say just replace it.  Those capacitive touch panels are suspect in my book

Check it here:

https://www.wheel-size.com/size/ford/edge/2014/

https://www.wheel-size.com/size/ford/explorer/2013/

but hub is the same and offsets are similar.  I have Mustang GT wheels on my 2011, there's lots of room to play around with from my experience

This fixed mine!!!

I've been driving my 2011 Edge Limited for the last 5 years having to turn the heat up to 80 on the drivers side in order to get any heat on the that side.  Passenger side was always fine.  I've been reading these "repairs" that were all over the map for what was wrong.  The dealer even looked at it and said they found no problem.   Last week I came across the YouTube video that fixed my problem.  Been working for a week......  Wished I'd found it 5 years ago...  There are 2 versions of the recalibration, 1 for Limited and 1 for SEL.  You may want to try this

and a similar fix for the SEL's that use a key to start