commbubba19

If you hate Sync 3, I don't even want to know how badly you will hate Toyota's Entune system. I have that in my Toyota and it is the worst infortainment interface I have ever seen in my life. I have owned the previous Sync system as well in numerous vehicles and really enjoyed it. However I see Sync 3 leaps and bounds better even though it does have a learning curve to it. It is probably the best infortainment interface I have ever experienced

My 4Runner had the Entune and you're right. That system was absolutely horrible. In the span of a year that system would randomly wipe itself back to all factory settings atleast 3 times for no reason. Not to mention the interface selections were so small and the screen itself so small, that I always hit the wrong thing.

I still hate touch screens in cars but the interface on the Sync 3 is better than most. I do wish there was an option for it to go back to home screen after maybe 10-15 seconds. That's one thing the Entune had that I miss.

I also still hate the fact that IA doesn't unlock the rear doors if the ignition is on and you try to open it from the outside. I do this alot to let my kids out and always have to remember to unlock the doors. They're too little to open them from the inside.

This is the Dawn one. I liked it. The material is soft and flexible. Nice quality to it.

Bingo!!!!!!!

Lean over what?

One of these days I'll try to take a picture of what I'm talking about.

been messing and one thing that i think may help is to raise the seat. i'm not tall but i don't like raising the seat unnecessarily higher than normal. after raising the seat about an inch i can see over the mirror vs trying to see through it and that helps. still getting used to the new seating position. i still think it'd be nice to have a little a-pillar window or mount the side view mirror to the door.

Not sure if this helps explain my issue better.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle_blind_spot

The A pillar doesn't hide the entire curb and you can't actually see the front tire anyway. I guess you just get used to it.

I don't understand this comment.

If you're making a left turn onto a divided highway, the mirror/a-pillar block the view of the median completely. In standard vehicles where the a-pillar is not so large or far forward, or the side view mirror is not attached to the a-pillar but maybe the door, you can clearly see the median while making the turn to avoid hitting it.

When browsing the app store on my iPhone I only see Ford Remote Access and MyFordMobile. Though some of the remote access features would be nice, it requires a annual fee. I registered with MyFordMobile but when I enter the VIN, it says its invalid. This app seems geared more towards Hybrid owners.

Are there any apps that link my phone with Sync 3 beyond the basic BT functionality? I'm not one for wanting to plug my phone in every time I drive it.

Also - in the Sync 3 menu it refers to applications that can be loaded. But there are none and no apps listed to be installed. Seriously what is the purpose of all this? I'm pretty technical but there doesn't seem to be much concise information out there.

Found this but it wasn't linked in the other thread.

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?app=forums&module=post&section=post&do=reply_post&f=81&t=19964

I wouldn't be too keen on doing this at home but it seems that the roof panel next to the moonroof may be the cause of some noises.

So far, mine has been reasonably quiet. I'm pretty annoyed by consistent rattles (periodic noises due to rough roads don't bother me).

However, I noticed I was getting noise like plastic shuffling popping from the rear. I had the windows tinted and was wondering if they removed a panel to get a clean line on the tint of the hatch. Sure enough, tapping on the interior paneling on the hatch it's pretty noisy and not very snug. I had some window A/C foam you can pick up at Lowes around. It comes in different sizes. The interior panel running along the top of the rear hatch window was loose but fully secured via the plastic pins. I gave a slight tug and release two pins so I had some room and shoved the foam inside along the top. Making sure it was down far enough inside to be secure. Popped it back in place and now when tapping on it no more noise.

Went for my normal drive today and it seems much improved.

Every vehicle I've owned has had rattles, cheap to expensive. My 4Runner had odd noises. A really bad rattle on windy days coming from the front a-pillar. Never fixed it except to pound on it.

My '12 Subaru WRX was horrible. I had foam in almost every pillar and interior trim piece. 09 Civic I had the door cards off multiple times due to rattles and the sunroof rattled horribly.

My '15 Evo was a lost cause. Every single piece of interior rattled. I had felt and foam everywhere on that too.

Good luck in tracking down all your rattles.

The muffler finally arrived and had it installed today. So far so good.

Muffler or resonator?

If it is the giant suitcase thing in the middle of the car where two pipes head back to the actual muffler, that is the resonator. On the original video, I was going to say that's an exhaust leak. Probably like they said, a bad weld on the resonator and it isn't quite sealing.

Honestly, It'd be nice if an aftermarket company would make a resonator delete kit. They have them for Mustangs which have a similar resonator design.

Found the Dawn one. Seems to fit better than others.

https://www.carid.com/dawn/rear-bumper-protector-mpn-rbp-005.html

http://www.dawn-ent.com/RBP-005-Ford-Edge-Rear-Bumper-Protector?search=

So when making a left turn, how are you able to see the median to make sure you don't run into it? I'm having to really guess where the car is in the road to make sure i don't.

I noticed the edge since it's windshield is raked so aggressively, that the a-pillar is quite large. It doesn't help that the Mirror is mounted where it is either. Normally not an issue but i'm finding it difficult to navigate turns where you really need to see the road right where the a-pillar/mirror is. I noticed on some hondas and even the Lincoln MKC, they resolve this by mounting the side mirror on the door and put a small window in the a-pillar to help navigate turns.

How are you guys dealing with this? I'd really like to see Ford utilize the MKC design in the next refreshment of the Edge. It's a pretty obvious oversight IMO.

I wonder if this would work

http://www.stage3motorsports.com/S3M-VTAMODP-2013-2014-F150-3-5L-EcoBoost-S3M-Plastic-VTA-MOD-Plug.html

just need to look under the engine and locate the re-circulation tube.

Does this happen with any other app, and can you try deleting Pandora then reinstall it?

 

Shaay

Deleting the application from my phone or sync?

Thanks for the response, commbubba19. Do you have the latest version of Pandora installed?

 

Shaay

Still does it.

Yes it is the latest.

My gut would tell me that perhaps people were using the ratchet to overtighten and thus strip or damage the plug or pan itself. Is this plug meant to be hand tightened?

I could see that.

Oh and here's a picture of the 35w OEM ballast on the bottom of the headlight. i asked TRS and they said right now no one makes a 55w version.

Just wanted to post after changing the oil in my 16 Sport that the oil pan plug is different than what was posted.

Mine did not have a spot for a 3/8 drive ratchet. instead i grabbed it with vice locks and turned. I'm not fond of this design and as you can see, I somehow broke the little piece on the side. I'll buy a replacement but for now the broken piece didn't effect its ability to function.

I wonder why the change in design.

Here's a pic of the OEM D3S bulb.

My replacement bulb

Installed. It's not a dramatic difference but it looks more pleasing to my eye.

The reason for the Warm White LED color (LEDs DONT have to all be white with blue hue) is it's easier on your eyes. Blue is very hard on your eyes and if they crossed into any whiter it would throw a blue hue and, blue hue and night vision don't mix well.

I know that. I just prefer the blue tinted LED. I have put them in all my vehicles and enjoy the look. I've never liked soft white or warm colored bulbs.

Hi, Maybe we can help each other. I have a 2016 Edge Titanium 2.0 awd. I agree with your opinion on the factory HID headlights. I ordered and received two HID 6000k light output bulbs ordered from Daytime Brightlites.They charged me 52.00 plus shipping and handling. I chose to remove the whole light housing which is VERY easy to remove. There are only three screws to remove and the housing lifts up with a little wiggling and it's out. I forgot to mention that the replacement bulbs have a electronic module as a unit. Maybe it's a ballast I'm not sure but it's identical to O.E.M looking. I read the manual as to how to remove the bulbs. they said to to turn the bulb unit counter clockwise and pull out. This does not work. You can feel the unit move very little. I tried pushing in while turning and then using pliers grabbing the module gently with no luck. I didn't want to apply any more pressure in fear of damage. After studying the unit closely I could see a thin metal cage that is between the bulb and the module that comes up about three eight of an inch as finger tabs. Two sides of the square module has four finger tabs,the third side has one finger tab and the forth side has two tabs. One on each side of the plug that powers the module- bulb. I'm thinking maybe i have to bend down those metal fingers so the bulb- module will turn and lift out.. I'm afraid to try this because the metal finger tabs may not bend back or break-off. This may become a warranty problem in the future if warranty on anything is needed. the vehicle only has sixteen hundred miles on it. I really would like to but these bulbs in. They are clearly marked on the module and D.O.t approved. I traded in a 2015 Explorer with factory H.I.D lighting and miss the light it had. Hope you have some ideas. zippymancan

You don't twist the bulb. There are two tabs you twist counter clockwise. Then the bulb can be pulled out.

The wiring clip is the annoying part. Use a wide flat screwdriver or panel removal tool and slowly wiggle it to separate it from the bulb. I used too thin/small screw driver and broke the metal piece. The connector is still fine but man what a pain.

Picked up 9/22/16

Fully loaded except for rear DVD headrests

Mods not shown are weathertech front/rear/trunk mats

LED License plate bulbs

On order are Morimoto 6k D3S bulbs

Debating on Unleashed or LMS tune

Oil change this weekend. Just hit 1000 miles.

First brought home:

De-badged the hatch

Installed DayTimeBrightLight Puddle LED's

Puppy enjoying the new car smell.

10% Front / 35% rear (so it matches) tint

Inside:

Sunroof is tinted with an additional 35% too

Any pics of the tail light covers? On Lamin-X's site it specifically states that the center section is not covered.

Oh - and did you remove the headlights to swap out the D3S bulbs?

So I've always wanted a vehicle with HID's. My '16 Edge Sport is the first. However, I'm not that impressed with the light output.

First off the color is just yuck. I see all sorts of vehicles with OEM HID's where the color is a nice bright white with a hint of blue. Very nice looking. The Edge's lights just look like standard halogens but a bit brighter.

Then there's the actual quality of the light. It's just not there. I'm not sure what the lumen output is but I'm reading that they are 35w ballasts and 4300k color. Since the Edge is not offered with fogs, the light output is really pretty sad. I'm guessing around the low 3k lumen.

Now previously I have gone aftermarket for HID/LED headlights with proper projectors, etc and I've had great luck with getting a proper cut off and quality of light actually illuminating the road ahead especially in rainy conditions.

So the Edge's HID's use D3S bulbs. Doing some looking, Osram and Philips offer upgrades at about $200+/pair. However, I'm not sure the output is anything better. Color is noted at being roughly 6k so more blue but not so blueish to greatly reduce visibility.

What I'd really like is to find an OEM replacement ballast in the 55w range along with new D3S bulbs in the 6k color range. So far no luck in replacing the ballast but I did find that theretrofitsource.com does offer morimoto D3s bulbs for $70/pair. Now compared to other bulb prices this is cheap, but morimoto is a quality product with performance similar to the Osram and Philips at more than double the price.

I've ordered a set and hope to have them installed next week. I'll take comparison shots and driving impressions. The factory D3s bulb appears to be accessible without removing the headlight housing but I'm pretty sure the housing can be removed without removing the bumper which may be preferred.

On another note, what is up with Ford's version of interior LED's and backup lights. They are also a dull white color that is simply not pleasing to the eye. I'm reaching out to theretrofitsource.com regarding replacing these with proper LED's that actually look like LED's. I'm just not certain if the interior lights are replaceable without heavy modification or even available for purchase.

Here's a link for the bulbs:

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/components/bulbs/aftermarket/d3s-morimoto-xb-hid.html

Looks like those are the two options available. I've seen a lot of folks run the LMS tune. Unleashed uses the SCT tuner with their tune.

Anyone have experience with either/both?