Ericalan350

As I do understand, I have had personal experience with one of my vehicles upgrading to slotted rotor (w/ ceramic pads) and stopping power enhanced over a stock set up. From the research I've done so far, the slotted and drilled rotors seem to add both value and enhanced braking over what stock provides. You get what you pay for which goes without saying. Upgrading to a larger brake set up (caliper, rotor, pads, etc) would run over the thousand(s) dollar range, which, once again, my budget is around $300 dollars. I am wanting to get the most for the dollar amount, hence the reason for posting the question to gather more information to make the best decision possible for my vehicle and budget. Thank everyone for their input.

Rockauto has two manufacturers that offer rotors for my truck. Power Stop AR818231377 @ 46.79 per (rear) Raybestos 680686 @ 63.79 per (rear) Power Stop Z231377 ceramic pads @ 41.99 set (rear) Anyone know (besides the obvious) the difference between these two? Quality? Stopping power?

Did you find that your stopping power was better than factory? I have a 98 Chevrolet 1500 that I added "power slotted" (the manufacturer at the time) rotors and after the break in process found that they did perform better than stock. @CTFordfan, is this the kit you are referring to? Power Stop K5452 @ 342.79 + shipping

With using the factory enclosure?

I have a couple general questions that before getting scolded, I have seen some posts regarding these questions but I am just trying to get clarification. I have a 2013 Sport and need to replace my rear rotors & pads. I am getting some feedback (vibration) when applying the brakes (seat) which leads me to believe it is the rotors. Would you go slotted and drilled, just slotted? I would like to have better stopping power with about a $300 (or less) budget in mind to do all four (pads, rotors, etc). I have read some guys finding deals on both front and rear sets, and a lot of conversation between factory replacement / slotted / drilled & slotted. Again, I would like to increase the stopping power from what stock/factory offers. Sub woofer - Has anyone tried to 1) bridge the factory amp for more power to the factory sub? 2) add an aftermarket amp to the factory sub? 3) replace the factory 8" sub while using the plastic enclosure and adding an aftermarket amp? I would like to have more sound low end (bass) while still having everything hidden (not slang for "hittin") and not spending $700 for the JL Audio 10" box that takes the place of the factory 8". Thanks in advance for any helpful thoughts, advise, or personal experience (both good and bad), that ya'll can toss my way to help me out!

@1004ron Did you find that the re-circulation was the cause of the "damp" smell?

Update. I checked the drain tube from the a/c. I used compressed air to blow out the tube. I saw nothing that would lead me to believe the tube was clogged or an issue. The carpet or sound deading insulation was not damp around the tube at all either. The cabin filter does need to be replaced. However, The smell is not coming from the A/C vents. The smell is most noticeable or strongest when the vehicle has been sitting. I have scanned over the vehicle trying to pin point where its coming from but I have not been successful as of yet.

Out of curiosity is it worth spending the money on a K&N cabin filter? Or is the Motorcraft the way to go?

I will check that today. Thanks!

Hey folks, I recently had my 2013 sport serviced at the dealer (hvac issue). It has been about two weeks and I am noticing a stale or mildew smell. I cannot pinpoint where it is coming from, but I rarely drive the vehicle and baby this thing. I do not eat in the car and I routinely clean it inside and out. I have some leather sented wafers that I put use and smell GREAT but they are no match for this smell. I have 41K on the truck (second owner) and have not replaced the cabin air filter. Any ideas?

Ok, I hope this doesn't get me kicked off the forum, but I saw this lighting strip that appears to be a border line interesting idea. I stuck a link to a youtube video for anyone else to check it out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCwUl0S03RA or Anyone out there purchased this and had luck? Is it worth it? Is there one company that it better than another to purchase from? Pictures or videos would be appreciated!

I am having heat blowing out of the driver side (vents & floor) and cold air from the passenger side vents (both front and floor vents) however the a/c is on "LO" and the "DUAL" mode is off. Anyone else have this issue and know how to fix it? Its a 2013 sport with 39K. Any help will be appreciated.

@WWWPerfA_ZN0W - any recommendations between the K&N or the Green filter?

Folks I am looking to replace my OEM air filter and have always gone with a K&N drop in. I have looked at the "Green" filters as well "dry" filters that are out there. Does anyone have any experience with either being good or bad? I had a Volant CAI on a GMC that I had and LOVED it. They do not make anything for the Edge as of yet. It's a 2013 Sport FWD that all I am really interested in is more air flow, reliability, and possibly a little more "growl" when I stomp on it (I am aware of the air box delete). Any help is appreciated.

@Friegorgeous - What size and where did you mount the tank? would you mind posting some pictures of the install?

I did not know that I had the option to disable the "auto" sensor to conventional INT wipers. @TheWizard, yes, with the fog, mist, or light rain is when the INT setting would be very helpful. Thanks to all for the comments.

I honestly am not sure if they are auto or not...(man that's sad). I believe they are the "auto" wipers because they do not have a delay like other vehicles I own operate. I posted this question due to the last time that it rained, I tested the theory that if I switched the wipers to the highest INT setting, it seemed that the delay was longer than what I would expect. 15 to 30 seconds of a delay make a pretty big difference when your talking about driving in the rain... (I know, I know, if its raining that bad, turn your wipers on high). It doesn't rain all the time however, when its lightly raining, I figured the INT would work similar to other vehicles that I have owned (auto sensor equipped). I had the dealer replace the mirror when I first purchased the truck (October 2016). The OEM mirror was put back in. If the INT is set to the highest setting, shouldn't (in theory) the wipers clear the window faster if the rain is hitting the window at a fairly consistent rate?

I'm curious, on my 2013 sport, if I set my wipers to "INT" (intermittent), it seems as if they rarely work. My "low" & "high" settings work with no problems as well as pressing down on the wiper control. I was under the impression that the intermittent setting(s) would cause the wipers to go off every so often. Does anyone else have this problem?

Do you still have the box?

I had a rental 2016 Ford F150 that I synced my Iphone with and when I would park and walk away, I would get a notification of where I parked the truck. The notification came through the gps maps in the Iphone, not through the google maps app. How do I install this in my 2013 Edge? I have had my Edge for 3 months and have not done an update nor do I know how to go about updating the sync system. Anyone know how to have your vehicle send a signal to your phone letting you know where you parked? Thank you in advance for the help!

I have a rattle in my rear view mirror. The base where the mirror attaches to the windshield is secure. The mirror it self (where you adjust by hand) rattles. Is there a fix to this? I got the 2013 Edge (sport) used so I don't have any back ground information about the vehicle. I'm guessing the windshield has been replaced prior. Any help would greatly be appreciated!!